Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Possible To Upgrade Heater Controls To Digital?
Mar 4, 2012
I have a 2000 Limited Ex and was wondering can upgrade the heater controls to the digital controls. What would have to be done to accomplish this task?
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The overhead council temp/compass/ mpg on my 2000 xlt stopped working, who has fixed this already?
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When i turn my heater on, the ac come on instead. It does not matter what position any of the dials are on as soon as I turn the blower on the ac comes on. I do not see anything obviously wrong with the controls. All turn as they should nothing is striped. I have the 3 dial control setup no auto heater controls at all. and nothing is digital.
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So I have a 2000 6.8l V10 that I recently swapped the engine on (reman). While I was doing that, I decide to do some LED upgrades. I swapped out the turn signals, side marker lights, and headlights with LEDs. I added some LED fog lights, and I have a Rigid light bar.
I replaced pretty much everything on attached to the engine aside from the alternator (it didn't give me any problems, so I figured it was good).
When the truck is running with the lights off, there are 6 LED strips running as DRLs, when the lights are switched on, the side marker, turn signal and headlights turn on. When I switch to high beams, my fogs turn on. The light bar is on its own switch.
During the day with the headlights off, I dont notice the battery/charging system indicator light turn on at all. At night, when I flip the headlights on, I've noticed that it sporadically and randomly flash. The flashing indicator light does not appear to be associated with bumps or anything.
It does not seem to matter if I have just the DRL/low beams on, DRL/high beams+fogs, or DRL/high beams+fogs + light bar on. The indicator light comes and goes with the same random consistency regardless of how much power I am sucking from the alternator/battery. The RPM's of the engine also appear to have no effect on when/how often the indicator light comes on...
I drove for over an hour last night, and the voltage gauge never changed, so the battery does not *seem* to be draining (~1 year old Optima yellow). I added an extra ground wire going from the battery to the engine about a year ago (long before this LED upgrade) to ensure a good ground, so I dont *think* the wires are the issue. Is my alternator suddenly going bad? Any higher output ones I could replace it with? Is it a simple fix that does not require a new alternator?
Here are some pics of the lights:
(This was before the fog light install)
These lights only come on when the truck is in reverse:
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What all would be involved in swapping from regular ac controls to automatic climate control like the lariats have on a 2015 xlt superduty?
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I need to back flush the heater core in my 2000 EX with a 6.8. Looking at the outlet hose I don't see anywhere to separate it, do I need to cut the rubber section and put a flushing "T" in it ?
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The water level is up, the heater hose is hot on both sides of the heater hose bypass valve, the MtrCrft thermo is pretty new, but it blows cool air out the vents even after a half hour of driving. It was working great last week and then nothing. I guess you can see the blend door moving if you pop the glove box out?..........haven't tried that.
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Truck has recently developed a weird overheat issue. Ill try to give a s much background as possible:
I changed the heater core in the winter and that definitely cured the lack of interior heat issue the truck had since I got it. Blows hard and hot now. (I suspect I should also swap out the rear one too)
On occasional since then I have noticed the odd time a "gurgling sound" in the heater core area. Its not all the time but here and there.
Within the last 3 weeks or so I have gotten a check engine light. I've been a bit too busy to address it, and don't tend to drive very far (work and back) but have downloaded the comp and have a P0174 and P1299. Now just in the last 5 days I have noticed the temp gauge , which is normally firmly parked at about 1/3 in the zone has moved up to nearly the hot area. I can easily bring it back down by using full heat. I have cleared the codes and they haven't returned yet, but I'm suspicious of them non the less.
What can cause lean on only one bank? I have looked at the usual suspects and don't see any obvious leaks. Is it very common to have a intake gasket leak? what's the easiest way to check for that?
My rad appears in good shape although the AC condenser is pretty beat up. I'm definitely going to flush out the coolant, it looks good and used.
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I need more stopping power. Is there a front caliper setup that you guys are using to get better brake performance? Either a direct bolt-in swap from a heavier vehicle (F350??) or a completely new aftermarket setup??
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So my radio occasionally when playing CD's will throw a "CD ERROR" on it's little digital screen. What happens is I will play a CD it will be playing fine, and not every time but sometimes the next CD I put in won't play and I get the error. Oh and when I eject CD's they are quite hot. Not burn your fingers hot, but hotter than from any other player I have had.
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As I do my 2005+ headlight upgrade, I also want to do an electrical upgrade to make the headlights brighter.
I want to put relays in, instead of pumping all the current through the headlight switch and high beam switches.
Low beams separate in the engine bay fuse panel to feed separate 10 amp fuses. High beams separate at a splice point in the main harness.
I had planned on running 12 AWG wire, which I know is WAY overkill as it normally supports over 20 amps. I'd like to reuse as much of the factory wiring if I can so that I don't have abandoned wires floating around. What gauge wires Ford used for the Low Beam and High Beam feeds to the headlight connectors? I feel that 14 gauge should be fine.
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My 1968 F250 blows hot air with all controls set to off. The truck is fairly new to me and I'm a complete newb with a wrench....or screwdriver.....I think this should be a fairly easy fix? Aside from that it does work well.....it just doesn't shut all the way off.
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Started Ex yesterday morn for a couple minutes then all of a sudden radio went dead along with fuel gauge and digital odometer. I shut down then re-fired and all worked again.
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To kick off the coldest week (so far) of the winter season, I noticed a problem with the heater controls in my 06 Explorer with manual temp. controls. No matter which fan settings I select (defrost, panel+floor, etc), air does not blow through some of the vents. I can hear the fan working and air flows through the defrost vents and through the floor vents, but the there is no airflow through the vents below radio and round vents on the far left and far right sides of the dashboard.
Perhaps related to this problem, a couple months ago I replaced the blower motor resistor because fan speeds 1 and 2 did not work, only 3 and 4 worked, so whenever I would turn on the heat or A/C, it was on full blast all the time. After replacing the resistor, the issue was resolved and all of the speeds worked well. I guess I just never realized the issue with the vents, or maybe the problem happened because I replaced the resistor?
Since I'm not too knowledgeable with the climate control circuit, I'm not too sure where to begin, perhaps the switch or blower motor?
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I have a 2000 F-150 and my lights to my gauges and heater controls quit working. I checked all the fuses inside and under the hood. All good. I swapped a few relays around and no luck. I tried replacing the headlight switch and that did not work. I checked power to the gauges from the headlight switch and there is no power, I then ran a hot wire to the wire that powers the gauge lamps and they do light up, so it is not a bulb issue. I assume I am not getting power, but do not know where else to look?
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No matter where I put the selector it blows out the floor, the defrosters and the air cond vents, which I have to keep closed. It doesn't switch the air flow anymore. What gives?
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Coming home from work tonight, Radio turned down, Air off/Heat off. Whats the sound coming from the dash around the radio/heater controls/ vents? Can't really explain the noise, but its like a boiling/clicking/scratching noise.
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My truck at idle sounds like it has aftermarket cams and the exhaust coming out of the tail pipe smells really rich. when driving down the road my heater controls default to defrost. Also when I fill up with gas it takes forever to get it to fill all the way. I am lost on where to begin with the problem [ I did check the tank vent hose and their is no blockage] Possible vacuum issue?
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We have a 2010 Prius, and I can't remember if AUTO just works on AC. or is suppose to work for controlling heat also. (Doesn't seem to) Nothing in book, and search turns up nothing.
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On my 2004 Accent GL 1.3, the digital clock in the center facia panel seems to always reset itself. At first, I thought it was random, but now I notice that when it does cut out, I have just started to press the brake pedal. It doesn't cut out every time I brake, but it only cuts out when I brake. It comes back at its leisure, sometimes immediately after releasing the brake pedal, and other times much later, seemingly randomly.
The wire harness going into the digital clock has 4 contacts (2 of which have two wires each). I can find no mention of this wire harness in the Body Electrical manual on hmaservice.com, so I'm not sure where the wires come from. The wire harness itself looks fine.
I would imagine that the problem is caused by a short between the +12V (actually, I'm not sure how many volts) wire going to the digital clock and the braking circuit somewhere, but I don't know.
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My parents have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix. The blower that controls the a/c and the heater does not work consistently. It just works when "the spirit moves it." I took it to a mechanic today. They didn't even look at the car. They just went by my description of the "symptoms" of the car. According to the place I went, it needs the whole nine yards (naturally). How could they tell what was wrong without examining the car?!
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