Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Oil Light On / Pressure Drops - Motor Won't Even Turn / Just Clicks
Jun 3, 2012
2000 Ex 5.4 v8
Had 2 coils go bad last week. Got them replaced. Today I am on the turnpike doing 70 and my oil light comes on and oil pressure drops all the way. No engine noises and temp is OK so I coast to the next exit. Get off and go to the gas station in the corner. Turn the truck off...
Wait a few minutes, when I go turn it back on it wont start. The motor wont even turn. It just clicks.
I notice smoke coming from the wire that goes from the starter relay to the starter so my brother comes and gets me and we go to the nearest auto part store and buy a new relay.
Replace it and try to start it, same thing. Just clicks and smoke. My brother gets under the truck and taps the starter as I try to start it, no go. I am fearing the engine locked up. But no engine noises, clicks or clacks or anything. Battery is fine as well. Any thoughts on what else I can try?
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when i use the squirter for the water on the windscreen i get full pressure for a second then it drops to barely any pressure at all. I thought it was the jets so i checked them with a drawing pin and they flow fine. Are there 2 motors that operate the squirter , is it likely one has gone?
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I have a 2000 Chevy S10 (4-cylinder, rear wheel drive, the most basic model). A few months ago, the truck wouldn't start. The starter clicked a single time when I turned the key, and the lights on the radio came on, but nothing else happened. Several hours later, I attempted to start the truck again, and it started just fine. I disconnected the battery and found some corrosion on the positive connection (not that bad), and I assumed it was because of a bad connection.
I cleaned it and haven't had any problems since....until last night. The truck once again wouldn't start at a gas station. One click from the starter but nothing else happened. I cleaned out the battery connection again, and the positive terminal was again slightly corroded, but it wasn't that bad. The truck started after I cleaned out the connection and it got me home, but wouldn't start again after I shut it off. Can a bad battery cause repeated corrosion or possibly be the problem? I'm hoping it's just the battery, but I don't want to get a new one until I'm sure...
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My 2000 B5 1.8t began getting the Low Oil Pressure warning light over the winter, and has gotten progressively worse. I added a mechanical oil pressure gauge and I'm seeing about 20 psi on a cold engine at idle. If I rev to ~2500 the pressure DROPS to between 5 and 10 (and triggers the STOP! light).
I tried a bottle of autoRX, but probably too late- I could only run about 200 miles before the STOP! light wouldn't allow me to get out of the driveway.
What might cause the pressure to DROP as engine speed increases? a Clogged screen or worn pump possibly? It would be nice if it was something I could correct without pulling the engine (but I'm not expecting that).
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I have a 2013 F550, v10. At idle, the oil pressure gauge drops and the red oil light comes on. If I hit the gas, the gauge pops back up. I swapped out the oil pressure switch. That didn't fix the problem.
I thought maybe the gauge was faulty, so I bought a 2 inch mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked that up, leaving the factory gauge disconnected.
I watched the oil pressure start around 50 psi cold, and it slowly fell to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. The truck has 65k miles on it. There is no knocking, no ticking, no loss of performance.
I cannot imagine that at 65k miles, that it would be a worn engine. Right??
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I am a proud new owner of a 2000 X 6.8l 2wd with the 4.3 rear end .
I have had the truck for 2 weeks now . When I bought her , she ran a little rough but I expected as much after sitting for 6 months ... After driving her home I began to start a massive tune up , because she was acting like there was a miss ... The miss only started after she was at normal operating temp and at first only when at cruising speeds in overdrive on the freeway , it progressively got worse ... The miss became all the time once up to normal operating temp but will do it wether she is in any gear or even park .... Oh and the miss is NEVER at the same time it is always completely random ...
I have changed all 10 coils , all 10 plugs , the PVC valve , and I am changing the fuel filter this afternoon ... Other then that I think I can hear a vacuum leak , but I have tried spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine bay as instructed by a " ford expert " at the local auto parts store and I did not notice any change ... After I install the new fuel filter I am going to fill her full of 93 octane and add a bottle or 2 for Lucas octane boost as well as the Lucas injector cleaner ...
Other then these things I am at a complete loss ! This is my first v10 ford so I am a little at a loss ... Now if this was my wife's BMW 760 or my Lexus IS 300 I would not be having this problem.
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It started with the blower motor that wouldn't turn off by itself when the truck was turned off. I forgot to turn the fan off one night and woke up to a dead battery. Got my dad to come give me a boost and it would turn but not start and the anti theft light in the dash was blinking fast.
Later in the day I got another boost and it started right up.
This was yesterday... after the last boost and startup I went and got a few things, stopped to get gas... started back up fine each time.
Last night I was greasing zerks and making sure everything in the front end was nice and tight when the abs module started clicking... and the anti theft started blinking and truck wouldn't start. Left it alone and went to bed.
This morning I boosted it and it started fine. Later in the day it wouldn't start again because of the anti theft. Gave it 5 minutes and it started. Stopped to get gas... wouldn't start (anti theft)... started after about 5 minutes.
On the way back home... it's been making this 5 beep, pause, 5 beeps, pause sequence so I pulled it into the garage and turned it off now the locks are locking/unlocking by themselves randomly, the beeping is on and off, anti theft light blinks for a few minutes then goes away only to come back...
I've been told to remove the fuse box under the hood and check to make sure all connections are clean... I've searched and seen possible solutions ranging from a dirty connection to needing a new GEM module and apparently sometimes just a low voltage situation will cause our trucks to act nuts...
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I just bought a 2014 Prius- Pkg. 2 car. I had an '06 & an '08 Prius and kept the tire pressure @ 44 Lb.s for maximum mileage. I always fill my tank to the top well after the pump clicks off.
1) The dlr. told me I will only get an accurate MPG by not filling the tank after the pump clicks off. He claims the computer doesn't read the extra 1-2 gallons and that is causing me to get about 35 MPG even though the trip meter says 50 MPG.
2) The dlr. told me not to run my tires @ 44 lbs. Said it is a safety issue. I've been doing 44 lbs. since 2006 with great mileage and no safety issues.
Am I wrong for filling my tank to the top? My Prius has just over 600 miles today.
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So i bought an excursion 3 or 4 days ago and yesterday I went to install a double din dvd receiver. As I was installing something shorted out and I blew the radio fuse. No big deal or so I thought. Got the radio in and replaced the fuse but then the X wouldn't start. Went through everything and found a 5 amp fuse and a 15 amp fuse blown as well. Turns out the 15 amp fuse is for starter motor or something. Well I replaced the fuses and they kept blowing. Unhooked the radio completely and still keep blowing and the X is still obviously not starting. Pulled every relay I could in hopes something would reset and nothing. Any clue what it could be at this point?
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I inherited a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee from my late father and it seems like whenever the temperature overnight drops below a certain level, in the morning the low tire pressure light pops on. I never encountered this problem with any other car I owned, is this something inherent to SUV's with all wheel drive?
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So I put in an MFA cluster a couple months ago and now all of a sudden the other day it started flashing STOP motor oil pressure low turn off car. It happened twice right in a row. I took the car to my local firestone changed the oil and pulled out. Five mins later it did it again. It only seams to go off when my rpms are really low in second or third gear. I'm guessing it's a bad sensor cause my oil level is fine.
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I have a 24v vr6 gti, stage 2 C2 motor sports tune, and when i turn the key to the on position a message pops up on the dash that says: STOP OIL PRESS. STOP MOTOR! What this means or why it happens?
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Ok. So. 2005 excursion v10 270k miles. Never ever had an issue starting. Today it was about 30 degrees in Detroit. Had to crank for about 4 seconds. Usually it turns over within one second of cranking. So I get to work and hook up a fuel pressure tester to it. Got to 35psi while running, upon shutting off it dropped to 0 within 30 seconds. I have no codes. And absolutely no drive ability issues. No gas smell. And I'm really hoping its just z fuel pump check valve cause then I can just prime it by doing key on key off then crank...also hoping not injector cause I won't be able to pull the injectors till Sunday snd I really don't wanna hydro lock my motor >.< best way to test injector/fuel pump valve? I like to fix issues as soon as they pop up. Wanna get my v10 to 400k.
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Today I started my 2000 Suburban on the coldest morning ever, -14 degrees actual temp. I went inside to let it warm up and about 15 min later I went out to go to work and the check oil pressure light was on and oil pressure read 0. Is this due to extreme cold and thick oil ? Or did something break on start up. I am going to wait until temps are up before I try it again as it was running awful. I am fearing that 15 min warm up may have hurt her.
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Periodically my X doesn't want to start. Doesn't even turn over or crank. The weird thing is, sometimes it acts like the battery is too weak and the radio will flash on or maybe I hear a fast kink-kink-kink sound. Other times, it's just dead, like it doesn't even have a battery in it. Eventually it works again and cranks like a charm. Starts right up.
The ground from the battery to the fender looks good. I noticed the ground from the frame to the body was gone, so I replaced that. Didn't change a thing. I'm reading all the things it COULD be and I'm getting frustrated. I hate electrical problems.
2000 V10 Excursion XLT, 180,000 miles
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Is there a way to turn off the fog light's on a 2000 xlt
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I just bought a 2005 Camry LE with a sunroof, but the motor doesn't work at all, not even any clicks. Can it be removed and replaced just by taking off the center plate with the switch and map lights? How does that piece come off so I can look, anyway? I tried to pull it off from the front of the vehicle, nearest the windshield, but I cracked two tabs...
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My trusty 2000 v10 has begun to give us starting troubles. The symptoms are:
1) Most times it does start normally and runs great.
2) When it won't start - Engine does not turn over
3) Interior lights and other electrics work, battery reads 13v
4) There is a click from the relay when the key is turned
5) Wires look good, no corrosion found in fuse/relay boxes
6) No indication of funny stuff via dash board lights
7) I do not have a code reader
My resolution the past two times has been to verify volts and connections, then wiggle all fuses and relays, wiggle the shifter in the car, then it started.
I have checked the basics and have become suspicious of sensors after running the Pinpoint Test A listed in another post by ~Christina. My forum research indicated that other people had problems with:
- transmission range sensor
- crankshaft sensor.
- cam sensor
So how does one go about finding the location of and testing these? Are there other sensors to investigate?
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I have a 2003 4.6l f150 164000 miles. While back oil pressure dropped to 0. Then chattering. Then up then down. I changed the oil and filter, then flushed the motor, then changed the oil and filter again. 1500 miles, no problems, no chatter. Then all of a sudden it happens again. Oil level good and clean. Oil pump?Pick up tube?
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I have a 2000 V10 X and am having some starting issues.
Drove her to the store and she was fine. Went to drive home and she started to start, but instantly died. Then after that she wouldn't start at all...does not turn over. Had her towed home (which was fun...front wheels of flatbed came off the ground a little while loading her lol) and I have replaced the starter and the battery...still the same thing.
Thinking maybe the starter solenoid on the fender. Looks like a previous owner has installed something and ran power lines to the starter solenoid. Not quite sure what it is.
Here are some pictures:
Solenoid:
Extra box:
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Put a new bulb in the right front turn signal, still doesn't work (parking light works though).
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