Ford Excursion :: 2000 - No Power To Switch?
Mar 9, 2015
Excursion is stuck in 4low. Both 4x4 and 4 low lights on dash. Have no power to switch though, have checked all fuses that I can find inside and under hood. Dealer diagnosed bad transfer case motor. Replaced and still nothing, I trying not to have to take back to them.
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Having problems with Ignition switch going to Acc. even with the key removed and the steering locked???
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ok first off my 4wd has no power at the switch. 2nd I have no dome lights or overhead console lights (but the lights in teh very back work) and the ac controls up top work. either of these common issues or just time to break out a test light and start checking wires?
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So, the power locks on my 2000 Excursion (with 205000 miles) always have electric/signal to them, and occasionally will make it go down or up (ie. lock the doors), but usually not. It seems like they are just too weak, or tired - that is, will go down/up a tiny bit. I don't even know what to ask...
Is there a fix that does not include replacing all the power lock mechanisms? Is there a way to... "oil" the mechanism?
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I have searched many threads and seem to be confused. I have a 2000 excursion and unsure of exact plugs. I currently have the paddle mirrors that are heated and powered, and want to get the tow mirrors with heat and power. They don't need to have signals or power telescoping or folding. As long as they can manually fold. What is a good reliable mirror that will fit what I need?
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My X has started shuttering in overdrive this morning. I have taking it out of overdrive and seems to go away , maybe a slight notice.....
It did shutter one time at about 2000 rpm while power braking.... but cant get it to do that every time.... possible coil...???
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My driver side on my 00 x works for the the front 2 windows but not the rear and no other door switch works the windows ...
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I have had the PSD about 2 months. It's a 2000 Ext cab LXT.
If you open the door, no lights. If the key is in the ignition and you open the door it buzzes. If you have the light on, the light around the door locks and window controls stay on after you turn off the truck until you open the door. The dome light never comes on unless you use the switch on the light. What's up with the darkness! This truck is like a cave! No under dash lights, no door lights no dome light! As for those red lenses on the door, no wiring, no lights no nada! Do the lights com on when you open the door? Any light?
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first thing i noticed was trying to start it the theft light was flashing fast but wasnt cranking. Heard a relay click a bunch of times when going on and off. I'v tried to testing fuses and relays all seem good. Battery is brand new and working. Nothing works, no lights, wont unlock from remote. moving soon and we need to get this thing running. 6.8 gas excursion....
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I have a 2000 EX 7.3L ... The power windows aren't working and neither is the interior lights. I am hoping it is a couple of fuses. Problem is that I can't find a fuse diagram and I don't have any knowledge about changing the fuses. Do I need to change them both under the hood and under the dash? Which fuses I need to look at changing?
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Truck is a 2000 7.3 PSD Exursion, 300k miles, automatic. Does this when cold, I let warm up for 5 minutes before this happened as its been doing it. Going to plug in tonight, was about 40-50 degrees out.
What is causing this shutter? Injectors? After I get off my dirt road to street it runs fine, also notice the ebpv. Seems to do shutter most when reversing.
Does this when cold, I let warm up for 5 minutes before this happened as its been doing it. Going to plug in tonight, was about 40-50 degrees out. What could be causing this? Injectors? After I get off my dirt road to street it runs fine, also notice the turbo waste gate? Seems to do it most when reversing.
[URL] ....
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EGR marbles -- the chunks of carbon that come loose from the EGR cooler / intake manifold and stick the EGR valve open?
I've been getting these on 3 recent occasions, maybe 100 miles or so apart. The truck loses pretty much all power below 2000 rpm, smokes and stinks bad until I pull the EGR valve and dump these out. I'm trying to decide if I need to dig in and do a new EGR cooler and oil cooler. I've read the FordDoctorsDTS article suggesting these are caused by and coming from a leaking EGR cooler (possibly only when very hot) over time.
I'm not currently losing any coolant that I can tell, but was losing some a few months ago (during warmer weather), but also had a leaky heater valve that I replaced at the time. Not sure if the leaky valve would account for the total coolant loss (I lost over a gallon in a few weeks).
Here's the additional details:
- 2004 Excursion with just over 109K miles
- Replaced faulty EGR valve (was sticking open) about 300 miles ago
- Replaced stock turbo with new powermax turbo 300 miles ago. Old was rusty and pitted with sticking unison ring.
- I just did a total coolant flush, oil cooler back-flush, Restore and Restore+ and added new coolant filter
- Replaced thermostat during coolant flush. ECT stays pretty close to 190 degress when warmed up.
- ECT/EOT delta is mostly between 15 to 18 degrees, sometimes slightly lower or higher. Not much change after the coolant flush, but may be slightly improved.
- I've been doing pretty regular wide open throttle tests during recent test drives with the new parts above (I'm thinking this may have broken some of this stuff loose).
Here's today's marbles. They're all dry and will crumble if crushed. They are dull gray on the inside - not metallic as they kind of look here............
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I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
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My ride 2000 excursion limited v-10 4.10 gears. Now here is the issue when I press the o/d button it kicks down right so far so good! Then i press it again and nothing it wont return to o/d that is unless i lift off the gas. The light turns on and off as it should it just won't reengage o/d with out me lifting?
Shifts fine any other time for example if i am climbing a hill and it kicks to 3rd upon cresting said hill it will shift back to overdrive as it should. It is hard to move the shifter and i have read about the switch on the tranny also read about the wires getting worn through in the column but, as the light goes on and of respectively i fear this is not the case.
My friend told me my trans is shot and it does have 200,000 miles but shifts fine as long as i dont touch the button. I am going to try to take the steering column apart soon and take a peak but it is -15 out right now and yeah that just gonna have to warm up a touch first! In the mean time i will keep reading trying to figure it out! Don't tell me my trans is shot
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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When in drive and cruising, I press the transmission control switch to turn off the O/D and do not get any 'OFF' illumination - what are the usual suspects?
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My radio will switch fm am cd player without touching anything. It will go back and forth between each source. Volume control is not working properly on my steering wheel but all the climate stuff does. What the issue could be?
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About 11pm 2 nights ago on our way to Florida, hit a nasty bump on I-95 in SC and there went the fuse to the tail lights and dash lights (#17 I believe). Obviously something shook loose from the jarring of that bump and blew the fuse. I've blown this fuse before, but I thought it was due to a cracked LR tail light assembly holding water, which was replaced last weekend.
Now I replace the fuse, and as soon as I hit the headlight switch...it blows again. Holding my breath running around FL at night until the man pulls me over for no tail lights. So far, here's what work has been done:
- Replaced entire LR tail light assembly with new one, new bulbs, new bulb plugs - Sprayed electrical cleaner all over harness plugs, and used electrical grease to hook it back up
- Sprayed electrical cleaner into both trailer plugs
- Did replace both batteries last weekend - noticed on the drivers side battery appears to be some relays next to the battery on the fenders - one appeared to be beat up probably due to prior battery replacements - no clue what they do
I am at a total loss. Worse fear is I can't figure this out and I have to turn it over to the dealership
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Visor won't switch on the vanity light when it's pulled down? Just wondering if it's a simple problem to fix.
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Just recently under heavy throttle my a/c will stop coming through dash and goes to defrost??
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I finally got around to trying to fix my inop cruise control. Did the self test and got a flash code 2, BPP switch. I replaced the switch but its still inop and still have flash code 2. Got my meter out and started checking system.
I found the fuse in the deactivation switch recall harness was bad. I removed the harness and plugged the two remaining connectors together and the cruise works. I returned home and unplugged so it wouldnt short out. The connectors are clean and no signs of fluid.
Says on jumper harness that the fuse isnt serviceable and to replace with 9F924 harness. Well the fuse is serviceable and the harness ohms out good. Is there a need to buy a new harness or would I be ok with a new 5 amp fuse?
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