Ford Excursion :: 2000 - No Brakes - Dash Light On
Jul 29, 2015
I have a 2000 7.3 with about 114,000 miles. I just had my water pump, thermostat and belt replaced about a week ago. I've been driving the truck since and everything feels normal. This morning I drove the truck to work and parked it for about 10 hours. Got in it after work and everything started up fine. I noticed the brake light on the dash was lit up which I thought was odd because I never use the E brake. E brake wasn't on and I stepped on the brake pedal and it felt like I had no brakes. I turned the truck off and didn't try driving it, I didn't want to risk anything if I didn't have brakes.
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My 2000 excursion (94K) front end shimmies when I put on the brakes...could my rotors be warped...or is there something worn in the front end?
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I have a 2000 Ex V10 4x4 that I use as a daily driver and also haul with it(4 horse trailer loaded). The brakes are not cutting it, they suck. The rotors have been turned 3x in a year and it is due for pads and I am sure rotors now.
I want to upgrade so that I don't continue to keep having this amount of problems. Sadly the beast gets abused with 3 teen drivers at the moment, so I am pretty sure that is contributing to the eating of brakes.
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Have a 2000 excursion V10. Cruise wasn't working when I bought it. There are no lights on the dash that come on and I changed the switch on master cylinder. What to do. Fuses are good
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I was told that their is an AC control module in the dash. As I have a 2000 that we are still getting parts, where in the dash this control module is?
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Had this rig for 6 years, and I love it. Two weeks ago, wife was driving home and she and the kids saw smoke coming out of the dash, along with an electrical stink. Shortly after, she noticed the blinkers not working. While trying to diagnose, I have found that the radio, heated seats, headlights, rear AC, blinkers, front wipers, rear/mirror defrost do not work. On a test drive, the rig also has an odd idle, as if it is going to die, then catches up by revving... repeatedly. Sometimes throttle is unresponsive.
I started by replacing the battery. I cut back battery cables til there was no corrosion and reattached them. All fuses in the cabin and under the hood look good, and none of the relays (yes, I pulled them all) seem to have any damage, melting, etc. My battery to engine and frame grounds are good. I also tried spraying starter fluid around vacuum lines to see if that changed the idle -nope. The only code on the rig has been on for a couple months, both right and left banks lean.
I am not great at tracing down wiring, but I am starting on grounds, then will start on hots.
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2000 Excursion V10 4x4. I'm getting a popping noise coming from the rear end when I apply the brakes and come to a complete stop and when I release the brakes to take off. It only happens the moment it comes to a complete stop and the moment it takes off. Not when I'm putting it in forward or reverse or accelerating or decelerating. U joints are fine. I was laying under the truck poking around the other day and when I roll it back and forth in park the few inches it'll go, when it comes to the end of it's travel the axle wraps a little and it seems like the transfer case output shaft flange is moving in and out of the transfer case and causing the noise. I'm assuming there is a snap ring holding the output bearing in place. I didn't have time to drop the driveshaft but am planning on it this weekend to see if it still does it when I roll it and to inspect the transfer case. I need to check to make sure the driveshaft splines are not seized up but they seem to have a little free play to them.
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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I have checked the brake fluid and recycled the emergency brake pedal and the red light in the instrument cluster won't go out. Is it possible that the problem make be the contact switch right above the emergency brake pedal? I have pushed on the switch and the light doesn't go out?
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red dash light comes on after 1 km, most times. dealer says abs module but no abs light or codes
brakes are fine
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The "Door Ajar" light on my Ex has apparently decided that I would enjoy having the little red light on the dash illuminated. Normally, I'd consider this just a nuisance, but it's convinced the interior and running board lights to play along so that they don't go out until they time out. I'm pretty sure that it's in the rear door somewhere. Where the sensor(s) are for the rear doors and how to test them?
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My 2002 X won't shift into 4wd. The dash light comes on, but only my rear wheels are engaging. Trying for a half hour, I intermittently was able to get it into 4LO without the front wheels engaging still, but it took me a long time to get it out of LO. While in neutral, I would switch the dash selector out of 4LO into 4HI and it wouldn't switch. Id move the truck a few feet forward and then back and try again and finally got it out of 4 LO, but it went back to just the rears, even with the 4x4 HI dash light on. I replaced the ESOF hubs with warn hubs a few months ago, so the ESOF aren't the problem. The only thing I didn't do when I swapped out the ESOF was plug the vacuum lines, would that affect manual hubs? I am visiting relatives in eastern WA and it has snowed 5 inches in the past few hours. I need to make it 180 miles home tomorrow.
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I started to feel the brakes get spongy. So I pulled the master cylinder forward and turned the 7mm about a half turn. Also noticed the brake fluid level low. I topped it off. Drove down a steep hill....red dash brake light comes on.....plow truck stopped at the base of hill with on coming car. Used emergency brake.
The down side is that I don't have a dry area to pump and check where the leak is. The up side is I have a 2nd car to drive (yaris).....the truck only has 45k miles on it. Where is that area that is prone to leakage on these trucks....... 2004 heritage 4.2 v6 with stick shift.... only 45k miles ....
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2002 Excursion Limited V10, 96k miles...
History - 3 of 4 calipers have been replaced, to include the caliper on the suspect wheel, along with new brake lines. On occasion, while driving, i can smell the brakes. It emanates from the right rear wheel. I'm reluctant to think it's the caliper. At this point I'm thinking the him needs replaced. Any reason for this too is, on occasion the ABS light will flicker on.
I'm uncertain as to the cause of this because of it's intermittent nature - both the brake smell and the ABS light. When the ABS light comes on, it only flickers on, but when it goes out, the speedometer will drop to zero and come right back up. The truck has an electrical ghost, I know. For that matter, the door ajar light is always on, and the codes say it's all four door sensors - it's not the sensors, and it's not the GEM.
More importantly, though, I need to figure out the issue in the right rear wheel.
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I own a 2002 excursion and my dash light for door ajar stays on, I pulled all of the contacts off the rear doors and hatch and found that there are no electric hook up to what I thought would be the contacts i needed to be looking at. So what relays the signal to my dash that the doors are in fact closed?
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My cruise light will activate but won't hold speed, it shuts off when I tap the brakes. I did the self test and it went through complete. All buttons worked. After the test it did not show any blinks which according to the chart shows speed control switch faulty, I replaced the switch and does the exact same thing. The recall was also done.
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Ok, I have a strange no start issue right now. My excursion won't start. I have power to everything and both batteries are at 12 volts or a bit more but the starter won't engage. If you turn the key to start all that happens is relays click under the dash and the airbag light flashes. It almost seems like the transmission is in gear. It did this twice about a month ago and has been fine ever since until today.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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Why the O/D off light on the dash is flashing??? Whats it mean? Its a 2000 ford explorer...4.0 V-6
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2000 EX 6.8 4wd, my oil light and low fuel light will come on together for about 1 second then go off, oil is good and fuel was at 1/2 tank.
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I have a 2000 with the v10 4x4 with 130,000 miles problem started one day when putting on brakes the peddle felt like it pulsated a little like the abs had activated, then a couple of minutes later the light came on. Did not do again and the light went off, started doing it on and off every so often same thing. Took to private machenic he checked all the brakes and found the pins froze up on one in the back and one in the front. Took home did it again, took back he ran codes and found the vss coded changed it did it again before I got home.
Took back drove mechenic around with scanner hooked up did it again and showed code for vss. Got on here did search and could not find anything that really matched what I have happening. Seen several threads about the cops causing this but when it happens to me I dont lose my speedo or gauges only the abs light comes on and then after a while goes off. Now the light is coming on sometimes without hitting the brakes. The only other thing the mechenic said when we drove around was that the front wheel sensors one was reading a couple of mph faster than the other one untill you hit 20mph than they both read the same. going back to shop Wednesday but we dont have a clue where to go next.
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