Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Level 2WD With 285/75 16 Tires - Front Springs?
Jan 13, 2016
I recently purchased a 2000 Ex Limited 2wd. It is stone stock except a slight lift. This lift gives it a pretty significant rake that I'm not a fan of. I'd like to get this thing leveled out without spending a fortune and I believe that would require the knowledge of the FTE.
The pictures below show the rake and existing suspension mods. With 285/75 16 Tires there is about 6" clearance from tire to fender on the front and 9.5" in the rear. It has a 2" spacer under what I imagine is the stock front coil spring and a 4" block below what do not appear to be stock leaf springs (guessing because the anti wrap spring is not present).
I'd like to get the front end to sit about 3" higher than it currently is to better match the rear. Lifts of any type are foreign to me. What front springs (and other components) do I need (and what brands would you recommend based on hard earned experience) to make this thing work?
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I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
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Been chasing this for a few weeks and getting fed up. Have a bad metal on metal "creaking" noise from the front at low speeds.
Background - Replaced springs with X code front and modded C code rear from Junior at ATS. Also replaced shocks at the same time. All hardware tightened with weight on suspension. Have rechecked torque on ubolts many times, even loosened and retightened both ends of the shackles, sway bar links, shocks, etc.
Can't get the noise to go away. Hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from but you can "feel" the noise in the back half of the front springs.
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Trying to figure out if my front leafs are factory or not. I assume so but they look extremely weak for a 9k rig.
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As the title says are my front leaf springs bad? I got this truck 2 years ago and replaced all the ball joints, shocks, sway bar links,front hubs, rotors and brakes along with all the seals. I have a clunk in the front and I can't figure out what it's coming from. Could my leaf springs be clacking together? Truck
is a 2000 F250 SD v10.....
Driverside front
Rear spring
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" Michelin LTX A/T 2 Load range E tires that are size 265/75/16"
I don't haul much and I don't tow.
How much in the front tires and how much in the rear?
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Just put new tires on my excursion 4x4 powerstroke and I'm getting cupping just on the inside of both front tires it already has new ball joints and steering box tire rods are tight and all joints in the front. what else could cause it?
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Just bought a 2001 v10 ford excursion limited with 127xxx miles. I have a few questions.
1. I can't get the front tires to rotate while parked and stepping on the brakes. I thought it was caused by the 35 inch BFG goodrich all terrian tires and a lift kit i dont know how tall but apparently i'm just a sucker. From the searches i did, i think the problem is that either the power steering or brakes doesn't have sufficient pressure to power both at the same time. what is the fix to this?
2. I found metal shaving in the rear differential. For lack of picture, the best i can describe it is that it looks like shaving off an ice block. Also, the fluid is gray and consistency of sludge. I searched and some said the shaving is normal and others said fix now. Which is it? I assume that the rear differential fluid needs to be changed.
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my car is basically bone stock (2010 Corolla S). I'm looking at getting Eibach lowering springs fairly soon, and later on new tires/wheels. My question is what are the biggest wheels and tires I can get after I install these springs? Will 17" rims fit? Or does it depend on the tire as well?
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Here's a pic of rear springs off a 4X2 Ex.
They look the same to me with the exception of not having the bottom overload spring with the rubber snubber on it for the axle wrap.
I need a pair of stock rear springs so I can pull the bottom two leaves off in order to do a modded B-code, and these are available for me to use if they will work.
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE with 4-spd auto. Is it possible to rotate one side of the front tire while the car is jacked up? How about if it is in neutral with the parking brake on?
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I'm going to be installing a 4" lift on my truck and was wondering what the pros and cons are using springs or blocks. I have the option of going with either the pro comp 22210/22415 springs or 22210 with a 5" block. With the block I'd be saving around $200 but I guess my main concern is ride quality. Dont know if the stock rear springs have issues like the front do. I'm probably going to go all spring but it would be nice to save a few bucks.
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My Ex has a ProComp 6" lift that was installed in 2004 (it's an 03) and it seems that the rear springs are worn out and sagging. I'm assuming the lift used the stock springs and blocks. I haven't measured but I'd say the rear is 1" - 2"s lower in the back. Question is should I replace the springs with stock ones? Maybe get springs that'll give me some lift and remove the blocks? Airbag it?
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Since I bought this '05 Ex, I have had a driveline vibration. Not bad mind you... just barely noticeable when I let off the gas going 50+ mph. I had my local Ford dealer change the Ujoints and it worked a little.
I just installed Firestone Air Bags on the rear axle. I put 20 lbs. of pressure in them and it raised the rear exactly 1 inch (I measured before and after). After the air bags were in and pressurized and the rear lifted 1 inch, I took it for a drive. WOW! The driveline vibration is completely gone. Smooth as glass.
Question that I need opinions on from those who have more experience with an Ex than I do: Did my rear springs sag enough to cause a driveline vibration? And did the lifting of 1 inch put it BACK to stock height so that the driveline is now correct?
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Finally pulling the trigger on some springs so I can get this work done, Tousely prices were great on the W's compared to local dealers. Here are some questions.
1. I am planning to go with the W springs up front.
2. Can I still use the B for the rear mod, or do I need C's to keep it level? (Or F's)
3. Do I need blocks in the rear, or just the springs on the axle?
4. Do I need the 2" shackle up front?
5. I have dual Fox shocks that came with the ex when I bought it. The prior owner said they ran a little rough. Are they able to be re-valved, or is it cheaper to go with Bilstein?
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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I have the 2000 Ex. Tan leather seats. Two seats in the front. I need to add a third. I used to have a F150, that had a flip up/down center console. It was a seat when flipped up (the console became the seat back). What are my options with the Ex?
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I'm on my second blower motor and fourth blower motor resistor since purchasing my 2000 Ex approximately 3 months ago. The fan returns after replacing the resistor but ultimately, fails after 2-3 weeks. What can I test, what can I do? The weather is changing quickly here in NOVA and being without a reliable heater is a non-starter for the family vehicle.
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My 2000 Excusion V10 has original shocks and has no suspension mods. I am adding Rancho 9100 XL's soon as well as a swaybar to the rear. Is the clanking sound I am hearing over rough surfaces from the worn out shocks on front or something else like ball joints?
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I have a 2000 EX and my front A/C blower wet the bed yesterday. I have checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood. I removed the blower motor and supplied 12vdc directly to it. Works like a champ. I metered the harness connector with the ignition on and the fan speed switch at all speeds, I get a range of 8.1 to 8.9vdc. I metered the fuse terminals as well and get a steady 13.2vdc. Before I rip the dash apart, what is the most common to fail the Blower Resistor, Fan Speed Switch, or Blower Motor. Or, do I have a completely different issue?
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My wife's 2000 SCAB 4x4 has been rattling for a while now. I have been able to figure out that the culprit(s) are the metal bands on the leaf springs, which are somewhat loose and causing the rattle. I have squeezed them with a large c-clamp on a couple of occasions, which seems to have provided a temporary fix, but as soon as the suspension cycles fully they stretch out again, and begin making noise. How to tighten them permanently? Or is there a replacement/upgrade to fix it?
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