Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Leak At Fuel Filler Pipe
Feb 19, 2012
Just drove home a 2000 Limited from a used car dealer in NH to MA. Half way home, I stopped to gas up and noticed I was losing a small amount of fuel while pumping. It appears to be leaking from the filler pipe just before the tank, but there was too much splatter to tell for sure. No leak when not pumping, but the tank was only half full.
The dealer "guarantees" that the truck will pass MA state inspection. I'm sure a rusted out filler hose would result in a failure. The "guarantee" really means that he will buy the truck back should it fail, which is not really doing me any good b/c I'll have to start looking for a new truck all over again.
I'm unable to find a part # or pic of a filler neck for the Excursion. Is it the same as other Super Duty necks? Is this thing welded to the tank? That sounds like an involved, difficult fix.
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2003 Limited 6.8L v10 4WD. My oil filler pipe is cracked. Been cracked for quite a few years. Only recently did the smog shop fail the visual inspection because of it. Need to have it replaced. Auto store doesn't carry it, dealer-only item. Went to dealer and it is attached to the valve cover and sold as one piece. Any other options?
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I recently purchased a used 1999 F250 Super Duty with about 150k miles on it. The truck runs great and I have no complaints but there are a few things that need to be taken care of. It looks like there is a very small fuel leak where the filler neck ties into the rubber hose that runs into the fuel tank. There is a thin film of diesel along the side of the tank, on the leaf spring, the air bag and various other places. Nothing is dripping. I want to drop the tank and replace the hose. The Haynes manual says to depressurize the whole fuel system--is this really necessary if I don't plan on doing anything to the system aside from dropping the tank?
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After my accident this summer with the Ex and TT, I have a fuel leak. It appears to be coming from the hoses between the filler neck and tank.
The part # from Ford for the neck and hoses is YC3Z-9034-AA. This part is no longer available! Even NAPA the go to place and pay thru the nose for shows it as obsolete from their vendor.
I am seeing RED at this since I had zero leaks until the body shop dropped the tank to replace the hitch. The BS and INS co told me prove it was not a dry rotted house and they would pay for it. What to do for the hoses?
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My 2000 7.3 excursion has a diesel fuel leak. I don't now where to start looking to fix this. I hope it's not a hard line. I don't even see the leak and I don't know where to look a shop doing a safety inspection said I had a diesel fuel leak and fuel was collecting in the valley.
Where I should start looking. Is this an expensive fix? Is the common place to check that is easy to repair?
I average 16.5 miles per gallon. My fuel economy dropped about 1 1/2 years ago after my CPS was replaced due to recall. My truck is 2000 4x4 limited.
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I was changing the engine coolant on my 2005 Prius today. When I went to fill up the tanks, I noticed a small pool of coolant right under the filler pipe. I thought I might have overfilled something, but when I jiggled the filler pipe, I heard an air leak. It looks like there is a bad seal between the filler pipe and the radiator. I also noticed that my coolant recovery tank was empty. I never noticed this before so I don't know if this issue is related.
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I have a leak on the right side of the cross over pipe. I removed one long bolt from the right side and two long bolts from the left side that go through the thermostat housing, and three bolts from the back of the alternator, but the pipe doesn't seem to want to move. I don't want to break anything.
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The exhaust pipe connecting the cat and muffler is broken. However, the bolts connecting them are so rusted that look like one piece. Any tips on removing them off? I am afraid that PB blaster won't work in this case. I am thinking of drill them through, but afraid of damaging the cat.
BTW, my car's fuel tank has some leak. I can smell the gas. Is it safe to use a torch to remove freezing bolts?
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I have a power steering fluid leak. I believe (it appears to be) it is coming from what is described in the manual as the "power steering cooling pipe". It looks like it is right up front just behind the radiator on the cross member, and perhaps may have rusted through. All of the pipe is intact except one small corroded area.
I looked at the procedure in the manual to replace this and it looks rather complicated.
I figured I would just cut the leaky section out, and replace it with double hose clamps and a piece of fuel line.
My main question is: Is this in the return circuit (low pressure) or the supply circuit...High pressure.
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I have a 1986 F150 6 cyl, dual tanks, no AC, manual fuel pump. Just recently, I have been having issues with the tanks. At first it seemed like the back tank was siphoning from the front tank. Now I have fuel coming out of my front tank filler neck. When I open the back tank gas cap, there is enough pressure to spray me with gasoline. I am not familiar with the fuel delivery system of my truck ...
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I have a fuel elk coming from the fuel rail on top of an orange; what I can only assume is an injector? Fuel races out of it and puddles beneath the truck. I hate driving it cause now everything stinks like gas. I've tried pushing on it with no luck. How hard would it be to fix this issue? I'm mechanically inclined but feel this may be beyond my skills.
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The fuel filler neck on my truck is very rusted. I'm very concerned because if it gets a hole in it I think I wouldn't be able to put gas in the tank. It's completely exposed to anything that the tire throws at it. Is there any way to protect it?
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Well, I suppose my '09 is starting to show its years. Stopped to fuel the other day, opened the fuel filler door, and it wouldn't remain all the way open. Get done, try to close it, and it won't close all the way either. I'm wondering if there are springs in the arm and one has failed/fractured?
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My new/used 2000 4x4 excursion with 214000 miles on it has a transmission fluid leak.
It could be a rear portion of pan gasket but it seems to be coming out of the area where the transmission bolts to the extension housing.
I just put a transfer case in it. Thought all the fluid all over was due to exploded T case.
It seems the output shaft seal may be bad. I cannot seem to find an OEM part number for this seal.
What is part number for this seal, if one exists? Maybe the seal is in the extension housing and it's just the gasket between Trans and housing.
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The dang thing leaks from the fill plug, I been reading about using liquid teflon on it.
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2000 Excursion, Limited, 4X4, 6.8L, V10. My right front inner differential seal is leaking. I have researched and found out that I have to remove the pumpkin gear assembly from the front differential to get at the seal.
Do I need any special tools to get the seals seated back into the differential? Any instructions or a list of parts needed?
I went to fordparts.com and entered my vin number but it makes no reference to the parts of the front differential only the rear.
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From almost one month I am a proud owner of Vw Phaeton 3.2 V6 4 Motion BKL. The problem that I have is related with electronic unlocking of fuel filler lid. It does not open from the button on driver's door and I open it manually by pulling one red piece of rope.
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This is a 2000 EX with 146k miles on it bone stock. I have not done any of the regular maintenance on it yet or even gotten to really check this problem out. I am not driving it at this time mainly due to this problem.
The noise is heard the best at the rear of the engine and underneath the truck as the video shows. It seems to slightly change in sound (maybe a tad bit quieter) once I put it in gear (drive and reverse), I have not really heard a change in it after the truck has warmed up either. It does not sound at all really metallic to me..
[URL] ....
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I borrowed a friends 2000 Excursion with the Triton V10, along with his 3300lb, 28' trailer to tow a car from Ashland, OR to Reno, NV to begin a restoration project. His Excursion has 175,000 miles on it and made the trip down flawlessly, but as they say, "No good deed goes unpunished." When attempting to return last Sunday, had to turn around due to overheating problems. Analysis at a local automotive shop concluded a bad radiator cap. Attempted the return trip Tuesday and the same thing happened (only got farther due to the new cap and ability to hold pressure longer).
Finally got into a Ford dealer and have been informed that the truck has a bad head gasket causing pressure to leak into the cooling system. They suggest replacement of with a remanufactureded engine as opposed to replacing head gaskets, due to the time on the entire engine (who knows what else might be bad?). The vehicle can be driven around town for miles with no problems. But put that heavy load on it and grades and it spews out nearly "all" of the coolant.
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2000 excursion, 4X4, V10
A few days after the job was completed I noticed that the top stud on the driver's side closest to the firewall has signs of oil leaking from inside the hole. This is a hole that I had to drill and insert an 8mm Heli-coil. I was very careful on the depth of the hole I drilled. I tried removing the bolt and placing JB Weld high temperature epoxy into the hole and reinstalled the bolt. I waited over 24 hours for the epoxy to cure and then I checked for leaks. The leak re-appeared but has slowed down quite a bit. I have a USB endoscope that I will be using to inspect the inside of the hole to see if I can see where the leak is actually coming from. I am in no position to replace the head but I will do whatever it takes to get the truck back into service.
After 7 days in my garage, I finally removed/replaced all 20 manifold studs. I had to cut off all of the nuts to remove the manifolds. I was able to remove 17 out of 20 studs by using a 6 inch pipe wrench and a lot of coaxing. 3 of the studs were already snapped off inside the head. I drilled out two and was able to get them tapped for a Heli-coil. The third stud I broke a 1/8" cobalt drill bit inside and it took 4 days to get enough of the hole drilled out to get a Heli-coil inserted.
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2000 EX 6.8 4wd, my oil light and low fuel light will come on together for about 1 second then go off, oil is good and fuel was at 1/2 tank.
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