Ford Excursion :: 2000 - High Idle Intermittently?
Mar 29, 2017
I have a 2000 X V10 and am having an intermittent high idle condition. I have searched the forums and found some useful info but nothing that addresses this issue. Here's what I've done. New IAC, found PCV valve hose leaking-replaced also new valve, found another vacuum leak-repaired, tested TPS and that was fine according to the specs I found. So here's my problem-upon starting engine occasionally "stumbles" then roars to life idles 8-1100rpm. Drives well till stopping at an intersection and idles 1100-1200 rpm.(lots of brake) Can pull into parking spot place in park and will idle up 1500-1800 rpm and then only drop to 1200 or so. I have checked everything I know. ALL these idle conditions are INTERMITTENT. (and yes I did check for codes "0" ) There is no loss of power.
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I purchased a 2000 4X4 V10 with 63,000 miles. It sat with very little movement for 12 years or so. I have been driving it for a few months and it now has 73,000 on it.
To my question. I have an high idle after start up. After the engine starts the idle goes up to 2K but comes back down to normal(1K or so). It takes a second or to 2 for the idle to drop. This seems strange to me. Is this normal? I've done some searching and found plenty on high idles but none seem to fit this condition.
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I'm trying to find out what I need to check or replace to get my 2000 Excursion to idle at normal rpm's in park and neutral.
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I have a 2000 with the v10 4x4 with 130,000 miles problem started one day when putting on brakes the peddle felt like it pulsated a little like the abs had activated, then a couple of minutes later the light came on. Did not do again and the light went off, started doing it on and off every so often same thing. Took to private machenic he checked all the brakes and found the pins froze up on one in the back and one in the front. Took home did it again, took back he ran codes and found the vss coded changed it did it again before I got home.
Took back drove mechenic around with scanner hooked up did it again and showed code for vss. Got on here did search and could not find anything that really matched what I have happening. Seen several threads about the cops causing this but when it happens to me I dont lose my speedo or gauges only the abs light comes on and then after a while goes off. Now the light is coming on sometimes without hitting the brakes. The only other thing the mechenic said when we drove around was that the front wheel sensors one was reading a couple of mph faster than the other one untill you hit 20mph than they both read the same. going back to shop Wednesday but we dont have a clue where to go next.
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So my F150 (with 4r70w) has a weird issue. If I jump on it (only briefly) and then drive normally it gets stuck in a high idle/late shift mode. Sometimes it won't even shift until 3500 - 4000 RPM. If I stop and restart it will usually go back to normal (depending on how warm the tranny is, the warmer it is, the less likely to fix on restart). Now I understand that if you give it a lot of gas it will shift later, but like I said, it get's stuck in this mode even if I have a light foot after. The really weird thing is that it does this after cruising on the highway for a while. Also, the OD light does not flash.
As I'm writing this, I just realized that a common thing is warm tranny fluid. I'm not sure if it's the tranny because the high idle and the fact that it will shift fine if babied. There are no codes.
Here's what I've done: Flushed tranny fluid and filter (full flush, not just the little bit with the filter change), replaced TPS, replaced PCV, replaced IAC valve, replaced a few vac lines, and cleaned entire throttle body (including EGR valve).
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I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
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Today im driving along in my 2000 X v-10 limited and had the AC blowing on high. All of a sudden it started to blow out the defroster vents, then back to the correct dash vents, then back and forth intermittently.....No vacuum leaks that I could find.. Is that controls what vent doors open to control air flow?
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I have 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. I have been reading up on the idle problems with these vans. However, most responses are in regard to the engine stalling and/or it trips a code. My does not do this. Sometimes the idle is rough and other times everything is smooth. I am thinking it may be an egr valve or dpfe valve.
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I have a 2005 6.0L Excursion. I'd like to do the high idle mod. From looking in the tech folder there are two options.. Option #1 being for 2003-2004 trucks and Option #2 being for 2005+ trucks. The assumption for Option #2 is that there is wiring from the factory for the upfitter switches. My engine build is a 2004 and I could not find any evidence of the orange upfitter wires so I proceeded with Option #1.
I find wire 294 (white/light blue strip) with no problem.. What I can't seem to find is wire 322 (light blue/yellow strip). I can find the 4 dummy (extra) wires to the engine compartment (Red, White, Blue, Black solids) yet I only find 3 blunt cut wires capped with tape... The colors on those are white/orange strip, light green/white strip and yellow/white strip - no sign of the light blue/yellow strip wire.
Is there something unique about the 2005 Excursions?
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Not really sure if the V-10 is supposed to be this way or not. I've had quite a few of the 4.6 and 5.4, both the 2v and 3v variant. Never had them do it.
Basically, my V-10 doesn't idle down easily. I can do a neutral rev and it will hang out from 1,000 to 1,500 rpm for maybe 2-3 seconds, then drop to normal idle revs.
While in gear and slowing to a stop, it feels like the motor is fighting the brakes and I have to press harder to stop. It also comes off the transmission when going 35-40 mph and letting off the gas. Causes a weird lurch if I have to get back on the gas.
Not dangerous or anything of that sort, but very very annoying. And I feel it's costing me some MPG's since I drive 99% city and have lots of stops. Probably 1-2 MPG at max. Back in my 2v Mustang days I remember some of the guys were modifying the 4.6 2v IAC because of similar complaints. I'm trying to dig up that mod, but it's been a few years.
I plan on cleaning the IAC this week when I get the time
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My Jeep does not always start. All the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to start the engine, they all go off. The lights stay off, and the engine will not start. The ignition won't even click... it's similar to a dead battery. When I turn the key back to its original position (when first inserting), all the gauges spike and the needles jump really high for a split second. When the door is open the gauges keep jumping (spiking). After waiting for 30 minutes, the engine will start fine like nothing was wrong (except the fluctuation in idle). It would rev high at idle sometimes, and sometimes it would idle low... so low in fact the jeep stalls. I have read about the symptoms of crank/camshaft sensors and relay, but I wanted to make sure from people that know more than I or have faced this particular problem.
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Low beams work fine. When I push the Multi-Function lever on the column forward to activate the high beams, I have no lights at all. When it is in low beam (middle) position, low beams work fine. When I pull back for click to pass, only the low beams are active. No high beam indicator in instrument cluster. I have:
1. Replaced both headlight bulbs
2. Replaced the multi-function switch on the column. Checked test pins on switch (MF) they are hot when in either high beam position or click to pass position
3. checked fuses (interior)
#8 - power on both sides of fuse
#16 (15a) High beam headlamps, instrument cluster. ***NO POWER ON EITHER SIDE***
4. checked fuses (engine compartment)
#10 - power on both sides
#21 - Power on both sides
#23 - power on both sides of fuse
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I have the ESOF in a 2000 Excursion. I went to use 4X4 high and it would not give me 4 wheel drive. light on dash said 4X4 but no 4 wheel drive. I was in snow and only rear wheels spun. When switch is placed in 4X4 low I get 4 wheel drive.
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My '00 V10 4x4 w/ 163k miles has had a rough shift from 2-3 (30-40 mph) with high rpms. If I let off the throttle before the shift I can get it to shift smooth, but if I don't let off the throttle it can shift really hard. I only have this issue from 2-3 and it has not gotten worse since I bought the rig almost two years ago. Driving conditions are around town on occasion and for towing a 3k pound pop up. Maybe 2k miles a year so far? The hard shift happens whether towing or not.
I have done just a drain and fill on the trans fluid a year ago. Have not had time to change the filter (even though I have read it's not necessary). I am planning on doing another drain and fill soon along with the filter since I have one and cleaning out the trans pan.
When searching on FTE I read a post about the accumulator springs that can go bad and was wondering if maybe this is the problem? Since I am planning on doing the filter change I was going to do the spring replacement while the pan was open.
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OK, Got this 2000 Excursion with 6.8. Recently, it just won't hardly idle, the code says MAF, but it ain't cause I bought a new one.
The Idle is like this: with MAF plugged in It starts and the rpms shoot up to appx 1200 for about 3 or 4 seconds, then it goes down to a point where you think it is going to stall, BUT at the last second it goes back up to 1200 rpm. It will usually do this for 5 or 6 times, but eventually it does stall.
If MAF is NOT Plugged IN it will start and idle perfectly, but the moment you push the Gas it will barely run at all.
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My 2000 V10 is throwing some codes. The truck drives great, the only thing I notice is the rpm fluctuating down at idle once in a while. It doesn't stall, just not smooth. Here is the log from my torque app that I saved yesterday while driving: Where should I start ? Clean the MAF first ? oxygen sensors ?
Current Fault Log
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P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175: System too Rich (Bank 2)
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0153: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
------------------------------<wbr>----------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.
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I will try to keep this short. Picked up a 2000 f-150 4.2 for my nephews first truck last night. Bought it blind against my better judgement, but the price was right. Got it home, odometer didn't work, fixed the solder joint and was happy it only had 132k on it. Heater core was plugged solid. Got it flushed and at least now its has luke warm heat until I have time for a full coolant flush and new core.
Next on my list is the high idle and engine lights. Its idles around 1300-1700, cold or hot sometimes it drops down. I only have a cheap scanner, but I have 2 codes. PO171 and PO174. Where should I start with diagnosing this? I would assume vacuum leak. Any common spots to check on these?
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I have a 2000 excursion V10. It will die in gear forward or reverse the overdrive light flashes and cel shows code p0720. I have new plugs and COP on all 10 cylinders. I have replaced the differential speed sensor and the sensor on top of the transmission. I have a basic code reader it shows at the time it dies the vehicle speed is 70 mph while the speedometer shows 0. When I unhook the abs module it still has code p0720 but it does not die. I am replacing the abs module?
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This is for a friends gasser V-10. It has a new fuel pump and oil change. Wont idle or stay running?
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I have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
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I am posting about a cam sensor code and alternator belt squeal.
Yesterday after getting in from a 600 mile drive from salt lake to eastern Oregon i took a look at the car to put some fogs in and clean it up a bit. It had always had some odd vibration at idle and belt squeal intermittently at idle. I pressed down on the alternator at idle and the vibration noise went away. So bam. Found that.
The nut on the square head mounting bolt holding the alternator was missing. So it was kind of just flapping around. Replaced the bolt and put a lock nut on. Problem solved so I thought.
I'm still getting belt squeal. And i think that its out of alignment. It looks like the pulley side of the alternator is closer to the engine block than the other side. Is this adjustable? Is the bushing on the mounting side worn out to the point of movement? Is this fixable?
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