Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Hard Start - Clunking Noise When Pedal Pressed?
Jul 11, 2014
The vehicle is a 2000 Excursion 7.3 Diesel. I have never owned a diesel before....
First issue is that I have developed a hard start. It started last Saturday, and went from sporadically starting hard, to starting hard every time. I have 146,000 miles on her. She cranks strong, but will not turn over the first time, sometimes takes 2, 3, or 4 times. (Foot on gas pedal) I don't know if it's an issue of not getting enough fuel or what. Occasionally, even after she starts, it's very rough (shaking the whole vehicle, and acting like she wants to die) until I rev the engine and she smoothes out. After she smoothes out, there is no problem with wanting to drive, she's strong. If I kill the ignition, and start up immediately, she starts the first time, it's only after 10 minutes or so of being off.
My next issue is a clunking noise when I press the gas pedal. I don't know if it's the tranny, because she shifts pretty smooth for the most part, doesn't miss gears, etc. I could be travelling say 50MPH, press the gas pedal very little, and I can hear the clunking, and actually feel it every time I press it. (Don't have to be mashing the pedal, happens on very light presses as well).
I have the TS Performance 6 position chip, otherwise she's stock. I tow roughly a 7000 travel trailer every couple of weeks, never any problems before this.
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This has happened 4 times now over 2 weeks. The engine will turn over but will not start till I press the gas pedal. I have to keep the engine running for a few seconds by hold the gas pedal steady.After it's running you can cut the engine off and it will start right back up.
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I have a 2000 ford excursion limited when i drive a loud clunking noise comes from the front end, so i pulled the front passenger tire off and realized what looks like the axle bearing behind the hub assembly is rattling around. What part is that. I am going to post a picture tomorrow in the day light.
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, 5spd with 3.0 v6. The speedometer will jump around or quit about half the time whenever you push the brake pedal or use the turn signals. I've cleaned all the grounds I can find including taking the battery cables off the clamps and cleaning them, and I had to clean all the fuses (inside box and outside box) because most of them were corroded. It still does it. Occasionally, I'll hear a buzzing/crackling noise like electricity arcing when I use the brakes or the turn signals which sounds like it's coming from the left side of the dashboard.
I took off panels and the fuse box, but I don't see any sign of arcing. Also, the noise only occurs when the truck is actually moving, never when it's sitting still. Also, the engine has a slight flutter at an idle. I hooked up a computer, and the O2 sensors were erratically jumping between rich and lean, so I replaced all of them. It says Insufficient EGR flow detected, so I did put a new EGR valve on and cleared the codes, but it still reads the same. And lastly, the computer refuses to finish either of its diagnostic tests. I've tried the Koeo and the koer tests, and neither will complete.
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Installed Tekonsha P3 on my 2000 F350 I used the recommend pig tail easy hookup when I press brake pedal no voltage at plug but when I move the manual lever I get voltage. I believe the stop light switch activates it. The fuses all check out. I did have a Banks engine brake installed by their people I don't know if makes a difference
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Yesterday I was driving home and my clutch started acting up. To start I was unable to press the pedal. The pedal was super hard, then let up but didn't feel right.
I removed the slave and the pedal went down fine. Both the master and the slave have no leaking and fluid levels are good. I haven't been able to have a buddy look at the levels when I press the clutch, but....
Here is a little more, the car shifts fine with the car off, it goes into all the gears, but with the car on it will not shift into gear. Also there is a light grinding noise when I let the clutch out..
I ordered a clutch kit already, but don't want to pull the trans if I don't have to, I would love to hear the issue is with the master or slave.....
2005 Hyundai accent with 138,000 miles
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I have a 2006 F150 that cranks but will not start. I sprayed ether into intake and got it to start but engine dies if gas pedal pressed. It idles after starting just will not accelerate.
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Had a No start issue.Turn the key and nothing. Could hear the relays click so knew it wasn't the ignition. Could jump the starter via the wire on the passenger fender so starter good. Replaced the clutch position switch last night. Still have no start but now when I press clutch I have a tow haul light come on dash.If I press it again it turns off. Truck doesn't have tow haul option installed. I hear a relay clicking under the dash too. This is a 2004 Superduty (F550). Replaced the ignition switch today and still same.
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape, and today I noticed that while backing out of my driveway (downhill) as I pressed the brake pedal it made this grinding noise, but when I got out of the car I looked through the tires and the rotors and pads were fine. I did not get a chance to check the inner side of the rotor or pad yet. What else could this noise be if it's not the brakes? It only makes this noise when I press the brake pedal which is why I thought it was the brakes.
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The front end of my Toyota Echo has been squealing but only when it's either in drive or in 2nd gear and only when the brake pedal is pressed, once I release the brake pedal it only squeals for a few seconds then once the car moves faster than 5 miles an hour it goes away.. I completely replaced the suspension late last year. I just replaced the belt a few minutes ago and it still does this. I noticed that when the car is off and in park, when I shake the car forward and backward I hear a slight squeal coming from the front. I think it might be the engine mounts and or the transmission mount. What could it be?
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Malibu no start issue. It cranks, but will not start until she presses the gas pedal to floor. When it does start, it is a very low Idle but smooth. as soon as she lifts the gas, the car dies. Kinda like ran out of gas.
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Sometimes my 96 Subaru Legacy will not turnover unless the brake pedal is pressed. Other times starts without my foot on the pedal. It seems to need the brake pedal addition more often if it has sat a couple hours or more without being started.
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I was wondering if this problem is the "Barking" noise that keeps coming up the search or is it another problem. I will include a link to the video down below.
To start off, the Prius is 2010 Prius II and has 120k miles on it. Great Car. Only other problem was AC compressor dying at 90k.
The chirping noise happens when the brake pedal is pressed and does not go away until the release the pedal. It makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off.
It makes the noise when the car is stopped and or when the mechanical brake engage at between 0 and 6 mph.
Noise does not occur when the brake switch is removed. Not valid solution since the brake lights will stay on. It does not affect the performance of braking.
Here is the link to the video .... .... ....
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My wife called and said her ES350 couldn't start. I told her to wait 5 minutes and tried again. It still wouldn't start.
So I went there and tried to start the car. My first try did not work either. I noticed that the brake pedal couldn't be pressed down. It was quite stiff. So I pressed hard on the brake pedal and tried again. This time it started. It has been working fine since then.
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I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu, automatic transmission. When I put it in reverse and then press the gas pedal, I get a rather loud grinding noise for a couple of seconds. What is causing this, and is it doing any real damage? I have no other problems with the transmission.
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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2010 Toyota Corolla 59 k kilometers ... I recently bought this car pre-owned by the dealership. I am having it inspected again next week on the Monday.
The car makes a continuous squeaky noise like metal rubbing together when the clutch pedal is not being pressed. The sound stops when pressing the clutch pedal. I opened the hood of my car while the engine was running and found that the part responsible for the noise, but I do not know what this is and wanted to be a little more educated before putting money down on a problem that i can't understand. The sound is heavier when the car speeds up or on high revs. It seems the piece in the picture is rattling.
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I am looking to purchase a 1993 Chrysler New Yorker and when I test drove it I noticed that every time the brake pedal was pushed a mechanical whirring noise was audible. This happened every time the brake was pushed whether the car was moving or not. The car brakes seemed to work fine and there were no other noises associated with normal brake problems. The noise seemed to come from inside the car. What that might be? Also, any other reasons to not buy a 93 New Yorker with about 115,000 miles on it for cheap?
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I have a 2011 Camry, and I noticed about 6 months ago that when I'm driving the car after its been at rest for several hours, within about a quarter of a mile into the drive, there is this slight rattle/click, simultaneously somewhere around the gas pedal it feels like something clicks into place. After that the rest of the drive is completely normal.
Recently this occurrence seems to happen more frequently, and not just when the car's been parked for awhile.
To me this car is still practically brand new, and I'd hate to think that there's something majorly wrong.
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Got stuck in the sand pits today. While trying to get out by going forward and back. I always get the front end starts bouncing hard. I always let off. Is this wheel hop or axle wrap?
Whatever it's called. How do I minimize this. It's a shame to have all that power and not be able to lay it down.
2002 excursion 4x4 7.3 l all stock.
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