I also tried jump starting - get same same result. Engine cranks, turns, and then sounds like it is just about to start up normally but it just dies completely. It seems to want to start but just can accelerate the engine high enough to keep it running. Almost like it's flooded on a carb motor.. 2000 V10..
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
View 2 Replies2001 Ex V-10 4x4. Ran like a top yesterday. Turns over fine but not even a sputter today. Plenty of fuel & battery. Has spark. Tried starting fluid, but nothing. No codes. Checked fuses and relays in dash & under hood. Fast forward an hour...
Went out and tried it again - fired up like nothing ever happened. Plowed snow for the better part of an hour, - ran like a champ again, smooth, no missing or stutters - parked it and shut it off. Tried to start it again within a minute or so and it would start, run rough & die. Tried a few more times with same results. Now it cranks fine but no start, no sputter. Gonna try a fuel filter tomorrow.
If it were the fuel pump, wouldn't it throw a code?
My 02 6.8 v10 4x4 4.30 X has a big problem. I was driving on sand and all of the sudden it stopped and dies. Had no trans fluid and a dead battery. After paying $450 to get it off the beach i filled the trans fluid and got a jump and it runs. When put in gear wether in 4WD or not it does NOT move. Only when put in neutral and pulled ... red dot is pavement, blue is where i got to, star is where i broke down on the way out...smh
View 7 Repliesthe truck has a few problems however nothing that I cannot be fixed (I hope). It has low miles, and I think I know why.
(1) I found out today that if you turn hard to the right the motor shuts off. ...It restarts easy.. . It will not do the same on left turns ..
(2) the Elect windows still go up and down at anytime after you cut the motor off and pull the key...
(3)The AC cuts off and will not restart..(the PO has replaced the low pressure switch) however I found that power is going to the clutch. I taped the clutch and it pulled in....If I remeber right it was spoken somewhere the one could pull the clutch and remove a washer...Is this true, and is any special tools needed?
My Excursion keeps blowing fuse #45, a/k/a "Ignition switch Run/ Start feed"
Going to have to go in shop. Seems to be a short in the steering column.
Then the dash lights go dim, headlights die, engine sputters and dies. I am guessing alternator most likely.
These two things might be related? Maybe there's not a short in the steering column, I dunno.
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger, manual shift. It always starts when cold, but sometimes -- very sporadic -- it will not start after I've gone somewhere. This has happened maybe 8 times over the past 18 months or so. Always, after sitting a while, it starts right up as though nothing happened. Several months ago I left it with a mechanic for an entire week, but he could never get it to act up. Of course.
In browsing through these discussions, I've seen the "starter/clutch interlock switch" mentioned. Here is my question, though. Would the starter still crank if that was the problem? or does that switch stop the starter from engaging?
When mine acts up, the starter cranks, the engine turns over ... it just acts like it's not getting fuel. Is that a starter/clutch interlock switch issue? Or something else?
I have a 2000 excursion V10. It will die in gear forward or reverse the overdrive light flashes and cel shows code p0720. I have new plugs and COP on all 10 cylinders. I have replaced the differential speed sensor and the sensor on top of the transmission. I have a basic code reader it shows at the time it dies the vehicle speed is 70 mph while the speedometer shows 0. When I unhook the abs module it still has code p0720 but it does not die. I am replacing the abs module?
View 8 RepliesMy 1988 Mustang 5.0 GT has stalled out once last year and again recently. Same situation. I drove it for 300 miles with stops about every hour and a half. Pushed to to 90 MPH at times. Ran fine other times on the road for more than two hours. But all of a sudden the engine dies. Electrical all works but won't turn over. If I sit in it for about 10 minutes, it will start and run for the next 5 to 10 minutes than a cough or two and pull over. I have had new plugs put in and also replaced the whole distributor. Ford mechanics have stared at it and scratched their heads and say it is running fine when they hand it back to me.
View 2 RepliesThe water level is up, the heater hose is hot on both sides of the heater hose bypass valve, the MtrCrft thermo is pretty new, but it blows cool air out the vents even after a half hour of driving. It was working great last week and then nothing. I guess you can see the blend door moving if you pop the glove box out?..........haven't tried that.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1979 Ford Thunderbird with a V8 5.0 liter engine. Here's the mysterious problem... the engine turns over when I turn the key but stalls when the key is released. Thinking that the alternator died, I replaced it with a new re-manufactured unit and the car's symptoms stayed the same. Also checked the fuses and the fuel filter and found that plenty of fuel is getting to the carburetor. This issue with the car not starting appeared literally overnight after I attempted to install a new radio. Prior to this the car ran reasonably well – always started easily and ran without a problem. Wondering if there is a possibility that I fried some part of the electrical system when I fussed around with all the wiring under the dash. Someone else had attempted the radio installation previously so the wiring there was already a mess of cuts and re-connections and was hard to sort out.
View 7 RepliesI have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
View 9 RepliesOK, so my 2000 FWD 6.8L Ex has 128k actual miles on the odometer w/ a stock 6.8L from a wrecked later model truck with ~115k actual miles on this 2nd engine from what I was told by the PO/2nd owner (I have no reason to doubt him and I verified the history with the original owner). So I'm guessing that the 4R100 is original without having ever been rebuilt.
I've had zero issues with the drivetrain up to this point, this truck has always run like a top and been very reliable. This afternoon in drive time traffic the overdrive light started flashing and at the same time I noticed that the transmission was shifting really hard (snapping into the next gear) and not in a good way. I was in stop and go traffic when it was shifting weird like this. At one point I make it up to 55+ and I noticed that the O/D light had quit flashing and now it was shifting like it normally does. Then back into stop and go driving the O/D light starts flashing again accompanied by the weird hard shifts.
Next thing I'm sitting there with my foot on the brake fully stopped waiting for traffic to start moving through the traffic signal when out of nowhere and no indication of anything being amiss the engine quits and I get dash lights including CHECK ENGINE and THEFT. I cycle the key off and then try to restart it. It took nearly 10 seconds of cranking to get it to start up however once started everything is back to normal and I have NO trouble lights illuminated including no O/D light and it's back to shifting normally. I continue on in stop and go and highway speed driving for the next 15 minutes like nothing ever happened, transmission is shifting like it always has. The truck has been turned off once and restarted since that incident, yet no other indications of any issue. What's going on?? What to check into?
Tranny died 12000 miles ago and shop rebuilt tranny with new torque converter.
Problem then and now is after long freeway run 60+miles it dies and bogs down with any shift change. If it is placed in 2nd it will bogg down and die. If the tranny auto shifts it also dies. If it cools or just sits it will run again for a while. This does not happen always so it is hard to duplicate it.
Truck is not towing or even loaded most of the time and only once was it loaded when it died, the first rebuild. Truck has 249000 miles, ex v10.
So any clues as to what the shop missed last time and is it worth rebuilding again. Truck is only worth a bit more than the cost of shop time.
I am at my wits' end with my 98 Honda Civic LX. The problem starts around late summer of last year. It is sporadic, so I didn't quite pay attention until one day the engine died on the highway after I picked up the kids at the school. It didn't make any sound nor giving any warnings, just suddenly died. After that highway episode, it seems like it just taken its own fancy schedule as far as when to die, so to say. In a given day, it could 4 episodes in a day. Then it runs perfectly for some weeks then it starts again and went away again.
It just quietly dies while being driven. I had to turn it completely off, wait for some moment and try to turn it on again. Sometimes it just turns on again without me being frustrated and there were moments when I had to do several attempts. Once I heard clicking sound before the engine died, only once, the rest makes no sound at all. No lights are on.
I have a 95 Volvo 850 2.2 L (non-turbo.) I recently replaced the fuel pump, and filter. Now when I try to start the engine, it turns over and sputters before it dies. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and try again with the same results and the same with a longer wait time due to having to charge my battery. I have checked the fuel lines and they seem to be clear, up to the fuel rail. I also checked the plugs and although they need to be replaced, after sanding and re-gaping them, there is plenty of spark. The plug wires and distributor cap are fairly new, and the points look good. So the only problem I see as logical, is the fuel rail, pressure regulator, and injectors. I have bled the fuel rail at the shrader valve, and I am getting little to no fuel from it. I want to remove the injectors and rail, and check out the regulator along with the rest. But how do I tell if the regulator is good, and what is the best way to clean injectors so they will at least last till I can replace them with new?
View 2 RepliesI drive an 05 Chevy Classic (that's an '04 Malibu made in '05), and it's never given me problems (though I've only had it about 2 years). This morning, I can't get it going. The engine turns over when I turn the key (though some of the time it takes several moments), but then as soon as I let go of the key, the engine dies. I tried giving it gas, but this doesn't seem to make a difference. After a couple of tries I noticed that the dashboard lights weren't coming on. They usually all light up while the starter runs, and I can at least get them to light most of the time when the key is turned to "on". None of this works. The power windows will open and close when I have the key turned to on, so the electrical system works somewhat.
View 8 Replies09 corolla. Wife said it was hard to start this morning and when she got off work. it started fine right after she got home. i waited a few hours, after dinner and went out to start it and it takes the engine about 3 seconds to start.
Normally when I turn the key the engine cranks up and starts. today it cranks or turns over about 3 times before starting. and there's no error/engine lights. tested the battery, full charge. not sure what else to check.
We are in Houston TX, with about 95'F day temps, you could call it a cold start since the engine has been resting and cooling off. but not cold like freezing temp.
'99 Intrigue (3.5L) with 65k miles. The car has sporadic starting problems where turning the key in the ignition turns the starter motor and results in one of the following scenarios:
1) The engine does not turn on.
2) The engine turns on, RPMs drop and the engine sputters and dies.
3) The engine turns on with no problems (like this morning).
It does not appear to matter whether the engine is hot or cold.
Reading forum posts of people that have seen similar problems, several different solutions would seem to be in order:
1) Replace fuel pressure regulator.
2) Replace crankshaft position sensor
3) Replace camshaft position sensor
4) Replace fuel filter
5) Replace spark plugs
6) Replace idle air control valve
7) Clean the throttle body
Since I rather not start throwing money at the car by replacing parts one by one until the problem is gone.
2000 GTI GLS 2.0L ... I understand I need to replace the Ignition Coil Pack on my car. I have looked on ECS Tuning to find the coil pack, but from all the pictures I see of other people coil packs they look nothing like what mine do. So I'm wondering if they are different for my specific car? So the issue that I have is my engine sputters sometimes, but more so when is wet outside. Its only cylinder 2 misfiring currently, and I replaced my Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump already in the past 4 or 5 months. Also a local shop had done some work recently and I know they had replaced the spark plugs. So I'm just wondering what coil packs I need for my car, and how I would go about replacing them. From what I saw online with other 2.0L (They weren't GTIs tho) was that the coild pack was behind the SIA pump or something like that, and they are a small black box. It looks to me that my coil packs are inline above the spark plugs and cylinders?
View 2 RepliesI have an 05 diesel. I have noticed the last 3 days I needed to crank it slightly longer to start it and it takes a second before ideling normally. It usually fires right up and jumps to life. Today i drive about 45 minutes. Stoped for about 30 minutes and shortly after I started it back up the check engine light came on. Will the Ex flash you the codes or do you have to have a reader? Thought I would try Autozone tomorrow but not sure if they read deisel codes or not. I was suspecting maybe glow plugs but who knows at this point. It seems to be running fine and I checked all fluids.
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