Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Door Ajar Light Staying On
Nov 6, 2012
So my 2000 ex has the door ajar light on. I have narrowed it down to the drivers side rear door. I have sprayed wd40 and pb blaster into the latch and its still on.
I have taken the panel off and sprayed everything inside. I pulled apart the wires running inside the door and tried doing some experimenting with twisting wires together, Hoping to close off the circuit.
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02 limited explorer with 114k. The door ajar light keeps staying on and the dome light wont go off. This has happened 5 times now in 2 days. I open and close each door and hatch a couple times and it eventually goes away or I turn off vehicle and restart trying to clear message. How do I test and locate where the issue is coming from?
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Door ajar light stays on. Lights were staying on until they timed off but after two days they have returned to normal operation. Where the switch is located on the door frame, I can't seem to find it. 2002 ex psd.
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My 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!
Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.
About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.
After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.
I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).
I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.
I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!
I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.
I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).
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Truck '02 F250 SuperCab - I was having an issue with the door ajar light staying on and the radio not shutting off upon exiting the truck. After having no luck with the WD-40 fix, I replaced the door switch sensor on the driver's side door and disconnected the negative battery cable for a few minutes (maybe 5-10).
Problem solved or so I thought...a few days later (approximately 5) the door ajar light came back on and the radio did not shut off. I disconnected the negative cable and sure enough that fixed it...again The problem is that every few days I have to go thru this. I'm not sure if it's related or not, but the CD player has started giving me "error reading disc" on even brand new CD's.
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Door ajar light is on all the time. How do I check which of the eight switches are bad. I've tried the wd spray trick before and it worked but now it won't respond to that treatment and is on all the time. Overhead light goes out after a few minutes of driving.
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The "Door Ajar" light on my Ex has apparently decided that I would enjoy having the little red light on the dash illuminated. Normally, I'd consider this just a nuisance, but it's convinced the interior and running board lights to play along so that they don't go out until they time out. I'm pretty sure that it's in the rear door somewhere. Where the sensor(s) are for the rear doors and how to test them?
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I am sure that it is not related to the doors or latch sensors not working because I've sprayed a ton of lube in there, lots of door slamming, and the "Door Ajar" light isn't on with the truck keyed on. I already have the middle row map light bulbs removed. I heard that should fix it but didn't. Running board lights won't go out but not the door/hatch sensors?
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I own a 2002 excursion and my dash light for door ajar stays on, I pulled all of the contacts off the rear doors and hatch and found that there are no electric hook up to what I thought would be the contacts i needed to be looking at. So what relays the signal to my dash that the doors are in fact closed?
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Bought a '02 V10 gas 4wd Ex a week ago pretty cheap, and looking to fix a multitude of little issues.
I have been reading about the door ajar warning light issue, and mine alike has door ajar light always on. However, my dome/interior lights do not react to the opening of any doors/rear door hatch.
It's not out of the question that the last owner might have disconnected what he needed to to avoid fixing the problem and still use the truck. Where to start given I can't troubleshoot down to one particular door ajar sensor?
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The dome light and door ajar light on my 97 Ranger stay on. The switches are good, is there a relay or other device in the circuit?
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2000 Excursion 2WD 6.8L V-10. Dashboard brake light has come on and is staying on. Fluid is up in reservoir visual on lines and calipers appear in standard nick. Bad brake light switch?
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When it rains my "door ajar" light comes on and the overhead lights won't turn off. that's the common problem. i've read many threads where it says to spray liberally with WD40. i intend to do that but the plot thickens.
Usually, after a few dry days, the light goes off and everything returns to normal. Not so any more. the newest episode entails the light staying on for two weeks of good warm, dry weather. naturally i always take the bulbs out. Now, its somewhat sporadic but.... I'll try to explain since I'm still trying to wrap my mind around it.
1. light stays on, dome lights won't go off.
2. tried dome lights couple of times, still wouldn't go off
3. finally, inserted dome lights and they wouldn't come on (except when manually switched on) however the door ajar switch was still on.
4. EXCEPT when i opened the passenger door the domes came on but wouldn't go off so i took the bulbs out again.
5. that's where i am now.
Not positive but I'm thinking since the new wrinkle in established expectations that I'll probably end up replacing the driver's switch. Before I tear up the door panel i need some hints concerning removal. the door has power windows and locks (which i need new actuators but that's a different story). Is there anything I need to watch out for?
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My door ajar light is stuck on in my 2000 Subaru Forester, whether the car is on or not. I had to replace the battery as it ran down the old one. Sometimes it goes off for a week or more at a stretch, but it always comes back on. As of now it has been on continuously for about 8 months. I have tried everything minus taking the door panels off.
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When I turned the key on, interior lights stayed on and the door "ajar" icon was on. Open and shut all the doors including the rear hatch. Still on. Did it again and still on. Ran X through the car wash yesterday and all worked OK when I parked it. Didn't have my glasses on so I could not see a specific door open. In fact they all appeared to be open. Did not have time to screw with it.
Where are the door/hatch switches located?
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2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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when i bough the car i went on a test drive and everything was fine, once i bough it and went home my fiance opened the passanger side door to get in, and every sense than the door ajar light is on and the inside lights will never turn off and its draining down the battery, we have tried slamming the door shut and we just dont know what to do, theres not even a sensor botton to check out theres no way to tell what it could be for me as when i open the door to check out the botton like most vehicles do, there isnt one, what could it be?
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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Having issues with the rear tailgate door unlocking. Seems like mine on occasion is only making a noise but not unlocking completely and showing the door ajar light with the beep. When it happens, its a pain to get it to stop and close completely, or even open. I have to push hard on the door to get it to stop.
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My Dome lights don't work when you open the door. I can manually turn them on though. Also door ajar light is on. Are these issues caused by the door latch switch? Also have no fog lights I replaced the switch and bulbs. I have a 2003 F250.....
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