Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Blower Resistor Wiring Short?
May 10, 2012
Bought my 2000 X from a guy a week or so ago, and am now fixing all of its little "quirks". A/C blower would only blow on high, diagnosed it as a faulty blower motor resistor and got a new one. Pulled the old one out and the wiring plug that plugs into it is fried!! 3 of the plugs are stuck in it from the resister itself and there is obvious signs of shorting. What my next step should be? Im considering getting a new plug and splicing the wires back into it, but that just ignores the obvious shorting. How to fix the short?
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Ok, I've read about the blower motor resistor, and everyone says you should have HIGH speed on the fan.
2002 Excursion with digital display.
I turn the truck on, then turn on the blower. A small puff of air comes out then shuts off completely. I can hear the direction doors opening when i change between foot and face A/C.
Is this the blower resistor that needs changing?
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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I'm looking for information and possible photo location for the blower motor resistor. My truck has climate control. I've looked under the dash on the passenger side and behind the glove box door and I've been unable to spot the location. Do I have to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box?
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Have a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
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I parked my 2003 f150 about 8wks ago, and at that time the blower had been running only on high then not at all, then only on high again.
As I need it to pull the boat up north next week, I purchased and changed the resistor. When I started it up the blower motor wouldn't run and eventually it started to smoke, so I pulled the wire connector to the motor.
Where I can find a procedure for motor testing, and removal as I think this is probably where I'm headed with this. There seems to be utube videos on everything else but not this. I may just have to go out and purchase a Hains or Chilton manual but I'm Scottish and always look for the free route first.
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2003 Limited explorer 237k with auto climate controls. 95 degrees out and a/c on when fan speed began going up and down a few times and then completely off. Won't work on heating as well. Rear fan works fine so I changed the resistor but still nothing. The control lights up when changed as usual but no fan. What to change next?
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Where the blower motor resistor is located on the '05 model.
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I have google it looked all over was told it was under the hood next to the fan even shown a photo when I went under the hood right were the resistor was in the photo there was a long black box about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. looked nothing like the photo.
So I went back on line and read that its above the passengers feet you take a few screws off after you take the glove box off and it should be there. Well after taking 8 screws off I find nothing but a coil behind there. Nothing that looked like a resistor.
2006 f350 diesel?
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I am not great with electrical but can manage. Here's the deal, Ihave a 1997 ford ranger 2wd 2.3L 5spd with a/c 233,000 miles i just replaced the heater blower motor resistor as the old one was rusted bad as was the pig tail going to it bad that one of the terminals broke off and was rusted in the harness so i replaced the plug as well problem is i still have no fan if i jump it it works but have no power at the plug for resistor or motor and no power at the switch inside the truck I do have power to one terminal where the relay plugs in, where to look next?
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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I'm on my second blower motor and fourth blower motor resistor since purchasing my 2000 Ex approximately 3 months ago. The fan returns after replacing the resistor but ultimately, fails after 2-3 weeks. What can I test, what can I do? The weather is changing quickly here in NOVA and being without a reliable heater is a non-starter for the family vehicle.
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I have a 2000 EX and my front A/C blower wet the bed yesterday. I have checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood. I removed the blower motor and supplied 12vdc directly to it. Works like a champ. I metered the harness connector with the ignition on and the fan speed switch at all speeds, I get a range of 8.1 to 8.9vdc. I metered the fuse terminals as well and get a steady 13.2vdc. Before I rip the dash apart, what is the most common to fail the Blower Resistor, Fan Speed Switch, or Blower Motor. Or, do I have a completely different issue?
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I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
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Im out of options, the guy who usually scans my car for me is nowhere to be found. I changed the blower resistor and the blower still does not stay consistently on. My next guess is a bad relay somewhere.
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Where blower resistor is located?
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My blower works half of the time...from what I have researched it is more than likely the resistor. The thing is I can't find it..all the videos and pictures looks like they are the **** control control. Where this is located for the dual climate control?
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Coming home from the shore and turned of the air but not blower. No speeds at all. Fiddled with it until I got to a rest stop. KOEO, tapping the blower did nothing and swapping relays did nothing. 40 amp fuse and inside #22 ok. Had some time last week and discovered that power to blower was intermittent. Pulled the resistor pack plug and it was partially melted and upon removal of resistor pack I could see it was toast. Replaced that and pigtail and still got intermittent blower and intermittent voltage at blower connector.
Days go by with only a chance of it working but noticed it turned on more when I started the truck with the blower motor switch turned on. Maybe bad contacts somewhere or maybe loose connector in harness I thought. I had been meaning to replace some burned out cluster bulbs with new LED's, so I bought a motor switch and did both items. Left the front dash part off because nothing changed as far as the blower was concerned.
I downloaded the schematic to end the frustration and see the power going into Mode Selector switch, black/yellow. My test probe gets nothing through insulation with KOEO. Pulling the connector and probing the contact of the blk wire and I get blower all speeds but no light glowing from test probe as if I just grounding it. I have to add that 1/2 the time I got not blower and 1/2 the time I did, so It was intermittent there as well. Doing this again several times while restarting the key to run and still the same until after about 8 times, I finally get a light on the probe, probing the wire while its connected and I get it now with it disconnected and all seems ok. I have blower each time for the last dozen restarts and I cant make any sense of it.
I just have a feeling this good heat isn't going to last. Should I replace the Mode Selector Switch? It seems the relay coil wasn't energizing but now it is. Last week I shot the relay seat with contact cleaner and replaced it with new napa one out of frustration.
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I have installed my 6th resistor and they continue to burn up, leaving #5 only.
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Front blower resistor going bad over and over? I've replaced it 4 times and it will last a few months. Then the van comes back with high blow only. There is an electrical component built into the resistor that has failed every time. I don't know if this is built-in fusible link or what. I've measured the resistance on a new one, which was basically 0 ohms, so I doubt it's a resistor, and can't be a capacitor. I've been wondering if the blower motor is drawing too much juice ( never blown the fuse ). How many amps the blower should draw. This is on a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport w/ rear ac.
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I have a 2004 pontiac grand prix gt. I read some where that some of these have the resistor and blower motor close together and that the molding or rubber that runs at the bottom of the windshield after time will leak water into the blower motor and resistor and cause a short. I believe this has been the cause of a lot of my issues with car shorting out. the other day had to have it towed for the first time in its 11 years and found out it was one of the j fuses arcing causing the car not to start.
It's already 267,000 miles.
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