Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Battery Light Has Been On - Flickering Sometimes Or Stay Solid
Jan 22, 2015
I have a 2000 Ford Excursion XLT 2WD with just over 155,000 miles on it, for awhile now My battery light has been on and off or it'll flicker and some times it will even stay solid. I checked the batteries and the alternator a while ago and got good readings from them. I just thought it was a code that never got reset. Well this morning I was driving it and I noticed that when I brought the RPMs over 3,000 the battery gauge would go up to 18 volts and the battery stayed on until the RPMs went back down past 3,000. It did this all morning until I got home and just for kicks I put it in park and revved the engine up to 3,000 RPMs, when I did nothing happened. I tried looking online for an answer and I called a few mechanic shops who all said it was my alternator. I want to make sure that it is in fact the alternator....
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2000 v10 with 188400 miles. Everything runs great. No leaks. Oil pan gasket is weeping, but not dripping. Don't want to cross that bridge yet. Been towing a dual axle trailer with a little car on it quite a bit the last couple of months. Probably total 1,000 miles. Drove it up north which was a steep climb so it really had to work getting up the hills.
My question is, the oil light started flickering last night, and the gauge was also flickering from the L to normal range. It was jumping quite quickly. I put a quart of oil in it today, and the gauge never acted up again. So i think that ruled out the oil sending unit. The truck doesn't leak oil anywhere, at least according to the driveway. Maybe burning oil since I've been towing a lot? I checked the oil dipstick, but couldn't get a good reading. I can post pictures later.
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Just put a side post battery with top post adapters on. I drive to town the battery light was flickering with every little bump finally it turned off. Got to the house car shut off tried to turn it on and nothing no click nothing. The dash lit up half way the radio flickered on and off constantly and and the ebrake light flashed with a beep. I'm at wits end. Just bought a tire and battery and filled the tank and now this happens. 2000 jetta 2.0 GL.....
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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2000 Ford Excursion XLT 4x4 V10 ... Part store shows I need a 3G alternator ... Current alternator put on by PO in 2013/14 s a Duralast DL7764 from Autozone. Tag is still on it.
My battery light is coming on for a few seconds and going off for several hours before it comes on again. Connections are good....crappy Autozone alternators.
But for some reason my motor has a 6G alternator. All parts stores say I need a 3G. Did Ford put 6G'S in all excursions, or do I have a 2004+ motor in my 2000 Ex? Or will a 6G fit where a 3G is supposed to be? All connections look factory including electrical hook ups.
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2002 7.3 ...On my way home tonight, my Service engine soon light came on. How can I pull the code to see whats going on?
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So I have a 2000 6.8l V10 that I recently swapped the engine on (reman). While I was doing that, I decide to do some LED upgrades. I swapped out the turn signals, side marker lights, and headlights with LEDs. I added some LED fog lights, and I have a Rigid light bar.
I replaced pretty much everything on attached to the engine aside from the alternator (it didn't give me any problems, so I figured it was good).
When the truck is running with the lights off, there are 6 LED strips running as DRLs, when the lights are switched on, the side marker, turn signal and headlights turn on. When I switch to high beams, my fogs turn on. The light bar is on its own switch.
During the day with the headlights off, I dont notice the battery/charging system indicator light turn on at all. At night, when I flip the headlights on, I've noticed that it sporadically and randomly flash. The flashing indicator light does not appear to be associated with bumps or anything.
It does not seem to matter if I have just the DRL/low beams on, DRL/high beams+fogs, or DRL/high beams+fogs + light bar on. The indicator light comes and goes with the same random consistency regardless of how much power I am sucking from the alternator/battery. The RPM's of the engine also appear to have no effect on when/how often the indicator light comes on...
I drove for over an hour last night, and the voltage gauge never changed, so the battery does not *seem* to be draining (~1 year old Optima yellow). I added an extra ground wire going from the battery to the engine about a year ago (long before this LED upgrade) to ensure a good ground, so I dont *think* the wires are the issue. Is my alternator suddenly going bad? Any higher output ones I could replace it with? Is it a simple fix that does not require a new alternator?
Here are some pics of the lights:
(This was before the fog light install)
These lights only come on when the truck is in reverse:
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Today my 98 Expedition just started at 50 mph or 3000 rpm with battery light flickering and voltage fluctuation toward high end of 18 volts. Battery is 1 month old. No problems under 45 mph or 2500 rpm.
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This is for a friends gasser V-10. It has a new fuel pump and oil change. Wont idle or stay running?
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Over the past few days the battery light has been flickering and at times staying on. In using the gauge cluster diagnostics, I am getting 12.4 engine off and 13.8 - 14.0 with the engine running.
Even when I'm driving with the battery warning light on I still get a consistent 13.8 - 14.0 (and I do have the headlights on, the A/C running, radio, etc).
Kind of scratching my head on this issue since it appears the alternator and battery are working correctly.
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Over the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
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So, I have have an intermittent flickering of the battery light. The weird part is that it ONLY happens between 80 and 85 mph. Any faster or slower and it doesn't happen. It's not a steady flickering, but a random intermittent flicker. What the issue may be? The car has a new (within 2000 miles) battery and alternator. 1.8t with manual transmission.
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195K, B5, 1999, AEB. The battery light on the dash is flickering...mostly off, but the light (battery symbol) lights up ever-so lightly...then off, then on...on for about half of a 45 minute drive last night. Voltage regulator? Alternator? The battery seems fine, as it turns over after a cold night...
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MKIV R
28xxx miles
So here's the deal. I first purchased the car about 2 months ago. Aside from preventative maint (plugs, coils, new fluids, oil, filters, etc.) no problems with the car whatsoever. However, I noticed at night with the lights on, the instrument cluster and every now and then the lights will "flicker". Not knowing when the original owner replaced the battery, if ever (it was an OEM battery so I wasn't positive), I figured maybe its a sign the battery was going.
So I replaced with an OEM VW battery a couple weeks ago (less than 1000 miles on it) and it appeared the problem was corrected. The instrument panel and even headlights, seemed brighter too and no flickering! Then last night, I noticed it was happening again. There is no problem with the car, except for the flickering, and I'm wondering if its not the battery, is it the alternator? What are some other problems I might expect to see if it was? Do I just get a voltmeter and test? Is there an electrical wiring issue somewhere?
Not sure if it matters but I did do a search and noticed some people have had problems after a rain storm. Im in NC and it rains almost every day or every other day, most of which I'm not driving the car but it sits outside. It did rain the other day when I noticed it happening (not while driving just prior to me driving). ALso, no CEL or Alternator Workshop.
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2009 3.3 GLS ... Yesterday my wife told me that the battery light in her Sonata was flickering for just a fraction of a second at a time at irregular intervals. Nothing else was an issue so we didn't think much of it, started fine, no other lights.
She just called me to tell me that on her way into work it started very hard, all the lights on the dash were flashing, the engine was stumbling and wanting to quit, and the radio is no longer working.
It will be several hours until I can get to it to check it out, but my first thought is to check the grounds. I haven't worked on this vehicle in the past so exactly where to look first or any other issues I should look for...
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2003 - Just recently my battery light started coming on and off on the dash, and occasionally my headlights would turn off and come back on. Now the ABS and BRAKE lights flash and the headlights are still on and off. I have already scraped (not cleaned) most of the corrosion off of the terminals on the battery and tightened the connections...
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2000 f350 interior buzzing noise opened the door went away, shut the door after a little while came back. Then notice the dome light flickering, took the dome light bulb out it completely stopped?
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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I've a Hyundai 03 Accent that wont turn over. The heater fan would stay on with the key removed and subsequently my battery went dead flat.
I tried to roll start, then jump start to no avail. I fully charged the battery overnight but now when starting the car there is no response. I checked the battery - 12.7 volts. Checked the fuse' under the hood, getting power there. Checked the power supply to the ignition switch - 12.7 volts.
There is no lights on the dash - i.e., engine check, airbag etc. But the interior overhead lights, door open and headlights all work fine.
Iv'e got a hold of an 00 accent running fine and have been swapping parts out. I swapped all the fuses I could see that might be causing the problem. Swapped ignition switch. Swapped fuses under the dash.
I have power to the ignition switch with the key out. Key in, no power to switch. On the running accent I have power to different wire depending on key location.
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
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So my car started to misfire when under boost so I had the car scanned the first time and came up with codes P0302, P0303, and P0304 which are all for misfires. I replaced the coil packs not even a year ago and the car drove fine as long as I wasn't in boost. My rpms would fluctuate a little bit but not much. I changed the spark plugs and it seemed to work a little bit but it would still misfire under higher boost. The one thing I noticed was my vacuum sits at around 15-17 in when it used to be around 19-20. I've cleaned and disconnected the MAF and the idle didn't improved. I also cleaned the MAP sensor and AIT and the CTS is new. I've done a pressure test and I found some leaks and fixed them but still no luck. Then yesterday my car started running really rough at idle and the cel would flash while driving then stay solid while stopped. Got the car scanned today and got codes P0300, P0301, P0303, and P0304.
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