Ford Excursion :: 1999 Will Not Crank Over After Transmission Replaced
May 10, 2017
I have a 99 excursion and it has me confused. I had the transmission replaced in it about 3 weeks ago. I parked it about a week ago and it was idling fine I turned it off and now it won't crank over. I have already replaced the starter and the starter solenoid. A friend suggested that there might be an engine ground strap in the area of the transmission that became loose with the recent transmission swap. (I had a shop do the transmission swap so no telling if they did everything perfect) ...
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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I replaced the icp in a 2007 ford 6.0 and now it will not crank. I can unplug the icp and it will start, I can also put the old icp in andit will start. The connection has no oil on it and it seems to fit tight too. Is there any thing else I need to try?
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I have a 2001 Excursion 7.3 Diesel that is having a starting issue. Have replaced the batteries, has new glow plugs, common failing cam position sensor replaced once already. It runs great when it starts, no codes. It will crank, but not turn over at random times. Will do this for 3 or 4 tries...charge the batteries, go back later to start and it will on the second try. Turn it off, try again..and back to cranking, but not starting. Not fun having to worry about being stranded somewhere. Absolutely desperate at this point.
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I am the original owner of a 1999 Honda Accord (automatic transmission) which now has 184,000 miles on it. I just replaced all the tires last year, had to put in a new battery this year, also had to replace the a/c hoses earlier in July.Very recently I had had some problems with the car shifting and when the check engine light came on I took it into the dealership who says it needs a new transmission. They want $4200 to fix it.I have had all the servicing done including oil and filter changes at this dealership which is in Houston, TX.I really like this car, and its the fourth Honda we have owned; three of which were purchased with this same dealer.
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Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
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Just replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
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2006 6.0 king ranch 189k sct live wire Replaced 1357 injectors and when I crank truck it will crank and sputter for a brief second but will not fully start and continue cranking and doing this over and over. Tried starting for roughly 30 minutes would not budge. Tested icp and ficm both are good. Also replaced batteries, fuel filters, checked all relays and fuses still can't figure it out. Also truck is bulletproofed.
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I bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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Today I had to replace both batteries and now my ABS light is on. Before replacing the batteries I was installing a XM satellite system and my dash face plate was removed to make installation easier. After putting everything back together and connecting the new batteries the light is on. Tomorrow I will see if any codes come up using my Scangauge II otherwise I'll have to go to the parts store to have them pulled.
This is on an 04 Ex, Limited, 4x4, 6.0 PSD......
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I successfully replaced the radiator on my 2003 Ford excursion (LMD, V10, gas). I filled her up with coolant and started her and turned on the air full blast.
Noticed though that she is now leaking somewhere between the engine and the transmission pan.Where and what to check?
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Here is my current situation. No cruise, Replaced clock spring because the air bag light was also on. Still no cruise, checked fuses, they are fine, replaced bulb in gauge cluster. Still no light coming on at all, so I can't do the self test. Do you think my steering wheel switches are bad? Is there anything else I can check?
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The X 6.0 was running rough at 1700 rpm and cold it barely ran at all. The dealer did full compression test - pass with no issue. Fuel pressure regulator was bad, they replaced it. They also replaced the fuel filter. That didn't work, so back to the dealer and they diagnosed that the injectors were not optimal for about half of the cylinders. The recommendation was to replace the injectors and they gave me their quote...time for some DIY.
So, I dive in; order and install Warren rebuilt stock injectors (new down tubes and dummy plugs as well). I also went ahead and replaced both oil cooler and screen as well as the EGR cooler with an aFE improved design. I also noted the Turbo was throwing oil into the intake so I replaced the turbo with the PowerMax. Additionally, I replaced the FICM with a BulletProof unit set at 53V. Heck, I went ahead and installed an XPD coolant filter system as well.
Got the X back up and running this weekend and she runs nice, smooth and with authority. So far so good.
This morning I start her up, notice that she isn't running as smoothly. I drive and now the X is not running with that real authority (not as much power but she runs) and I note that some roughness is once again apparent at 1700 RPM.
Obviously, all of this work didn't take care of the root of the problem. What else could cause this issue? Will Rev-X take care of it (I'll get some of that ASAP)? How did she run so well for a few miles and now the problem is coming back?
I have the PHP FICM programmer and am looking to install that next but I doubt that will eliminate the root problem. I don't want to get frustrated so I'm trying to approach this systematically.
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I have a 2004 Big X. Original alternator was replaced as it only was producing 9 volts under a load. Replacement alternator failed within a day. Did I just get a bad re-manufactured one or would something else cause failure?
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Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
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I replaced the motor mounts, and now there is a vibration at speed (70 or so). I've taken it to Michigan and back, so it is probably broken in. Can these things be put in improperly?
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We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
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I bought my Excursion about 3 months ago. So far I've replaced the Alt and battery all because it randomly die on me. I guess no the issue isnt the Alt or battery but an error P0231.
P0231 Low Voltage Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit
[URL]....
I've replaced what I thought was the fuse but not 100 percent sure. I cleared the error message and now it's still doing the random turn off. Now I'm getting an error P1000. Tried google search with very little success.
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A while back I picked up a 1994 Bronco with a bad tranny for a flip. I recently picked up a 1993 E4OD that seemed to work well with low miles to throw in it.
I got it in the Bronco but it does not work right. If you put it in drive if feels like it's taking off in 3rd or 4th gear pull the shifter down one notch and it feels like 2nd gear pull it down again into 1st and no change. It bangs into reverse really hard. When up shifting manully it bangs pretty hard. No kick down at all under any circumstance and no converter lockup. I can't tell if it's in OD or third gear when at highway speed. OD button on the shifter has no effect but the light does go on and off.
I'm not an automatic tranny guy at all but it seems like an electrical issue. I was not able to drive the truck with the original tranny other than reverse (no bang) but the PO told me it was fine till it started slipping. I did test drive the donor truck and the new tranny worked correctly in it.
Being new to the process I need more detail and some of the basics. I'm comfortable with electronics and have the test equipment I just don't know the procedure. I'm guessing a bad connection/wire or something not compatible between the 1993 tranny and the 1994 truck.
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Like the title says...'02 Accent,1.6 dohc.Won't start.No spark.
Pulled code p0335-crank sensor circuit A.
Replaced sensor...still nothing.
Is there something else that commonly goes with these symptoms?...or did I just get a bum sensor?
Also,once I try starting or turn key on,I hear a buzzing coming from throttle body area for about 10 seconds even after key is off. Not sure if its related or normal.
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