Next on my list of needed repairs is new brake lines. The ones running along the frame are rusted pretty bad. I had a 89 F-150 bust a line once and it got real interesting so I would like to change these before that happens.
I have searched and still not gotten a clear answer as to whether I need to get a scan tool and do something with the ABS pump. I would like to know if the scan tool is necessary.
I am going to be changing my brake lines in the rear and to the rear of my X. i ordered the rubber lines. what i would like to know is the part number for the steel axle tube line and the line that runs the from from front to back.. I don't know if it matters but when i looked up the left caliper line I had to get it for to 12/20/99...
View 12 Repliesquestion to the smart people out here in prius land. Plug in my scan tool and it shows the mileage as 4219 mile but yet the dash in the car show 4334 miles why would they both not be the same.
View 12 RepliesNothing is happening when I plug in my scan tool that I've used a million times before. I'm assuming it's a fuse but nothing listed on the fuse panel. Checked a few vague ones with no luck.
View 5 Replies2001.5 1.8t, I have this p0343 code when I used the scan tool at murrays or oreileys whatever the h they are now (it means something like cam angle sensor high input). The t-belt was due for service a while ago , am I looking at a sensor problem or a wiring problem or a timing/engine problem? How should I check and where? I hear the timing belt can be a pain on the 1.8s, I have done a mk4 trans and a bit of other stuff but I do have a lot going on right at the moment and I'm not sure if I have time. I have a feeling if I take it in for service they will probably find blow through from the turbo and pull the engine because of "sludge".
View 2 RepliesCar in question is a 2003 Camry XLE I4. On rare occasion when I try to start up the car, it would crank but doesn't start. Sometimes two or three hours later and it would start right up with no problem. This has been going on for months now.
Well today the car all of a sudden died on the freeway. It was running like usually and next thing I know, it just died. In all cases no check engine light pops up at all. I got it towed back to the shop and the mechanic tried to hook up a scan tool but it couldn't connect to the ECU. Also when the key is turn over to the "on" position before starting, no CEL pops up at all. All fuses and relays are good.
ETA : It turns out the wiring under the fuse box was bad. The fuse box and wiring were either replace or repair. Since this is an intermittent problems, we will see if this is indeed the fix after a couple of months.
Have 1995 Honda Accord with apx. 231,000 miles and needs all new break lines under the car. Honda Dealer states 12 hours of labor at $100 per hour. Should I go elsewhere or sell the car for $600 to the parts guy at the dealership offering to buy it since I wont pay the cost at this point to fix the car? Gas lines are all fine underneath by the way - I asked them to look since they could go next I would assume.
View 6 RepliesIs it a do it yourself job to replace brake lines. Never done it before or even seen it done. Special tools required? Will the auto parts store know exactly what I need? Are these questions answering my question?(don't do it) ...
View 14 RepliesI've got the front of the excursion done with my spring swap finally and now it's onto the rear. How do I move these ac lines along the passenger side to get them out of the way from that shackle bolt? I see the brackets holding them but since they are all hard lines how many do I have to remove?
View 3 RepliesI believe my rear AC lines in my 2003 EB V10 X pooped the bed on me today and Ford wants 3K to fix. I'm wondering if I could fix it my self. The leak was a bright green color so I'm assuming it was 134 or what ever in in the AC. The leak is right behind the passenger side of the motor just a little lower than the head. The dealer wants to replace almost everything for 3k but they don't want to budge on just repairing the broken line.
View 9 RepliesAc is leaking where the 2 lines go into the condenser. I went to Ford and bought OEM o-rings thinking it would be an easy fix. HA! New o-rings were put in by a mom and pop garage. Still leaking. Guy said it wasn't, but with my uv light I could clearly see the dye. Went to a recommended guy. He took it apart, cleaned the hoses where the o-rings sit. They were kinda dirty from leakage and stuff so he cleaned them up with a wire brush and 2000 grit.
Recharged, and we both looked with his huge uv light. Bad condenser, drivers side lit up like a night light. Replaced the condenser with an aftermarket condenser. Recharged, STILL LEAKING from where the hoses go into the condenser. Vacuumed down the system... Removed hoses, checked o-ring fit. They are snug on the hoses and have some resistance when plunging the hoses back in. What gives? I'm 360.00 into this this week...
I'm 1/2 way through a flush and water pump replacement. Its going to get cold and I don't want to blow any heater lines. I have the pump off and the block drained (I also managed to get some coolant into the block - but not the rear heat).
I don't see an easy place at the front to disconnect the lines. I'd like to blow them out just to be safe. What is the best place to disco in the front or if I even need to - can I just disco 1 in the rear and then blow in both direction?
I fear that there may be some vent door closed that will prevent flow. I can't start the truck - I can turn the key on.
I bought a 2002 Limited EX, 164K on a 7.3 diesel, its been a California truck its whole life, but still has some "rust" on it... I'm sure it can mostly be wiped away with a rag and some solvent . I mostly bought this vehicle to tow my track car around (1993 Mazda RX7) and so my friends can be comfortable while I drag them all over to be my pit crew - the rear captains chairs are a sweet feature.
Unfortunately this is the only picture I have right now... At the pump...
First things to address were the EBPS and EBPS tube, replaced those today... And the HPOP is leaking a bit from one of the lines I think, I ordered some gaskets and whatnot from Riffraff and will address that next weekend.
Noticed Tranny Fluid under the Ex last week and after further inspection, it is definitely the lines rusted, by the end of the week it was leaking pretty good with the motor running. Picked up the lines from Ford and bought a 5 gal pail of MerconV from NAPA. Going to replace the tranny fluid after I replace the lines. 109k on the truck and never serviced the trans. Never had an issue with this truck, shifts nice and tight. Found Mark W's Fluid Changing procedure which looks pretty simple.
View 4 Repliesseem to be losing brake fluid from the area of the ABS system and it dripping down on the brake lines underneath. Noticed this when draining excess oil from the engine (dealers!!!!). I'm thinking this has been leaking a long time. I have the worst luck finding a reputable mechanic anymore and if I can't trust a dealer...
View 9 RepliesSo, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
On my 1996 explorer it has 2 brake lines that come out of the master cyl, then they go into the anti lock, then 3 lines come out of the anti lock. We replaced some bad brake and now have those 3 that come out of the anti lock mixed up. Which one of those 3 goes to the back?
View 6 RepliesBlew a hole in the 3/16 inch line to the rear on the left frame rail, behind the gas tank. Lost all brake function.
Got the truck home and inspected. The line was rusted bad about 6 ft long from the connection at the rear hose to the axle, up to the rear seat area ( crew cab). From the drivers seat forward, the line looks very good. The line across the rear axle from left to right looks very good. I bought two 50 inch standard lines 3/16 inch. Started at the rear hose connection 6 inches behind the gas tank and ran forward to the rear seat area.
Cut about 32 inches of the other 51 inch line and connected and ran forward to below the front seat area. There is a metric connector at this point. I cut an inch in front of it to eliminate it. NAPA sells a high psi compression fitting ( steel , 10,000#) that you can connect two 3/16 inch lines together. I did that under the drivers foot area. I have done two different 2002 F150s in the last year due to this failure. Something to look into. Not nice to loose brakes in traffic.
If your worried about the steel compression fitting, don't. I have used these on several cars and trucks over the last 15 years. Make sure you get the STEEL high pressure compression fitting. Total line replaced on CREW cab, 51 + 32 inches. Pops right back into the original plastic clamps.... I might mention, that is where the failure was, under the plastic clamp at the rear end of the gas tank area.......... crud must collect on the clamp.
I have a 1999 Ford F-150 4X4 w/4.6L V8 W code, I recently lost all brakes. The primary line from Master Cylinder to ABS Pump rusted out completely. Replaced them but the other lines from ABS Pump to wheels are looking real bad. So I need to replace them, however I have no idea what the routing system looks like. Looking for a 97-03 F-150 Brake Line Diagram? I live at the jersey shore... so yeah rust is extremely common.... unfortunately.Also, where to get line assemblies?
View 7 RepliesIs there a good way to bend brake lines without a bender? I have two brake lines to bend that are probably no longer then 3 feet and don't want to buy a bender.
View 6 RepliesI am having trouble big time getting air out of my brake lines. I put new front pads and rotors on and also had to replace the brake line coming from the caliper as it kind of crumbled and needed to replace the next line up that goes to the ABS block on the left front. After doing this, I bled that wheel only and at first it was ok until the brake line on the right front at the caliper also broke when I was pushing on the brake pedal with the truck running, spewing fluid all over. I have tried to bleed using a decent vacuum bleed setup from Advanced Auto but keep getting massive amounts of air coming out and when I start the truck and hit the brake pedal, it goes to the floor. Could the master cylinder be bad? I have checked every connection that I made and all other connections and there are no leaks at all. I am stuck in the garage! The truck is a 1999 F150 4x4 with 4 wheel ABS.
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