Ford - Escort :: Electrical System Suddenly Shut Down While Reversing
Sep 2, 2014
98 Ford Escort (150k miles) died suddenly when I was going in reverse (parking) after a 100minute trip between 7 and 9 am. The entire electrical shut down after going about 30 ft in reverse.I checked all the fuses and they look OK. The alternator has about 2 years on it. The battery is used up but still works in warm climates.
Now, when i turn the ignition, no diagnostic lights turn on inside. I can only get it to do a warning audio beep on the first section turn of the ignition (warning that door is open). Electrical door locking makes a trying sound but no action. The headlights turn on when i flash the high beams.
This is a very tough problem because it's electrical. This car has had no mechanical issues and I take care of it, even driving no more than 65mph and avoiding day driving (due to heat). What could it possibly be? I have never even imagined a problem like this.
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I have a 1996 F250 460CI that was running great for years and all of a sudden it shut off for a few seconds when I was on the expressway. It was like turning the ignition key off and turning it back on. It did it several times and eventually just died and would not start. I put a new coil on and it worked fine for about 150 miles and now it started doing the same thing again. The check engine light was on for a few seconds but not all the time so I am not sure if diagnostic equipment will show any error messages. Mileage on my truck is 92k. Does this sound like a distributor pickup issue?
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I own a 1998 Dodge Stratus (ES Sedan 4D, 2.4 liter, automatic) and driving to a restaurant on Friday I ran over a rather nasty pothole. It had once had a metal plate over it, but it was 3/4 of the way uncovered and I hit so hard that the front of the car bottomed out hard on the pavement. I made sure I hadn't popped a tire and was on my way. Later that evening I got back in the car to go home and the battery had died suddenly. I knew I had not left any lights/systems on in the car. I got a jump and the car made it home, clicking, with lights flickering and gauge needles wobbling the whole way.
I left it for the weekend, and tried to assess the situation further after work on Monday. The battery in the Stratus is located under the driver's side wheel well, so I removed the cover to check if there were any loose wires/connections and there weren't. I got the car jumped and made it to an Advance Auto Parts to have the battery tested (again with clicking, flickering lights/gauges). Right before I got there, the battery light in the dash turned on.
The battery was tested almost completely dead, and it took about 30 minutes to get to the AAP from my house. It wouldn't jump again, so I had to get AAA to tow it back to my house (It took the AAA guy about 5 tries to jump it using his tow truck's battery, and it lasted long enough to drive it up onto the truck bed).
I didn't want to buy a new battery, in case there was something wrong with the alternator and the new battery would just get sucked dry like the old one. What might have happened. It seems strange that a battery would just die so suddenly with no warning and I don't want to get ripped off at a mechanic because I have no idea what might have happened (I don't know much about cars except for really basic stuff.)
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Recently, the cars electrical system shut down. The central locking system, the windows, seat adjustments, interior lights and the radio quit operating. The A/C, outside mirrors, driving lights & ignition remained operative.
Removing the electrical modules in the engine compartment & re-seating them reset the system. Then the same issue recurred. Re-seating the modules did not resolve this the second time. Only when the modules under the rear seat were removed and re-installed did the systems start again. Which module is defective?
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I have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
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95 Ford Escort shuts down like you turn off the key. This just started happening with no warning. Idles fine had to replace the plugs,wires and the dist.pack.
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Once again back to the ol' 92 GMC C1500 V6. Had my Ford Escort air assembly disassembled to clean something and received an emergency phone call, the truck seems to start just fine so I took it to get where I needed to go. Ran fine no issues even took it on the highway, ran just like she used to. On the way back I stopped at a gas station, when I went to start it she wouldn't start (towed it home again).
Checked ignition system and it was fine, removed the top of air filter housing and filter and looked down into the fuel injection system and had a person crank the engine and once again no fuel was squirting out. Took out the injectors and they both tested good and the same, 1.7 ohms each, going out to rent noid light again but doubting it will do any good to test again but who knows at this point.
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I have a 2006 Ford Expedition that runs perfectly with one exception, It will shut off all of a sudden. I can be driving down the highway or in town and all of a sudden it will just stop running. This has happened twice in the past six months. So far I have been able to get to the side of the road safely.the vehicle will immediately start and run perfectly as if nothing has happened. No error codes.
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On Monday, I was driving my 03 Ford Taurus. I had my cruise set at 57mph, all the sudden I started slowing down. I pushed the gas to the floor to try speeding up, but I kept slowing down. The car never shut off. I still had all of the electronics and the motor was still running, had my power steering as well. I pulled over and shut the car off. I started it back up and continued down the road and it happened again. Same thing, slowed down and pressing the gas and no speed. This happened 5 times within 65 miles. I got to my destination and was there for about 15 minutes, when I made the return trip. On my way home, I didn't experience this issue at all. What the cause may be?
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1997 F150 4x4 4.6. Truck was running fine ...suddenly shut down & now no spark, no fuel pump run, no start
1. Shot ether -no start
2. pulled plug - no spark
3. Checked crank sensor - reading .5 - .6
4. Checked fuel inertia switch - seems good
5. Switched fuel relays - no change
Thinking ECM/PCM. Also.. ?? will the "no spark" condition create a "no fuel pump run" condition ? or visa versa? I'm not positive about the reading from the crank sensor... it stays solid at .5... should it move up & down or remain constant ?
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It just doesn't end lately. I've noticed over the last several months, when it rains and I start the engine I would hear an underhood squealing noise. Like a belt or pulley. After the engine warmed up a bit, and the engine bay dried out, the squeal would go away. After a rain about a month back, I opened the hood to listen but wasn't able to locate the exact source of the squeal. Never gave it any more thought.....until this evening. I was driving in our New England Nor'easter in 4 whl drive mode with the wipers on HI, the defroster and blower on HI, and the headlamps and dash lights illuminated, when suddenly the dash lights dimmed about 40%, the blower slowed down about the same, and the wiper speed dropped as well from HI to about low speed. This was shortly followed by an underhood squeal which sounded a lot like the one I've experienced recently. After about 20 secs, the squeal would disappear and the power would quickly return to all accessories! This happened about 4 or 5 times and I returned home and parked it as I did not want to be stranded during the blizzard with a dead truck. The battery voltage gauge needle on the dash never seemed to move so I'm a bit stumped.
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Ok after rebuilding trans and being down a couple of weeks, I went on my 1st run since completing. Noticed when I started truck this morning it didn't turn over as fast as it was. 30 miles down the road Airbag Light comes on, and then volt meter dropped to 8 volts. Got stopped with truck still idling checked everything I had the tools to do so for. Decided to get back to my shop where I had tools, and 5 more miles and 55 mph truck just shuts off. Lost all power, truck would only click. Put my booster box on battery and gauges went back to normal but still wouldn't turn over but maybe once? Only place within a mile of my location was Walmart. Bought 2 new group 65 batteries, installed them and Shazam cranked right up no more problems. Short of the story bad batteries that checked Good with a load tester don't mean squat!
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I bought a 84 ranger 2.0 that ran when parked sat for six months. Cranks all day long but only sparks when you shut the key off. Replaced the ignition switch (by key) ( someone told me there is another ignition switch under the dash?? is this true?) Tested the icm and it passed all wires seem to be fine. I am just wondering if something in the dizzy could cause this or possibly the starter solenoid?
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My 1988 Mustang 5.0 GT has stalled out once last year and again recently. Same situation. I drove it for 300 miles with stops about every hour and a half. Pushed to to 90 MPH at times. Ran fine other times on the road for more than two hours. But all of a sudden the engine dies. Electrical all works but won't turn over. If I sit in it for about 10 minutes, it will start and run for the next 5 to 10 minutes than a cough or two and pull over. I have had new plugs put in and also replaced the whole distributor. Ford mechanics have stared at it and scratched their heads and say it is running fine when they hand it back to me.
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I have a ford ranger 1996 4 cylinder. The truck was driving fine then all of the sudden it shut off and wouldn't start... I checked spark and that is fine also changed fuel pump and made no difference. We also sprayed lighter fluid and that did nothing. It sounds like it wants to start but wont.
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I have a 06 f350. Out of the blue my wipers will not shut off without pulling the 30 amp fuse in engine compartment . Even with ignition off.
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1997 Ford Expedition 4x4
When I push the switch for the drivers window I can hear the relay in the fuse block make a click but window doesn't move. If I push the switch for any other window (on the drivers door or any other door) no click at the relay and no window movement. I've swapped the relay with other relays in the fuse block but nothing changed.
I've tested the driver side window motor by running 12 volts directly and the motor works fine. When I press the PDL switch I hear a buzzing sound coming from the passenger floor area behind the glove box but the locks do not go up or down. I started the truck and when I put it in gear I can hear the PW relay in the fuse block clicking repeatedly. Put the truck in Park & the clicking stops.
I was told (on another forum) that the problem is most likely my GEM module. Bought a used 1 on eBay and installed it today but nothing changed.
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I installed LED tail lights a few months ago, now all of a sudden the passenger side does not light for brakes or turn signals. The lights came with resistors that I put in when installing and the adhesive wore out and they were dangling in the truck frame. The wires connecting the resistors to the light were damaged. I taped the exposed wires and secured them a with a heavier tape, but taping did not work. I also tried switching the resistor packs with the driver side to see if it was them that have an open winding, but they are still operable.
I narrowed it down to wiring between the trailer hook up and passenger light assembly in the electrical circuit. I plugged an LED light bar into the trailer connection and the same problem occurred (running lights come on, but no turn signal or brake light). Where could there be a short? Or is this circuit fused somewhere that the running lights come on but a separate fused circuit triggers the higher voltage for LEDs.
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I recently purchased a 2000 f250 with a 7.3. I'm new to diesel motors and new to super dutys so
Problem; had been driving for an hr and truck, which was running fine shut off like someone turned the fuel off. Check engine light came on, motor cranked but wouldn't start Back up. After an hr or so it fired back up and ran fine. This happened several times until now it will not start on it's own. I use a quick shot of starting fluid it fires right up and runs fine. Have run the truck for 1/2hr or so driving it and no issues except check engine light staying on. Shut it off and it will not start again without starting fluid, which I've only used 2x and sparingly. Generic code reader says no codes.
Is it vapor lock? Under valve cover plugs connection?
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While driving along my Expedition will completely shut down, ignition, all accessories, everything, for a few seconds then come back alive. It happens generally up hills or around right turns.
It is like the main ground strap is loose and losing contact momentarily. I don't know where to look for this. Engine was replaced 1500 miles ago. Battery and all visible connections seem ok.
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I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
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