Ford - Escort :: All Seems Fine, Truck Died Suddenly
Aug 24, 2013
Once again back to the ol' 92 GMC C1500 V6. Had my Ford Escort air assembly disassembled to clean something and received an emergency phone call, the truck seems to start just fine so I took it to get where I needed to go. Ran fine no issues even took it on the highway, ran just like she used to. On the way back I stopped at a gas station, when I went to start it she wouldn't start (towed it home again).
Checked ignition system and it was fine, removed the top of air filter housing and filter and looked down into the fuel injection system and had a person crank the engine and once again no fuel was squirting out. Took out the injectors and they both tested good and the same, 1.7 ohms each, going out to rent noid light again but doubting it will do any good to test again but who knows at this point.
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Ford Ranger 20012.5LManual Transmission4 Cylinder Engine4x2 Drivetrain~160K Miles
While driving home tonight, my truck suddenly lost power, as if I turned the key to turn off the motor. There was a beep, the one that goes off whenever I open the door while the key is in or the light is on, then the "Check Gauge" light came on (the one that warns me when my gas tank is near empty), following that the yellow Battery light came on and finally the orange "Check Engine" light came on.
I pulled out into an empty dirt lot, but that was pretty difficult as the power steering was gone (since the truck was off). After parking the truck, I turned the key to the actual "Off" position, pulled the key out and gave the truck a few moments. I put the key back in and tried to get my truck running again. Of course, it didn't work, but I figured it wasn't the battery because it lacked the sputtering motor turn. There's that and the battery is under two years old. The truck seemed like it really wanted to turn and start, but it lacked a certain something to get it up and over that last hill to vehicular movement. I don't think I was lacking gas, since it should have given me the red "Check Gauge" light and even if I was, I know I have another 5 miles before I have to fuel up (I would know since I've tested it to see how far it would go on that light). I was pretty low on gas when this happened, so the thought came to me that maybe my gauge was starting to get a bit wonky. Then a more realistic thought came to mind.
I've had this bad habit for a while, where I fill my gas tank to only about a quarter or a half at the most. Part of it stems from a paranoia of having somebody siphon gas out of my truck at night; yes, I could have fixed this by installing a lock on the gas cap (albeit, my counter-argument is that it's better to have them take the little bit of gas than have hundreds of dollars of body damage from an aggressive thief). Anyway, I've heard that this habit of filling the tank below half can speed up fuel pump failures. Despite this, I've had no other symptoms of a fuel pump failure coming, as I haven't experienced any issues with surging/bucking.
So here are my questions:
1) Am I right in assuming it's a fuel pump failure?
2) Are these instructions to fuel pump replacement accurate? (Yes, I know the DIY Matrix provides every reason on why I should avoid doing this myself, but my wallet I'm itching for a project.
3) If it's not a fuel pump failure, what could it be?
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2000 Silverado ... 5.3 ... 260k miles ...
A while back the truck died on me driving down the road. It just stumbled a few times and then shut off. Acted like it was out of fuel. Drug it home and still would not start. Put fuel pressure gauge on, 0 fuel pressure. Bled gauge then cycled key to prime pump. Gauge read 40 psi, low but its something. Try to start truck and it fires right up. Assuming fuel pump is bad I go ahead and change the pump. All is good ~50 psi of fuel pressure.
Fast forward about 6 months and 10k miles to today. Same symptoms. Shuts off going down the road. Will not restart. Figure i would see if there is fuel pressure before I bother dragging it home again so I open the schrader valve with a small screwdriver and get a trickle of gas and a pssst. Try to restart truck, fires right up and drove it home. When I got home I put a FP gauge on it and fuel pressure is good. Ran fine all the way home.
Truck gives no codes/ warning lights. It does occasionally buck a little when trying to accelerate at low RPMs. (for example when in overdrive at ~45-50 and try to accelerate it will buck slightly) It's been doing that for years so I'm not sure if its related. Otherwise it runs good.
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I have a 1999 ford escort 4 door sedan, when the car is cold I can get it to start and it will run just fine, after it starts to warm up, it starts to make a misfire/ sputtering noise when it is starting to die when idling. when I am driving it, there are no signs it is going to die.
I took it to the ford dealership today and they said that I need to replace the fuel pump, and the relay control module.
I just replaced the fuel pump a week ago because I thought that was the problem. So I am thinking it is the Relay Control Module- only problem is I don't know where it is located, where it is?
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95 Ford Escort shuts down like you turn off the key. This just started happening with no warning. Idles fine had to replace the plugs,wires and the dist.pack.
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I have a 1999 Ford Escort SE wagon with 112k miles on it. Last week when leaving work my car started very rough. This was unusual so I killed and restarted the car about three times before letting it run it's course (~30 seconds), after which the car ran fine. About a week later on my way to work the car seemed to 'sputter' (for lack of a better word) when I pushed down on the petal looking for some power on two separate occasions. On each side of the sputters the car seemed to respond fine, but when it did sputter there was a severe lack of power. I got to and from work just fine, but while letting the car idle in the parking spot of my apartment for a minute before shutting off the engine the check engine light finally came on. The following morning the car again started rough (as if it were misfiring/running on 3 of 4 cylinders) and this time it took a good minute before smoothing out. However, after the car smoothed out I experienced no issues on the way to work, no sputtering, no loss of power, nothing. Doing some initial online research I feel that the problem may be one (or more) of the following:
-Fuel pump
-Vacuum lines
-O2 Sensor
-Spark plugs (they are original)
-Fuel Filter (it is actually past due for replacement)
I plan on getting this checked out ASAP, but that still may be 2ish weeks away with my schedule. Some similar reports say that I may be having a 'lean mixture' issue (not getting enough fuel), but I haven't had the time to check the code. My question is, how "safe" is it to continue driving my car with the current situation? Is it at a super high risk of failure/random stalling during rush hour? Will it cause any damage to the engine if there is a cylinder misfire upon start up? I was also wondering if the car would be reasonably reliable to drive on a ~400 mile road trip on an upcoming weekend, but I am making plans as if it is not.
Additional Details:-Tried charging the fuel lines (car to 'ON' then 'OFF' position 3-4 times), had no effect on the morning start-up-Commute to/from work is about 20 miles
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98 Ford Escort (150k miles) died suddenly when I was going in reverse (parking) after a 100minute trip between 7 and 9 am. The entire electrical shut down after going about 30 ft in reverse.I checked all the fuses and they look OK. The alternator has about 2 years on it. The battery is used up but still works in warm climates.
Now, when i turn the ignition, no diagnostic lights turn on inside. I can only get it to do a warning audio beep on the first section turn of the ignition (warning that door is open). Electrical door locking makes a trying sound but no action. The headlights turn on when i flash the high beams.
This is a very tough problem because it's electrical. This car has had no mechanical issues and I take care of it, even driving no more than 65mph and avoiding day driving (due to heat). What could it possibly be? I have never even imagined a problem like this.
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Started Ex yesterday morn for a couple minutes then all of a sudden radio went dead along with fuel gauge and digital odometer. I shut down then re-fired and all worked again.
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Factory fog lights worked fine, had body off for the head studs recently, they worked fine after. One day they just don't work. Fog light indicator light still comes on. Fuse is good. High beam indicator still works. Where to troubleshoot next?
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2002 F-250 SD V10 Auto Trans 140K miles.....
Engine ran fine until battery died. Vehicle then sat from Nov to May with no battery in it. On start up now after install of new battery, engine initially surged at idle and seemed to miss (run rough) in gear/under load. No CEL or codes. After a single short drive idle and running under load seemed to have improved a bit, but not yet back to what I would call normal.
QUESTIONS:
Is this simply a matter of the computer having to relearn after battery disconnect?
Will driving restore things back to where they were/should be?
How much driving/How far?
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Went out to start my truck this morning and it wouldn't start. Cranks fine and almost started once but died. Checked all fuses all my voltages are good. Oil and coolant are good. When I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump and sounds like it's priming correctly. Might be an issue with a clogged fuel filter? Maybe? Haven't had any problems or issues otherwise.
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Resealed HPOP, reinstalled, started right up, ran for good half hr, shut it down, started it next day, ran for 15 min. Revved it up, n all that, good to go, took it for a spin around block, died as pulling into driveway. At crank Dashcmd shows 200 psi on HPOP. I'm double checking the gear bolt right now. When I installed the pump I seated the gear by hand n torqued bolt to spec, so idk...
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So my truck sit for 7 months and went to start and it was cranking fine but all the sudden backlashes a little and now just clicks. I started pulling the glow plugs and have all out except 5 and 7 but still seems stuck I'm trying to pull those. No oil in de gas bottle and also was running a little rough when started but ran good when warmed up. Or am I doing the right thing by pulling the glow plugs before any other diagnosis
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My '93 Ford Ranger suddenly died while I was driving, no sputtering or bucking, it was just as though I had turned the key off. When i tried to restart, the engine would turn over but not engage. It's as though the engine is either getting no gas and/or spark. My shade-tree mechanic says he got a diagnostic code that was #539 followed by #1 seven times at two second intervals. he says he ran the test 6 times and got the same result every time. What this means?
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My 2001 2.5 manual suddenly died. The starter turns the engine over, but I don't get a) fuel (changed the fuel pump) b) spark c) Engine check light. When I plug the OBDII reader in, it simply says "ERROR". No codes, no other language.
While trying to figure it out this morning, after trying to start it 50 times, it actually fired for a few seconds, but then died again.
I checked relays and fuses and nothing seemed bad. I swapped relays around too.
I unplugged the battery, then the computer, but nothing got it to fire again.
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My Father in Law's 95 Ranger, 4 Cylinder, 5 Speed has started acting strange. It has, in the past 3 weeks just died suddenly, and won't restart. No action at all when you turn the key, as if the battery is disconnected. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour, and it starts back up again.
He has had it to a local shop twice, and the only thing they have done is let it idle for 5 hours at the shop. Of course, it never stopped.
Now they are saying it is the clutch, and depending on the type of clutch, (big or small).
I've been working on cars most of my life, and even had an 87 Ranger, and I've gotta call BS on this. He says it happens mostly when coming to a stop.
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I am a cummins owner who just got a 2002 7.3 last week. It drove great for 200 miles then suddenly died last night going 60 mph. It sat overnight then started up and drove 10 miles then died again. I changed the cps and still no start. I changed the oil and let it sit overnight and it started this morning and idled for 5 minutes then died again. I have tried unplugging the ipc and still same no start situation. I plan to check the hpop level today to verify it is full. I also checked the nut on the ipr and it's electrical connection.
I am just a shade tree at best and would love some direction on where to look. I don't have any scan equipment to check pressures. Am I correct in thinking it is a bad ipr?
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I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
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I jump started my wife's mini Cooper using my aerostar van 3.0l cargo. Her battery was so dead we had no luck after running my van for 8-10 min. There were a couple of attempts. My van suddenly died when she wasn't cranking the mini. It won't restart.
About one week prior I had a no start situation. I thought I had solved the problem. The first thing I did was listen for fuel pump engagement. I didn't hear it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and cleaned the connections. I put it back and the van started. I drove all week and then I get the call to jump start the mini.
So back to today. Fuel pump is engaging. I checked for spark at #4 cylinder with fuel relay disconnected so as not to flood the engine. I have spark. Battery is strong. I put a new fuel pump relay in place even though it appeared to be working properly. I had my wife crank the engine and the pink/blue wire at the fuel pump relay which goes to the pump lit up my voltage tester. Power appears to be present when cranking and not just initial engagement.
I'm thinking the original no start had nothing to do with the wire connections which I cleaned and it was just coincidence that it started and ran again for a week. The connections are now clean with a new relay attached and not starting. I'm thinking if I have spark and a fuel pump engaging then injectors may not be firing???
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Last week, my 2005 FX4 Screw died suddenly, and would immediately lose all power to the gauges as soon as the jump leads were disconnected, not to mention the engine would eventually die shortly after that. After a bit of logical thinking, a buddy and I determined that it was likely the alternator, so we pulled it and replaced it. We also had the alternator tested, and it failed every single test, so it was pretty clearly the culprit. The good news is that the truck starts and runs/stays running again. The bad news is that my audio and 4x4 systems are both offline.
As far as audio goes, I'm guessing it's an easy fix because it's probably a fuse somewhere that got toasted. But the 4x4 is a little more of a problem. I tested the vacuum lines by pulling them from the hubs, and neither had any suction. Okay, the solenoid isn't getting power, probably another fried fuse, right? Well, here's where I'm getting confused.
My understanding of this 4wd system is that it works like this: When in 2wd, the solenoid engages the vacuum and pulls the part of the hub that locks in the wheels (not sure what specifically to call it) out, therefore disengaging the front 2 wheels. When 4wd is turned on, the vacuum disengages and that part of the hub pops into place, locking out the front wheels into 4wd.
So, by that rationale, if the 4wd solenoid isn't working due to an electrical issue, then my truck should automatically just be locking itself into 4wd, right? Because without the vacuum to disengage that part of the hub, it should just pop into place and keep the truck locked into 4wd. So if I'm correct in my understanding, then I have another problem because my truck is still operating very much in 2wd.
I did the classic 4wd tests: tight circle to feel the front end gripping/pulling, gun it from a dead stop to see if all 4 tires engaged. But I turned in a much tighter circle than 4wd would ever allow, didn't feel the front end grip/pull at all, and the "peel out" test only showed my 2 rear tires as launching me forward. I also tried shifting into 4-Low, but the truck never shifted into low gear either. -I know that's probably just electrical, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my testing/explanation.
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I have a cherokee that has never given me any problems...at all, ever. The car started fine drove down the street and died like it had run out of gas. Immediately the voltage gauge read about 10 volts. the car would not start or jump start. took the battery out that night and at oreilly the battery was good, just slightly discharged. was towed to a shop. they had it 2 days and felt there was no power getting to the fuel pump. Had it towed today to the nearest jeep dealer they said my crank position sensor wasn't working, but the car wouldn't start. then they said my neutral safety switch was also bad. switched it out and it starts. all in all they want almost $500 to fix the car. i can't believe both those parts went bad at exactly the same time. Is this possible?
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