Ford - Escort :: 1999 - Vibration When Power Applied
Nov 30, 2012
I have a 99 escort zx2 with an A/T. I just recently redid the whole front end. Installed new struts, springs, mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends (inner and outer) wheel bearings and CV shafts. Got it aligned after all that work and now I have a vibration whenever I apply power, whether its upon acceleration or when I'm going up a hill. The vibration frequency increases with speed and feels more like a frame vibration than a steering vibration. Does not make any difference on turning or not. After I noticed the vibration I put my winter wheels on thinking maybe it was a misbalanced wheel but no change. And here is the kicker, if I jack the car up the vibration will go away for about 45 mins of driving time before it starts to fade back in. Checked all of my bolts for tightness and changed the CV shafts again. brought it to another shop who could not find the source. They double checked the alignment and its straight as can be. Could it possibly be a bad strut? I installed Monroe sensa-trac with all Monroe associated mounts and hardware.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0L that's making a vibration noise when I come to a stoplight with my foot on the brake, just idling. I just recently replaced the front brake pads this past weekend. I looked under the hood and visually checked for any obvious things that could be making the noise and did not find any, I did notice my power steering pump is damp with fluid. Now this noise only occurs when my foot is on the brake, anytime my foot is off the brake, it goes away.
I checked brake fluid level and power steering pump fluid level, both are fine except power steering fluid looks like chocolate milk. I don't know if the power steering pump would be the cause of this, but I'm going to replace it because it's leaking and I'm guessing the fluid for the power steering is way overdue. I've only owned this truck since March of this year and it has 128,000 miles on it. Hopefully this video link to youtube works, the sound in the video is the same noise that I'm hearing from the truck. Where this noise is coming from.
Vibration noise powerstroke - YouTube....
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I have a '03 F350 that I can't seem to solve the brakes vibrating when applied. Replaced front rotors a couple weeks ago. I still have a vibration when I apply the brakes. What am I missing? I didn't replace the back rotors, but maybe I should have. On the passenger front, the inside pad was almost gone and the outside pad was in good shape. I greased the pins before I replaced the pads the last time, but the inside still wore much faster. I also blew out the rear brake line last week and spent Saturday bending a new line and replacing that so the brakes were bled when I had to replace that. I don't feel the pulsing in the pedal, but the truck shakes pretty good when I hit the brakes. What else should I be checking if the rotors are new and the pads are new and the pins have been lubed and the brakes have been bled?
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I have a 96 ford escort, 1.9. Recently I've noticed I get a pretty good vibration coming from the front end.
The vibration only occurs when I'm accelerating over 50. When I decelerate over 50 the vibration goes away.
What could be causing this?
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I have a 2012 FX4, 5.0. The dealer tuned the front rotors and replaced the pads at 19k because of a bad vibration when brakes were applied. Now at 45k, the same thing is starting to happen again. I am pretty sure it is not my driving because my 2001 F150 4x4 had 162,000 miles on it and never had a rotor off of it or turned and was on the 3rd set of pads when I traded it on the 2012.
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My dad gave me this car a year ago. In great shape however, we've had some issues with extreme vibrating. Motor mounts have been replaced, brakes and rotors are new, ball joints new, and tires still have good tread left. Vibration is so bad that the steering wheel shakes and so do the seats. It happens it park, neutral, and at stops. Its loud and very embarrassing.
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My F-250 7.3 liter diesel is eating up front tires. I have tried new upper and lower ball joints, new shocks, alignment, and new tires (again). Tire wear is on the outside right and inside left. At times when the brakes are applied it causes a shake and vibration. One mechanic though I should get the leaf springs redone.
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I have a 2003 GMC Yukon, 5.3 engine with 4x4, and with flex fuel option. The vehicle is making a vibration type sound. The sound is almost like a buzzing type sound. It's not overly loud and it's a low vibration buzz. This sound is not continuous, but occurs when the accelerator is applied. It will last for several seconds and then go away. This happens between the speed of 0-40 mph, but only when the accelerator is pressed. The vehicle will not make any vibration sounds when coasting. At speeds of 45+mph, there is no noise even when the accelerator is applied. I tried to pin point the sound, but it is very hard to locate. My best guess would be at the rear of vehicle. Maybe even where the fuel tank is located. This wouldn't be the fuel pump? I don't have any problems starting the vehicle or loss of power though.
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As outlined in this thread: [URL] .....
I had a recent misfire issue. Unfortunately the dealer has been unable to find the source. Since the original misfire I can feel the car vibrating when I am in drive or reverse and am stopped with the brake applied (ex - waiting at a stop light). It goes away when I drive and when I am in neutral. I realize there is SOME vibration noticeable in gear, possibly because of the way the engine is mounted. However, this seems different.
The tach stays at 750 rpm in idle (it may fluctuate a TINY bit but never goes over 800 at idle) as always. The vibration feels much like a vibration one would feel if a cell phone or pager were left on vibrate. This doesn't seem to be a rough idle where the car is "jittery" or "jerks", and, as mentioned, the rpm doesn't change.
I would think a bad coilpack or plug (plugs changed at 40K, Im now at 45k) would cause a misfire, and a CEL. I've looked into a throttle body cleaning and will do this, but I would think that would cause a rough idle as well. My understanding is that a MAF problem would be similar.
The only thing I can think of is a motor or tranny mount issue, but the car only has 45k miles and this problem was non existent until the misfire. Im almost certain it isn't related to having the car lowered recently.
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For a while my 2004 Hyundai SantaFe has a vibration that happens at highway speeds when the gas is applied. It tends to be less when the gas pedal is released. I have had the tires balanced, an alignment, and took it to the dealer to check the CV joints, struts and such but it still vibrated. The dealer said it was probably the tires. So, I took it back to the tire place and wound up getting a new set of tires. No luck - it still vibrates. I need to find out what else it could be.
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I bought a brand new 2010 Sonata in April 2010. So far I only have 2500 miles on it. The problems I am having are:
1. When I apply the brakes, there is some vibrating sounds coming...
2. The passenger side front tire does not hold air more than 25-26 psi.. If I raise it to 34 or even 32 psi, it drops down to 26 psi within a week and then stops leaking...
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As I'm cruising once I hit about 50mph I start getting a vibration in the peddles and floor board. It's not real bad but noticeable for sure. When I hit 70mph it's worse and the truck even sounds like it's vibrating. As soon as I let off the peddle and coast everything is golden.. Smooth.. So it seems to be a problem only under power..
A little back story : About a year ago I was getting bad vibration and loosing power. I put it in the shop and the mechanic said the filter or screen in the gas tank was clogged so he cleaned it. I went to Korea for a year so the truck sat in government storage for a year. When I got it back in March I put in back in the shop to have the front passenger side hub replaced.
I don't know if any of that has to do with the vibration I'm getting now.
Truck
2003 F250 ext cab
7.3l
179k miles
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I have a 1999 ford escort that is slow turning over and now does not turn over at all. I have replaced the battery, starter, alternator and neutral safety switch.
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My problem started five months ago and was very intermittent until now. The engine would run rough at start up either cold of hot and then run fine after about two or three miles. Now it runs rough all the time. I have installed a new ignition coil, new spark plug wires and new spark plugs. The engine starts ok but it runs rough and when I pull the spark plug wires one at a time,while it is running, the spark is very weak on cylinders 2 and 4. The spark on the other two cylinders looks good. I have checked the connector on the powertrain control module, which is a EEC-V, and there doesn't seem to be any bad connections there.
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I have a 1999 Ford Escort, five speed. Until recently, I have not had any issues with it, but its age is beginning to show.
This past week, I've noticed a rattling noise from under the hood when idling, such as at a stoplight. Once I start moving, I can no longer hear the noise, though it is possible the road noise is hiding it.
What this is? Is it serious, or just an old car making noise?
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I was driving my car today and it started driving like the brakes were on. It started to smell like rubber was burning. Before that I stopped at a traffic light and the car pulled to the left. Is the little car dying. 1999 ford escort zx2...
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I have a 97 escort that was running great after a lot of maintenance work and then on the freeway it started to loose power. I pulled it over and it died. It would not restart for about 15 mins then it did. Ran really rough, mad some noises, I got it home and now it won't restart at all. It is not the battery or starter. Is it possible a bad EGR valve could cause it to do this? About a month before this happened I replaced all plugs and wires, coil, fuel filter, battery, oil change and O2 sensor.
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99 escort 2.0 will not start. Has spark, fuel pressure, and 100 psi compression in each cylinder. After cranking for awhile , pull the plugs out and the plugs are wet with fuel. There is no answers anywhere on the net, but apparently there are others like this out there. No codes also.
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I've got a 99 Ford Escort Se 4 door sedan, Automatic trans with about 140k miles on it that randomly stalls when stopping at a red light. It is random and rare, but it does happen.
When it stalls, it sounds and feels like something is mechanically stopping the engine, like maybe it's not disconnecting from the automatic transmission. I can hear the engine working hard as the car slows down, it jumps around in the engine compartment a little bit, then dies as the car comes to a complete stop.
Then I start the car back up, everything is back to normal and I drive away with no further problems for the rest of the trip.
What can cause this? Does this car have a TCC clutch in the torque converter? Is it maybe randomly being falsely triggered to apply at low speed?
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So I turn the heat on, and my engine feels like it's going to stall out, the RPM's drop by 200. What could this be?
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My car, '99 ford escort,' engine light just came on when I started the car. I took it to autozone for one of those checks with the machine thingy. The code was PO171 bank 1 system 2 lead. The girl at autozone told me that I may need a oxygen sensor. What is a bank 1? What do I say when I go to the repair shop?
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