Ford - Escort :: 1998 - Hesitates And Stalls In Hot Weather And Under Load
Aug 26, 2011
This problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
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My 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
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When the outside air temp reaches above 70 degrees, my Blazer will die going down the road. It will not start for about five minutes, then starts up again. Also, I have took the overflow cap off, poured water in it, and it would start up fine. I don't know what is causing the problem, it runs great in fall/winter, but when it warms up, it starts doing this?
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I have a 1992 ford escort lx that I just got and it is a great car cheap on gas a great work car but the only thing is the av doesn't work. I can turn on the air to cool but when I turn on the ac my car stalls out. So my question : what the problem is?
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I have a 2003 Ford Escort ZX2. Recently, I've begun to notice issues with the RPM. When I'm not actually giving it gas, such as idling or coasting in neutral, I notice that one of four things start happening:
1) the car stalls outright,
2) the RPM drops from 1000 to around 500 and stays,
3) drops to 500ish then recovers after a few seconds, or
4) acts normal.
Which one is completely random. I am getting OBD codes p0171 and p0420, which points towards either oxygen sensors or the catalytic converter. However, I've been told that it might be the idle air control valve too. Which seems more/less likely? I don't have a lot of money to commit to repairs at the moment, so I am leery of playing trial and error.
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I've got a 99 Ford Escort Se 4 door sedan, Automatic trans with about 140k miles on it that randomly stalls when stopping at a red light. It is random and rare, but it does happen.
When it stalls, it sounds and feels like something is mechanically stopping the engine, like maybe it's not disconnecting from the automatic transmission. I can hear the engine working hard as the car slows down, it jumps around in the engine compartment a little bit, then dies as the car comes to a complete stop.
Then I start the car back up, everything is back to normal and I drive away with no further problems for the rest of the trip.
What can cause this? Does this car have a TCC clutch in the torque converter? Is it maybe randomly being falsely triggered to apply at low speed?
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I just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
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Alright I drive a 05 1.8t with 68k original miles.. nder a full load my car bogs and hesitates. also my turbo will stop spooling and my boost gauge will go from 10 pounds to about 4 and i will have to let go of the gas and push down again for my turbo to spool.. What this could be I can't figure it out..
Here is my car.....
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I have a 1998 Ford Escort ZX2, 2.0L DOHC. I recently had the check engine light come on with code that basically says my VCT solenoid is malfunctioning. It is not very easy to find information about this part, I see that it is expensive, and time consuming to replace. I don't really have the time or money, the car still runs with 120k.What kind of consequences would I run into if I decided not to replace the part. The only thing I can find is that I would not pass emissions.
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I recently replaced a bad head gasket on this car. After putting the reworked head back on the engine and putting everything back together, I can't get fuel to the engine. I cheated and took the intake manifold out and bolted it to the head and then set it back in the car plugging my injectors back into the manifold once in there. I checked all my electrical connections and they are all good. I am not getting power to the fuel pump, which was replaced a year ago when I first started tinkering with fixing the car. I get power to and from the inertia/fuel cut-off switch, but it doesn't appear to get to the fuel pump. I checked all the injectors to make sure they were seated properly which they were and all the fuses both under the dash and hood that I know about and then some. When I pull the 30amp fuse under the hood, and replace it, I do hear a sound that sounds like something is pressurizing or pumping for a second or to, but the sound is from under the hood and not from the pump/gas tank area.
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I have a 97 Escort and recently started having idle problems. It would go up and stay up until I turned off the engine. It would also idle so low that it would stall out when I would stop at a traffic light. A TPS sensor code also appeared. I changed the sensor, but the idling problem continued. During the process of changing the TSP I also cleaned the IAC valve. The car would start with no problems, it just continued to idle rough, with the code returning. I researched how to test the TPS, did the test and discovered I had installed a bad(new)TPS. I reinstalled a new TPS and now the car won't start. WOW, one problem to another. It will turn over, but it will not start.
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95 1.9L 5 speed. 142K Runs like a champ but over the last few colder mornings, low 40's high 30's, the starter is slow to get turning. This morning it was really slow, as I held the switch to the crank position for a good 10-15 seconds before it started. To the point that the dash lights dimmed, like a larger load was on the battery. Once it starts its fine. Later in the day it starts just like it should. Just wondering if I may have a starter about to go south on me.
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I just recently purchased a 1998 ford escort. the gas gauge constantly at half. I haven't driven it yet because my insurance kicks in in a few days.
I asked my friend about it and he said that some cars always gauge the amount of gas no matter if its running or not. Is my escort one of those cars? or is it just broken?
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I have a 1998 Ford Escort which I drove about 450 miles in frigid weather over about 8 hours in mid January. After arriving at my neighborhood and getting off the expressway, I couldn't get the idle on the car (manual transmission) to go below 2500rpm's. Further, upon taking off, the car was trying to stall, and I was forced to feather the clutch through town driving and keep the throttle up so it wouldn't stall, even with the clutch in. The weather at the time was about -7 degrees (f). The next day the weather continued, and thee car would start, jump to the same idle for 10 seconds, then drop suddenly to 500rpm, then stall out. I wrote the car off, cleaned it out over the next week, and then I tried to run the radio while doing so last weekend. I got the car to start, and run normally. I think it may be a computer issue, but it may also be the temperatures. The car has 207,000 miles on it.
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98 Ford Escort SE
Been having acceleration issues with the Escort for a while now. The repairs I've made on the vehicle so far are; new fuel pump, coil pack and mass air flow sensor cleaning. Those are in order.
Now onto the issue. From a dead stop and sometimes while driving my vehicle will give acceleration issues though mostly from a dead stop. Checked the tranny fluid and it was a light brown with bubbles(?) so thought I'd do a fluid change but with the work required wanted some input before ripping into it.
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1998 Ford Escort SE ... On idle ( at a red light or in park while on) it shakes terribly. When I shift into N it will lessen for 3-10 seconds, but then it will cycle back to the vibrating. The spark plugs were replaced about 4 months ago and got a brand new transmission 5 years ago this coming summer. It came into the family in '00 and I got it when I turned 16. The vibration started about 2 years ago and at first I was told "little car has shaky engine". When it got worse I was told it was the motor mounts, which I replaced a year ago. When they were first put in the car ran smooth as ever.
My mother turned on the AC while I was taking her for a test ride that same day and it started back shaking. They said the motor mounts were perfectly in place, and that it was a broken fan blade. My husband and I just don't see a fan blade causing that much shaking. I can hear the car violently vibrating when I park and take pizza to someone's door. Also a more minor problem, ever since we put new brakes on, my brake light comes on too easy. The weight of the peddle will turn the light on, and I have to keep using my foot to pull it up after each time I touch it, and sometimes when I'm driving.
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98 Ford Escort SE... Was changing out fuel filter and noticed the bottom (filter sets upright) snap holder the broke. Would I be ok with just cutting off some of the metal line and adding flex/rubber and using clamps?
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I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
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Iv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
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We have a 2009 S60 2.5T that has trouble starting in temps around 25 degrees and below. It skips/hesitates when cranking.
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So my 99 2.5 rcsb has been stalling out under loads, particularly when the A/C is on. It's stalled when warm, cold, engaging Drive or Reverse, and it steering does it at least once a day. There's a missing elbow to a vacuum line at the driver side (looks RABS related). The truck had the CAT melt off and now it's laying in my bed with the O2 sensor, don't know if that relates.
This truck sees 100 miles a day through the mountains, 5-7 days a week. It only has 140,000 miles on it, I put 40,000 on it in the last year with no issues. The truck is very much showing age (needs almost everything), but I'd like to keep the basics going.
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