Ford - Escort :: 1998 - Getting Bad Acceleration From Dead Stop Mostly?
Aug 30, 2013
98 Ford Escort SE
Been having acceleration issues with the Escort for a while now. The repairs I've made on the vehicle so far are; new fuel pump, coil pack and mass air flow sensor cleaning. Those are in order.
Now onto the issue. From a dead stop and sometimes while driving my vehicle will give acceleration issues though mostly from a dead stop. Checked the tranny fluid and it was a light brown with bubbles(?) so thought I'd do a fluid change but with the work required wanted some input before ripping into it.
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I was just curious what the best way to increase initial acceleration from a dead stop is for a 2009 F- 150 XLT with a 5.4 V-8.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. My truck has developed a "clunk" for lack of a better term when accelerating from a dead stop. It is not a shudder as it only happens once within a few seconds of depressing the accelerator and then goes away until the next time I stop moving.
It feels like either something in the drivetrain is not engaging right away, or something is releasing, like a stuck caliper or something. From the way it feels and what I've read so far about the TC/Trans, I'm assuming it is something worn in the drive-shaft/rear diff.
But it needs brakes badly (already have all new rotors & pads ready to install) so maybe a caliper is sticking when depressed and then popping loose under initial acceleration? I think this is unlikely but possible.
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Wonder if its dry driveshaft slip splines? Only happens when leaving a dead stop under hard acceleration. Hard to describe sound, but seems to be coming from behind me, almost sounds like 2 broken pieces of steel snapping past each other. frame is o.k., leaf springs are o.k. , doesn't do it when shifting between gears or if I gently take off from a stop. I don't think there's a grease fitting for the driveshaft where the splines are (where the 2 piece shaft takes up slack for being loaded or unloaded) may have to take that apart once the weather breaks and see what i find. my 1st ranger never had this issue after 200K miles. this truck is now at 145K but its almost 20 years old. I've read somewhere before about pulling the shaft apart & greasing the splines up. does this sound like a possibility for whats happening? not sure what else it could be.
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I have a 98 Audi A6. Immediately when I hit the accelerator from a dead stop I hear a slight bang that seems to come from under the car in the area under the front drivers seat. It only happens when I hit the gas and the car starts forward. I'm not putting the pedal to the floor either, just a nice gradually start from a dead stop. This is the only time that I hear this noise, nothing while driving or making turns. The noise sounds like when you might squeeze and empty tin box! that distinct bang you hear. What might this be?
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Slight clunk feeling from dead stop under more aggressive acceleration...my 14 250 AWD has done this on 3 or 4 occasions.
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I have noticed that my car occasionally seems to take off extremely slow from a dead stop? It almost seems as if the traction control is engaging, but I am not taking off fast, and it has also happened at low speeds (10-20 mph)???? It feels like I'm towing a damn boat behind me......
The TSB for the transmission was performed last year sometime.
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The prius stock battery is weak compared to my wifes Mercury Mariner battery. The Mariner acceleration on battery alone is excellent - she can get up to 30 mph in no time on just the battery. In my prius it has very slow acceleration at a dead stop while running only on battery. Is it possible to buy aftermarket (stronger) batteries for the prius so I can at least driver the car up to 30 mph only on battery?
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I have a 1998 Ford Escort ZX2, 2.0L DOHC. I recently had the check engine light come on with code that basically says my VCT solenoid is malfunctioning. It is not very easy to find information about this part, I see that it is expensive, and time consuming to replace. I don't really have the time or money, the car still runs with 120k.What kind of consequences would I run into if I decided not to replace the part. The only thing I can find is that I would not pass emissions.
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I recently replaced a bad head gasket on this car. After putting the reworked head back on the engine and putting everything back together, I can't get fuel to the engine. I cheated and took the intake manifold out and bolted it to the head and then set it back in the car plugging my injectors back into the manifold once in there. I checked all my electrical connections and they are all good. I am not getting power to the fuel pump, which was replaced a year ago when I first started tinkering with fixing the car. I get power to and from the inertia/fuel cut-off switch, but it doesn't appear to get to the fuel pump. I checked all the injectors to make sure they were seated properly which they were and all the fuses both under the dash and hood that I know about and then some. When I pull the 30amp fuse under the hood, and replace it, I do hear a sound that sounds like something is pressurizing or pumping for a second or to, but the sound is from under the hood and not from the pump/gas tank area.
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Our '93 Escort, Gilligan, (1.pL, 125K, manual and under our ownership for less than 6 months) has recently developed the shameful habit of chugging and glugging during acceleration, most specifically second and third gears, with the occasional hiccups at cruising speeds. If Gil is driven a little "harder" then there is little issue with sputtering, but then we are killing our MPG and beating the crud out of his motor. Using a careful foot there are better "zones" that can be found via the accelerator than others, but no "safe zone".
He has had several bottles of fuel injector cleaner, new spark plugs (the wires looked fairly new and clean), fuel filter and a replacement ignition coil pack, so these have been ruled out. I thought it might be the Mass Air Flow Sensor, so I drove him around with it unplugged, but that made no difference. If there is a clog in a injector is it possible to "flush" it out or would he require a more in depth cleaning?
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I just recently purchased a 1998 ford escort. the gas gauge constantly at half. I haven't driven it yet because my insurance kicks in in a few days.
I asked my friend about it and he said that some cars always gauge the amount of gas no matter if its running or not. Is my escort one of those cars? or is it just broken?
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I have a 1998 Ford Escort which I drove about 450 miles in frigid weather over about 8 hours in mid January. After arriving at my neighborhood and getting off the expressway, I couldn't get the idle on the car (manual transmission) to go below 2500rpm's. Further, upon taking off, the car was trying to stall, and I was forced to feather the clutch through town driving and keep the throttle up so it wouldn't stall, even with the clutch in. The weather at the time was about -7 degrees (f). The next day the weather continued, and thee car would start, jump to the same idle for 10 seconds, then drop suddenly to 500rpm, then stall out. I wrote the car off, cleaned it out over the next week, and then I tried to run the radio while doing so last weekend. I got the car to start, and run normally. I think it may be a computer issue, but it may also be the temperatures. The car has 207,000 miles on it.
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1998 Ford Escort SE ... On idle ( at a red light or in park while on) it shakes terribly. When I shift into N it will lessen for 3-10 seconds, but then it will cycle back to the vibrating. The spark plugs were replaced about 4 months ago and got a brand new transmission 5 years ago this coming summer. It came into the family in '00 and I got it when I turned 16. The vibration started about 2 years ago and at first I was told "little car has shaky engine". When it got worse I was told it was the motor mounts, which I replaced a year ago. When they were first put in the car ran smooth as ever.
My mother turned on the AC while I was taking her for a test ride that same day and it started back shaking. They said the motor mounts were perfectly in place, and that it was a broken fan blade. My husband and I just don't see a fan blade causing that much shaking. I can hear the car violently vibrating when I park and take pizza to someone's door. Also a more minor problem, ever since we put new brakes on, my brake light comes on too easy. The weight of the peddle will turn the light on, and I have to keep using my foot to pull it up after each time I touch it, and sometimes when I'm driving.
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98 Ford Escort SE... Was changing out fuel filter and noticed the bottom (filter sets upright) snap holder the broke. Would I be ok with just cutting off some of the metal line and adding flex/rubber and using clamps?
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This problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
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Iv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
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So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
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i have a 1998 escort se when i park the car on a slant it leaks gas it has been leaking for about 2 weeks now. The other day i parked it on driveway it is up hill the car would not start so i push it down to a straight surface it started now i see the car is stalling now. Could it be fuel pump, gas tank or something else...
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I have a '98 ZX2. Recently, my car started misfiring. I'm not sure of the cylinder number, but it's the one closest to the driver's side. Long story short, I found that the fuel injector is not firing, if that is the correct term. I used some trick I learned on youtube which involves using a screwdriver to listen for the fuel injector clicking. Anyway, I made a noid light out of an LED and a couple of resistors and found out that there is no injector pulse. I know the noid light works because I tested it on the other cylinders and it flashes. Anyway, I'm not sure where to go from here. I've read elsewhere it could be the PCM but if that were the case it would probably affect every cylinder and if it was a crankshaft position sensor the car wouldn't start.
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I have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
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