Ford - Escort :: 1996 Intermittently Threatening To Stall
Jun 19, 2011
I have a 1996 Ford Escort that was giving me problems resulting in a new fuel pump and fuel filter, that was improperly installed and got that fixed. It has continued with the problems and they are getting worse. I had the fuel pressure checked, came out fine, then had a full engine diagnostic test, all testing fine. The mechanic suspects a sensor. The car acts like it is going to stall, then just when I think it is going to quit, it kicks in and runs great.
I got bad fuel a while back and it is doing the same behavior except does not quit. It happens very intermittently, now in every driving situation, except since I brought it in. The mechanic said if he checks the sensor when it's not happening, it would be a waste of time and money. Is this true? A faulty sensor will not read as faulty? This town is full of bridges, and the highway has long stretches of nothing and a mountain pass. He is suggesting I drive it until it happens again, then take it in, but that's what I did the first time. Do I really have to wait till it quits in one of these driving scenarios?
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I want to remove the spark plugs but unable to loosen them. How I can easily loosen them up without breaking them?
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I want to change the spark plugs and wires in my 1996 Ford Escort (1.9 Engine).
The problem is trying to remove the No. 1 spark plug boot and spark plug. Both are located behind the alternator and are difficult to get to. I tried a boot puller but could not get easy access to the boot to pull it off the spark plug. The other three boots and spark plugs are readily accessible.
Is it sufficient to place the dielectric compound just inside the opening of the boot before placing it back on the spark plug, or should it be placed on the metal clip that is ~2-3 inches down inside the boot?
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I have a 1996 Ford Escort with ~128,500 miles on it.
When I start the engine (either cold or hot), occasionally the engine will sound like it is missing and, if I step on the accelerator to give it more gas, after ~10-15 seconds the engine runs fine and the problem disappears. The engines shuts off if I don't step on the accelerator.
This happens approximately 3-4 times per week and I drive the car every day. I never know when the problem will arise.
I took the car to a Ford dealer to have it looked at and the mechanic, without doing any testing, said that it was either a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. The mechanic later then ran some tests upon my request and confirmed that it was not a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. No further tests were performed at that time, so I still am left without any definitive answer as to what is causing the problem.
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I have a 96 ford escort, 1.9. Recently I've noticed I get a pretty good vibration coming from the front end.
The vibration only occurs when I'm accelerating over 50. When I decelerate over 50 the vibration goes away.
What could be causing this?
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I have a 99 ford escort with a 2.0 SOHC engine and for the last week or so it was making a tapping noise but it was intermittent. Today, I revved the motor up slightly and it started making this horrible clanking noise and then it stalled out. I tried starting it up and when it did start to run, it made the same clanking noise then it shut off. I tried to start it up and it wont even turn over. Its acting like it seized up but I am not sure if its in the top end or the bottom end. Now I know the CVH engines are notorious for dropping valve seats but I am not sure how to diagnose it if that is what happened.
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I have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
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The shop replacing my front tires advised me to replace my front brakes and rotors soon. I'm not a huge car repair person, but I remembered my father-in-law saying brakes aren't that bad to work with. The car is the "college beater" I bought ten years ago and I'm trying to keep investments in it minimal. I told the shop I would do the brakes myself. So I spent the weekend with the Haynes manual fussing with overtorqued lug nuts, rusted on rotors, tightly wedged guide pins, and outer pads that didn't seem to have room (not the piston side). Got everything assembled, bled the caliper that was disconnected, and took it for a test drive.
I got about 30 feet from the driveway before pulling back in. The front of the car was making an grumble sound and had an odd vibration like a flat tire. This was with brakes engaged and not engaged. The car stopped fine, but I probably didn't get above 10 mph. Is this part of the "bedding/seating" process? I put in new (cheap) rotors and pads. This afternoon I'll check to ensure the pads are in properly and aren't dragging on the rotor and that I have the wheels properly centered. Car is a 96 Ford Escort 2 door hatchback.
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What's wrong with my 98 ranger. automatic trans, rebuilt last year. over the summer i've replaced the battery and the alternator. oh, the radiator too, though why that would matter i don't know. believe it's the 4 cylinder, 2 wheel drive.
without any rhyme or obvious reason, sometimes it won't start. always after driving somewhere then parking. like after i go get groceries then go to return home. sometimes when i'm parking it'll stall out too.
electronics and ac come on when i turn the key, but no mechanical sounds at all. headlights aren't dimmed when i turn the key or anything. no clicks, no starter trying to rev, nothing. check engine light is not on. recently got it inspected (state inspection) and had the battery tested during an oil change at walmart. no problems found.
i discovered over the weekend that if i shift it into neutral and roll it a foot, come to a full stop, return to park, and try to start it, it works like nothing is wrong.
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I have a 1996 Ford Escort with a 1.9 liter engine. I was checking my automatic transmission fluid and the dip stick shows 20 C and 65 C on the dipstick. How do I know if my fluid level is correct? Where should the mark be on level surface, in park with engine running.
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My 96 2dr. Blazer with 121,000 on it . It will randomly not start. Come back next day starts and runs fine. It will randomly Stall (usually at lower RPM) it may start back up or not .If it dosen't start, it will start up 2 hours later, like nothing happened.
Fuel press. reads 58-62 lbs. running or with k.o.e.o., Even when it won't start. It holds press. for 2 min. c.e.l. never comes on when car won't start. c.e.l. would come on at close to red line and would be "left bank rich" Dont think it's crank or cam sensor cause their are no codes? Gonna check coil and ICM .
Checked for bad connectors at ecu, and everywhere, pulled, giggled on harness at ign. switch,plugs on drivers side under hood.Pump coming on even when car doesn't start. When it dies or doesn't start it doesn't sputter, like it's not getting gas ,I think it's voltage.
Car has new fuel pump and spider installed 2 years ago, run 44K every 6mos. Car is perfect inside and out Very well maintained . I want to keep this car forever.
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I own a 1996 Toyota Corolla Manuel Transmission. Im currently experiencing an i idling issue. When i first start the car everything is pretty much ok. Until it finally heats up and reaches normal temperature. After that it boggs really low almost wanting to stall out. When I'm driving i have no issues it drives smoothly and shifts fine. This is a list of everything i have done so far:
Vacuum line cleaning
Throttle body and EGR valve cleaning as well as checked for cracks (After I cleaned this it seemed to work a little)
Tune up (wires, plugs, cap, rotor,)Changed the fuel filter
Ran lucas fuel injector cleaner
Cleaned the IAC
Not really sure what else to do.
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Sometimes in the morning the AC will work just fine, but after a while it stops working. It looks like the clutch will not engage and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. I'll take a picture later on today. I'm wondering which part is what, and what might be causing the problem.
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I have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl 5 spd. I've only had it for a month or so, but I've noticed on cold mornings my odometer won't work. The trip or the total mileage. I can hear the odometer cable clicking. Once the cab gets warmed up it'll start working. It's only happened twice, at about 50 degrees or lower, so I can only imagine what'll happen once winter kicks in. Where to go from here? I was thinking maybe it needs to be re-lubed or something...
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I figured something out on my ranger that has been bugging me for a while it was a third cly misfire so I changed the plugs and it went away for a while.the po told me he had just changed the plug wires so i didn't mess with those and it was an intermittent misfire so i changed the brain box because it was 15.00 at pull and save and it had been all updated boy did it run smooth for a while then the misfire came back. So I decided to check the 3rd cylinder plug wires and found out the one that is hard to change on the drivers side was badly rusted so i borrowed one off my windstar it was a little longer but boy does it run smoother and it doesn't die all the time and chug chug all the time now i just need to change the battery. i have already changed the clutch and the tranny twice i took one out of an 88 and it fit just fine by the way the engine is a 2.3 8 plug engine with over 230,000miles on it my next project is a timing belt and a heater core won't that be fun and yes i smell the antifreeze inside and don't like the stop leak like the last person put in.
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I get two codes both p0325....
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I have a 1986 Honda Accord Hatchback Lxi, 180,000 miles, automatic, one owner, always excellent care (very recently new spark plugs, new air filter, new oil and filter, and several years ago new Pirelli tires). Lately, while driving, it intermittently loses power, like it's going to stall, but never does. I accelerate to recover. Years ago I used to hear about vapor lock. Last week I took it to a Honda dealer. They had no diagnostic machines for "old" cars and had no clue what was causing this. Most of the time, the car drives beautifully, but it's scary thinking it's going to quit and I'll be stranded on the side of the road.
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i have a 96 ranger with a 2.3l engine sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it has to crank 4 or 5 times to start i just gave it a tuneup and changed the oil and filter. should i run sea foam through the oil system,it sat for about seven years and i need to convert the idiot gauge to a real gauge.
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Just bought this truck and no check engine light was on, went to get it smogged so I could register it and it had the following fault codes: P1443, P0401, P1131, and P1132. The truck seems to run great in my opinion and even gets really good gas mileage. There is a whistle intermittently from the intake manifold area though that is at times pretty loud.
Smog tech told me these trucks are "notorious" for the check engine light going bad and that usually the entire instrument cluster has to be replaced in order to fix it. I'm a very experienced motorcycle /small engine tech but do not have much experience with car/truck engines and especially not with emissions control systems.
Again it is a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6, 4 wheel drive STX with 185,000 miles on it. Where to start or what might be the source(s) of these error codes?
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Because my car would intermittently start with the key (it would run fine if I jumped the relay at the starter) I just put in a new Autozone lock/cylinder in my old '96 Lumina LS. Prior to the install, I took the new lock/key and old key to the locksmith, who told me he has the tool to read the resistance on the key which corresponds to the computer in my car and I wouldn't need to go to GM. Also, the brake lights weren't working right so while I had the steering wheel off I replaced the turn signal switch too.
I went to check to make sure the turn signals/brake lights worked before buttoning everything back up so I reattached the battery, with the key in the new lock; the dash lights came on, the chime went off as they should. I then put the ignition key in the 'run' position and the chime died and the lock mechanism will no longer turn and I get no lights at the dash. The car won't shift and I'm effectively screwed! FYI - The headlights and brake lights both now work but I can't turn the key in the ignition. Did I just get locked out? Did my locksmith hand me a line of bull?
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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