Ford - Escort :: 1994 - No Startup Until Put The Car In N
Mar 10, 2016
My son has a 94 Escort which is having some starting issues. On occasion when he's been out and about it won't start. He's checked under the hood, then tries it again, and it usually starts right up.
However, today the issue has changed. It wouldn't start until he put the car in N. From research, this sounds like a neutral sensor.
But to put a little twist in, sometimes it will start in P, but at times it will chug until he puts it in gear, where it runs fine. Could that be another symptom of the neutral sensor, or does it sound like two different issues.
I tried it when he got home and noticed the chugging on starting in P, and fine starting when in N.
No CEL or other warning lights. This happens with warm re-starts. It had new plugs and wires put in about a year ago.
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When I am at a complete stop in my 1994 ford escort hatcack sedan 1.9L the car sometimes vibrates not very hard but it is noticeable and goes away when i put it into neutral gets worse with A/C on what is causing this to happen? The car has 123,300 miles on it
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I have a 1996 Ford Escort with ~128,500 miles on it.
When I start the engine (either cold or hot), occasionally the engine will sound like it is missing and, if I step on the accelerator to give it more gas, after ~10-15 seconds the engine runs fine and the problem disappears. The engines shuts off if I don't step on the accelerator.
This happens approximately 3-4 times per week and I drive the car every day. I never know when the problem will arise.
I took the car to a Ford dealer to have it looked at and the mechanic, without doing any testing, said that it was either a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. The mechanic later then ran some tests upon my request and confirmed that it was not a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. No further tests were performed at that time, so I still am left without any definitive answer as to what is causing the problem.
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Here is my car info:
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1994 Ford Escort LX (Wagon)
1.9L SEFI engine
Just installed a new timing belt, water pump, thermostat and serpentine belt (the car was running great)
Here is the exact sequence of events that caused the issue:
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I was working on the car
I backed up on to wheel ramps so that I could check the exhaust
I noticed that the car was idling high, so I removed and lubed the IAC with WD-40
I put the IAC back in place with grey RTV and tightened it down ( It's not leaking at all )
Here are the exact symptoms:
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I turn on the ignition switch
The fuel pump pumps and sounds normal
The Fuel gauge shows about 3/4 tank (which is accurate... I recently filled the tank)
The low fuel light comes on (which makes no sense to me)
When I turn the ignition to the start position, the car cranks and sounds normal, but it doesn't even attempt to run. When I crank the car the Low Fuel light goes off, but the Fuel Cutoff light comes on (only while cranking). I also notice a slight smell of gasoline, but I can't find any fuel leaking or dripping anywhere!
What I've tried:
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Looking for fuel leaks ( can't find any). Made sure the IAC is properly connected.
Verified and tested the Inertia switch in the right rear of the car ( it is working properly and has not been tripped). When I trip it, the fuel pump does not run. When I reset it the fuel pump works properly again.
Disconnected the + battery cable for 5 minutes or more in an attempt to reset the ECU. It didn't work. Symptoms remain the same.
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I changed the transmission (automatic) in a 94 Honda accord EX 4 cylinder and now it delays when starting. What I mean is if you stick the key in and try to start it normally it will just keep turning over. However if you wait about three seconds with the key in the ON posssition it will start right up like normal. Otherwise it drivers normally. I noticed the fuel pump isn't kicking on right away to prime the rail, but I didn't touch the fuel system when I changed the tranny out.
Transmission has the proper amount of OEM Honda fluid. CEL is on but I don't know how to check the codes on this OBD1 vehicle.
I am suspecting either a weak fuel pump or I missed something during installation. I double checked to make sure everything was plugged in properly on tranny.
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First bit of cold weather and I'm getting thirty seconds of loud clicking (or clacking) coming from the immediate vicinity of the blower motor on start up and shut down. Doesn't matter whether my climate control is on or off, it still makes the noise. I'm assuming it's stripped out teeth on one of the blend door actuator gears and I'll probably just end up replacing it. My problem: Where exactly is the offending actuator? I've removed the glove box and noted one located on the left side. I unplugged this but am still getting the ratcheting sound so it obviously isn't the culprit. I had this happen a few years back (same time of year) and out of ignorance and frustration solved it with a well aimed kick but the way it's acting this time I don't think I've got a big enough boot.
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I just stepped into my1997 Escort Wagon and started it up. I reached over to turn on the air conditioning and the fan did not come on at all. I checked my fuses inside and outside(under the hood) and nothing seems blown.
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I have a 1999 ford escort that is slow turning over and now does not turn over at all. I have replaced the battery, starter, alternator and neutral safety switch.
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I have a 93 escort with a 140,000 miles with the 1.9 and AT. Sometimes when I go to accelerate the fastest it will go is about 10mph no mater how far I have the gas pedal pushed, and the engine does not rev up at all. It just acts like I am coasting and not using the gas pedal. The car idles fine and will rev up and down when in park.
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I have a 1992 ford escort lx that I just got and it is a great car cheap on gas a great work car but the only thing is the av doesn't work. I can turn on the air to cool but when I turn on the ac my car stalls out. So my question : what the problem is?
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I've got a problem with my 93 ford escort. About a month ago things in it began to stop working. 1st the wipers and then the heater. and now the ignition won't start my car. It will allow it to turn over but it doesn't turn on the engine light before it starts to kick in. Bad key assembly or the whole switch? Or a relay ?
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95 Ford Escort shuts down like you turn off the key. This just started happening with no warning. Idles fine had to replace the plugs,wires and the dist.pack.
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When I turn right, my 91 Ford Escort will suddenly lose all power in gas pedal, and then either go, or die. It starts right up when I turn off, then turn on. This can happen for 5-6 times (of turning), then be ok for a few times. Mechanic had it for over a week, decided to replace fuel pump, but problem persists. No problems turning left.
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I have a 1998 Ford Escort ZX2, 2.0L DOHC. I recently had the check engine light come on with code that basically says my VCT solenoid is malfunctioning. It is not very easy to find information about this part, I see that it is expensive, and time consuming to replace. I don't really have the time or money, the car still runs with 120k.What kind of consequences would I run into if I decided not to replace the part. The only thing I can find is that I would not pass emissions.
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My son has a 94 Escort LX and this weekend he noticed that when he'd stop the car he could hear the coolant boiling. The car temp gauge never registered too hot, and it never lost coolant. We checked the oil and it is not milky.
About 2 years ago it got a new water pump. Last summer a new thermostat, and then earlier this year a new radiator.
Last weekend he was stuck in a huge traffic jam. (4.5 hours for a normally 45 min. drive). I'm wondering if that could have weakened the radiator cap. He's picking up a new one today, but wonder if there is something else we should check?
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I recently replaced a bad head gasket on this car. After putting the reworked head back on the engine and putting everything back together, I can't get fuel to the engine. I cheated and took the intake manifold out and bolted it to the head and then set it back in the car plugging my injectors back into the manifold once in there. I checked all my electrical connections and they are all good. I am not getting power to the fuel pump, which was replaced a year ago when I first started tinkering with fixing the car. I get power to and from the inertia/fuel cut-off switch, but it doesn't appear to get to the fuel pump. I checked all the injectors to make sure they were seated properly which they were and all the fuses both under the dash and hood that I know about and then some. When I pull the 30amp fuse under the hood, and replace it, I do hear a sound that sounds like something is pressurizing or pumping for a second or to, but the sound is from under the hood and not from the pump/gas tank area.
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Our '93 Escort, Gilligan, (1.pL, 125K, manual and under our ownership for less than 6 months) has recently developed the shameful habit of chugging and glugging during acceleration, most specifically second and third gears, with the occasional hiccups at cruising speeds. If Gil is driven a little "harder" then there is little issue with sputtering, but then we are killing our MPG and beating the crud out of his motor. Using a careful foot there are better "zones" that can be found via the accelerator than others, but no "safe zone".
He has had several bottles of fuel injector cleaner, new spark plugs (the wires looked fairly new and clean), fuel filter and a replacement ignition coil pack, so these have been ruled out. I thought it might be the Mass Air Flow Sensor, so I drove him around with it unplugged, but that made no difference. If there is a clog in a injector is it possible to "flush" it out or would he require a more in depth cleaning?
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I just recently purchased a 1998 ford escort. the gas gauge constantly at half. I haven't driven it yet because my insurance kicks in in a few days.
I asked my friend about it and he said that some cars always gauge the amount of gas no matter if its running or not. Is my escort one of those cars? or is it just broken?
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i have a 1991 ford escort pony i w driving it fine all day then all a sudden i stopped to get water the car died when it did i tried to restart it , it bogged out and didnt start i waited a hr it started idled for 20 mins reved it up everything seemed ok but then i went to actually drive it i got 1/3 of a mile if that and it died on the side of the road with my lil daughter in the car and 104 degrees outside. me and my father thought it was a furl filter or pump but in the primer valvei t has plenty of fuel and pressure. what it could be?
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I have a 1999 ford escort 4 door sedan, when the car is cold I can get it to start and it will run just fine, after it starts to warm up, it starts to make a misfire/ sputtering noise when it is starting to die when idling. when I am driving it, there are no signs it is going to die.
I took it to the ford dealership today and they said that I need to replace the fuel pump, and the relay control module.
I just replaced the fuel pump a week ago because I thought that was the problem. So I am thinking it is the Relay Control Module- only problem is I don't know where it is located, where it is?
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I want to remove the spark plugs but unable to loosen them. How I can easily loosen them up without breaking them?
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