Ford - Escort :: 1993 - Sputtering During Acceleration
Sep 18, 2011
Our '93 Escort, Gilligan, (1.pL, 125K, manual and under our ownership for less than 6 months) has recently developed the shameful habit of chugging and glugging during acceleration, most specifically second and third gears, with the occasional hiccups at cruising speeds. If Gil is driven a little "harder" then there is little issue with sputtering, but then we are killing our MPG and beating the crud out of his motor. Using a careful foot there are better "zones" that can be found via the accelerator than others, but no "safe zone".
He has had several bottles of fuel injector cleaner, new spark plugs (the wires looked fairly new and clean), fuel filter and a replacement ignition coil pack, so these have been ruled out. I thought it might be the Mass Air Flow Sensor, so I drove him around with it unplugged, but that made no difference. If there is a clog in a injector is it possible to "flush" it out or would he require a more in depth cleaning?
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Ok, so I have a 1993 ford escort gt that will not pump fuel through the fuel lines. I know the pump works, I can hear it kicking on and off, and if I remove the fuel lines from the pump fuel pours out. I know the lines are not clogged, I took a high pressure air pump and blew air through the lines, but for some reason when I hook up the lines it will not pump fuel through them, after turning it over if I remove the lines they are still dry.
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my car stopped starting. when you turn the key i hear a buzzing noise from dash, but nothing else. tried replacing ignition switch, no result. removed starter had it tested, passed. checked battery, passed. Don't know what to try next.
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I have a 1993 Escort with a manual transmission. It runs great and is pretty dependable. Lately it has been making this wierd noise. It's like growling. Yeah. Wierd. I think my car is angry with me. The growling noise is most noticeable when I downshift. When I stop the noise is gone. Also, when I am accelerating the noise is not present. I hear the growling when I'm coasting in neutral too, though it's not as loud as it is when I downshift. How can I make my car happy again and stop the growling?
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I have a 93 ford escort which makes a clunking noise if I shift into reverse without letting the car warm up and idle down. It sounds as if the noise is coming from the front passenger side wheel well. The sound does not occur when shifting into reverse if the car is allowed to warm up and idle down to 1100 rpm. What's up?
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I just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
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I was driving my '93 Ford Escort and it threw off the serpentine belt that I had just replaced. When I went to replace it, I found that I couldn't get the serpentine belt on because the crankshaft pulley was touching the wheel well/car body.
A friend suggested that it is probably an engine mount issue, and I have replaced the front, and passenger side engine mounts, but that has not solved the problem. I'm planning on checking the rear engine mount and the transmission mount, but I was interested in hearing what else might be causing this?
Other details in case they are relevant: It's the 1.9l engine with 5 speed manual transmission. The engine itself seems to be running fine, except that the crank pulley rubs the wheel well.
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This morning on my drive into work I discovered that when trying to accelerate while moving at ~60mph or more the car would shudder and experience a lack of any power at all. If I continued to press down on the accelerator the car would continue to shudder and it would get worse. It felt like an engine stall shudder but constant. If I was below 60mph are tried to accelerate I had no problem, I could continue to accelerate all the way to 70mph, then I would have to slow down for traffic. However after cruising above 60mph and then pressing down on the accelerator I would experience the shuddering. I experienced this issue suddenly with no gradually increasing issues at all.
Car Details:
1993 Ford Escort Wagon LX 1.9L SEF I64K miles
Recently replaced oil, about 2wks ago
Air Filter fine and unobstructed
Car has been getting about 36mpg
Exhaust was replaced about 1 month ago and is unobstructed.
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I have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
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93 explorer 215000 miles on it runs like a champ 99.9% of the time. I am on my way home today on the highway going 75mph when all of sudden it started slowing down and sputtering. I quickly pulled over and as I did the car shut off. When I was pumping the pedal nothing would happen. I initially thought fuel pump is dead as I dont know if its been replaced. 45 minutes later on the side of the highway after multiple times trying to start, it does and I cruise the next 20 miles home no problems at all????
Got home started it a few times, NO PROBLEMS!
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98 Ford Escort SE
Been having acceleration issues with the Escort for a while now. The repairs I've made on the vehicle so far are; new fuel pump, coil pack and mass air flow sensor cleaning. Those are in order.
Now onto the issue. From a dead stop and sometimes while driving my vehicle will give acceleration issues though mostly from a dead stop. Checked the tranny fluid and it was a light brown with bubbles(?) so thought I'd do a fluid change but with the work required wanted some input before ripping into it.
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I have 93 cavalier 2.2l will start up and run for 5 or 10 min then start sputtering and then will stop running acts like it has bad gas, but once it does this it will not start for rest of the day will start next morning. I have seen liquid coming out of tail pipe.
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I have a 89 chevy silverado with 380000 miles. It has the 5.7, 350 engine, 2 wheel drive , automatic. The past few days I've noticed when the engine is cold , the engine starts sputtering on acceleration. If I ease off the gas and let it accelerate slowly it seems to be okay. Once the engine is warms the problem is not present. I haven't checked anything as of yet but wanted to get some input so I'm not chasing and replacing things for no reason. I did a complete tune up about 7000 miles ago. Cap and rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter and pvc valve, EGR valve, coil and fuel pump( only becasue my float has been sticking for years). I run the K&N air filter and I just cleaned it last month.
I did notice one item the past few months. When I open the passenger door after I get done driving I can smell gas. I thought it problably coming from the engine compartment air intake since it feeds from the passenger side.
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My 1993 ford aerostar 3.0 is a great vehicle but recently its been killing me trying to figure out what the cause is. I'll start at the beginning. I had a job over the hill in Westwood Ca. Ran low on gas on the way home. Too low apparently. Since i refueled it has a really rough idle and no power under acceleration. After it gets warmed up i get a bad smell of gas and exhaust in the cab.
Now if i turn it off wait 15 min or 12 hours it will run ok for 2 min then back to hell. I has not stalled and i have replaced the fuel filter and a few months back i cleaned the Mass air flow sensor and replaced the TPS. I would love to take it to a mechanic but as i have been living in this old girl for the passed 6 months money is non-existent.
What to do. I have even tried disconnecting 1 at a time... the TPS, MAF, and the 02 sensor. No difference. There has been no check engine light until I tested by disconnecting TPS etc.
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I have a 2002 echo with 168K miles. My car was doing fine but I decided to change the air filter and spark plugs because I had a feeling the person I bought it from hadn't done it. All spark plugs needed to be changed (first 2 were hand loose also). I put in autolite platinum ( I believe bosch platinum were in there). All was fine until 5 days later the car started sputtering at acceleration at 40 mph. Then a few days later it would sputter at first pressing gas then again at 30mph and at 40mph. I let it go and read to clean air flow sensor but haven't yet.
About 2 weeks later it finally produced a code that cylinder 2 misfired. I noticed at that point the sputtering would only be when warmed up. I was going to put in bosch's to see if that would fix it but instead just had time to inspect plugs and coils. Nothing seemed wrong so I put them back in for now. This was Saturday.Echo ran fine until this morning. Now it is sputtering at 40mph. I assume if i let it go it will do the same thing. Can it be the spark plugs are bad and I should be using bosch's or is there another problem i should be looking at?
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
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Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado rwd automatic 350 5.7. It died on me on the way to work this morning. It slowly lost power and acceleration. The lights and radio all worked. When I tried to restart, it tried to start but then just cranked like it had no fuel or spark.
I had it towed home and checked the following things. I removed the fuel filter, it is clear. I verified that the fuel pump was working by turn the key to the on position while the filter was off. Good stream of fuel. I verified that there was fuel to the TBI. Good spray while cranking. I verified that there was spark by pulling a plug out, connecting to the wire and cranking the engine. Spark seemed weak but there was spark. The front plugs were dry, but the rear plugs, especially #8 was very wet. I verified the timing by pulling the #1 plug, removing the distributor cap and checked the rotor position. I bumped the engine to get the #1 piston to the top of the cylinder and the rotor was point directly at the #1 plug wire. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are only 1 month old.
I also tried to check the ignition coil by disconnecting the coil wire from coil, and slid the boot back to expose the contact. I held it just of the coil while the engine was cranked, but did not actually see a spark at the coil. I did not hear any arcing. I pulled another plug and checked for spark. Again i had spark. Just seems weak to me. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get a new coil.
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Recently I have noticed my 1993 Volvo 940 makes a noisewhile driving, that sounds as best I can describe as a card in a bicycle spoke;or kind of like the putt-putt sound, you hear from a large truck idling next toyou. I hear it while driving, wheneverstepping on the gas pedal, but not while idling, or when the car is in park or natural. The faster I accelerate the louder the noiseis. I want to try to trouble shoot this but I do notknow where to even begin looking into this. Maybe there's a leak somewhere.
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I just stepped into my1997 Escort Wagon and started it up. I reached over to turn on the air conditioning and the fan did not come on at all. I checked my fuses inside and outside(under the hood) and nothing seems blown.
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I have a 1999 ford escort that is slow turning over and now does not turn over at all. I have replaced the battery, starter, alternator and neutral safety switch.
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