I have a 93 ford escort which makes a clunking noise if I shift into reverse without letting the car warm up and idle down. It sounds as if the noise is coming from the front passenger side wheel well. The sound does not occur when shifting into reverse if the car is allowed to warm up and idle down to 1100 rpm. What's up?
View 6 RepliesI just recently bought a 95 F150 with a 351. The truck has high mileage, about 190k, and I am not sure how long the transmission has left. It rides smooth down the road, but when I put the truck into reverse it hesitates for a moment then makes a loud clunking sound(as if a door is being slammed) and then jerks into gear. The reverse works great at the moment though. Should I be worried, is there anything I can do to fix this?
View 11 RepliesI continuously read that people with 6.2 F250s averaging 13 mpg or so in a combination city/highway driving. This 2014 4x4 barely has enough power to move itself (honestly, I'd rather have my Ram 1500 back) and barely gets 10mpg. Basically have to give it about half-pedal to even get up to freeway speed and floor it if i want to pass anything. Is it just that much of a POS or does this not sound right? Other than a massive "clunk" sound when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa, no indication of any problems.
View 14 RepliesI just had the motor torque and strut mount fixed and was told that I have an exhaust leak flex pipe. My problem is I'm still getting a clunk when shifting into reverse doesn't happen all the time but it is concerning plan to have flexpipe fixed in the near future. will that take care of the clunking sound or is it something else? don't have a lot of cash to work with right now.
View 1 RepliesSometimes when putting the vehicle into first it's almost impossible to get it to go into gear. Sometimes it's super smooth. Also when putting into reverse we hear a loud clunk. That one is most of the time but sometimes it goes in smooth. I was doing some looking around at the pedals because I think I am going to have to replace my master cylinder and noticed that on the inside of the vehicle where the clutch master cylinder comes into the vehicle it's leaking black fluid. Does that automatically mean my clutch master cylinder needs to be changed? Could this be the cause of it being difficult to shift because the clutch isn't fully disengaging?
View 11 RepliesI bought a 2005 Accent with 150k one year ago and 3 months ago got AT fluid and filter changed. Color was very dark my mechanic friend said.
I checked the fluid and after just 3 months light driving, noticed it smelled burnt and so just changed it again yesterday and it was very dark.
Another piece of info is that previously when got the fluid changed 3 months ago the level registered way above high when car was off but then then normal when running in N. Same thing is happening now. My knowledgeable mechanic friend just told me to keep my eye on it.
There are no shifting issues, except for just light clunk when shifting into Reverse, but other than that it's great.
I just want to know what problems might be going on to burn the fluid so fast and have strange level readings when car is off but okay when on. I read some stuff about solenoids but because shifting is great should I even consider that?
Our '93 Escort, Gilligan, (1.pL, 125K, manual and under our ownership for less than 6 months) has recently developed the shameful habit of chugging and glugging during acceleration, most specifically second and third gears, with the occasional hiccups at cruising speeds. If Gil is driven a little "harder" then there is little issue with sputtering, but then we are killing our MPG and beating the crud out of his motor. Using a careful foot there are better "zones" that can be found via the accelerator than others, but no "safe zone".
He has had several bottles of fuel injector cleaner, new spark plugs (the wires looked fairly new and clean), fuel filter and a replacement ignition coil pack, so these have been ruled out. I thought it might be the Mass Air Flow Sensor, so I drove him around with it unplugged, but that made no difference. If there is a clog in a injector is it possible to "flush" it out or would he require a more in depth cleaning?
Ok, so I have a 1993 ford escort gt that will not pump fuel through the fuel lines. I know the pump works, I can hear it kicking on and off, and if I remove the fuel lines from the pump fuel pours out. I know the lines are not clogged, I took a high pressure air pump and blew air through the lines, but for some reason when I hook up the lines it will not pump fuel through them, after turning it over if I remove the lines they are still dry.
View 8 Repliesmy car stopped starting. when you turn the key i hear a buzzing noise from dash, but nothing else. tried replacing ignition switch, no result. removed starter had it tested, passed. checked battery, passed. Don't know what to try next.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1993 Escort with a manual transmission. It runs great and is pretty dependable. Lately it has been making this wierd noise. It's like growling. Yeah. Wierd. I think my car is angry with me. The growling noise is most noticeable when I downshift. When I stop the noise is gone. Also, when I am accelerating the noise is not present. I hear the growling when I'm coasting in neutral too, though it's not as loud as it is when I downshift. How can I make my car happy again and stop the growling?
View 7 RepliesI just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
View 7 RepliesI was driving my '93 Ford Escort and it threw off the serpentine belt that I had just replaced. When I went to replace it, I found that I couldn't get the serpentine belt on because the crankshaft pulley was touching the wheel well/car body.
A friend suggested that it is probably an engine mount issue, and I have replaced the front, and passenger side engine mounts, but that has not solved the problem. I'm planning on checking the rear engine mount and the transmission mount, but I was interested in hearing what else might be causing this?
Other details in case they are relevant: It's the 1.9l engine with 5 speed manual transmission. The engine itself seems to be running fine, except that the crank pulley rubs the wheel well.
This morning on my drive into work I discovered that when trying to accelerate while moving at ~60mph or more the car would shudder and experience a lack of any power at all. If I continued to press down on the accelerator the car would continue to shudder and it would get worse. It felt like an engine stall shudder but constant. If I was below 60mph are tried to accelerate I had no problem, I could continue to accelerate all the way to 70mph, then I would have to slow down for traffic. However after cruising above 60mph and then pressing down on the accelerator I would experience the shuddering. I experienced this issue suddenly with no gradually increasing issues at all.
Car Details:
1993 Ford Escort Wagon LX 1.9L SEF I64K miles
Recently replaced oil, about 2wks ago
Air Filter fine and unobstructed
Car has been getting about 36mpg
Exhaust was replaced about 1 month ago and is unobstructed.
I have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
I have a 2009 Corolla S and the symptoms are as follows:
1. Normal forward driving, brakes work fine (and as expected without sound).
2. In reverse, when I apply the brakes I hear a click (clunk) sound from the front brakes. It only makes the sound when I'm going from moving to stopping (IE: I cant just keep pressing the brake once stopped to generate the noise). But if I let myself continue in reverse and press pedal again, it will make the same sound (very repeatable). I don't need to go forward to replicate the sound, I can just stay in reverse, stop (CLICK), continue in reverse, stop (CLICK), etc.
3. The it's noticable in the pedal. I can feel it on the brake with my foot when the noise happens.
4. It happens when I depress the brake pedal about 1/4 down, a gentle stop. And usually happens every time when I back out of my driveway or parking spot.
5. GF's sister's 2009 corolla CE does NOT make this noise in reverse.
6. 20,000 miles, Orig tires/brakes, didn't happen 4ish months ago.
I plan on putting winter tires on next month. Perhaps I'll take a look at the pads to make sure they aren't moving around, but wouldn't I also hear the noise in forward motion? Or when I switch from forward to reverse?
I bought a '93 F150 4x4 this past Sunday. It has the 5.8 and E4OD. Yesterday when I started it up and drove to the tire shop for some wheel balancing, it shifted VERY hard with each shift, so hard that it concerned me. I know very little about transmissions in general, and this one specifically, aside from it being electronically controlled.
This afternoon, I drove it again and it seemed to be shifting more "normally" without shifting anywhere nearly as hard as it did yesterday. What I should check first? I bought a filter kit and will change the filter/fluid (including torque converter) as soon as I'm able.
I own a 1994 Mazda B2300/Ford Ranger. Ever since I have owned it, there has been a slight "thump" when you let off the accelerator. Annoying, but for a cheap truck, I just ignored it. NOW, there is a clunk when I lift off, and when I hit the accelerator after shifting gears. There has been a loud "rumble" sort of sound for about two weeks, and I was told by a mechanic that I needed a "cat back" exhaust. Okay, but when I rev the truck in the driveway, it doesn't sound like the exhaust has issues. I DO get the rumble through the steering wheel and floor of the truck, and up until this morning, when I took the thing out of gear, or stepped on the clutch, the rumble sort of went away. Now, it doesn't.
View 4 RepliesMy brother in law has a 93 explorer which developed a serious transmission leak and had to be towed home. We suspected a blown front seal, which we replaced. We also replaced the transmission filter and pan gasket. When we started it up, it seemed like it was stuck in gear and wanted to move forward no matter what gear it was set to. Even wanted to go in park and neutral. We topped off the fluid, and finally got park to work, but all other gears including reverse want to go forward and it seems as though it is not shifting at all. Could we have forgotten a connection of some sort, of could something internal been damaged when the fluid was lost?
View 6 RepliesSo went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
When truck warms up I lose reverse. I changed fluid and tranny filter and I am still having the problem...
View 1 Replies2001 F-350 w/powerstroke. Tranny is the automatic w/overdrive. right at 170K miles and it has not been serviced since I've owned it (about 10 years).
Lately it is jerking when shifting, especially noticeable when I'm pulling my 5er (10K lbs). Almost a "clunk". No warning lights or OD flashing. I live at 6000 feet and play at over 9K so mountain driving is routine. Fluid is up to right spot on the dip-stick.