Ford - Escort :: 1993 - Bogs Down When Idling / Almost Stalls When Accelerating
Aug 30, 2011
I just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
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My 1993 ford aerostar 3.0 is a great vehicle but recently its been killing me trying to figure out what the cause is. I'll start at the beginning. I had a job over the hill in Westwood Ca. Ran low on gas on the way home. Too low apparently. Since i refueled it has a really rough idle and no power under acceleration. After it gets warmed up i get a bad smell of gas and exhaust in the cab.
Now if i turn it off wait 15 min or 12 hours it will run ok for 2 min then back to hell. I has not stalled and i have replaced the fuel filter and a few months back i cleaned the Mass air flow sensor and replaced the TPS. I would love to take it to a mechanic but as i have been living in this old girl for the passed 6 months money is non-existent.
What to do. I have even tried disconnecting 1 at a time... the TPS, MAF, and the 02 sensor. No difference. There has been no check engine light until I tested by disconnecting TPS etc.
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Our '93 Escort, Gilligan, (1.pL, 125K, manual and under our ownership for less than 6 months) has recently developed the shameful habit of chugging and glugging during acceleration, most specifically second and third gears, with the occasional hiccups at cruising speeds. If Gil is driven a little "harder" then there is little issue with sputtering, but then we are killing our MPG and beating the crud out of his motor. Using a careful foot there are better "zones" that can be found via the accelerator than others, but no "safe zone".
He has had several bottles of fuel injector cleaner, new spark plugs (the wires looked fairly new and clean), fuel filter and a replacement ignition coil pack, so these have been ruled out. I thought it might be the Mass Air Flow Sensor, so I drove him around with it unplugged, but that made no difference. If there is a clog in a injector is it possible to "flush" it out or would he require a more in depth cleaning?
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Ok, so I have a 1993 ford escort gt that will not pump fuel through the fuel lines. I know the pump works, I can hear it kicking on and off, and if I remove the fuel lines from the pump fuel pours out. I know the lines are not clogged, I took a high pressure air pump and blew air through the lines, but for some reason when I hook up the lines it will not pump fuel through them, after turning it over if I remove the lines they are still dry.
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my car stopped starting. when you turn the key i hear a buzzing noise from dash, but nothing else. tried replacing ignition switch, no result. removed starter had it tested, passed. checked battery, passed. Don't know what to try next.
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I have a 1993 Escort with a manual transmission. It runs great and is pretty dependable. Lately it has been making this wierd noise. It's like growling. Yeah. Wierd. I think my car is angry with me. The growling noise is most noticeable when I downshift. When I stop the noise is gone. Also, when I am accelerating the noise is not present. I hear the growling when I'm coasting in neutral too, though it's not as loud as it is when I downshift. How can I make my car happy again and stop the growling?
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I have a 93 ford escort which makes a clunking noise if I shift into reverse without letting the car warm up and idle down. It sounds as if the noise is coming from the front passenger side wheel well. The sound does not occur when shifting into reverse if the car is allowed to warm up and idle down to 1100 rpm. What's up?
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I have a 1992 ford escort lx that I just got and it is a great car cheap on gas a great work car but the only thing is the av doesn't work. I can turn on the air to cool but when I turn on the ac my car stalls out. So my question : what the problem is?
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2002 F-150 4.2L. About a year ago, it threw the P0171 and 0174 codes up. After replacing all the simple stuff, I bit the bullet and replaced the lower intake gasket as well as the upper intake gaskets. Buttoned it all up, reset the codes and we were back in business. No issues, truck ran good. About 6-8 months later, the check engine light came back on, I check it and it was that pesky set of codes again, 0171 and 0174.
It still ran fine, but the codes were there, so I just drove it for a while (it's a company truck that doesn't get driven that much).
A couple of weeks ago while driving it, it acted very sluggish. You could mash the accelerator and it would just very slowly run up the speed. It never hesitated or missed, it just got very very sluggish. Checked the codes, no additional codes.
Then it began to stumble when you mashed the gas.
I put new plugs (old one's looked great, other than a huge gap), new wires, new coil pack and started it. Pushed the gas pedal, it just dies.
I look for obvious vacuum leaks and replace a couple of elbows for the PCV and it seems to run a little better. Enough so that I can drive it, but still not running right.
I ordered all the intake gaskets and new isolator bolts and spend Saturday pulling that apart. I didn't do the lower intake because the upper intake gaskets looked so good, I just don't believe this is a intake gasket problem. None the less, I installed the new gaskets on the plenum and upper intake, new isolator bolts, replaced a couple pieces of vacuum hose that looked cracked, started it back up, it ran as smooth as silk.
Convinced I had it fixed, I went for a test drive. Idling, it is as smooth as you could ask for. Pull up to a stop sign, wait, step on the gas and it chokes. Just stumbles and you can hear it almost backfiring and pushing air back through the system.
I've put new PCV, new EGR, new vacuum lines in several places, new upper intake gaskets, new plenum gaskets, new isolator bolts, and even new o-rings on the injectors, and I'm still getting the 0171 and 0174 codes.
With the diagnostics on, I can see voltage varying on all O2 sensors, so I assume they are working (none of them are reading 0 volts). It doesn't throw any other code up, other than the 0171 and 0174.
At this point I feel like I'm replaced every single thing ever mentioned in any 0171 and 0174 thread on the internet. Where to go next? 1 more point, if you very slowly push the gas, it runs fine, but any pressure on it, it bogs down and just stumbles.
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I was driving my '93 Ford Escort and it threw off the serpentine belt that I had just replaced. When I went to replace it, I found that I couldn't get the serpentine belt on because the crankshaft pulley was touching the wheel well/car body.
A friend suggested that it is probably an engine mount issue, and I have replaced the front, and passenger side engine mounts, but that has not solved the problem. I'm planning on checking the rear engine mount and the transmission mount, but I was interested in hearing what else might be causing this?
Other details in case they are relevant: It's the 1.9l engine with 5 speed manual transmission. The engine itself seems to be running fine, except that the crank pulley rubs the wheel well.
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I have a 1999 ford escort 4 door sedan, when the car is cold I can get it to start and it will run just fine, after it starts to warm up, it starts to make a misfire/ sputtering noise when it is starting to die when idling. when I am driving it, there are no signs it is going to die.
I took it to the ford dealership today and they said that I need to replace the fuel pump, and the relay control module.
I just replaced the fuel pump a week ago because I thought that was the problem. So I am thinking it is the Relay Control Module- only problem is I don't know where it is located, where it is?
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This morning on my drive into work I discovered that when trying to accelerate while moving at ~60mph or more the car would shudder and experience a lack of any power at all. If I continued to press down on the accelerator the car would continue to shudder and it would get worse. It felt like an engine stall shudder but constant. If I was below 60mph are tried to accelerate I had no problem, I could continue to accelerate all the way to 70mph, then I would have to slow down for traffic. However after cruising above 60mph and then pressing down on the accelerator I would experience the shuddering. I experienced this issue suddenly with no gradually increasing issues at all.
Car Details:
1993 Ford Escort Wagon LX 1.9L SEF I64K miles
Recently replaced oil, about 2wks ago
Air Filter fine and unobstructed
Car has been getting about 36mpg
Exhaust was replaced about 1 month ago and is unobstructed.
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I have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
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I have a 2003 Ford Escort ZX2. Recently, I've begun to notice issues with the RPM. When I'm not actually giving it gas, such as idling or coasting in neutral, I notice that one of four things start happening:
1) the car stalls outright,
2) the RPM drops from 1000 to around 500 and stays,
3) drops to 500ish then recovers after a few seconds, or
4) acts normal.
Which one is completely random. I am getting OBD codes p0171 and p0420, which points towards either oxygen sensors or the catalytic converter. However, I've been told that it might be the idle air control valve too. Which seems more/less likely? I don't have a lot of money to commit to repairs at the moment, so I am leery of playing trial and error.
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This problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
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I've got a 99 Ford Escort Se 4 door sedan, Automatic trans with about 140k miles on it that randomly stalls when stopping at a red light. It is random and rare, but it does happen.
When it stalls, it sounds and feels like something is mechanically stopping the engine, like maybe it's not disconnecting from the automatic transmission. I can hear the engine working hard as the car slows down, it jumps around in the engine compartment a little bit, then dies as the car comes to a complete stop.
Then I start the car back up, everything is back to normal and I drive away with no further problems for the rest of the trip.
What can cause this? Does this car have a TCC clutch in the torque converter? Is it maybe randomly being falsely triggered to apply at low speed?
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1999 Ford Triton V-10 engine, after changing Oxygen sensors, all vacuum hoses and Mass airflow sensor,(also replaced another sensor but can't think of the name of it right now) now I don't get the codes but engine will start and idle but if I give the engine gas it bogs down and stalls. Vehicle sat in my driveway for 3 months, I got it started and drove it once about 30 miles filled up my gas tank thinking gas could be stale, but now it will not run.
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1993 Golf GL III, automatic: Engine size: 2.0 Date on door 5/1993
I have an intermittent problem, in the morning my car will start fine, idle fine and drive well for about six blocks, but then it suddenly bogs down and goes sluggish like it is not getting gas or not firing correctly. It has not stalled completely, it just bogs down and giving it gas does not do much. I can barely coax the car to my destination about a mile away.
The weird part: A few hours later when I leave this location my car runs fine, starts fine, drives fine and I have no problems the rest of the day. Thus, I only have this problem in the morning, otherwise the car runs great.
Question: Could there be a sensor that is reading incorrectly in the morning, but is fine after it warms up? Perhaps the sensor is messing up the air/gas mixture.
NOTE: My check engine light is on, but I have not figured out how to pull the codes. In the middle console, above the ash tray behind two unused button panels, I have two diagnostic connectors, one black and one white (see photo). I think they may be 2x2 connectors, perhaps OBD1, but I am not sure.
* I have heard a jumper cable can be used to get the codes to blink, but I have not found any documentation to confirm that for this year and model.
* I am also not sure if an OBD2 scanner could read this codes if I use an 16 pin adapter.
Pull codes, either using a jumper or scanner, My local auto parts stores will not pull the codes.
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I have a 96 ford escort, 1.9. Recently I've noticed I get a pretty good vibration coming from the front end.
The vibration only occurs when I'm accelerating over 50. When I decelerate over 50 the vibration goes away.
What could be causing this?
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I have a 97 Escort and recently started having idle problems. It would go up and stay up until I turned off the engine. It would also idle so low that it would stall out when I would stop at a traffic light. A TPS sensor code also appeared. I changed the sensor, but the idling problem continued. During the process of changing the TSP I also cleaned the IAC valve. The car would start with no problems, it just continued to idle rough, with the code returning. I researched how to test the TPS, did the test and discovered I had installed a bad(new)TPS. I reinstalled a new TPS and now the car won't start. WOW, one problem to another. It will turn over, but it will not start.
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I have a 2016 Touareg Lux model with just 600 miles. On multiple occasions, when accelerating out of a slow rolling stop, the car bogs down and almost dies.....until I let off the pedal and gradually ease back on it. I was nearly rear ended recently as a result of the acceleration hesitation. It's almost as if the engine shuts down and is starved of fuel.
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