I have a 2010 Ford Escape. The engine light came on about 10 days ago. I ordered a OBD which arrived the day that the engine light went out (two days ago...) Anyway, the OBD showed a P1490, which, according to google means Secondary Air Relief Solenoid Circuit Malfunction.
View 3 RepliesThe 2005 Avalon has 48K miles and it's been running well without any issues, until today.
Driving in city traffic, max speed is about 30 ml/h, The "Check Engine" light and the "VSC (Vehicle Slip Control) Off" lights came on. I did stop the engine, restarted after couple of minutes and the same lights stayed on. The car ran just fine, no noticeable difference in performance.
With the OBDCOM reader, the Avalon has this code:
P0351 232
P0351 Ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction
That seems to indicate a malfunction for cylinder A, or #1, ignition coil that has nothing to do with the "VSC" AFAIK. Is this a misread by OBDCOM reader, or the Avalon is confused?
The code had been reset via the OBDCOM reader, the car runs fine, neither of the lights come on now. Should I do something about coil A, or just wait until the code comes back?
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
After about 6 months I finally got the alternator replaced in the Tribute. I totally forgot about the CEL that was on for EGR Circuit. I've found a couple of pages ( OBD-II Trouble Code: P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction ) that explain how to diagnose the issue but I was wondering if any other route for something that may be more common than another thing.
View 2 RepliesI got a code for Fuel pump secondary circuit failure, how do you fix it? 1990 Aerostar 4.0 2wd with A/T and A/C
View 14 Repliesok i was just driving my 2004 ford f150 truck and it stopped running. I turned the key and it started back up again and then while on idle it stopped again. I took it too auto zone and it showed a code of p1237 which as far as i can see says fuel pump secondary circuit failure. does that mean i need a new fuel pump and how hard is it to replace.
View 1 RepliesHave an intermittent miss I can feel when driving 2006 F250 5.4 l 4x4 stick; Freeze frame from Cen-Tech 60794 (from Harbor Freight) scanner follows.
DTC CNT 0
DTC FRZF P 0352
FUEL SYS1 OL - FAULT?
FUEL SYS2 --
LOAD PCT 25.9
ELT (DEGREES F) 186
SHRTFT 1 0.0
[Code] ....
I can operate the scanner but what these ranges should be. What might be causing the miss? This scan shows 951 rpm, I was idling along in 1st in traffic, but I have also felt the miss at 75-80 mph (about 2300 rpm) on the Interstate and at other times, with light loads in the 1500- 2000 range in town.
I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
I have a 4r100 in my 2000 f250 7.3. I am getting a P1746-EPC Solenoid, open circuit. Does this mean this particular solenoid in the solenoid body has failed and should i replace the solenoid body?
View 3 RepliesI am getting a code 36 which tells me it is "air switch solenoid switch". I am not sure what that is indicating or what it means. Is this something I can fix?
View 5 RepliesWorking on 2003 Explorer 4x4. Seemed to be running fine till (apparently quite suddenly) it has no power. I have been looking for a vacuum leak. tested with vacuum tester and was showing signs of EGR Solenoid malfunction. So... off with the intake manifold and replaced the EGR solenoid and PCV. No improvement on power.
What triggers the EGR solenoid to pull the vacuum to the EGR Valve? I am wondering if the what is supposed to trigger the Solenoid is working properly. It was not pulling a vacuum on acceleration, most of the time. Ever now and again it would and when it did it would drop when you let go of the gas, as it should. Getting it to pull a vacuum was the problem. I have a vacuum of about 15 from the intake manifold.
P0403 code that came up on our 2004 Escape 3.0.
Weekend before last I dropped the oil pan, cleaned it and the pickup screen out, and replaced the gasket (switching to full synthetic has been a double edged sword with the leaks that are popping up...); put in new plugs new upper intake manifold gasket and cleaned the throttle body and manifold out. All vacuum hoses inline with the EGR solenoid have also been replaced since the light went on.
While driving the following day the check engine light (CEL) came on and when checked at pep boys read P0403 (no other codes for low EGR flow, etc.). Now, the EGR solenoid is the newest non-regular maintenance item under that hood because the same code came up a couple of years ago (a new solenoid from pep boys fixed that lickety split) so I wasn't overly concerned that it had popped up again, but a bit frustrated that the solenoid only lasted as long as it did. Also, since the light popped up, I have replaced a couple of vacuum lines with some generic 4mm ID (5/32", I think) rubber vacuum hose, but that just headed off what looked like some potential future problem leaks.
Now, here I am a couple of weeks later having tried 4.5 new solenoids (Amazon sent me one with the wrong wiring harness clip so I couldn't verify that it was connected when it didn't work), and thrown some other "just in case" parts at it (new EGR valve and flow sensor, but these may be returned, but may just end up keeping them on, we'll see how things work out). I'm getting a solid reading from the hot lead on the solenoid harness at idle and during static revving, but I can't seem to get anything on the ground pin.
I've cleaned the connections and the larger pin block going into the top of the firewall to no avail. Should this read as a fluttering ground signal all the time, is it only grounded exactly when it wants the solenoid to open the EGR? What can I do to confirm that it should read grounded so I can know one way or the other whether there is a break in the line? I can't find my multimeter (or just dreamed that I picked one up last year). I'm also curious as to whether or not there's a good way to bench test the solenoid. I don't really get a reaction when I hook it up to 12v directly like I do with a vacuum solenoid from my Saab where there's an audible "click."
Is the wire harness for the solenoid a known weak spot? I've found two potential donors at the local junk yard that I can cut the wires out of to play around with/solder a new one in if that's something that the consensus deems may solve my cause. I also had an ABS light come on not too long after the CEL, but when I reset the CEL the ABS light went away and never came back (it only came on when I hit a big expansion joint on a highway bridge, no braking issues since it's been reset and ABS seems to be fully functional, per gravel road test). I still can't seem to read any ground signal at the solenoid harness at idle or with throttle input. I'd like to fix it, but don't want to start digging into the wires blind.
How can I fix the P0741 engine code? Vehicle has 100k mileage.
Some of the on and off symptoms: loss of power, doesn't go over 40mph on the bridge, rpm dramatically goes high at low speed, lower mpg.
I did a tune-up: [URL] .... 2Bplugs, engine, coolant, [URL] .... 2Bfluid, steering, ignition coils, short ram intake filter cleaned.
I found the fault codes, I need the steps to fix them.
P0760 - Shift Solenoid,
CP0755 - Shift Solenoid
BP0340 - Camshaft piston sensor "A" Circuit
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit
I'd like to think it's as easy as replacing the sensors, but it never is.
My old 97 f-150's 4R70W started slipping.....so I just installed a rebuilt 98 f-150 unit that had about 10,000 miles on it and also has a transgo shift kit. Got it finished today....and.....
I have an check engine light code p0750 "shift solenoid A malfunction"........when leaving from a stop in Drive, the truck starts going in 2nd gear and just skips 1st gear all together. If I manually shift it, then 1st works fine and shifts through all the gears fine.
But in Drive.. it skips 1st. What to do? or what could be the problem? Where is this solenoid? Can I swap the one out of my old tranny into this one without pulling the whole tranny apart? (I don't mind dropping the pan though...) Or could i have a bad connection somewhere maybe?
Also....When the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd the rpms jump about 500 rpm before they drop...kind of seems excessive. Could this be caused by the shift solenoid A malfunction?
I'm pulling a P0403 EGR circuit fault on a 2004 v6 Escape.
Last night I changed out the EGR solenoid. Cleared the code and drove around for a while, got on the highway and cruised for a few miles and everything seemed fine. Turn the car off and back on and the code showed up again.
My next step will be to check the electrical connection to the solenoid. I don't do a lot of auto repair.
With my multimeter I will check for 12 volts. But from what I understand I can not check ground as the PCM sends ground to the solenoid to activate it. How should I check the electrical connections to the EGR solenoid?
I do not know the 5.4l 3v as well as my last 360ci dodge. It's a 2005 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4, got it cheap, and it's got issues. Got codes for misfire on cylinders 4 and 5 and Coil 'D' circuit malfunction. Obviously it has codes for limited power as well. was wondering how cylinder numbering goes and what coil is 'D'.
View 6 RepliesI was plowing and when I put it in reverse it felt like it slipped, but then the dash message trans malfunction came up. I checked the codes and I got P0722 output shaft speed sensor.
Code P0720 (oss) sensor circuit fault
Then the truck went into safe mods. Is it just the sensor or is my reverse going out...
Yesterday driving to work felt the engine missing, on the way home got a CEL pulled the code when I got home it was P0302, so I started with the easy and put a new coil pack, same issue, so I prayed and pulled the plug (it didn't break). Put a new plug and a second new coil pack (just to be sure, and yes I keep extras dang 5.4). cleared codes and started it this time got P0202 Ford - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 2, so I checked Ohms on #2 and it was 12.6, #1, 3, 5,6 all have 13 Ohms, didn't check #4, 7, or 8 because my big hands and the probes on my multi meter. Checked the wires on all of them and have 12 volts with key on, not running. I read another check to put blk in pin and red on pos batt terminal, and that it was supposed to go 12 to 0 off and on with engine running, All of mine went up to 14 volts and stayed no switching. Is there something I am missing to check before replacing the injector on #2?
View 6 RepliesI recently acquired a 2003 Dodge Neon and have also aquired a problem with the automatic transmission.The check engine light was on so I read the codes and they are noted below
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
Based upon some very basic research, I checked into replacing the Transmission Control solenoid.It sounded like this is a pretty common problem for this transmission, so hopefully this would fix the problem.
I was able to get the old one pulled off without to much trouble, but prir to installing the new one I was wondering if there would be a way to test the old one to verify that it was actually bad. I would prefer to not install the new $150 part only to find out that this was not the problem. (and then I could not return it once it had been installed) Maybe some low air pressure on the ports and verify that the ports / flow changes if 12 VDC is applied to the right pins?
A little more information in regards to the "failure" mode. The transmission appears to act the same no matter if it is placed in 1,3 or D. (reverse works fine) I would have expected that it would limit out with the motor taching up pretty high at about 20 MPH in 1(low). It goes down the road fine up to about 55 mph and then the engine starts taching up.
I also tried to reset the error codes with my "craftsman" code reader and it would not do it. I seem to recall seeing something about needing to reset codes before the new solenoid would work. Will pulling the battery for an hour clear the code? Do I need to clear the code?