Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Water In Gas Tank?
Dec 1, 2014
How can I test to find out if there is water in my fuel tank , fuel lines, etc. The symptoms are obvious, how do I test for sure. In the event that I'm correct, what can I do to get it out of the tank and fuel system.
I suspect that a lower form of life has put water in the gas tank of my 2003 Escape 3.0L . I sent it to a shop, that was a nightmare . They came up with every misfire and etc. Including bad windshield wipers burned out light bulbs .
Trying to sell me new coils plugs , etc etc ... even though I kept telling them that of course its misfiring if there is water in the fuel. Please test for water in the gas .
I finally went and took the car with intake plenum pulled off. Paid them half of R&R for pulling the plenum and I'm back to square one. They did everything but check for water in my gas tank or fuel lines.
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Water leak at the rear hatch. The water is coming in from the door, not the glass. I have wiped the weatherstrip clean, in case some debris was stopping it from achieving a complete seal. It is also happening on both sides.
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How to change belt on water pump on my 08 V6 the hayness says there is a tensioner on the v6 well i am stumped cant find it so ....... Belt is tight I see no way to get slack in belt to change it .top pulley and pump pulley is all i see...
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Where I should start looking for the root cause of the following leak? My wife noticed that when it was raining water dripped off the handhold by the front passenger seat. The ceiling liner is dry, no evidence of water soaking into it. I am thinking windshield or door seal as there is no moon roof and the liner is dry but before I start tearing into it I want to see if there is even a chance I can fix it myself.
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i have a 2008 xlt ford escape and i have coolant leaking issues, my reservoir would empty so i had to refill it with water. and then i let the car run but nothing leaked so i turned the AC on and it started leaking so i investigated further and identified the source. i, am not sure what is it, it might be a lose hose or something else.
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In this video I go over what is becoming more and more of an issue with this generation of Escapes due to the poor lift gate glass seal leaking rain water into the latch and electronics in the lift gate. I go over the cause, how to gain access, diagnosis, and of course repair.
Ford Escape Liftgate Won't Open- Repair - YouTube .....
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2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
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I am finding that after a heavy rain that water is running out of the bottom of all four door drain holes when I open them.I have not noticed this on any other of my previous vehicles.Is it "a" good that they are draining well, or "b" bad that water is getting in in the first place?
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Is it true that if your drain lines are clogged water will backflow to the relay in the fuse box?
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From all I can see, the fuel tank capacity on my '12 should be 17.5 gallons.
As I finish up a trip with it, I know I've "pushed the envelope" as far as fuel range is according to the guage/computer. I get the warning that I need to refuel and that I have 50 miles to empty, but I've driven 40 miles into that last range before refueling, and only been able to put 14 or so gallons into the tank.
My question is: If I were to drive until it literally runs out of gas, then fill it, would the guage/computer recalibrate or do I need to install a new fuel sensor?
I get the warning as the guage indicates just under 1/4 tank remaining, and I have yet to run it until the guage indicates that it's actually on empty (family and dog are with me so risking it is currently out). I'm hoping that the guage itself knows what the real deal is and that the computer is just not with it.... OH, FWIW full is EXACTLY on the "full" line and not over as in my Kia.
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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Background: No A/C. Identified Clutch had completely failed. I replaced the clutch.
Status: I turned on the A/C and I saw the clutch come on...it was on for maybe 60s. During that time, the vents started to get cold! After 60s it never came on again.
Troubleshooting: I have refrigeration gauges but not much idea how to read the result. I hooked them up and noted about 350psi for the HP side, and about 100psi for the LP side. I think this tells me I should have enough charge in the system to cycle the compressor.
At this point I don't want to start random troubleshooting as I don't want to touch the refrigerant loop more than necessary. A few questions:
1) The HPCO switch, I was reading that it's mounted on a Shrader valve. Is this the case? I'd like to remove it and test at which point it switches. I have not tried bypassing it.
2) Do our vehicles have a temperature sensor near the evaporator? If so, whereabouts is it located?
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My 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
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I just bought a 2010 Escape XLT 4 cyl. The mpg is showing to be 16.7, which is really low compared to what it's supposed to be. I bought it off of a car lot and it had been discounted so I'm guessing it was sitting there for a while before it was sold. Do you think that would cause the mpg to be low? I've driven it on the highway and around town. I've had it for 2 days, but it's freaking me out thinking that there is something wrong with it.
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2005 Ford Escape 4 cyl240,000 miles. Every time i fill up the gas tank and then drive for a while, either the next time i start the car or while i'm driving, the engine will begin to misfire, lose power, and eventually stall. It won't start again, or will start but misfire so much that it stalls again. If I wait 20 or 30 minutes or over night, then it will start up and run fine until i fill the tank again a days or so later.
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Get a set of real gauges if you want to do diagnostics. 110 psi on the low side indicates that the system isn't running at the time and that the underhood temp is around 100 F.
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Ok, so I've got a little of an odd issue. It seems that no matter what I do, the AC is always active. Today I reverse flushed the heater core in my 02 Escape, and verified all hoses were clear. I replaced the thermostat housing (other thread) along with a new thermostat.
But, when I run the car, even with the heat full up and the selector set to the defroster and floor, the ac still blows ICE cold. It seems like it is still engaged no matter what. Winter is coming and I dont want my daughter to freeze (her truck).
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Had to change the alternator in the 3.0l fwd escape. if some one knows of an easy way to get it out i would love to know. We had to take the manifold cover off right down to the "o" rings as well as what ever we could undo to make a gap between the engine and the fire wall. it took us so long that the repair shop was closed and we had to leave my engine apart overnight with tissue stuffed in the pistons. The one part you know your going to have to get to to fix, and it's almost impossible to get at. It would have been easier to tilt the engine, but we had no hoist, is there an easier way...
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I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
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My daughters 2010 Escape (V6 - 3.0L motor) had the check engine light come on back in February, while she was away at school. Well, now she is home and I want to fix it. I have tried all the things I can think of and have found on the web, but no success. I pulled the whole Evap canister assembly down and tested the Evap vent solenoid by itself, and it works (opens and closes). Physically can see if cycle when I apply 12v to it. When I reinstalled it I cleaned up the o-rings and lightly greased them up to seal better in case they were leaking by. Before pulling the whole unit down, I checked and with the key on, there is 12v on the plug feeding this solenoid, but I physically wanted to see it move and it looks good.
Next, I pulled the hose feeding the top of the purge valve, located under the hood, to see if I had vacuum leaking when the car was running. I did not, so if I understand the operation correctly, I am good there as well. What else could be causing the car to dump this code??
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I had a misfire and my CEL came on had it read and it said cylinder 4 was misfiring and that there was a misfire in the first 1,000 RPM's. I replaced the COP and plug and now I'm getting terrible MPG. I tried to reset the PCM by removing the Neg. battery connection and it seemed to work for 4 days now my MPG has gone bad again. It seems to run smooth/good.
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