Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Theft Light Coming On Randomly / Vehicle Shut Off While Going Down The Road
Oct 19, 2008
I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
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I have a 2003 Ford Escape Limited V6 replaced thermostat and fuel pump and 3 coils and 3 spark plugs recently. Now the theft light has come on and will not crank or start. The fuel pump is still not working unless I manually press the fuse under the hood which is also the only way the car will crank still will not start. That's because the previous owner got the key stuck in the ignition so he bypassed it with a dial you can turn. The dial will put the car into ACC and on mode but will not get the car to crank. Also btn1 and btn2 fuses under the hood are draining my battery.
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My "Theft" light on my 2005 Ford Escape is flashing and I cannot start the Escape.
1. I tried the key that I had been using successfully for the last 7 years. , car did not start, Theft light blinked. ,
2. Tried wife's dealer key, Car won't start, theft light blinks.
3. Tried various things, such as manual locking & unlocking, turning alarm beeping on/off, disconnecting battery, etc. Nothing works.
Called the dealer, they say they know nothing. Must bring car in, they say. Basically I am screwed and now must spend big bucks to take it the dealer because of Ford's software bug.
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On my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
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My 2005 prius with 81k on it just had the Hybrid vehicle immobilizer / Theft deterrent system indicator light spontaneously come on during a road trip where she was heavily loaded for the very first time since I have owned her for over 10 years. I stopped at a rest area and when I got back in it was on...immediately my batteries started draining. They are in 50wh mode which has never happened before, and charge will driving, but if I shut down for even a few minutes they are drained again. The dealer told me this was nothing to worry about and that as soon as they fully charged this would stop.
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I have a 2002 Escape XLT V6 4X4. I searched the issue, but others' symptoms don't seem to be quite the same as what I'm seeing. Over the last few weeks, the battery light has randomly come on and off 3 separate times:
- 1st time, light came on at highway speed for about 30 sec and went out. Didn't come back on. Was during daytime, running DRL's, radio (no amp or subs or anything like that, and heater blower on low speed.
- 2nd time was two weeks later or so. Happened at night with just headlights on at around 55mph (RPMs about 2K or so). Again, stayed on for about 30 sec and went out.
- 3rd time was about a week/week and a half later, yesterday morning. Just running DRL's and radio. Light came on, flickered, came on, and then stayed on for a couple of minutes (all at highway speed). I noticed that if I disengaged the overdrive and got the RPMs up, the light would go out. I ran it out of overdrive for about 2 minutes like that, and the light stayed out. Speed limit dropped to 40mph, and the light came back on (lower RPMs at that speed, didn't run it in low gears). Light stayed on for 30 sec - 1 minute, and then went out on its own and has since stayed off.
I took it to Advance yesterday to have it tested, and the results were that it is charging at 13.9V under no load, and 13.87V under a load. The battery tested good, but the machine said it needed to be charged (it hasn't been acting low...car starts just fine).
I'm driving it to work today to see what it does next, and then getting it tested again on my way home. Has anyone here ever had similar symptoms as above? Does this sound like bad diodes in the alternator?
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So my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
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The factory installed passive anti theft alarm keeps going off without external cause. Went to dealership to have them do the scan and all alarms point to the right rear-door. They suggest replacing the latch. This same latch was replaced 13 months ago for same problem. They will not honor the now out of date 12 month replacement warranty. They said they have checked the wiring and all looks OK. Must be the latch. I only have 30,000 miles on the vehicle and this is a rarely used door, yet I have to replace the same latch again?? Can the door ajar module be replaced separately and would it be less expensive to do so?
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT V6 and I am experiencing a major loss of power in the vehicle. It idles smooth at about 1000rpm's but when you drive it , the vehicle won't go over 30mph and has a significant miss to it. I replaced the fuel filter, put in some Seafoam and took it for a drive and it still did not have any power and I blew out the EGR valve on the test drive. I replaced the EGR valve and the problem still remains. I hooked up a handheld computer to it and I got a P0300, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0316 and a P0355 error codes.
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I have a 2006 Escape with a 4cyl. 2.3L automatic gas engine. Recently when going down the road my serpentine belt broke. I purchased a new one and attempted to install it. However, after routing it over all the pulleys there is still a significant amount of slack. Keep in mind when putting the new one on I didn't even have to move the tension pulley. Upon starting the vehicle I was able to see that all of the pulleys were moving and doing what was expected.
However, there is a great deal of squealing and risk that the belt with be thrown off or broken. I researched and am fairly certain that it is in fact the correct size belt as all the sites indicate the same part number and size. Could this be the result of a bad tension pulley that needs to be replaced? Need access to the routing diagram in case I may have put it on incorrectly? Am I missing some other form of adjusting the tension in the belt?
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Why do I get an electrical shock when I touch my 2005 Escape? It's not like I drag my feet on a carpet prior to touching it. I had same issue on an other vehicle. It is very annoying - what should I do?
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I have a 2006 escape 4cyl. 2 wheel drive. The instrument panel goes out randomly...
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My 2003 ford escape wont shut off with the key off and out of ignition as long as the air conditioning running once I shut the air off the car will shut off. Where to start.
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Well, not an escape, it is a mazda tribute. but it is the same thing as an escape. My sister just called. as she is driving down the road, if she lets off the throttle the engine will randomly die. it did it 2 times sunday, once yesterday, and once today, as she was talking to me. It will not die at traffic lights, just as you let off the throttle sometimes. today it did it at 45 mph. When it dies she just pops it in neutral, restarts it, puts it back in drive, and it is fine. No check engine light after restarting. What I should look at when she brings it over this weekend?
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I just picked up a 2004 ford escape and information is difficult for me to obtain. Person I purchased from had all new suspension installed. Says it needs new transmission.
My indications: Vehicle starts right up dies/stalls with anything above throttle. Major lack of power. Was able to put in Reverse and it moved a bit and same as drive. Smoke from rear of engine. Seems like coolant dumping into exhaust. shake on exhaust you can hear slosh slosh in exhaust.
No engine trouble codes no lights on dash.
Am I looking at a headgasket? This has the 3.0 duratec v6 with the water pump belt driven by the cam on the driver side. Open up the oil cap there is the timing chain. serpentine belt is on passenger side of engine. There is no coolant/water in the engine oil but the coolant is disappearing FAST. no coolant on spark plugs that indicate its in the cylendars.
Was going to check compression but the compression tester I have only threads up to 14mm. to small for the hole. I can probably rent a tester with proper sizes if needed. Fuel pressure at the rail primes to 60 psi and stays there. Stays at 60 psi while running as well.
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I have a 2005 Escape with about 98,000 miles on it. For a while I have been having problems with the rear glass not registering that it is closed. It does close and latch tight, but the dash shows that there is still a door open. Now I am having issues with the PATS. The alarm goes off randomly when trying to start the car and when I stop the car and take my key out of the ignition. I am thinking these two issues are related. Is there a sensor on the rear window hatch that may be malfunctioning? And would this cause the stock alarm system to sound?
Edit: I have read another site that suggested spraying WD-40 into the latch then open and close it a few times...Does this sound legitimate?
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After driving and shut off and restarting like going into gas station etc idles up pretty high for a while no matter if it is hot or cold outside and have to wait 30- 60 secs to come down to normal...
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I am running into some issues with my 2011 Escape 2.5L. I am pulling a total of 7 codes. Two codes keep repeating, which those are P0455 and P0457. And I am also getting a C1963. Accompanying the engine codes, my HUD is displaying "Check Fuel Inlet" when I first turn the vehicle on.
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I've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
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Having issues with transmission fluid spewing out the dipstick hole? Truck is an 04 Escape and has worked great until I had a rear manifold leaking. I took the truck to our mechanic and he replaced the rear manifold cat converter. He broke 3 of the 4 bolts so he told me he had to roll the engine forward to gain access to tap out the broken bolts. Im sure he took the throttle body and intake off for more room. I Got the truck back and noticed transmission fluid all over my driveway the next day. I contacted the mechanic and he states it was nothing he did and cannot figure why this is happening. Basically told me to fly a kite!
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I went to drive our Escape but when I pressed on the brake to switch it to drive, I heard a clicking sound coming from the center console, the brake pedal went all the way to the floor and there was a high pitched whining sound coming from the engine. I turn the car off and call up ADAC (Germany's road side assistance) and they come and find out part of a hose is missing from the engine and stick something on the end of it and the brakes worked fine. They did recommend I take it in to get it checked out but the mechanic here that speaks English doesn't have access to Ford parts. 2010 Ford Escape XLS 2.5L .....
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