Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Stalls Once It Warms Up Like Ignition Is Switched Off
Jul 11, 2017
The car has 130K on the clock, and I don't know if she's had the plugs replaced, but the car has been stalling on her suddenly once it warms up, like the ignition switch is switched off. Then, once it cools down for a night, it runs again. If it only cools down for an hour or two, it will run but only for a few miles before quitting again. I'm thinking a sensor, pcm, or coils, but I'm hoping there's some way to narrow this down a little bit.
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2004 Ford Escape 2WD 3.0L with about 81,000 miles.
Problem: 2 possibly related
1) If warm up (get to about 190+ degrees) and then cut off engine. Does not start. If I wait about 30 secs and play the gas pedal, then I can get it to start with high revs and after about 15 secs runs normally. Or, I can disconnect the air intake and it'll start fine. But if you stop and try to start again, no joy unless playing with gas pedal.
2) After driving about 20-25 mins, it seems to randomly stall-out while going about 40 mph. When it stalls out, it will restart again after about 30 secs.
Note: Neither of the above throw any codes.
Here's my problem chart after mining the other posts:
Thing to replace/do //// No Code /// Stall while driving /// Won't restart when hot
Fuel Pump //// Yes /// Yes /// Doubt it
Fuel Filter //// Yes /// Yes /// Don't think so
CKP Sensor //// Yes /// Yes /// Yes
CMP Sensor //// Unlikely /// ? /// Possibly
ECT //// Maybe? /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
IAC Valve //// Unlikely /// Yes /// No
Thermostat //// Yes /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
MAF sensor //// Unlikely /// No /// Yes
What I've done:
- Well, I started looking at the vacuum lines and they were crumbling so I replaced all those (to EGR and all that).
- There is a mystery line that appears to come up from the canister and go to nothing--is this some kind of atmospheric vent?
- My cheap scan tool also shows engine temps getting up to 216 degrees if I make it work (idle high at 2000+ rpm), so I'm suspicious of the cooling system and thinking maybe the ECU is shutting down to avoid overheating.
I'm going to start with flushing the coolant and replacing the ECT and thermostat while doing so. This is relatively inexpensive and ECT can do weird things. The restart problem is consistent, so I'll know if I fixed that right away.
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2002 3.0L escape 4WD, stalled twice on me when shifting into reverse after a complete stop. No CEL, truck started right up again....
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My wife's 08 Escape has an issue with the ignition key actually sticking in spots when turning to the start position, then we almost have to turn it back to the run position, it doesn't spring back like it used to, and should do. It's an 08 Escape, XLT V6 AWD, auto transmission.
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2010 Escape with 74,000 miles. Backstory: This is my daughters car who is away at college about 300 miles away. About a year ago the engine started hesitating when driving and would stall to idle at highway speeds. She took the car in to dealer and they replaced the Throttle body under the CSP that had been issued just prior to the dealer visit. All was fine for about 3 months, then she reports that the car is doing the same thing. Check engine light briefly illuminates and goes right back off when this occurs. She is able to slip the car into neutral and it seems to correct the malfunction. Unfortunately she has gotten so good at this that she keeps her hand on the gearshift when driving. It seems to happen at various speeds with no warning and no lasting effects.
She came to visit for Christmas and I was able to replicate the problem after about 30 minutes of city driving, but not quick enough to take a picture of the wrench that illuminated briefly. I slowed to the edge of the road, put it in park and turned off the key (engine ran the whole time at idle). Cranked back up and good to go! She had the oil changed about a thousand miles ago, I replaced the air filter last night and she had to return to her house for work in the next couple of days. She said it happened 5 times on the way home last night.
Car has always been serviced regularly and was a certified pre-owned when we bought it in March or so of 2012. I also bought the extended warranty although that may be expired by now.
Her local dealer said they can't fix it if the CEL is not on or the problem is not occurring at the exact time they have it in the shop. Now, I am not sure but was under the impression that the computer would record any codes and store them even if the light went off and the car returned to normal.
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My 2003 escape stalls from park to reverse and drive,not all the time but when warmed up. IAC motor replaced and still stalls.
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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I had squirrels eat wires to the front 3 Ignition coil connector on my a 2005 ford escape XLT,my question is the new connectors have a white and black wire and the old ones had a red and a colored wire, but comparing both old and new connectors I notice the new connector has the black wire where the old connector has a red, so do I use the black wire to replace the old Red? , it's rather confusing to me when you plug in the new connector you can see the black wire is where the red wire was on the old one, or does it matter which wire goes where?
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Posted earlier with my escape randomly stalling at idle. Getting a code po446 along with po511. Only stalls at idle after warming up and letting it set a while. When you go to recrank it that is when it won't idle or if it does its at 500 rpms or less. Also after driving it today it smells like rotten eggs. Replaced the idle control valve with no luck. What could cause this?
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I just picked up a 2004 ford escape and information is difficult for me to obtain. Person I purchased from had all new suspension installed. Says it needs new transmission.
My indications: Vehicle starts right up dies/stalls with anything above throttle. Major lack of power. Was able to put in Reverse and it moved a bit and same as drive. Smoke from rear of engine. Seems like coolant dumping into exhaust. shake on exhaust you can hear slosh slosh in exhaust.
No engine trouble codes no lights on dash.
Am I looking at a headgasket? This has the 3.0 duratec v6 with the water pump belt driven by the cam on the driver side. Open up the oil cap there is the timing chain. serpentine belt is on passenger side of engine. There is no coolant/water in the engine oil but the coolant is disappearing FAST. no coolant on spark plugs that indicate its in the cylendars.
Was going to check compression but the compression tester I have only threads up to 14mm. to small for the hole. I can probably rent a tester with proper sizes if needed. Fuel pressure at the rail primes to 60 psi and stays there. Stays at 60 psi while running as well.
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My1988 ford ranger 2.9ltr stalls when driving or after it warms up. Will restart most of time a few minutes later. Runs smoothly till it dies. Changed fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. Drives for miles before it stalls sometimes.
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I'm rocking a 2005 Ford Excursion with the 6.0L PSD. When the Ignition key is switched ON prior to starting, the injectors cycle in a priming sequence.
What I need to know from owners here, is how does that sequence sound to you? Does it start slow and then increase in speed until it's complete, sounding like a rise in pitch? Or does it just make the same sound the whole way through?
Trying to debug a random no-start and I'm trying different theories. Current suspect is the FICM, despite the OBDII always reporting 47V - 48V. For me, the priming sequence starts slow and then runs faster until it's complete. Trying to figure out if it should sound the same the whole way through.
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer that when it starts in the morning sounds like a tractor and stalls out till it warms up after 5-10 minutes. This is of course wasting gas and I've replaced spark plugs and wires and 2 oxygen sensors. After the truck warms up it runs fine but it's very frustrating in the morning and good that I have a strong battery-check engine light is on-what could be the problem?
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I am the very proud owner of a (European) blue 04 V10 with around 65k on the clock, having taken delivery in the spring, it's put a smile on my face almost every day that I've driven it. That's the great part! As with all cars I have some niggles, but yesterday my lovely analogue clock stopped (along with the back illumination) at the moment I switched off the ignition following my 5 mile commute to the office. I suspected a fuse, but on checking the fuse plan in the manual, I couldn't work out which one would be responsible. I will shortly begin removing and inspecting fuses, but I was wondering if this had happened to any other members and what fix was required to get the lovely clock going again. One other bit of information that may be relevant is that it was the first morning that I'd used the heated seat and heated steering wheel since buying the car.
Other minor niggle is that the parking sensors have never worked (I suspect a paint job is responsible).
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Is there any way to disable the driver seat from moving all the way back when the ignition is switched off and the door is opened? The seat being all the way back makes it much more difficult to get my son in and out of his child seat in the back. Also, I'm not obese nor do I have mobility problems so the seat moving out of the way is a complete waste for me!
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To install my FLIR system I need a 12V power supply, ideally switched with my Gen III's ignition switch. Where in the engine compartment can I find that?
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My 1994 Chevy Lumina drives great when its in motion but when it warms up it will stall when your at a stop light. It does great at a quick stop, like a short red light or a stop sign but when I am sitting at a long red light it just stalls. It will start right back up but this is annoying. Recently the car radiator was replaced, so the car over heated. What could the problem be?
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My fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
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Background: No A/C. Identified Clutch had completely failed. I replaced the clutch.
Status: I turned on the A/C and I saw the clutch come on...it was on for maybe 60s. During that time, the vents started to get cold! After 60s it never came on again.
Troubleshooting: I have refrigeration gauges but not much idea how to read the result. I hooked them up and noted about 350psi for the HP side, and about 100psi for the LP side. I think this tells me I should have enough charge in the system to cycle the compressor.
At this point I don't want to start random troubleshooting as I don't want to touch the refrigerant loop more than necessary. A few questions:
1) The HPCO switch, I was reading that it's mounted on a Shrader valve. Is this the case? I'd like to remove it and test at which point it switches. I have not tried bypassing it.
2) Do our vehicles have a temperature sensor near the evaporator? If so, whereabouts is it located?
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My 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
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