Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Small Panel Insert Around Door Handle Has Vinyl / Leather Coming Off
Dec 24, 2007
My daughter has a 2001 Ford Escape. The small panel insert around the door handle has the vinyl/leather coming off. How do I remove this without taking the whole door panel, the large one covering the window, off? I do know what I have to do to reattach this fabric, just cant seem to get teh small panel to come off.
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Had to get a replacement door due to a wreck. It's from a salvage yard, painted and ready to install except I want to swap my door handle over because of the key lock. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove this thing. I've got it unbolted and it'll move all around, just not slide out.
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One of my door panels vinyl wrap is peeling off... there is like a big bubble now... Is this cover under warranty by any chance??
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I need to find a diagram of the door panel on the drivers front door. Need to see how to remove the switch bezel to check the power window switches.
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I have a 2006 escape 4cyl. 2 wheel drive. The instrument panel goes out randomly...
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I have a 2011 Escape. When I punch in the entry 5 digit code on the door post, I hear a small "click" and the parking lights come on. The door locks, however, do not operate. When I use the key fob the locks do work. What the problem is?
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Owner of a 2005 Escape and trying to figure out which relay on the interior fuse panel is the Accessory Delay relay. I think this might be causing a battery drain when everything is shut down. A diagram of the relay side of the panel.
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My '99 Super Duty does NOT have power windows; old school cranks. The door panel(s) are "no frilz", no storage pockets. I want to know if it's possible to get panels that DO have pockets and will "fit" my crank handles?
I could always just drill a hole into a door panel that has the pockets for the window crank, but, they all seem to come with power window setups (opening for all the power switches). Also, where I can get rugs to cover the floor - I just have a rubbery/plastic surface.
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2001 ford escape. cannot open back door and glass. there is no kep option, only auto and they are not working. checked fuses, all other doors working fine, I was hoping to move this weekend and need to get in the back door. Is there any safety latch? or possible child lock?
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I wanted to try FordJunkyNC's way to run a jumper to stop the alarm from going off, but my problem is the passenger front, not the rear... different color coding on the wires..
Jumped the passenger front door? If so, which wires did you jump? Want to jump the 06 Escape doors, just don't want to short anything out...
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I have a VW Jetta 2012 and I would like to know how to take out only the leather from the Emergency brake handle as shown in the picture.
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My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
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The passenger door on my 2002 Escape is locked and the power lock is not working on that door. The door is closed, how to get it open.
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My front interior light/map lights combination does not come on when the doors open. The rear seat and cargo area lights work when the doors open. Do the front interior lights are not designed to work in conjunction with the other lights when the door is opened?
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I am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30.
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I've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
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I had my '09 F-150 Super Crew lock punched out on driver side door. To prevent this from happening again, I am replacing that handle with a handle for the rear door that has NO lock. I will no longer have key access to the truck. I am also ordering a spare remote. Is there anything I should consider before following through with this decision? Why I shouldn't do this? Is this a common thing to do?
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I am finding that after a heavy rain that water is running out of the bottom of all four door drain holes when I open them.I have not noticed this on any other of my previous vehicles.Is it "a" good that they are draining well, or "b" bad that water is getting in in the first place?
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Having issues with transmission fluid spewing out the dipstick hole? Truck is an 04 Escape and has worked great until I had a rear manifold leaking. I took the truck to our mechanic and he replaced the rear manifold cat converter. He broke 3 of the 4 bolts so he told me he had to roll the engine forward to gain access to tap out the broken bolts. Im sure he took the throttle body and intake off for more room. I Got the truck back and noticed transmission fluid all over my driveway the next day. I contacted the mechanic and he states it was nothing he did and cannot figure why this is happening. Basically told me to fly a kite!
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I went to drive our Escape but when I pressed on the brake to switch it to drive, I heard a clicking sound coming from the center console, the brake pedal went all the way to the floor and there was a high pitched whining sound coming from the engine. I turn the car off and call up ADAC (Germany's road side assistance) and they come and find out part of a hose is missing from the engine and stick something on the end of it and the brakes worked fine. They did recommend I take it in to get it checked out but the mechanic here that speaks English doesn't have access to Ford parts. 2010 Ford Escape XLS 2.5L .....
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I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
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