Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Slow Reaction Fuel Gauge / Whirring Noise When Shutting Off The Car And Turning It Back On
Mar 12, 2014
My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
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2001 Escape 4x4, automatic trans 4x4
Getting a pretty loud "whirring" or humming noise from under the car while driving 30+ mph. It seems like a wheel bearing noise, but coming from directly under the center console area. My thoughts are either the driveshaft center support or the transfer case, I can't find much on it though.
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A friend has 2005 escape 3l. He called me yesterday saying that he needed replacing his fuel pump.
Before I got to his place he had already replaced the fuel filter...
We got the pump replaced, and when we went to start the vehicle, it still wouldn't start.
We double checked to make sure everything was connected and plugged in and it was. We checked all fuses, and they were all good.
This morning I am going to try jumping the relay and see if that does anything. What else to check?
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Today after school I hopped into my car and turned it on, it made a weird clanking kind of sound, but then sounded normal. I turned it off and it did the same thing again. I put the car into drive and it was so slow accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it was barely catching speed while my rpm was somewhere in the 5000's. I got home and I don't know what to do. ALSO, when my Escape is at a stoplight, it turns off and shows the engine light. What's going on. I had to put my car into park, re-ignite the car and go through, again, acceleration tremendously slow. It is a Ford Escape 2001 XLT with a new engine with 80k miles on it.
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2005 2.3Liter 4wd Mariner, 225k miles
I have been experiencing clunk noise on the front end when braking or accelerating and turning wheels.
I have replaced: front control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and stabilizer links and 2 days ago I replaced strut mounts and bearings.
The steering is smooth after the strut mounts replaced but I can still hear cluck noise mostly on left now when going over bumps, braking and accelerating.
Car also has new engine/trans mounts.
I am so lost right now because I cannot figure out what is it. The only thing I didn't replace are the struts but the I test them and they seem to function fine.
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ACCessory power (Key On) 12v can take anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes after the engine is on. Haven't tried leaving key on engine off for that long, but I would assume it would eventually give power to ACC too.
There is the greenishyellow and black wire to the sound system which is supposed to be key on 12v, and the lower power port (cig lighter type) only gets power after key on.
Its been doing this for years...and I swear it happened after one night of leaving the lights on. Battery has been replaced since, but ever since that once time.
It does always come on, eventually. Doesn't matter if warm or not. If you turn off key, it takes random 2 to 10 minutes to get power back to ACC.
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I notice the gas nozzle clicks off all the time when I am filling my truck. Normally I just hold the nozzle up more and it seems to work.
F250. Slow fuel fill or fill nozzle keeps shutting off....
[URL] .....
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2001 ford escape. cannot open back door and glass. there is no kep option, only auto and they are not working. checked fuses, all other doors working fine, I was hoping to move this weekend and need to get in the back door. Is there any safety latch? or possible child lock?
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Why my BU assist on/off button is intermittant? It comes on and off when "it" wants to but won't respond when "I" push it. When it's on, it works fine but when it's off, I can't turn it on but the "off" light is still functional. Switch, relay, sub computer?
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I just purchased a 2011 Escape to live with my 7.3 Excursion. I want to install a BU camera in the Escape. The mirror has wiring to it, do not know why.Can I use that exiting wiring? What was it for and where does it go?
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I was having problems with my 02 Escape of misfire on cylinders. After doing a lot of checking, changing spark plugs, changing coils, ect, I decided that it could be the computer. So, I ordered one and put it in. When I turned on the key, all the gauges pegged and then came back to zero, but it acted like someone cut the power line to the starter. No click, no nothing. I checked fuses and they are fine. Even changed them around to make sure. Is there something that I have to do when you change the computer to get it to start? Had no problems with the starter prior, so it has to be something associated with the computer and changing it.
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My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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Have an 03 Escape / 3.0 and the steering catches when turning left. Steering wheel jerks. Replaced the pump about 2 mo. ago and seemed to work, but now it is back. Is there something else I should look at?
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My wife's having some car trouble. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth there's a cracking sound and I can feel it into the wheel. And now the steering's gotten really stiff.
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2002 XLT 3.0L 4X4
Making a grinding sound when traveling straight or turning left. Any turn to the right (even the camber of the passing lane) and there is no grinding sound so I figured it was the drivers side wheel bearing. Replaced it yesterday.... symptoms are still there.
Tight left/right turns don't result in the popping/snapping of a bad CV joint so I don't think that's it.
I don't think it's transmission related since shifting is good and the grinding is not throttle related. Besides, turning shouldn't have an effect on the sound if it was something in the transmission, right?
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Is it true that if your drain lines are clogged water will backflow to the relay in the fuse box?
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2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
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If the selector switch is in 2WD, should the front wheels spin freely if they are off the ground? In other words, should I be able to spin the wheels and they have at least one revolution from the force of the spin?
The reason I ask is that I'm hearing a "whirring" noise at slow speeds in 2WD. When switching to AWD mode, the whirring gets louder. I don't hear the normal clunk/click while it engages/disengages. I suspect, the hubs are engaged somehow.
I jacked up the front end so the front wheels were off the ground. Neither will spin (even allowing for slight friction from the brake pads). To make the front wheels rotate, I have to put a lot of force and there is a lot of resistance. My gas mileage is also dropping.
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
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Im noticing my mpg dropping in the past couple of months. I usually get 19 or 20 in town, and up to 23 on the highway. Now im lucking if I get 16 or 17mpg.
I have a 2001 escape XLT. 6cyl 4x4.
I changed the spark plugs, coils and fuel filter about 3 years ago (almost 40k miles ago).
The car starts fine, seems to idle fine, seems to accelerate ok. The only thing that is off is the MPG.
I dont just want to throw money at parts. Which one should I replace?
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I have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
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