Started up my 6 cylinder 2005 Ford Escape with 187,000 miles on the engine this morning and after 5 minutes a check engine light came on and the car shut off on its own. I restarted the car and then I got a dash message "Service Emissions" and the car shudders a little when driving. I am going to the autoparts store later for a OBD scanner code check.
View 1 RepliesI am running into some issues with my 2011 Escape 2.5L. I am pulling a total of 7 codes. Two codes keep repeating, which those are P0455 and P0457. And I am also getting a C1963. Accompanying the engine codes, my HUD is displaying "Check Fuel Inlet" when I first turn the vehicle on.
View 10 RepliesMy wife just picked up the 2015 Escape 3 weeks ago. This is now the 3rd time back to the dealership with it where nothig on the dash is working. No information center, no speedometer, no tach, no fuel gauge, no temp gauge, and even the entire media screen is powerless. So in turn, a lot of the temp controls and radio are gone.
The first time was on a weekend, I pulled the fuse that powers the entire dash to check it, it was fine and upon putting it back in, everything worked. Still had it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. The 2nd time was this past weekend, we decided to leave it so the service team could see what we were talking about. They again, reset the fuse (still wasn't blown), tightened a couple connections, but really couldn't find anything wrong with it.
The 3rd time was just this morning and the vehicle is currently with Ford now. Obviously warrantied, but did their dealership find what the issue was? We really love the Escape, when everything works right.
Is there a heater core bypass valve under the hood that may be suspect or would a heat transfer door under the dash be the culprit? Engine operating temp seems to be fine.
View 14 RepliesCan the speedo and tack lights be dimmed to almost off with the + and - buttons either side of the headlight switch on a 2014 Escape?
View 2 RepliesThis 2002 ford escape 3.0 xlt 4x4. on the dash you have your transmission #s laid out . the #1 seems to always be highlighted in a square. but as you move the shifter to whatever gear you want there is another square that highlights the selected gear. Also, before when you would have it in D it would flash back and forth from D to 2 just the lights not the transmission.
View 1 Repliesok this has me stumped I get this buzzing/humming/vibration sound from what seems like around Defroster passenger side but it is not all the time only at higher speeds and it it intermittent . I have removed cabin filter and cleaned filter box and checked for a leaf or something even sealed somewhat the plastic shield that covers the cabin filter. I really don't want to rip dash apart but it is so annoying
View 14 RepliesMy 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
The connector is near the floor (that's the gas pedal, in the picture). I've slid back the red clip on both, but the connector still will not separate. Is there a trick?
2001 Escape V6....
Couple weeks ago, was in a spot that needed 4wd. Turned the switch, the 4x4 dash light came on, but rear wheels didn't do anything. Lucky that we were able to get out with ft wheels only. Has 3.0, xlt version.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
I just got this 2001 Escape with 3.0. After driving just a few miles the low coolant light will come on. It is off when starting again and same pattern. Has plenty of coolant and is over the high mark but dont think that would be sensed. Need to remove mounting bolts to move jug enough to unplug and replug the harness connector and see if that cures the problem.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 xlt with a 3.0. In the little over 2 years I've had it, most notably in the past year, I have replaced the front driver side ABS sensor 8 times. This is getting extremely cost, and outrageous. Every month or so, the ABS light comes on and the ABS starts locking up when I am driving it. Every time it does it, I have to take it back to the shop for diagnostics, at a rate of nearly 300 a pop. As you can see, the bill for this one damn sensor has become outrageous.
Every time, the same fault code comes up. Drivers front ABS sensor. Putting on a new sensor fixes it, every time, but only temporarily. I have had the tone ring replaced just to make sure that wasn't it, and every single time it's always been the sensor itself.
I have tried various brands, including a couple of OEM a pop to make sure it wasn't just lower quality parts, and I have the exact same result every time. I have noticed it seems to do it most notably during extremely wet conditions, or heavy snow, although a couple of the times it started acting up in the heat of summer. I have even attempted cleaning the abs sensor to make sure it wasn't just dirty, to no avail.
As I mentioned, only replacing the sensor makes the issue go away, and when I am driving the abs system engages at random times if I leave the light on for too long without fixing the abs light.
About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
2001 Escape 4x4, automatic trans 4x4
Getting a pretty loud "whirring" or humming noise from under the car while driving 30+ mph. It seems like a wheel bearing noise, but coming from directly under the center console area. My thoughts are either the driveshaft center support or the transfer case, I can't find much on it though.
2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
View 2 RepliesMy wheel bearing in the rear went..as its roaring when driving and shop told me wheel bearing needs replaced. I am a bit handy. Is it a big job to change a rear wheel bearing on a 2002 ford escape 3 litre. What tools would I need...don't need a press for wheel bearing on this model, not sure....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc.
View 6 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
My Prius yesterday while driving slowly (under 10 mph) all the dash warning lights came on(triangle, cel, trac control, brake). the gas engine started and the message came on that says: "check hybrid system". Today when I went out to check there only two warning lights on (triangle and cel) with the same message displayed. My question is can the vehicle operate without damaging anything if I drive it as is? I have read on several threads that the engine will not start if the hybrid motor(s) are not working. Since my engine starts and runs I have to believe the motor(s) are working.
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