2001 Escape 4x4, automatic trans 4x4
Getting a pretty loud "whirring" or humming noise from under the car while driving 30+ mph. It seems like a wheel bearing noise, but coming from directly under the center console area. My thoughts are either the driveshaft center support or the transfer case, I can't find much on it though.
My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
I have a 2006 lexus es 330 that just turned over 90,000 miles. My dad and I have done the regular maintenance on it so far but this weekend after a 3 hour drive, I turned the car back on and a loud whirring/humming/whining noise was coming from the engine. It gets slightly louder with acceleration, but I can barely hear it once I've picked up speed (but it's still there.) It still happens when I am in neutral. It sounds like it is coming from the passenger side of the engine. Close to the power steering pump area, but the power steering fluid is full (although it is a very dark/black color and has a slight smell...not sure if this is normal.) I'm not having any trouble or hesitation while steering. The rack is operating smoothly and it is not leaking. I plan on taking it into the shop but wanted to go in educated.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra that makes a RRrrrRRRrRRR noise when turning corners - only to the right. It's not a screeching or scraping noise... more of a loud whirring or humming. One note- back left tire was removed and repaired shortly before this began - could that relate?
View 4 RepliesI had never been in a Prius until I bought my own 12 months ago. A relatively loud whirring noise accompanied me everywhere I went... "Oh, that's just the electric motor doing its thing!" I would tell myself and my unknowing passengers...
It was my TOTALLY shot tires. Oh sure, they had tons of tread life on them upon purchase, but they lasted a scant 22K miles, got horribly scalloped, developed stress cracks between the treads, and aren't even LRR tires! Indeed, beware of the Bridgestone Potenza Grid019.
The three miles it took to drive home on the TrueContacts were an automotive epiphany. I had no freaking idea how quiet this car really was! Even at highway speed! I feel like a fool.
Well, now I've got an LRR tire, a 6 year/90K warranty, and did it for about 400 total. Shipped to my door for about 350, local place mounted and balanced them for 50.
My girlfriend has a 2001 Ford Escape 3L, 6cyl. When accelerating there is a loud high pitch whistle/whirling sound. The sound varies with the amount of throttle you give it. More throttle = louder whine. Doesn't seem to do it when idling or coasting. What that could be? I'm about to remove the belt and take a look at the drive belt tensioner and other pulleys.
Just checked pulleys and tensioner and the tensioner seems fine, a/c pulley spins smooth and free no play, alternator spins smooth no play. The belt needs to be replaced. I wouldn't think this would cause such a load whistle under acceleration. I would expect it to do it all the time if it was the belt. I'm looking at the water pump pulley and belt too and they seem ok as well.
I just got this 2001 Escape with 3.0. After driving just a few miles the low coolant light will come on. It is off when starting again and same pattern. Has plenty of coolant and is over the high mark but dont think that would be sensed. Need to remove mounting bolts to move jug enough to unplug and replug the harness connector and see if that cures the problem.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 xlt with a 3.0. In the little over 2 years I've had it, most notably in the past year, I have replaced the front driver side ABS sensor 8 times. This is getting extremely cost, and outrageous. Every month or so, the ABS light comes on and the ABS starts locking up when I am driving it. Every time it does it, I have to take it back to the shop for diagnostics, at a rate of nearly 300 a pop. As you can see, the bill for this one damn sensor has become outrageous.
Every time, the same fault code comes up. Drivers front ABS sensor. Putting on a new sensor fixes it, every time, but only temporarily. I have had the tone ring replaced just to make sure that wasn't it, and every single time it's always been the sensor itself.
I have tried various brands, including a couple of OEM a pop to make sure it wasn't just lower quality parts, and I have the exact same result every time. I have noticed it seems to do it most notably during extremely wet conditions, or heavy snow, although a couple of the times it started acting up in the heat of summer. I have even attempted cleaning the abs sensor to make sure it wasn't just dirty, to no avail.
As I mentioned, only replacing the sensor makes the issue go away, and when I am driving the abs system engages at random times if I leave the light on for too long without fixing the abs light.
I noticed it a little after driving for days on very snowy/slushy/gritty roads where I had to plow some parking spots with my little 2013 C3. Tonight I was driving into Vancouver and back at 100+kph and noticed like a whirring sound or like a higher pitched humming sound possibly from drivers side front tire?? A little vibration felt through the wheel.
View 7 RepliesAbout a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 ford escape (V6 Limited/Automatic) that just hit the 145,000 mile mark. With routine maintenance and minor repairs, I am hoping to make the car last at least 200,000 miles. I currently have an annoying, intermittent problem that I have not been able to solve on my own. The car has no performance issues, but when the vehicle come to a stop while in drive (at a red light, etc) the car make a low humming noise that is coming from the front of the vehicle. The noise stops once I get the vehicle back in motion or when I throw the car into neutral. The humming also changes when I turn the steering wheel, but I think that might have to do with the load on the engine changing. The only thought I have is the torque converter, but I am not sure how I would test or rule that out.
View 9 RepliesIn my 1998 Nissan Frontier I had the clutch replaced at about 115,000 miles. That included a "clutch kit" which included a new throwout bearing. Currently, I'm at only 145,000 miles. Much of that is highway miles.
However, a noise has developed. It's a whirring or humming that happens when the clutch is depressed (disengaged). The noise is not present when the clutch is released in any gear, including neutral.
My first guess would be the throwout bearing, but again, that was replaced only 30,000 miles ago, and plenty of highway miles. The original lasted as long as the original clutch.
My second guess would be the pilot shaft bearing. That was not replaced with the clutch. (So the shop says.)
Any other guesses or advice? No matter the case, is it a problem if I leave it be? I can live with the noise if I know it's not really a problem.
My wheel bearing in the rear went..as its roaring when driving and shop told me wheel bearing needs replaced. I am a bit handy. Is it a big job to change a rear wheel bearing on a 2002 ford escape 3 litre. What tools would I need...don't need a press for wheel bearing on this model, not sure....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc.
View 6 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
Started up my 6 cylinder 2005 Ford Escape with 187,000 miles on the engine this morning and after 5 minutes a check engine light came on and the car shut off on its own. I restarted the car and then I got a dash message "Service Emissions" and the car shudders a little when driving. I am going to the autoparts store later for a OBD scanner code check.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
View 4 RepliesI own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
View 1 RepliesMy girlfriend has an 05 ford escape with a 3.0 the car has been well maintained it has 184,000 miles on it. Over 3/4 of the miles were highway. I have noticed that it has had a slight engine ticking noise i have researched and some say the tensioner some say retorque the cams? I have not been around these cars much. I replaced the alternator the other day and serp belt all pullys felt fine. The engine used to tick all the time here lately sometimes when it gets started it does it and sometimes it doesn't.
Also what fluid is supposed to be ran in the tranny the owners manual just says mercon, so do i just run regular strait mercon fluid in it? or does it need like mercon V. The car runs fine i just want to fix the ticking noise if its something major. Just some thing I've hear about on a buddys newer f150 with a 5.4 the oil supply ports that lube the timing chain tensioner got plugged and it developed a ticking noise? I am a mechanic so i can check and do anything i just dont know where to start on this car?