Ford Escape / Hybrid :: High Shifting Point From Normal - 3500 RPMs
Jul 8, 2015
I was preparing my sons 2004 escape (3.0L) for a vacation by changing out the spark plugs. When done, I noticed that the engine lacks power during acceleration and has a very high shifting point from normal (3500 rpm). There were no DTC's set so I took it all apart again, this time changing the intake manifold gaskets both upper and lower. I put it all back together and have the same issue. I have double checked (actually quadruple checked) all of the vacuum lines and electronic connections but to no avail. The truck still has very poor power, at idle it bottoms out around 500 rpm. From a start at a stop sign, with the pedal floored it takes a city block to get up to 35 mph. Where I can look next?
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When I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape, and when I start it for the first time of the day, it idles really rough, and way below 500RPMs (to the point where it almost stalls). After about 10 minutes, when the car is all warmed up, it runs smoothly, as if there was nothing wrong with it. The only conclusion I can draw is that it is temperature related, but I can't figure out exactly what is causing the issue. This happens on the driest or wettest of days, so moisture doesn't seem to be an issue.
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I have a '96 Saturn SL with a 1.9 SOHC. I recently removed the engine and transmission to change the clutch. I also changed the timing chain guides, the valve cover gasket, the timing chain gasket, oil pan gasket, front and rear crank seals and motor mounts. After I put it back in, it revs to 3500-4000 rpms and is very rich (so rich it smokes). I replaced the throttle position sensor since it had a crack at the plug and to see if that was the problem. I have looked at everything again and nothing is jumping out at me.
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Ok, I was driving down the interstate in my 2002 Ford Escape XLT 4X4 and I noticed my rpm's reved to about 5000 from my cruising rpm of 2200 and it was as if it went into neutral. I coasted with engine running fine to the right shoulder and called a tow truck to the nearest dealer. No reverse, D, 2 or 1 only Park that worked.
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I have several problems with my 06 FEH maybe some of you had same issues. I have imported this car from new york in my country 1 month ago, this is first Ford for me. Love this car but there is some issues and want to figure them out.
1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
6. When monitoring with obd water temperature is always lower then it was on my other cars. its around 158-176F on other cars it was 200F.
YouTube......
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I have an 03 escape 3.0 4wd that seems to be flooding out. When I start the truck the rpms go up to 4 then it drops down...then drops to nothing and will choke off. If you drive it sometimes it will cut off when driving but this just started happening and after turn the truck after you can smell gas... It not my daily driver I use it to drive on the beach...
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We are looking at buying the new style Escape, either new or a few years old, but I'm worried about the life of an Eco Boost motor (a 4cyl. turbo scare me).
We drive around 25-30k miles a year, and would like keep it past the 200+k mile mark. I'm concerned about a turbo charge motor holding up that long and what type of issues would i have to look forward too?
We have a 2008 Mariner AWD with the V6 it has 200+k miles on it and it's been an awesome little SUV. i want the same quality in my next vehicle too.
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2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
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The cooling fan runs on high as soon as the a/c is turned on, regardless of the engine temp. I have the sensor(6F9Z-19D594-AA) that mounts on top of the accumulator. If i replace the existing sensor, will the refrigerant leak out?
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When started very high idle after hitting gas pedal sometimes it will lower idle sometimes not,,then holding pressure on gas pedal it has very bad surging ... Any guesses what might be and possible cost fix?? I am no mechanic,will have to take it somewhere...90,000 miles on it..
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After driving and shut off and restarting like going into gas station etc idles up pretty high for a while no matter if it is hot or cold outside and have to wait 30- 60 secs to come down to normal...
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So we bought a new to us 04 Escape for the kid, he loves it! My question is, what's going on when I accelerate somewhat aggressively, the tach and speedo peg high and battery light comes on. It does not affect performance and gauges return to normal within a couple seconds.
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My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
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So my story starts simple enough; I ran out of gas in my buddy's car, filled it back up, it finally started but ran like >poop< for the first 10 min or so. Finally after coaxing for 10-15 min, she stays coming around. After 30 min or so of driving, I could drive her all I wanted, so long as I didn't let it idle below 12-1500 rpm. If I did that, she'd kill, and stall out. Well I drove her the other day for most the day and it seemed the kinks were worked out. So today when I tried to drive her round the block for a final check, she up and dies, and hasn't started since. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the intake, and dropped a can of sea foam in to the tank to boot, but no dice.Signs and symptoms seem to mimic a bad mass air flow sensor or possibly a clogged catalytic converter, with the exception that it only shudders and acts congested on low rpm's and doesn't choke out at high revs.
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Ford Escape 3L, 6cyl. When accelerating there is a loud high pitch whistle/whirling sound. The sound varies with the amount of throttle you give it. More throttle = louder whine. Doesn't seem to do it when idling or coasting. What that could be? I'm about to remove the belt and take a look at the drive belt tensioner and other pulleys.
Just checked pulleys and tensioner and the tensioner seems fine, a/c pulley spins smooth and free no play, alternator spins smooth no play. The belt needs to be replaced. I wouldn't think this would cause such a load whistle under acceleration. I would expect it to do it all the time if it was the belt. I'm looking at the water pump pulley and belt too and they seem ok as well.
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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I have a '04 Ford Mustang Convertible, V6 engine, and today on the way home it really scared me. I was stuck in traffic for an hour and a half, moving a few feet at a time, when all of the sudden, about 40 minutes into it, the RPM's dropped almost to the point of cutting off. This happened a total of 3 times until I finally got out of traffic. The last time it happened, I threw my hands up and said "I am going to see what it does." The previous 2 times I had stepped on the gas, but this time I did not, and it got to the point to almost cutting off, then caught itself and throttled back up.
Now, it was 90 degrees in Charlotte today and the AC was on. I was told this might be the issue. I have never had this happen before, but then again I don't live in Charlotte and this was something that has only happened this once in the whole year I have owned it. I thought maybe I was low on fuel, but the gage did not register as low, and no fuel light came on. I am hoping it was just the AC compressor driving the RPM's low...
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Normally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
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