Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Engine Light Flashing Constantly With A Vibration
Oct 15, 2014
Engine light flashing constantly with a vibration. It don't give any codes with the reader.
View 1 RepliesEngine light flashing constantly with a vibration. It don't give any codes with the reader.
View 1 RepliesMy escape has over 200k miles. My battery light dimly flickers constantly when running. there is also a misfire that seems to correspond with the flicker. the faster i rev the engine, the faster the battery light blinks.
My battery constantly shows 14.1 volts. the battery is new the alternator has been replaced twice in the past 2 years.... I noticed when i use my rear washer fluid, it spills into the car on the passenger side kick panel inside the vehicle.
My "Theft" light on my 2005 Ford Escape is flashing and I cannot start the Escape.
1. I tried the key that I had been using successfully for the last 7 years. , car did not start, Theft light blinked. ,
2. Tried wife's dealer key, Car won't start, theft light blinks.
3. Tried various things, such as manual locking & unlocking, turning alarm beeping on/off, disconnecting battery, etc. Nothing works.
Called the dealer, they say they know nothing. Must bring car in, they say. Basically I am screwed and now must spend big bucks to take it the dealer because of Ford's software bug.
My friends 2006 Escape has the ( low pressure warning light) flashing on for about 10 seconds after starting the engine. All tires are at correct pressure. What is causing this?
View 5 RepliesI thought my tranny shift points had gone a little nutty. This afternoon, it suddenly seemed as if it were starting off in 2nd gear...then the OD light started flashing. Now, when you put it in 1st gear manually, or reverse, it's like it's in park. Can't push the truck or anything...put it in drive or 2nd, and it starts off slowly. Once it picks up speed, all seems well. Definitely not starting off in 1st or going into reverse at all. Have y'all seen this problem before?
View 9 RepliesAlong with a high idle problem that's driving me a little bonkers on my 2002 3.0 V6 Escape, I've noticed that the tranny constantly hunts up and down a little when I'm running about 55-60 mph. Today I got a code P1120. Makes me wonder about the TPS... I replaced it during routine maintenance about a year ago with a unit from carquest, so I don't have the original to replace it with for troubleshooting. Will a TPS also cause a high idle, or are those 2 issues typically not related?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
View 2 RepliesThis 2002 ford escape 3.0 xlt 4x4. on the dash you have your transmission #s laid out . the #1 seems to always be highlighted in a square. but as you move the shifter to whatever gear you want there is another square that highlights the selected gear. Also, before when you would have it in D it would flash back and forth from D to 2 just the lights not the transmission.
View 1 RepliesSo my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
Check engine light came on and stopped by the local autoparts store to get the error code.
Code: P2270
Bank1 Sensor2 fault
Where is this O2 sensor? I've replaced O2's on other cars I've had and just want to make sure I replace the right one.
A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light. Pulling the codes I saw that it was a p0304 and sometimes a p0316. The first time this happened I check the spark plug cables and one was loose (cycylinder 4). Then last week my fuel pump died. since then I have gotten the two codes on a somewhat continous basis. I replaced the plugs (needed to anyway) and the problem did not go away.
The odd thing is that the check engine light does not come on at idle. IT only comes on after the motor is at a higher rev. The replaced plugs looked pretty normal, but the cylinder 4 plug had some carbon deposits. I am currently running injector cleaner in the gas. I may go ahead and replace the plug wires since the current ones are high mileage and it is not an expensive fix.
I test drove 2 2005 escape limited v6 2wd today. Both of them were pretty loud in the cabin at idle. The noise and vibration did lessen after the car started to move. Is this normal for escapes or does this indicate a problem somewhere? Like engine or transmission mounts.
View 2 RepliesI have been having this problem with Gf's car for a few months it is a 06 3.0 escape with 141K on the clock the car seems to run ok except at red lights and when in drive it seems to idle like its just about 100 rpms low when I give it a little gas just a touch it smoothes out. if I put it in neutral the car smooth's out but in drive when you come to a stop light or stop sign you can feel the rough or low idle in the steering wheel. She is nagging me and it has been very cold here in Pa and I'm trying to wrap my head around if it is a cold thing or just a coincidence. I'm fairly good at wrenching and I just need some things to look for as when you start the car up cold it idles fast like 12 to 1300 rpms and then drops to about 900 and in drive it seems like maybe it's about 600 to 700 rpms. but where to start to look Is it a sensor, vacuum leak ?
View 6 RepliesThe air bag lite is flashing 3-3 when you start up the truck. After several 33 codes it stays on constantly. I look up on internet and 33 is "passenger air bag open circuit". Pulled the glove box door and disconnected the wires and wiggled and reattached, still have code.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 mountaineer v-6 awd drives pretty good but od light is always flashing even if ignition switch is open and truck not started..and check transmission on message display also..the only thing that i feel its really tight on turns as if it wants to lock up but once steering gets straight it runs fine... I know that a regular scanner cant pull codes I got to go to transmission shop but chances are there gonna tell me its trans time....
View 6 RepliesMy 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
1999 Passatt ... My ABS system is shot and the "ABS BRAKE!" lights flash constantly, as long as car is on. I have been told to not replace the ABS system as it's incredibly pricey. I was told by another owner that he had heard there was a way to have this blinking stop pretty easily.
View 1 RepliesMy ABS light is on and the 4X4 light flashes about 8 times every few minutes. I thought this would be from a cracked tone ring on teh drive axle, I put the truck up on my floor jack and I did find a cracked tome ring on passenger side. Whoever has the truck used silicone to put the broken tone ring back on. In any event I replaced the drive axle with a new OEM with new tone ring. Drives like a charm but ABS and 4X4 light still on and flashing. It is AWd Is there a tone ring on the drive shaft ?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 mariner that the ABS light is on all the time and the 4WD light flashes 8 times and the vehicle feels like it is in four wheel drive when turning only at slow speeds and usually in reverse but only when the vehicle has sat for a while, as if you parked for a hour then pulled out of the stall and were turning the wheel.
Tone rings on all wheels are good and all speed sensors have good continuity. Have a friend that works at Ford dealership and he got a tech to scan the car for me. Scan showed the left rear wheel sensor at fault so that's what I'll replace.
I was driving home from work on Tuesday and I saw a message flash across the MFD saying that I needed to check coolant and consult owner's manual. Also the coolant light was constantly flashing. I was quarter mile from my house so I just drove home, checking the temp to make sure it was ok. I got home and opened the hood to see no coolant in the reservoir, but there was some in the hose. I was like "ok cool I just bought this car 3 months ago but not a big deal." I also looked on the ground under my car quickly and there wasn't a leak. I happen to live about 500' from a VW dealership so called them up and they said bring it over.
When I got there the SA came out and took a look and said to give him 5 to fill it up and I'd be on my way. As I'm waiting in the lounge, I notice a puddle on the ground under my car. I told him about it and he confirmed coolant leak. But because I didn't buy the car from them, they wouldn't give me a loaner, so I had them fill it up and I took a ride to where I bought the car (30 mins away). Now I'm driving a new Jetta. I got the call from Balise yesterday (the dealership I bought it from) and they said my radiator core was defective internally, they overnighted a part and they started fixing it yesterday morning. Since it's such an involved job, only a master tech can do it and there might not be one there today (which I have to check on around noon) so I might not get it back until Tuesday. But I really can't complain (other than the fact that it's a brand new car), I have a car to drive and it's being fixed properly.
It probably was that damn lowerthanzimmy sticker. I realize defective parts are made, they can't catch all of them before they're installed.
I was driving today and felt my ABS kick in with a pulsing pedal, although I was on dry ground. From that point on, my ABS light stayed on and my 4X4 light will blink every minute or so 8 consecutive times. The ABS light has gone off a couple times but only for a second and the ABS light comes back on again. I did get the truck on a scanner and got the codes C1234, U2023, U0415. Tried to clear the codes, but the ABS light prevails.
View 14 Replies