Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Engine And Tranny Operate Flawlessly
Jan 11, 2014
I have a 2001 Escape with 119,000 miles. I am the second owner, having bought it at 59,000 miles. The engine and tranny operate flawlessly. I replaced the tires that were on it within 10k miles of buying it for I was sick of the pulsing ROWR-ROWR-ROWR-ROWR noise at highway speed.
That noise, couple with the normal Escape noise, drove me nuts. So, I bought a new set of tires, Goodyear RTs. The noise calmed down, but now the noise is back. Alignment has been fine, had it checked, but the tire tech told me "these small SUVS are murder on tires."
I am ready to get rid of it simply because of the road noise at highway speed. My wife complains about it. Compared to her '11 Accord, it sounds like a jalopy. It handles well, no shaking or shimmying.
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2002 3.0 Escape. All running great. I have a question about where engine load/vacuum is sensed for determining shift point? I replaced all of the dry rotted hoses in the vacuum recently when replacing intake upper & lower gaskets. since then, I've noticed the shift points aren't quite the same as before. The tubing I used was slightly smaller that the OEM, but otherwise, everything is plumbed up as before.
When accelerating, the engine does rev a bit more than before, before the tranny moves to the next gear. I can ease up on the throttle just slightly, and it'll shift up. If I'm not accelerating hard, it seems to shift fairly normal. Going up slight grades it doesn't want to shift as soon as it should, but on level ground it shifts fairly normal under light load. Going down grade it shifts quickly, as one would expect. This is why I felt it might be somehow related to engine vacuum.
Is there an sensor somewhere, a restrictor in the vacuum tubing, or a vacuum modulator I might look at? I've double checked the vacuum tubing and found no leaks.
View 6 Replies
I thought my tranny shift points had gone a little nutty. This afternoon, it suddenly seemed as if it were starting off in 2nd gear...then the OD light started flashing. Now, when you put it in 1st gear manually, or reverse, it's like it's in park. Can't push the truck or anything...put it in drive or 2nd, and it starts off slowly. Once it picks up speed, all seems well. Definitely not starting off in 1st or going into reverse at all. Have y'all seen this problem before?
View 9 Replies
Having issues with transmission fluid spewing out the dipstick hole? Truck is an 04 Escape and has worked great until I had a rear manifold leaking. I took the truck to our mechanic and he replaced the rear manifold cat converter. He broke 3 of the 4 bolts so he told me he had to roll the engine forward to gain access to tap out the broken bolts. Im sure he took the throttle body and intake off for more room. I Got the truck back and noticed transmission fluid all over my driveway the next day. I contacted the mechanic and he states it was nothing he did and cannot figure why this is happening. Basically told me to fly a kite!
View 14 Replies
My daughter has a 2002 Escape 4WD with 3.0L engine.
Coming home from school a few weeks ago she experienced engine running rough on the highway when trying to accelerate. We ran the diagnostic on it and it revealed that #2 cyl coil was misfiring.
I've replaced all of the rear bank coils (in hopes that I wouldn't have to remove the intake manifold again anytime soon). I also replaced the connectors and weatherproofed them.
Replaced all the plugs while I had easy access too. This all went pretty smooth with exception of breaking 3 of the 5mm coil bolts off inside the valve cover. I've also replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.
It runs much better now except now on the highway, at 1800 rpm/55 mph if I try a gradual acceleration I get engine sputtering and it won't accelerate. If I push hard on the pedal it will downshift and accelerate normally right past this trouble spot. Other than this it idles and runs great.
I've noticed that the 3/4 in. vac hose on back of manifold is getting pinched closed about 70%. this is the hose that leads down to the top of engine just below lower manifold. I suspect this is the problem but cannot determine the root cause. I assumed it was the intake manifold gaskets but those are now replaced.
View 1 Replies
What to look for. 2001 escape 3.0 starts and runs but it has a miss and no codes came up yet . the engine will rev up but it really takes time to idle down . don't matter if its cold or hot it just don't want to drop to idle as fast as it should.
View 4 Replies
My girlfriend has an 05 ford escape with a 3.0 the car has been well maintained it has 184,000 miles on it. Over 3/4 of the miles were highway. I have noticed that it has had a slight engine ticking noise i have researched and some say the tensioner some say retorque the cams? I have not been around these cars much. I replaced the alternator the other day and serp belt all pullys felt fine. The engine used to tick all the time here lately sometimes when it gets started it does it and sometimes it doesn't.
Also what fluid is supposed to be ran in the tranny the owners manual just says mercon, so do i just run regular strait mercon fluid in it? or does it need like mercon V. The car runs fine i just want to fix the ticking noise if its something major. Just some thing I've hear about on a buddys newer f150 with a 5.4 the oil supply ports that lube the timing chain tensioner got plugged and it developed a ticking noise? I am a mechanic so i can check and do anything i just dont know where to start on this car?
View 1 Replies
2010 Escape with 74,000 miles. Backstory: This is my daughters car who is away at college about 300 miles away. About a year ago the engine started hesitating when driving and would stall to idle at highway speeds. She took the car in to dealer and they replaced the Throttle body under the CSP that had been issued just prior to the dealer visit. All was fine for about 3 months, then she reports that the car is doing the same thing. Check engine light briefly illuminates and goes right back off when this occurs. She is able to slip the car into neutral and it seems to correct the malfunction. Unfortunately she has gotten so good at this that she keeps her hand on the gearshift when driving. It seems to happen at various speeds with no warning and no lasting effects.
She came to visit for Christmas and I was able to replicate the problem after about 30 minutes of city driving, but not quick enough to take a picture of the wrench that illuminated briefly. I slowed to the edge of the road, put it in park and turned off the key (engine ran the whole time at idle). Cranked back up and good to go! She had the oil changed about a thousand miles ago, I replaced the air filter last night and she had to return to her house for work in the next couple of days. She said it happened 5 times on the way home last night.
Car has always been serviced regularly and was a certified pre-owned when we bought it in March or so of 2012. I also bought the extended warranty although that may be expired by now.
Her local dealer said they can't fix it if the CEL is not on or the problem is not occurring at the exact time they have it in the shop. Now, I am not sure but was under the impression that the computer would record any codes and store them even if the light went off and the car returned to normal.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
View 2 Replies
Engine light flashing constantly with a vibration. It don't give any codes with the reader.
View 1 Replies
Well, not an escape, it is a mazda tribute. but it is the same thing as an escape. My sister just called. as she is driving down the road, if she lets off the throttle the engine will randomly die. it did it 2 times sunday, once yesterday, and once today, as she was talking to me. It will not die at traffic lights, just as you let off the throttle sometimes. today it did it at 45 mph. When it dies she just pops it in neutral, restarts it, puts it back in drive, and it is fine. No check engine light after restarting. What I should look at when she brings it over this weekend?
View 3 Replies
I recently had my PCM flashed due to the deceleration safety recall. My engine now revs to 2200 rpm when I start it even if the engine is hot. It goes down to 750 rpm after about 30 seconds. My engine before the recall, reved from 1200 to 1400 rpm when starting. My dealer and ford tell me 2200 rpm is normal but I think it is too high.
View 7 Replies
My daughter has a 2001 Ford Escape, V6, Automatic, 2WDR, 132,000 miles that is having starting problems. When you turn the key the engine will try to start. You have to push on the gas pedal to keep it running, it will not idle until it gets warmed up. If you try to drive it while cold, it has no power. Reading previous posts I have already replaced the spark plugs, intake gaskets, air filter, EGR, TPS, and fuel filter. Check for crack hoses / vacuum leaks. It is still not starting properly. No engine codes. New problem is oil light is flashing but the engine has oil. All of the gauges, lights, functioning normally. What do I try next?
View 1 Replies
I have noticed that my vehicles engine fan runs at max speed (and is very loud) all the time. Regardless of outside temperature, engine temperature, climate control settings, etc. It runs like that from the second I turn it on until I shut it off.
I have done some research online and found that people with a similar concern have been told that it could possibly be either the Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. I know that it could be a wide variety of issues, however it seemed as though these were common (and relatively easy) solutions. Does anything think either/both of these could be the problem? If so, need info about the proper part and instructions/video on how to install the new parts.
I would much rather spend ~$50 for two parts than screw around taking it in. If my attempts dont work, at least I know that I have 2 new parts in there. Or is this not really anything that I should worry about?
Additionally, my climate control settings dont all work. And I have found through research that I need to replace the blower resistor. Would this have any impact on the engine fan? I drive a 2012 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6
View 5 Replies
2001 escape 3.0 engine is giving me a headache. It starts and will idle no problem but as soon as I step on the gas the engine sputters and coughs but it does race up. I put in new intake seals, new sparks plugs and a tps and cleaned the maf sensor. It shows no codes so what am I missing? Can it be a fuel system problem ?? what should I be looking for??
View 2 Replies
So my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
View 6 Replies
I was just changing the oil on my wifes 2008 Escape and noticed a oil leak. At first I thought it was an oil pan gasket,But its higher than that. Then I thought maybe an axle boot but it's also higher than that. It's on the passenger side about the middle of the engine right under neath the biggest pulley.
Its a cylinder shape mold coming off the engine about an inch long with a bolt on the end of it. I'm not seeing oil any higher than that and seems to be coming from there from what I can see. Is this something common with the Escapes?The truck has 55,650 miles on it and this is the first issue so far.The wifes first escape we traded for this was an 01 with 200,000.
View 4 Replies
I just bought a 2010 3.0 V6. Oil is leaking down the engine on the rear passenger side of the engine. It starts near the top. I replaced the rear valve cover gasket but it still leaks. I am concluding that it must be the timing chain cover. I can't find any info on how to diagnose and how to repair.
View 8 Replies
I have several problems with my 06 FEH maybe some of you had same issues. I have imported this car from new york in my country 1 month ago, this is first Ford for me. Love this car but there is some issues and want to figure them out.
1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
6. When monitoring with obd water temperature is always lower then it was on my other cars. its around 158-176F on other cars it was 200F.
YouTube......
View 2 Replies
I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
View 5 Replies
Some odd engine noise i noticed on my fiance's 2010 Ford Escape 6 cyl Limited.
I noticed it a week or so ago, the sound almost reminds me of marbles hitting metal. The sound is coming from a pulley on the driver side front of the engine bay (closest to bumper). Rather than trying to explain the sound more, listen to the two youtube clips i put up. Clip 2 from outside the grill you can hear it the most.
What this could be and what I can do to resolve? I prefer to try and fix car issues on my own rather than go to a mechanic, if possible.
Clip 1 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 1 - YouTube
Clip 2 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 2 - YouTube
View 4 Replies
