Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Coolant Thermostat Stuck Open?
Mar 26, 2017
If I don't replace it, will it cause any trouble?
View 5 RepliesIf I don't replace it, will it cause any trouble?
View 5 RepliesI set out to do a coolant flush but ran into an increasing number of problems. When I went to replace the thermostat I discovered one of the three bolts would not come out due to the inside thread on the thermostat housing being stripped. I purchased a brand new housing and O-ring.
When I reinstalled the thermostat (also Motorcraft brand) with the above O-ring and attached all the hoses I had a severe leak between the thermostat housing and the intake hose connecter. I diagnosed the problem as the O-ring slipping off of the lip or ledge inside the thermostat housing and not sealing all the way around.
The Motorcraft O-ring seemed like the diameter was too big for the interior lip of the thermostat housing because the ring would pop up on one side whenever I tried to fully seat it on the interior lip. I went to AutoZone and purchased an orange Duralast O-ring, and while it seemed to be a little smaller diameter than the Motorcraft it too slipped off when I tightened down the housing.
I have tried everything, and every time I tightened down the housing I did it very slowly and carefully doing an 1/4 turn at a time with the three bolts but still the O-ring would slip off.
I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder and the thermostat seems to be stuck partial open. Gauge does not reach what was normal operating level before. Has not thrown P 0128 code yet. I was thinking changing the thermostat. When checking on replacement it shows 2 gaskets, one paper or rubber gasket with holes and an one o ring. Is this correct and if so where does each go when installed. Looking at the housing it does not look to be to hard a job.
View 4 RepliesIt's pretty cold these day where I live (about 2 weeks of -20C and lower). I know that winter can affect gas mileage but right now, I'm averaging about 13l/km (18mpg). I believe this is not normal.
I just bought the car and I noticed that the engine temp looks low to me (see pic attached). Is it supposed to run this cool? I also went to the garage and he checked with a obd2 scanner and nothing was wrong. Could a stuck thermostat be the cause of my poor gas mileage?
2001 ford escape. cannot open back door and glass. there is no kep option, only auto and they are not working. checked fuses, all other doors working fine, I was hoping to move this weekend and need to get in the back door. Is there any safety latch? or possible child lock?
View 14 RepliesMy liftgate glass will not open but the liftgate will. Dashboard indicates that the glass is open. Can not open with key fob either. What this problem may be.
View 4 RepliesMy son's escape has been parked for about 6 mos... alternator went out and I refused to pay to fix it due to some disciplinary issues with him. Anyhow, yesterday I went out to go look at it and the hood won't open. When I parked it I took out the battery and shut the hood. Never had an issue opening the hood prior.
When I pull the lever, its real tight - like the cable is not really moving or if it is, it cant be much. I'm afraid it might break if I keep pulling. I tried having him pull it while I pushed and pulled on the hood, still stuck. I have no clue why or how it is stuck, but wondering on any way to get it open. I can't really see in there...through the grill or under the hood.
Wife come home the other day after leaving for work with the truck no going past 20KM to 30KM.. After some investigating it seems to be in Limp - In Mode. There was a Check-Engine light & after further investigation found a Vac hose with a leak, repaired this & test drove. Same issue.... then there was a loud hissing sound from the engine area so I investigate & now found the EGR sensor (DPEF pressure sensor ) had blow a hose & fried the sensor.
New sensor was replace along with 2-hoses cleared the engine light but the truck still will not go more then 20KM or 30KM max.. I checked the EGR valve with vac pump & engine stalls or so the valve is good. I have left the neg cable off the batt to try & clear the Limp-In mode without success. Looking for a way to clear the limp-in mode or do I need to clear it with a scan tool?
My 2008 Ford Escape is stuck at 5% Oil Life I have tried the reset procedure But when I press the 3 buttons Setup Info or Reset nothing changes It will not change screens When I start my car I see the KM (I'm from Canada) then within a couple of minutes it shows %5 Oil Life and no matter what I do it wont change or scroll to a different screen. When the door is ajar or tail gate open it shows but then will flash back to the 5% Oil Life
View 8 RepliesMy mother-in-law has a 2003 Escape with a V-6. For the last week the rear lift gate and window will not open. Tried the door key and the driver's side door unlocked. Turned the key again within three seconds (according to the operator's manual). The two lights flashed, the remaining doors opened except for the rear gate. I pressed my ear to the gate and it sounds like it is trying to release the locking mechanism. Any recommendations?
View 7 RepliesMy dad has an 2001 XLT 3.0 4x4 with 100,000 miles. He was having trouble with hesitation and decided to change the fuel pump. All went well and the Escape ran fine for a couple of weeks. The other day, he went to start it and nothing happened. One click and the gauges ran up and stuck. Battery was tested at Auto Zone and checked ok.
View 3 RepliesMy front interior light/map lights combination does not come on when the doors open. The rear seat and cargo area lights work when the doors open. Do the front interior lights are not designed to work in conjunction with the other lights when the door is opened?
View 6 RepliesI just got this 2001 Escape with 3.0. After driving just a few miles the low coolant light will come on. It is off when starting again and same pattern. Has plenty of coolant and is over the high mark but dont think that would be sensed. Need to remove mounting bolts to move jug enough to unplug and replug the harness connector and see if that cures the problem.
View 7 RepliesI am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30.
View 14 Repliesi have a 2008 xlt ford escape and i have coolant leaking issues, my reservoir would empty so i had to refill it with water. and then i let the car run but nothing leaked so i turned the AC on and it started leaking so i investigated further and identified the source. i, am not sure what is it, it might be a lose hose or something else.
View 3 RepliesThe wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
View 3 RepliesMy 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
View 3 RepliesThis weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
My 5.8L XL Windsor van is overheating when idling or in traffic but cooling just fine when moving on highways.
The 5 blade-fan comes on as soon as I turn the engine on and the radiator appears to be working just fine, cooling fluid moving and no leaks.
I am a landscaper in NYC and often haul heavy loads through slow moving traffic in the city and would love to drive relaxed and not with my eyes fixed on the temperature gauge awaiting impending disaster.
What is the best course of action?
a) change the clutch and see how it goes...
b) change the clutch, the fan and the water pump
c) install an electric fan
d) drive the van into the east river
Another issue, which has me and my friends puzzled, is that I changed the termostat a while back in an attempt to locate the problem; I replaced the old 195 degrees with a 180. Since the change 8 times out of 10 when I start the van as it is warming up I have to rave the engine for the termostat to open otherwise it does not and I end up with overheating bang. Once it is open no problem beside the overheating while idling.
And one final issue after driving for a while the motor surges when idling at a stop light or in heavy traffic. I have been thinking a bad air sensor but my mechanic or I have not been able to fix this issue for years.
1995 Ford Van E150. So I've been trying to solve my overheating problem for months now. One morning I walked out of my house and all of my coolants was on the street. I could not completely detect the source of the leak after running more coolant through it. I also checked the dip stick and coolant on the ground for any sign of oil/coolant mixing. I started by replacing the thermostat.
I did a more thorough inspection and found a crack at the bottom of the radiator that I replaced less than two years ago. I replaced the radiator again and while I had the belt, intake and fan disassembled I switched out the water pump as well. The old water pump was gunked and the gasket was almost completely worn off. The van is still overheating and spitting out coolant at a much higher rate. I'm guessing because of the new water pump. A friend said it could be the intake manifold because of where the steam was coming from the motor.