Just fixed the bad wheel bearing and a bad ball join on the passenger side. Now the only noise left is the clicks sound when I make sharp turn. Regular turns are normal. CV boots are good. What is wrong?
View 3 RepliesAbout a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
Just started getting a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel. It sounds like it's coming from underneath the vehicle in the area behind the left front wheel. It sounds like rubber against steel and drones as long as I turn the wheel. It also sounds when the suspension is activated. ie when I go over a bump. It's pretty loud. 2005 Limited ....
View 5 RepliesMy daughter has a 2001 Ford Escape, V6, Automatic, 2WDR, 132,000 miles that is having starting problems. When you turn the key the engine will try to start. You have to push on the gas pedal to keep it running, it will not idle until it gets warmed up. If you try to drive it while cold, it has no power. Reading previous posts I have already replaced the spark plugs, intake gaskets, air filter, EGR, TPS, and fuel filter. Check for crack hoses / vacuum leaks. It is still not starting properly. No engine codes. New problem is oil light is flashing but the engine has oil. All of the gauges, lights, functioning normally. What do I try next?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Escape, 4x4, V6 with 116k on it. Recently it won't start until it's sat for a few hours. I'll drive it for a couple of days without a problem and then it will refuse to start. The Battery is strong, the starter is trying to turn it over but it won't fire up. I've seen several other posts with Escapes having this same issue but none have given a resolution. I'm figuring it may be the fuel filter, the fuel pump, or the computer control.
View 14 Replies2005 xlt 4x4. I was cleaning the threads on the rear constant velocity joint before taking the nut off. Turning the hub was almost impossible without using a steel bar. Is it supposed to be this difficult to roll the rear axles? Yes the selector is in neutral....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesMy wife's having some car trouble. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth there's a cracking sound and I can feel it into the wheel. And now the steering's gotten really stiff.
View 1 RepliesI have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
I just bought a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS, yesterday. 167k. Some faded paint on top areas, dead battery & in need of driver's front CV joint axle i believe, clicks when going around corners. Starts without hesitation, no smoke, no ticking, very clean and has only had 1 owner.
View 10 RepliesSo I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 that developed an odd problem almost two years ago that no mechanic I've taken it to has been able to find and fix, and I and my more car-savvy friends haven't had any luck with either.
About maybe 50% of the time when I sharply turn left (only left, never right) the brake pedal goes "soft" and the vehicle's braking power drops dramatically (but not entirely). Because of the sharp angle required to make this happen, and the low speeds I have to be moving at to even handle that sharp of a turn with this vehicle, this has only ever happened when I pull into a parking spot, and the vehicle still manages to come to a complete stop safely before being in danger of hitting anything. It never ever happens at any other time, and brakes like a champ normally.
I've had numerous other issues with the brakes in this vehicle in the last two years, all of which I've fixed. This one eludes me and every mechanic I've taken it to, though. I've replaced both calipers, both rotors, the brake pads, bled all four brake lines, and had the ABS control unit and ABS motor replaced.
At the time the issue first appeared, I had two damaged calipers caused by shoddy brake pads disintegrating on me (almost new, barely worn, but covered in pockmarks, looked like a Michigan road) and clogging up the calipers. That caused the vehicle to lurch to a halt with screeching tires if I so much as barely tapped the brake pedal. Replacing the calipers and brake pads fixed that issue, but did not fix the soft pedal issue when turning left. I ended up with the same screeching sudden stop problem recently when the ABS module went bad, replacing it fixed that, the brake pads and calipers are still in good condition, and replacing the ABS did not fix the soft pedal issue.
2007 F250 4WD 5.4l ... when I turn sharply in either direction I am getting a light clunk sound similar to when you are in 4WD on blacktop and try turning. The engine also seems to wanna stall when I cut the wheel too sharp.
View 4 RepliesI found that my 2012 CAMRY SE has an issue when you turn sharply either performing a U turn or any sharp turn you will hear a clunking noise and feel a thumping in the steering wheel. The other day I had to make a U-turn and the front wheel of the car actually skidded a bit half way thru the turn and made the clunking/thumping noise.
I have also experienced this backing out of parking spaces when the wheel is turned hard. I can recreate the issue simply by doing tight circles in a parking lot. The front passenger in the car can also hear the thumping. I found another 2012 CAMRY SE owner at work and we recreated the same exact issue in the work parking lot. You actually feel the front tire skid a bit or get that sensation.
OK - the dealer called me today after having their mechanic test drive the car. They told me this is NORMAL and even the new 2014 Camry does the same thing. They said the new electronic steering makes this noise on sharp or extreme turns and it's not like the old intermediate steering shaft problems they had before.
my 1992 BMW 3-series makes a horrible noise when I turn the wheel sharply in either direction. the noise however gets better as the car warms up, and after half an hour of driving has gone away. if I turn the engine off for an hour and start it up again, the noise is back. my sister think it's the steering column. my brother-in-law thinks it's the power steering pump, or some kind of really complicated switch to do with RPM that I don't understand.
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with the steering. Sometimes a clicking noise is coming out from the front left side when I sharply turn the wheels or hit the brake. The car was in a local garage today and they couldn't find the problem. 2 mechanics checked the suspension, cv joint, axle, wheel bearing... also 1 of them driven the car and found nothing. Tomorrow I show them the clip below.
Hyundai Sonata Steering Noise - YouTube ....
What it could be?
This happened about a year ago when I quickly started and shut it right off. I googled something and I found a sequence, procedure. Something about open door open switch wait etc, it worked started right up. Now I been stuck for 2 days looking and can't find it.All I have is regular metal key. 1997 f150....
View 6 RepliesBackground: No A/C. Identified Clutch had completely failed. I replaced the clutch.
Status: I turned on the A/C and I saw the clutch come on...it was on for maybe 60s. During that time, the vents started to get cold! After 60s it never came on again.
Troubleshooting: I have refrigeration gauges but not much idea how to read the result. I hooked them up and noted about 350psi for the HP side, and about 100psi for the LP side. I think this tells me I should have enough charge in the system to cycle the compressor.
At this point I don't want to start random troubleshooting as I don't want to touch the refrigerant loop more than necessary. A few questions:
1) The HPCO switch, I was reading that it's mounted on a Shrader valve. Is this the case? I'd like to remove it and test at which point it switches. I have not tried bypassing it.
2) Do our vehicles have a temperature sensor near the evaporator? If so, whereabouts is it located?
My 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
I just bought a 2010 Escape XLT 4 cyl. The mpg is showing to be 16.7, which is really low compared to what it's supposed to be. I bought it off of a car lot and it had been discounted so I'm guessing it was sitting there for a while before it was sold. Do you think that would cause the mpg to be low? I've driven it on the highway and around town. I've had it for 2 days, but it's freaking me out thinking that there is something wrong with it.
View 4 RepliesGet a set of real gauges if you want to do diagnostics. 110 psi on the low side indicates that the system isn't running at the time and that the underhood temp is around 100 F.
View 1 Replies