Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Changing Alternator - Way To Get It Out?
Feb 25, 2006
Had to change the alternator in the 3.0l fwd escape. if some one knows of an easy way to get it out i would love to know. We had to take the manifold cover off right down to the "o" rings as well as what ever we could undo to make a gap between the engine and the fire wall. it took us so long that the repair shop was closed and we had to leave my engine apart overnight with tissue stuffed in the pistons. The one part you know your going to have to get to to fix, and it's almost impossible to get at. It would have been easier to tilt the engine, but we had no hoist, is there an easier way...
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
My son's escape has been parked for about 6 mos... alternator went out and I refused to pay to fix it due to some disciplinary issues with him. Anyhow, yesterday I went out to go look at it and the hood won't open. When I parked it I took out the battery and shut the hood. Never had an issue opening the hood prior.
When I pull the lever, its real tight - like the cable is not really moving or if it is, it cant be much. I'm afraid it might break if I keep pulling. I tried having him pull it while I pushed and pulled on the hood, still stuck. I have no clue why or how it is stuck, but wondering on any way to get it open. I can't really see in there...through the grill or under the hood.
View 3 Replies
The 3 pin connector that connects to the alternator, I broke the clip. Do the local auto stores sell that connector in a pigtail form so I can just cut the broken one off and solder the new one in? I'm sure someone has broken that clip before.
View 6 Replies
I was having problems with my 02 Escape of misfire on cylinders. After doing a lot of checking, changing spark plugs, changing coils, ect, I decided that it could be the computer. So, I ordered one and put it in. When I turned on the key, all the gauges pegged and then came back to zero, but it acted like someone cut the power line to the starter. No click, no nothing. I checked fuses and they are fine. Even changed them around to make sure. Is there something that I have to do when you change the computer to get it to start? Had no problems with the starter prior, so it has to be something associated with the computer and changing it.
View 3 Replies
My wheel bearing in the rear went..as its roaring when driving and shop told me wheel bearing needs replaced. I am a bit handy. Is it a big job to change a rear wheel bearing on a 2002 ford escape 3 litre. What tools would I need...don't need a press for wheel bearing on this model, not sure....
View 1 Replies
So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
View 4 Replies
The alternator light on my 2001 Ford Escape 3.0L comes on intermittently. I've replace the alternator, belt, tensioner, and battery. I've check the wiring and the ground and there are no noticeable issues. When I first start up it never comes on. After about 30-40 minutes of driving it will start to come on intermittently. I've noticed that it always shuts off when taking off from a stop. I have the most trouble with it coming on while driving around the city and little trouble while cruising on the highway. I'm completely stumped. Is it possible for one of the other pulleys to be causing this if for instance some bearings were going bad and it was binding up or problems with the crankshaft slowing down the belt?
View 13 Replies
Trying to change the stupid alternator in my 99 A6, which is the same engine/accessory layout as the B5 Passat.
And I didn't realize what I was in for. Is there any way to get to this puppy without dropping the entire front end? By looking at it (nobody stocks Audi,Bentley) it looks like the front end has to come apart all the way to the radiator support..........
View 3 Replies
My car is a 2.0 AEG manual for reference.
So, my alternator died last night and when I changed it this morning, I fired her up and now when I turn my light switch one click I can see my high beam light illuminated on the dash. If I have the switch on any setting, it's illuminated but no lights are on out front except the dtr lights. Turn signals work fine and so do the brake/tail lights. I checked the fuses for both low/high beams but they were fine. I saw someone mention an ignition switch while I was searching but I'd rather get other opinions whether it is that or not.
Edit: My original test drive the car ran fine minus the headlight issue. But upon driving it through the city when I was coming to a stop at a redlight the battery light came back on and it died. It fired right back up and barely made it across the street to a parking lot before it died again. It'll fire up but won't stay on. On my way to an parts store for charging system check.
View 6 Replies
Background: No A/C. Identified Clutch had completely failed. I replaced the clutch.
Status: I turned on the A/C and I saw the clutch come on...it was on for maybe 60s. During that time, the vents started to get cold! After 60s it never came on again.
Troubleshooting: I have refrigeration gauges but not much idea how to read the result. I hooked them up and noted about 350psi for the HP side, and about 100psi for the LP side. I think this tells me I should have enough charge in the system to cycle the compressor.
At this point I don't want to start random troubleshooting as I don't want to touch the refrigerant loop more than necessary. A few questions:
1) The HPCO switch, I was reading that it's mounted on a Shrader valve. Is this the case? I'd like to remove it and test at which point it switches. I have not tried bypassing it.
2) Do our vehicles have a temperature sensor near the evaporator? If so, whereabouts is it located?
View 10 Replies
My 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
View 14 Replies
I just bought a 2010 Escape XLT 4 cyl. The mpg is showing to be 16.7, which is really low compared to what it's supposed to be. I bought it off of a car lot and it had been discounted so I'm guessing it was sitting there for a while before it was sold. Do you think that would cause the mpg to be low? I've driven it on the highway and around town. I've had it for 2 days, but it's freaking me out thinking that there is something wrong with it.
View 4 Replies
Get a set of real gauges if you want to do diagnostics. 110 psi on the low side indicates that the system isn't running at the time and that the underhood temp is around 100 F.
View 1 Replies
Ok, so I've got a little of an odd issue. It seems that no matter what I do, the AC is always active. Today I reverse flushed the heater core in my 02 Escape, and verified all hoses were clear. I replaced the thermostat housing (other thread) along with a new thermostat.
But, when I run the car, even with the heat full up and the selector set to the defroster and floor, the ac still blows ICE cold. It seems like it is still engaged no matter what. Winter is coming and I dont want my daughter to freeze (her truck).
View 2 Replies
How can I test to find out if there is water in my fuel tank , fuel lines, etc. The symptoms are obvious, how do I test for sure. In the event that I'm correct, what can I do to get it out of the tank and fuel system.
I suspect that a lower form of life has put water in the gas tank of my 2003 Escape 3.0L . I sent it to a shop, that was a nightmare . They came up with every misfire and etc. Including bad windshield wipers burned out light bulbs .
Trying to sell me new coils plugs , etc etc ... even though I kept telling them that of course its misfiring if there is water in the fuel. Please test for water in the gas .
I finally went and took the car with intake plenum pulled off. Paid them half of R&R for pulling the plenum and I'm back to square one. They did everything but check for water in my gas tank or fuel lines.
View 14 Replies
I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
View 9 Replies
My daughters 2010 Escape (V6 - 3.0L motor) had the check engine light come on back in February, while she was away at school. Well, now she is home and I want to fix it. I have tried all the things I can think of and have found on the web, but no success. I pulled the whole Evap canister assembly down and tested the Evap vent solenoid by itself, and it works (opens and closes). Physically can see if cycle when I apply 12v to it. When I reinstalled it I cleaned up the o-rings and lightly greased them up to seal better in case they were leaking by. Before pulling the whole unit down, I checked and with the key on, there is 12v on the plug feeding this solenoid, but I physically wanted to see it move and it looks good.
Next, I pulled the hose feeding the top of the purge valve, located under the hood, to see if I had vacuum leaking when the car was running. I did not, so if I understand the operation correctly, I am good there as well. What else could be causing the car to dump this code??
View 8 Replies
I had a misfire and my CEL came on had it read and it said cylinder 4 was misfiring and that there was a misfire in the first 1,000 RPM's. I replaced the COP and plug and now I'm getting terrible MPG. I tried to reset the PCM by removing the Neg. battery connection and it seemed to work for 4 days now my MPG has gone bad again. It seems to run smooth/good.
View 1 Replies
ACCessory power (Key On) 12v can take anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes after the engine is on. Haven't tried leaving key on engine off for that long, but I would assume it would eventually give power to ACC too.
There is the greenishyellow and black wire to the sound system which is supposed to be key on 12v, and the lower power port (cig lighter type) only gets power after key on.
Its been doing this for years...and I swear it happened after one night of leaving the lights on. Battery has been replaced since, but ever since that once time.
It does always come on, eventually. Doesn't matter if warm or not. If you turn off key, it takes random 2 to 10 minutes to get power back to ACC.
View 5 Replies
I've just replaced a front ABS tone ring on my 2003 Escape and I'm ready to replace the axle nut (I've got a new one, as per Ford's recommendation) and torque up. I've heard that you're supposed to torque the axle nut *before* you put the wheels back on the ground, but I have the factory service manual for the 2003 Escape and I can't find anything to back that up.
I've looked at every listed procedure I can think of that involves removing and replacing the axle nut, and none of them specify that you must torque the nut with the wheels in the air.
It would be easier for me to do it with the wheels on the ground, but would I be risking bearing damage if I did that?
View 9 Replies
2004 Ford Escape 2WD 3.0L with about 81,000 miles.
Problem: 2 possibly related
1) If warm up (get to about 190+ degrees) and then cut off engine. Does not start. If I wait about 30 secs and play the gas pedal, then I can get it to start with high revs and after about 15 secs runs normally. Or, I can disconnect the air intake and it'll start fine. But if you stop and try to start again, no joy unless playing with gas pedal.
2) After driving about 20-25 mins, it seems to randomly stall-out while going about 40 mph. When it stalls out, it will restart again after about 30 secs.
Note: Neither of the above throw any codes.
Here's my problem chart after mining the other posts:
Thing to replace/do //// No Code /// Stall while driving /// Won't restart when hot
Fuel Pump //// Yes /// Yes /// Doubt it
Fuel Filter //// Yes /// Yes /// Don't think so
CKP Sensor //// Yes /// Yes /// Yes
CMP Sensor //// Unlikely /// ? /// Possibly
ECT //// Maybe? /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
IAC Valve //// Unlikely /// Yes /// No
Thermostat //// Yes /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
MAF sensor //// Unlikely /// No /// Yes
What I've done:
- Well, I started looking at the vacuum lines and they were crumbling so I replaced all those (to EGR and all that).
- There is a mystery line that appears to come up from the canister and go to nothing--is this some kind of atmospheric vent?
- My cheap scan tool also shows engine temps getting up to 216 degrees if I make it work (idle high at 2000+ rpm), so I'm suspicious of the cooling system and thinking maybe the ECU is shutting down to avoid overheating.
I'm going to start with flushing the coolant and replacing the ECT and thermostat while doing so. This is relatively inexpensive and ECT can do weird things. The restart problem is consistent, so I'll know if I fixed that right away.
View 2 Replies
