I am having an issue with my 2008 Ford Escape XLT. It seems that my A/C and Heater fan isnt working properly. Basically, air only comes out when i put the fan speed to 4. With 1-3, no air comes out. If the A/C or Heat is on, I can feel cold air or heat coming out but the actual fan isn't running. It only runs when it is set to 4. What the problem could be?
View 7 RepliesI thought my tranny shift points had gone a little nutty. This afternoon, it suddenly seemed as if it were starting off in 2nd gear...then the OD light started flashing. Now, when you put it in 1st gear manually, or reverse, it's like it's in park. Can't push the truck or anything...put it in drive or 2nd, and it starts off slowly. Once it picks up speed, all seems well. Definitely not starting off in 1st or going into reverse at all. Have y'all seen this problem before?
View 9 RepliesWhat is the inside diameter of an '05 Escape heater core hose?
View 5 RepliesThe ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 1 RepliesFitted new snow tires with the intent of leaving them on year round. Now find that the Escape is pretty well un drivable due to shake at all speeds. Balance has been checked by two tire shops. I think that the problem is that the deep blocks of tread are "squirming"The tires are surprisingly quiet but unfortunately will have to go.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
View 4 RepliesGet a set of real gauges if you want to do diagnostics. 110 psi on the low side indicates that the system isn't running at the time and that the underhood temp is around 100 F.
View 1 RepliesI am working on a 2006 Escape that originally came in with a misfire. It had three bad coils, and they had burned out three of the coil drivers in the computer. It had a new computer put in, but will not communicate with the scanner now to program the keys. The old computer would still communicate, and the vehicle can be started and run on three cylinders with that computer, but unfortunately it needs to run a bit better than that. Is there something I am missing about getting communication with a new computer?
View 7 RepliesMy wife just picked up the 2015 Escape 3 weeks ago. This is now the 3rd time back to the dealership with it where nothig on the dash is working. No information center, no speedometer, no tach, no fuel gauge, no temp gauge, and even the entire media screen is powerless. So in turn, a lot of the temp controls and radio are gone.
The first time was on a weekend, I pulled the fuse that powers the entire dash to check it, it was fine and upon putting it back in, everything worked. Still had it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. The 2nd time was this past weekend, we decided to leave it so the service team could see what we were talking about. They again, reset the fuse (still wasn't blown), tightened a couple connections, but really couldn't find anything wrong with it.
The 3rd time was just this morning and the vehicle is currently with Ford now. Obviously warrantied, but did their dealership find what the issue was? We really love the Escape, when everything works right.
I have a 2007 Camry SE-V6 and recently noticed my heater is not working properly. The fan dial works fine and I can adjust the speed of the fan no problem. When I adjust from the defroster, to the feet, to the face etc.. I don't hear that noise I usually hear of the system opening or closing the appropriate vents in behind the dash - all I hear is the fan blower going - as though it's just blowing on my windshield but no air seems to be coming in any of the vents (ie. if I put the dial to the face and the fan speed on high, no air comes out the vents).
If I adjust the temperature, I can feel heat is there vs. cold but since no air is blowing out (all I hear is the blower fan going), I don't get any heat in the cabin. Is this a fuse problem or something more serious? I have about 70,000km so I'm out warranty of course....
I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
The cruise control has not worked on my 2001 escape since i bought it a few weeks back. i checked the usual culprits and everything is good. i plugged my scanner in and got a control module code.
c1945- park switch indicates park with vehicle moving.
I did do some live data testing and it does infact show park when in gear. the display on the dash shows the proper position.
I am almost certain this is the issue with my cruise. Where this sensor is? Doing a parts lookup isn't showing much.
She has a 2010 Escape 4-cyl and the A/C isn't working. It's miserable hot and she has small kids.
The compressor won't start. I put a gage set on the low pressure side and it's sky high, so it should be coming on at least. I also used a Launch scan tool on the OBD port and the HVAC control is commanding the compressor to start, so it's not that - which leaves the $300 compressor or the $9 a/c relay as the next steps. Unfortunately, I only see this car occasionally so I haven't really been able to get under it to check for voltage at the a/c compressor or see if it's a ground issue, etc.
I'd like to go after the relay next but can't find a a diagram I trust as to which one it is. I've heard mention that it's the WOT relay and also that there's an A/C Clutch relay. Any reliable schematic of the underhood fuse block and which position it's in? I took the cover off and they're numbered but there's no map. Also, what p/n is the relay? I'd like to just pop in a new one and see if it takes care of it.
The passenger door on my 2002 Escape is locked and the power lock is not working on that door. The door is closed, how to get it open.
View 14 RepliesBlower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
View 1 Replies2002 Escape. The over drive deselect button stopped working on my wife's escape. Is their a fuse other than the box under the hood? Transmission was rebuilt not too long aga and has been running fine till the other day.
View 2 RepliesCouple weeks ago, was in a spot that needed 4wd. Turned the switch, the 4x4 dash light came on, but rear wheels didn't do anything. Lucky that we were able to get out with ft wheels only. Has 3.0, xlt version.
View 13 RepliesSo I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
Background: No A/C. Identified Clutch had completely failed. I replaced the clutch.
Status: I turned on the A/C and I saw the clutch come on...it was on for maybe 60s. During that time, the vents started to get cold! After 60s it never came on again.
Troubleshooting: I have refrigeration gauges but not much idea how to read the result. I hooked them up and noted about 350psi for the HP side, and about 100psi for the LP side. I think this tells me I should have enough charge in the system to cycle the compressor.
At this point I don't want to start random troubleshooting as I don't want to touch the refrigerant loop more than necessary. A few questions:
1) The HPCO switch, I was reading that it's mounted on a Shrader valve. Is this the case? I'd like to remove it and test at which point it switches. I have not tried bypassing it.
2) Do our vehicles have a temperature sensor near the evaporator? If so, whereabouts is it located?
My 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
I just bought a 2010 Escape XLT 4 cyl. The mpg is showing to be 16.7, which is really low compared to what it's supposed to be. I bought it off of a car lot and it had been discounted so I'm guessing it was sitting there for a while before it was sold. Do you think that would cause the mpg to be low? I've driven it on the highway and around town. I've had it for 2 days, but it's freaking me out thinking that there is something wrong with it.
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