Ford Escape / Hybrid :: A/C Always Blows Ice Cold?
Oct 15, 2016
Ok, so I've got a little of an odd issue. It seems that no matter what I do, the AC is always active. Today I reverse flushed the heater core in my 02 Escape, and verified all hoses were clear. I replaced the thermostat housing (other thread) along with a new thermostat.
But, when I run the car, even with the heat full up and the selector set to the defroster and floor, the ac still blows ICE cold. It seems like it is still engaged no matter what. Winter is coming and I dont want my daughter to freeze (her truck).
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape XLS (4 cylinder) that currently is having an issue with the AC system. It blows the air at the correct temp but it only comes out of the primary vents. If i select defroster or floor vents, it doesn't switch over to those. What specifically should I be looking at to fix it.
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The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
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The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
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I have a 2001 Escape, V6 engine and I guess it really does not like it when it's cold outside. Usually the car runs just perfect but when the winter arrives and temps drop into the 20s the truck does not want to run idle right when I first start it. I have tried by stating it without touching the gas pedal. And also by pushing it all the way down and then releasing it. I don't know which method is the right one, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It takes some time and eventually after about 5 miles of driving it will act normal again. What could I do to fix that?
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Trouble starting our 2008 escape after she has been sitting for atleast 4-5 hours (or more) We can get it going usually but we have to attempt several times before it 'catches'. After running and turning off, it starts no problem. Have replaced mas and didn't work. No 'check engine soon light' so just trying to narrow down the problem. Have replaced the fuel filter and all the spark plugs. Love my escape but not when it doesn't start!!
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My 12 Escape with the 3.0, shifts fine in warm weather or in cold weather when warmed up. But first thing on a cold morning she's a bit of a screamer getting into the next gear. Is this a signal of something about to go wrong? Is there an easy adjustment? Or this is the way of it and it is fine......
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape. When started cold, it revs up to abt 3000 rpm. Slowly drops back to about 1000 in abt 10 secs. When the engine is hot, it often wants to idle 2500+ rpms and I have to really step on the brakes to slow the vehicle. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. When it is revving high, I can disconnect and reconnect the IAC quickly, and the idle will drop back down for a few minutes, until I step on the accelerator, then start climbing again. It seems to be a lot worse when hot.
I replaced the IAC and TPS about 20k miles ago and thought it was fixed, but the problem has returned. At that time, I could tap on the IAC and it would "get well" for a while. Tapping on this one doesn't seem to change anything. No CEL, engine runs smooth, and I don't notice any air leaks (none that I've found, at least).
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I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
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I got a 2001 Escape XLT (V6) a couple of months ago. Its in great condition, only 82k miles on it too. It had the notorious door handle issues which I have had fixed. It also had the wet weather stuttering problem, which I had fixed by having all 6 spark plugs replaced (Motorcraft OEM plugs), the back 3 coils replaced, upper intake gaskets replaced, Valve cover gasket replaced, PCV valve replaced (motorcraft).
It runs great when its warm, the problem I am having is when its cold outside and the engine is cold, it starts up fine but idles like crap and if its really cold outside, it starts and dies 3 or 4 times before it can even get to the crappy, stuttering idle. I have to intermittently feed it gas to keep the cold idle going long enough (3 or 4 minutes) before I can drive it. Once the engine is warm it drives like a champ. The only warm engine issue, is occasionally after driving it and putting it in park, the engine will rev up to 2000, 3000+ rpms, and just keep going up until I shut the engine off.
The codes read P0171 and P0174, which are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. It had also thrown a misfire on cyl 6 but once I cleared that it hasn't come back, just the lean codes are still present.
From what Ive been reading, this can be a number of issues, ranging from the IAC valve, EGR valve, MAF or the lower intake gaskets. I'm very much a rookie when it comes to car mechanics, but I think I can handle changing the IAC, EGR and MAF since they are all on top of the engine. However I don't know if I could handle the lower intake gaskets. Ironically, the gaskets are the cheapest part, but the most labor if I paid someone else to do it.
If I replace the EGR, do I also need to replace the EGR Modulator as well? Looking for brand names that are best bang for the buck when it comes to these other parts I have mentioned?
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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2004 Ford Escape air conditioner works GREAT when sitting idle. Air conditioner blows HOT air while driving. Seems like the faster I go or the more load on the engine the hotter it blows. Weird?
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I have a Buick park avenue 1998, 3.8L V6 engine. the problem is: The ac vent on the driver's side blows cold air but on the passenger side blows EXTREMELY hot air. no matter how cold or hot you set the ac it blows at the same temperature on both sides. Florida heat is setting in and my passengers are melting. I am really hopping that is not something to bad and that I can fix it myself. Tip: this started happening after i had the alternator and the battery replaced.
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Background: No A/C. Identified Clutch had completely failed. I replaced the clutch.
Status: I turned on the A/C and I saw the clutch come on...it was on for maybe 60s. During that time, the vents started to get cold! After 60s it never came on again.
Troubleshooting: I have refrigeration gauges but not much idea how to read the result. I hooked them up and noted about 350psi for the HP side, and about 100psi for the LP side. I think this tells me I should have enough charge in the system to cycle the compressor.
At this point I don't want to start random troubleshooting as I don't want to touch the refrigerant loop more than necessary. A few questions:
1) The HPCO switch, I was reading that it's mounted on a Shrader valve. Is this the case? I'd like to remove it and test at which point it switches. I have not tried bypassing it.
2) Do our vehicles have a temperature sensor near the evaporator? If so, whereabouts is it located?
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My 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
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I just bought a 2010 Escape XLT 4 cyl. The mpg is showing to be 16.7, which is really low compared to what it's supposed to be. I bought it off of a car lot and it had been discounted so I'm guessing it was sitting there for a while before it was sold. Do you think that would cause the mpg to be low? I've driven it on the highway and around town. I've had it for 2 days, but it's freaking me out thinking that there is something wrong with it.
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Get a set of real gauges if you want to do diagnostics. 110 psi on the low side indicates that the system isn't running at the time and that the underhood temp is around 100 F.
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Had to change the alternator in the 3.0l fwd escape. if some one knows of an easy way to get it out i would love to know. We had to take the manifold cover off right down to the "o" rings as well as what ever we could undo to make a gap between the engine and the fire wall. it took us so long that the repair shop was closed and we had to leave my engine apart overnight with tissue stuffed in the pistons. The one part you know your going to have to get to to fix, and it's almost impossible to get at. It would have been easier to tilt the engine, but we had no hoist, is there an easier way...
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How can I test to find out if there is water in my fuel tank , fuel lines, etc. The symptoms are obvious, how do I test for sure. In the event that I'm correct, what can I do to get it out of the tank and fuel system.
I suspect that a lower form of life has put water in the gas tank of my 2003 Escape 3.0L . I sent it to a shop, that was a nightmare . They came up with every misfire and etc. Including bad windshield wipers burned out light bulbs .
Trying to sell me new coils plugs , etc etc ... even though I kept telling them that of course its misfiring if there is water in the fuel. Please test for water in the gas .
I finally went and took the car with intake plenum pulled off. Paid them half of R&R for pulling the plenum and I'm back to square one. They did everything but check for water in my gas tank or fuel lines.
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I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
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