Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2012 V6 - Tug / Jerk / Shudder At Highway Speed
Aug 22, 2015
I'm experiencing the tug/jerk/shuddering in my 2012 Escape v6. It happens more around 70mph or 2,000-2,500rpm.
Tug/jerk/lurch/buck happens even more with OD off. Happens around 60mph or 2000rpm with OD off.
Been to the dealer several times even test drove with a mechanic that acknowledges the tug/jerk sensation. No codes or faults. Last visit the dealer showed me a print out of misfire counts and all cylinders were 0 yet on the drive home it was tug/jerk/lurching.
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I have noticed that my vehicles engine fan runs at max speed (and is very loud) all the time. Regardless of outside temperature, engine temperature, climate control settings, etc. It runs like that from the second I turn it on until I shut it off.
I have done some research online and found that people with a similar concern have been told that it could possibly be either the Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. I know that it could be a wide variety of issues, however it seemed as though these were common (and relatively easy) solutions. Does anything think either/both of these could be the problem? If so, need info about the proper part and instructions/video on how to install the new parts.
I would much rather spend ~$50 for two parts than screw around taking it in. If my attempts dont work, at least I know that I have 2 new parts in there. Or is this not really anything that I should worry about?
Additionally, my climate control settings dont all work. And I have found through research that I need to replace the blower resistor. Would this have any impact on the engine fan? I drive a 2012 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6
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My wife and I have a 2002 Escape and basically love it, however, at my last oil change, at 26,000 miles, I told the service manager about a shudder I was getting from the transmission when it down-shifted from overdrive. He suggested a transmission fluid change since I was in the range that Ford recommends.
That totally corrected the problem for almost 4000 miles, however, the shudder is slowly starting to come back at 30000 miles.
Just yesterday, I took it to my Ford dealer for inspection, oil change and it's 30000 mile check up and I mentioned this problem to the service manager. He suggested that I make an appointment.
The problem is that right now, it is happening so infrequently, if they took it for a test drive, it might happen right away, or not at all, but I know it will get worse as time goes on.
Question. Should I wait until the problem gets worse, and second, what might be the cause?
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I just picked up my 2016 4 cylinder Camry 2 weeks ago and have 1000 miles on it. I noticed that sometimes when it shifts it shifts a little bit rough, not sure if I would call it a jerk or shudder but its more pronounced to the point I can feel the shifts. Is this normal for this transmission or is this something I should have checked out?
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I got off the highway today and was at a very long light, but enough time to feel my car making slight jerking movements and i saw the car raise a little over an inch.
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My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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Just wanted to post a recent experience I had with the catalytic converter issues Escapes seem to be prone to. A friend has a 2003 Escape 4x4 with the 3.0 V-6 and automatic transmission. It has 141,000 miles on it, she bought it with 40,000 miles on the vehicle.
Recently it developed driveability issues: No power with a whistling noise and top speed of 10 M.P.H. I researched on here and her symptoms matched threads that came up using the search function. I told her I was pretty sure the front cat was bad and had plugged the rear cat, causing the issue. She took it to a local repair shop and confirmed my diagnosis. Their estimate for repair was north of $1,500.00. My neighbor and I were sure we could repair it cheaper.
We towed it to my house and pulled the front and rear-most cats. As suspected they were both bad. The back cat on the engine looked pristine inside so we left it alone. We ordered all of our parts from rockauto. New front and rear-most cats, exhaust and intake gaskets, serpentine belt, and one O2 sensor that was damaged when the insides of the front cat let go.
Installation was straight forward with no major issues. We also changed the plugs with brand new ones she had purchased but never had installed. The vehicle now runs fantastic and she is extremely happy with it.
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ok this has me stumped I get this buzzing/humming/vibration sound from what seems like around Defroster passenger side but it is not all the time only at higher speeds and it it intermittent . I have removed cabin filter and cleaned filter box and checked for a leaf or something even sealed somewhat the plastic shield that covers the cabin filter. I really don't want to rip dash apart but it is so annoying
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Recently picked up a 2007 Escape with 108,000 miles. The vehicle is in great condition with a full service history. Recently I've noticed a bit of shimmy in the steering wheel and noise from the front drivers side wheel accompanying the shimmy.
At speeds of 50mph+ the shimmy will start. When going straight there is not much of an issue but when a gradual right hand turn on the highway the shimmy starts. Back to straight and it goes away. Not really noticeable on left hand curves.
Steering issue?
Tie Rods?
Bearings?
I'm going to dig into it to get it fixed.
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The A/C on my 2012 Escape keeps freezing up. Happens mostly on highway and humid days. It's been to the dealership and had literally everything except the hoses/lines replaced.
The final paperwork from Ford said to run it only on the recirculate setting when running the a/c. This works but I really would prefer the fresh air setting.
I feel there is a problem with the system but maybe it's a design flaw instead of an equipment malfunction? Humid and warm weather.
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I am having issues with the wife's escape and the a/c compressor not kicking on(It will turn on for a split second when first fired up if the a/c is set to on but then turns right back off). I am getting a static pressure on the low side of 120 PSI, I have yet been unable to see what pressure shows when the compressor kicks on for a split second. I have confirmed the compressor relay is good and I don't see any blown fuses or anything else out of place.
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I've read quite a bit in various threads about the large vacuum elbow collapsing, causing erratic idle speeds. My 2001 3.0 had that issue int he past. I shoved a 1/2" copper 45 degree elbow inside of the rubber elbow, and the problem was solved... until a few days ago.
We're now getting into the hot part of summer here. I've notice the same symptoms are beginning to return, once the engine compartment gets hot. My question is... is the large vacuum line a "hard line" all the rest of the way to the engine, or are there other places along it's length that can also collapse under vacuum?
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
[URL] .....
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My liftgate glass will not open but the liftgate will. Dashboard indicates that the glass is open. Can not open with key fob either. What this problem may be.
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I just put on new winter tires and rims on my 2012 Escape and after driving about 6 miles, the low tire pressure light came on. Is there is a procedure to learn the vehicle to the new tires?
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My 12 Escape with the 3.0, shifts fine in warm weather or in cold weather when warmed up. But first thing on a cold morning she's a bit of a screamer getting into the next gear. Is this a signal of something about to go wrong? Is there an easy adjustment? Or this is the way of it and it is fine......
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I want to not only upgrade to LED lighting, but I want to add to the single bulb fixture found in the center dome light (between the front and rear seats).
I can get the cover off OK, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the fixture itself. There are what appears to be press fit style plugs (similar to what you would expect in a door panel) but there is also half-slots making it look like one side pops out and the other side slides off the mounting plug.
How to remove it without breaking it?
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The cooling fan runs on high as soon as the a/c is turned on, regardless of the engine temp. I have the sensor(6F9Z-19D594-AA) that mounts on top of the accumulator. If i replace the existing sensor, will the refrigerant leak out?
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Have a 2012 gas powered Escape XLT, 2.5L 4 cylinder.
I need to replace the evap purge valve. Looking at youtube videos and from other posts it seems easy to replace. My problem is where is it located on this Escape?
Is it under the hood or underneath the driver's side? This is just the valve mind you, not the canister in the back.
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I think I forgot to reset the oil life indicator at my last oil change, however I am not 100% positive.
Is the oil change indicator purely based on time/miles driven, or does it have any sort of sensors that actually detect issues with the oil?
I've heard some vehicles do actually do basic checks rather than purely being time/mileage based.
Anyway, I am no where near the miles or time interval from the previous oil change so if there aren't any magical sensors I'll just reset the life.
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I realize that is vague. I realize it could be anything from a wheel bearing to a ball joint, tie rod, control arm/control arm bushing, etc.
Are there any very common front-end steering or suspension issues on 2012 escapes? When tires are inflated to 32-34psi, the car tracks straight, gets great mileage --but almost sounds/feels like it's got a CV or wheel bearing issue on the front right. Every time I hit the brakes while backing out of the driveway I can hear a slight bump or pop. When the car is parked (flat, tires straight) there is slight play left-to-right in the steering wheel.
I'm a German car guy. Have never touched this car. (Wife's car) Right tire is wearing bad on inside. Looking for some direction so I can assess. Car has 88k miles. This will be a DIY fix. Don't have any manuals or anything so just looking for a heads up where to start. Also is Haynes the best way to go? Is there a Bentley? Anything online/CD/DVD?
Play in steering wheel makes me think tie rod (fine because easy/cheap) but such excessive wear on the inside right front makes me think wheel bearing. Could it be both? This is AWD. Is this (like a Subaru) a CV joint where the front spindle passes through a strut base that everything attaches to --so there's an inner and outer wheel bearing?
Does anything up front require a press or can it all be done without a press?
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