My 12 Escape with the 3.0, shifts fine in warm weather or in cold weather when warmed up. But first thing on a cold morning she's a bit of a screamer getting into the next gear. Is this a signal of something about to go wrong? Is there an easy adjustment? Or this is the way of it and it is fine......
View 14 RepliesI think I forgot to reset the oil life indicator at my last oil change, however I am not 100% positive.
Is the oil change indicator purely based on time/miles driven, or does it have any sort of sensors that actually detect issues with the oil?
I've heard some vehicles do actually do basic checks rather than purely being time/mileage based.
Anyway, I am no where near the miles or time interval from the previous oil change so if there aren't any magical sensors I'll just reset the life.
I've got an 01 Ford Escape 4 cyl 5spd awd, it idled low when its warm, revs between shifts and if you put it in nuetral and let the clutch out when you're moving it revs to 3500rpms and just sits there until you stop or push the clutch back in. I've replaced the iacv and the pcv valve, elbow and hose, and the tps. What to look at next?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Escape XLT V6 4X4. About 3 months ago I started to experience rough idle in the morning. It went a away for a month or so, but it is back now. I noticed that it occurs primarily after the vehicle has sat for long periods of time. More than 10 hours, give or take, and it happens, less than 10 and it generally doesn't. When the issue does occur it sometimes almost stalls. I can tell the computer attempts to make up for it usually. The check engine light came on originally but hasn't since, a mechanic could not pull any code and could not reproduce. The issue disappears within 3 to 5 minutes usually after everything seems to warm up. I'm had regular maintenance and I am an 75k. I've even tried using gas additives and tried a high grade of gasoline to no avail.
View 17 RepliesSo a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?
Ok, so I've got a little of an odd issue. It seems that no matter what I do, the AC is always active. Today I reverse flushed the heater core in my 02 Escape, and verified all hoses were clear. I replaced the thermostat housing (other thread) along with a new thermostat.
But, when I run the car, even with the heat full up and the selector set to the defroster and floor, the ac still blows ICE cold. It seems like it is still engaged no matter what. Winter is coming and I dont want my daughter to freeze (her truck).
I have a 2001 Escape, V6 engine and I guess it really does not like it when it's cold outside. Usually the car runs just perfect but when the winter arrives and temps drop into the 20s the truck does not want to run idle right when I first start it. I have tried by stating it without touching the gas pedal. And also by pushing it all the way down and then releasing it. I don't know which method is the right one, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It takes some time and eventually after about 5 miles of driving it will act normal again. What could I do to fix that?
View 9 RepliesThe A/C on my 2012 Escape keeps freezing up. Happens mostly on highway and humid days. It's been to the dealership and had literally everything except the hoses/lines replaced.
The final paperwork from Ford said to run it only on the recirculate setting when running the a/c. This works but I really would prefer the fresh air setting.
I feel there is a problem with the system but maybe it's a design flaw instead of an equipment malfunction? Humid and warm weather.
I am having issues with the wife's escape and the a/c compressor not kicking on(It will turn on for a split second when first fired up if the a/c is set to on but then turns right back off). I am getting a static pressure on the low side of 120 PSI, I have yet been unable to see what pressure shows when the compressor kicks on for a split second. I have confirmed the compressor relay is good and I don't see any blown fuses or anything else out of place.
View 1 RepliesTrouble starting our 2008 escape after she has been sitting for atleast 4-5 hours (or more) We can get it going usually but we have to attempt several times before it 'catches'. After running and turning off, it starts no problem. Have replaced mas and didn't work. No 'check engine soon light' so just trying to narrow down the problem. Have replaced the fuel filter and all the spark plugs. Love my escape but not when it doesn't start!!
View 9 RepliesI own a 2012 Camry Hybrid XLE, but I'd imagine this issue could exist w/ any trim. Hear a slight crinkle/rattle from time to time coming from your headliner area? At times it almost sounds like someone padded your headliner with a plastic grocery bag.
I usually heard it on bumpy roads. I went through a nightmare with my dealer where they had my car for about 40 days trying to figure out the cause. They even replaced the headliner! (they did a lousy job too, w/ lots of oil smudges and scratches on my plastics)
Discovered the real cause of rattle. The sound actually comes from where the sun visor meets the headliner. The white plastic socket (pictured) where the sun visor plugs in has some wiggle room. When the car vibrates (be it from a bumpy road or what have you) it can slide against the interior cut out of the headliner. This makes an obnoxious crinkling sound.
At the moment I'm driving around with no sun visor on the passenger side-- and I also have no rattle (occasionally I might hear it from the driver side sun visor, but it's minor). I'll probably add some foam up there to add some more tension to alleviate the issue completely. Even just re-seating the sun visor and ensuring the screws are tight would probably have significant impact...
My liftgate glass will not open but the liftgate will. Dashboard indicates that the glass is open. Can not open with key fob either. What this problem may be.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Escape. When started cold, it revs up to abt 3000 rpm. Slowly drops back to about 1000 in abt 10 secs. When the engine is hot, it often wants to idle 2500+ rpms and I have to really step on the brakes to slow the vehicle. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. When it is revving high, I can disconnect and reconnect the IAC quickly, and the idle will drop back down for a few minutes, until I step on the accelerator, then start climbing again. It seems to be a lot worse when hot.
I replaced the IAC and TPS about 20k miles ago and thought it was fixed, but the problem has returned. At that time, I could tap on the IAC and it would "get well" for a while. Tapping on this one doesn't seem to change anything. No CEL, engine runs smooth, and I don't notice any air leaks (none that I've found, at least).
The past couple of cold starts (not real cold mornings though) I have experienced long crank time to start. Once started she starts normally. No time to read but I'm getting a little worried that I'll get stuck somewhere. I'll check back with my phone when I get into an area with cel service.
View 14 RepliesI just put on new winter tires and rims on my 2012 Escape and after driving about 6 miles, the low tire pressure light came on. Is there is a procedure to learn the vehicle to the new tires?
View 6 RepliesI want to not only upgrade to LED lighting, but I want to add to the single bulb fixture found in the center dome light (between the front and rear seats).
I can get the cover off OK, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the fixture itself. There are what appears to be press fit style plugs (similar to what you would expect in a door panel) but there is also half-slots making it look like one side pops out and the other side slides off the mounting plug.
How to remove it without breaking it?
The cooling fan runs on high as soon as the a/c is turned on, regardless of the engine temp. I have the sensor(6F9Z-19D594-AA) that mounts on top of the accumulator. If i replace the existing sensor, will the refrigerant leak out?
View 10 RepliesI'm experiencing the tug/jerk/shuddering in my 2012 Escape v6. It happens more around 70mph or 2,000-2,500rpm.
Tug/jerk/lurch/buck happens even more with OD off. Happens around 60mph or 2000rpm with OD off.
Been to the dealer several times even test drove with a mechanic that acknowledges the tug/jerk sensation. No codes or faults. Last visit the dealer showed me a print out of misfire counts and all cylinders were 0 yet on the drive home it was tug/jerk/lurching.
Have a 2012 gas powered Escape XLT, 2.5L 4 cylinder.
I need to replace the evap purge valve. Looking at youtube videos and from other posts it seems easy to replace. My problem is where is it located on this Escape?
Is it under the hood or underneath the driver's side? This is just the valve mind you, not the canister in the back.
I have noticed that my vehicles engine fan runs at max speed (and is very loud) all the time. Regardless of outside temperature, engine temperature, climate control settings, etc. It runs like that from the second I turn it on until I shut it off.
I have done some research online and found that people with a similar concern have been told that it could possibly be either the Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. I know that it could be a wide variety of issues, however it seemed as though these were common (and relatively easy) solutions. Does anything think either/both of these could be the problem? If so, need info about the proper part and instructions/video on how to install the new parts.
I would much rather spend ~$50 for two parts than screw around taking it in. If my attempts dont work, at least I know that I have 2 new parts in there. Or is this not really anything that I should worry about?
Additionally, my climate control settings dont all work. And I have found through research that I need to replace the blower resistor. Would this have any impact on the engine fan? I drive a 2012 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6
I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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