I have a 2011 Escape. When I punch in the entry 5 digit code on the door post, I hear a small "click" and the parking lights come on. The door locks, however, do not operate. When I use the key fob the locks do work. What the problem is?
View 4 RepliesSo a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?
My dad has an 2001 XLT 3.0 4x4 with 100,000 miles. He was having trouble with hesitation and decided to change the fuel pump. All went well and the Escape ran fine for a couple of weeks. The other day, he went to start it and nothing happened. One click and the gauges ran up and stuck. Battery was tested at Auto Zone and checked ok.
View 3 RepliesMy daughter has a 2001 Ford Escape. The small panel insert around the door handle has the vinyl/leather coming off. How do I remove this without taking the whole door panel, the large one covering the window, off? I do know what I have to do to reattach this fabric, just cant seem to get teh small panel to come off.
View 14 RepliesThe parking brake lever on my '05 Escape will not budge, is there a simple solution to this problem or do I most likely need the whole cable assembly replaced? Is there any particular spot on the cable that's most susceptible to seizing from rust that I could soak with penetrating oil to free it up? I know the inner cable comes out of the coiled metal, conduit-like outer part and is exposed where it attaches to the rear brakes. Is this most likely the spot that's causing the problem?
View 8 RepliesI just purchased a 2011 Escape to live with my 7.3 Excursion. I want to install a BU camera in the Escape. The mirror has wiring to it, do not know why.Can I use that exiting wiring? What was it for and where does it go?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Escape Limited 3.0l V6 AWD. Did a spark plug change at 115k miles for the first time per dealership recommendation. Got new plugs from dealership.
Was pretty cut and dry to replace. Did not check gap on plugs as was told they are not adjustable per dealership. Put pea sized amount of dialectric grease in the COPs and then fitted the plugs into several times with a little spin to coat evenly. Installed plugs to 11 ft.lbs. and reassembled all components without issue. Installed them one at a time so as to not mix up the coils.
I did break the 90-degree nylon quick disconnect for the fuel line that connects to the fuel supply manifold and had to purchase a new hose assembly. Reinstalled without issue.
Went to start up and engine cranks (hiccup sound) but does not turn over. The sound is weak and not a throaty crank like an engine should give. Check engine light flashes on dash and issues a frequent tone also.
Wondering what the issue is? Are they the wrong plugs? Improperly gapped? Possible the fuel line did not pressurize and there is no fuel getting to the plugs for ignition? Kind of stumped as it was a pretty cut-and-dry replacement (if such a thing is possible).
we have a 07 Escape that the brake lights stay on even with the ignition key off. I changed the brake switch twice. Thinking maybe the first may be faulty from the factory. I'm stuck on what the problem could be
View 8 RepliesCan the speedo and tack lights be dimmed to almost off with the + and - buttons either side of the headlight switch on a 2014 Escape?
View 2 RepliesI've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
Recently it rained pretty hard over here and my sunroof leaked pretty badly. Carpets were soaked, upholstery on roof got soggy, and I think some water dripped into the cluster or something maybe. So this is almost all a water damage issue I believe.
Since then, whenever i start my car there will be a series of 5 beeps that repeat 5 times, coming from the cluster. I did some research and it could be because the airbag warning lamp is out (it's light should flash when i turn the car on but it doesn't).
On top of that, the cluster gauges, lights, and radio lights, flicker for the first minute or 2 of driving and appears they flash on/off faster as i apply gas.
Applying gas also seems to interrupt the airbag beeping as the lights flicker. Car seems to run fine as far as I know other than that.
Did some more research on that and all I come across are alternator problems. From what I've read the alternator is hard to reach on 02 Escapes, and it could be very expensive so I'm REALLY hoping that's not the issue.
This 2002 ford escape 3.0 xlt 4x4. on the dash you have your transmission #s laid out . the #1 seems to always be highlighted in a square. but as you move the shifter to whatever gear you want there is another square that highlights the selected gear. Also, before when you would have it in D it would flash back and forth from D to 2 just the lights not the transmission.
View 1 RepliesThe wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
View 3 RepliesToday after school I hopped into my car and turned it on, it made a weird clanking kind of sound, but then sounded normal. I turned it off and it did the same thing again. I put the car into drive and it was so slow accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it was barely catching speed while my rpm was somewhere in the 5000's. I got home and I don't know what to do. ALSO, when my Escape is at a stoplight, it turns off and shows the engine light. What's going on. I had to put my car into park, re-ignite the car and go through, again, acceleration tremendously slow. It is a Ford Escape 2001 XLT with a new engine with 80k miles on it.
View 2 RepliesI am running into some issues with my 2011 Escape 2.5L. I am pulling a total of 7 codes. Two codes keep repeating, which those are P0455 and P0457. And I am also getting a C1963. Accompanying the engine codes, my HUD is displaying "Check Fuel Inlet" when I first turn the vehicle on.
View 10 RepliesIve got an 02 2wd escape with the v6. Its been an excellent truck until here recently. The wife has had a weird problem twice now, that I have been unable to reproduce. She says the check engine light and low oil light come on and she loses power steering. Shutting it off and restarting fixes the issue.
Took a 400 mile road trip with it last weekend and never had an issue. Only thing I noticed , the readiness meters never went ready. Even after that trip, It still shows a systems not ready code.
Tonight the wife had the issue again. Shutdown and restart fixed it. Battery cables are clean and tight, several grounds were freshly cleaned a couple months ago.
My Escape is starting to have starting problems. I go to start it and all of the instrument cluster warning lights come on, but the truck doesn't start. If I wait a little while, all of the sudden it starts but all of the sudden the cluster lights start flashing, the various warning beeps sound off, the emergency flashers go off, etc. This lasts anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes until everything resets and goes back to normal. What is causing this?
View 1 Repliesall lights work except parking lights/tail lights. have blue lights under trk had to cut wire by COPS when got dark had no tail light cut wire had shorted taped off changed fuse 15 amp slot 30 10 amp slot 40 still no tail lights. Is their a relay or module before fuse box or after or what could be wrong
View 4 RepliesSo I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
My 2011 F250 has no front or rear running lights working, mirror side marker lights not working and fog lights not working. I have checked all fuses including 30amp trailer light fuse and they are good. The fuses in the passenger kick panel are not getting energized.
I replaced the switch with a friends from same truck and no luck there. The headlights, dash lights and turn signals work fine. Here's the kicker, when I back feed 12V to the yellow/blue wire at front running light it turns them all on, including mirror lights. I've switched out relays in the box under hood and that didn't work.
When I pull the switch on dash to turn on the fog lights the indicator in the switch doesn't work either, they are both listed on the same fuse but as I said, the fuses have continuity across the blades but when I test the socket there is no voltage going to them. I have not connected a trailer to see if those are out yet but will do today.
My son parked the car and I noticed the brake lights were on. After depressing and releasing the pedal a few times the lights go off, then 2 or 3 seconds later, they're back on even when the pedal is released. This happened all of a sudden. I'll pull the switch in the morning and test it, but what else could it be but the switch, right?
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