My 2010 2.5L FWD Escape has oil on the steering boot and has run down on crossmember (?) It is equipped with Electric Power Steering. This appears to be coming from the rack and pinion but does it have fluid in it? How can you add if it does. I have 96,000 miles on the vehicle and except for a drivers door actuator and scratched drivers glass, this is only problem.
View 5 RepliesDoing trans fluid change on the 2009 -2012? Is it the same as myCD4E drain 4 refill? I know its a different fluid probably buy from Ford.
View 1 RepliesSo I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
My 2010 F-150 Lariat 5.4L 2WD Ext Cab with 76,000 miles is leaking power steering fluid. I traced it down to the cooling coil in between the radiator and the transmission cooler. It does not look easy or cheap to get out of there. Stop leak scares me a bit...
View 14 RepliesI just did a Sable 3.0 engine swap on my 01 Escape auto 4WD with 112K miles. Prior engine spun several lower end bearings. New motor runs fine. Prior to swap, trans operated fine. Didn't have any of the apparently common 2-3 flare or OD shudder problems. Car was dealer maintained and fluid looked fine - didn't look or smell burned.
Now, after the engine swap, from a stop or at low RPM situations like around a slow corner, the trans seems starved. Have to rev the engine a bit to get the pressure up, car jerks into gear and then trans operates fine. Shifts through all gears fine and goes into and out of OD fine. This happens from a stop when trying to shift into either Fwd or Rev. Feels like the trans is low on fluid, but it's not.
I drained the trans prior to doing the swap and refilled with Mercon, not Mercon V.
No engine codes. Kept my OBDII reader on while driving to see if it threw any temp codes. Still no codes.
I'm sure that the trans was reinstalled correctly. I'm sure the TC didn't cram the pump.
If I recall, there are only four trans sensors and I'm sure I hooked them up correctly.
I'd like to like this car but it's getting pretty hard. Since I bought it a month ago, I've been under it more than I've been in it.
Having issues with transmission fluid spewing out the dipstick hole? Truck is an 04 Escape and has worked great until I had a rear manifold leaking. I took the truck to our mechanic and he replaced the rear manifold cat converter. He broke 3 of the 4 bolts so he told me he had to roll the engine forward to gain access to tap out the broken bolts. Im sure he took the throttle body and intake off for more room. I Got the truck back and noticed transmission fluid all over my driveway the next day. I contacted the mechanic and he states it was nothing he did and cannot figure why this is happening. Basically told me to fly a kite!
View 14 RepliesThe other day I noticed some brownish almost chunky looking fluid all over inside the wheel well for the front passenger side wheel. Doing some research it seems like it's probably a CV boot leak because that's where most of the fluid is concentrated. I took a few pictures. I just wanna know if this is serious???
View 6 RepliesWife is operating a 08 Escape with about 31K miles on her. She loves the vehicle but since we bought it with 24K miles on it it has had a rattle under it. I assumed that it was the heat shield and i would get around to securing it but haven't yet. Here's the question. I noticed recently that about mid way back under the pass side there is a black spot developing on the concrete where she parks every day. The vehicle does not sit and idle there. Its started and is moving in about 20 every time. I have not got under there yet but was looking for possible answers as to what and where to look? Flex pipe? Bad seal on exhaust? If this is the case should a 31K mile vehicle have this issue? The vehicle is louder than a 2.3L should be but from reading that seems normal. If it is the flex is this something that a novice wrench can do?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 FWD, and the air conditioning has been blowing only to defrost for a few weeks now. After many searches online, most sources seem to agree it is a vacuum leak, as the selector switch is vacuum driven if you want anything except defrost. I popped the hood and within one minute I found one open vacuum line that looks like it has been worn in two.
The line in question goes from the vacuum canister towards the passenger side of the firewall, then goes to a T connector, then a line (the one that is broken) continues towards the heater core lines to where the break in the line is. I found a picture online of what it should look like, but I am having trouble accessing the line that goes through the firewall and behind the glove compartment. I am pretty sure this vacuum line continues through the firewall between the two heater lines, but after that I am stumped.
I popped the glove box down out of the way and I see two thin vacuum lines and a small metal "can" nearby. The black line goes from a fitting and into the A/C bundle, and the white line goes from the top of the metal canister and down into the same bundle. My main question is which line controls the AC selector, and how do I pass a replacement line through that part of the firewall to make a good connection, as it seems the break is at the firewall itself with no extra sticking out for me to connect to.
I set out to do a coolant flush but ran into an increasing number of problems. When I went to replace the thermostat I discovered one of the three bolts would not come out due to the inside thread on the thermostat housing being stripped. I purchased a brand new housing and O-ring.
When I reinstalled the thermostat (also Motorcraft brand) with the above O-ring and attached all the hoses I had a severe leak between the thermostat housing and the intake hose connecter. I diagnosed the problem as the O-ring slipping off of the lip or ledge inside the thermostat housing and not sealing all the way around.
The Motorcraft O-ring seemed like the diameter was too big for the interior lip of the thermostat housing because the ring would pop up on one side whenever I tried to fully seat it on the interior lip. I went to AutoZone and purchased an orange Duralast O-ring, and while it seemed to be a little smaller diameter than the Motorcraft it too slipped off when I tightened down the housing.
I have tried everything, and every time I tightened down the housing I did it very slowly and carefully doing an 1/4 turn at a time with the three bolts but still the O-ring would slip off.
Vehicle: 2001 Escape 3.0L V6
I'm listing here the obvious that has been changed already:
1) Valve cover gaskets
2) Oil pan gasket
3) Timing chain cover gasket
4) Upper and lower manifold gaskets (not oil related but changed)
5) PCV valve
6) Washed engine twice to remove everything and make sure nothing else burning
Problem: I still have a small leak from the top that causes smoke near or around the #4 COP on passenger (left side of the motor). But we do see some oil coming from near the PCV valve. It makes no sense and after reading what caused smoke on that side of the vehicle I changed the Timing chain cover gasket (which were finished anyway) and while was at it the oil pan but to no avail. Smoke and leak still there.
Probably not: I know that it is not the head gasket because there is no sign at all; I've never lost a drop of coolant and there is no smoke from the exhaust in back.
Suspicion: Could it be the oil separator where the PCV valve connects and makes it's way around to the other side? Is there something I am overlooking? There can't be many other places for an oil leak like that.
Coincidence ? : Even after changing all the COPS and spark plugs I found oil in the #4. However smoke was there before. I thought maybe a cylinder gasket I got second opinion from my mechanic says no not cylinder...
Engine runs well except for misfire in #4 but comes and goes. I think when oil builds up.
Tonight when I was on my way in from taking the trash out, I happened to notice a puddle under my 04 Ford Escape. The car has been sitting in its parking spot for about a week (cold and mostly sunny weather, but some light rain, frost, and ice recently) so I figured it was just a bit of moisture from melting frost...worry wort that I am, though, I decided to investigate. It looked like it was in the area of my oil pan so I thought the size of the puddle warranted an investigation. I moved the car back a bit and tried to soak up whatever it was with a paper towel (soaked moisture up, but colorless).
I checked the oil levels (puddle was the size of a it small frisbee, so I have to imagine that if it were oil, I would notice a change in the levels) and saw no change since I last checked about a month ago. While I was trying to look like I know what I am doing, I noticed a new oil drop on the pavement - under the oil pan on the drivers side. I have replaced the pan gasket within the last 2 years and know that the car has a timing cover leak, but that has been fairly limited to the passenger's side.
The oil pan looked dirty, and showed SOME evidence of an small oil leak, but the other spot I noticed worried me a bit more: behind the oil pan (looks like it is almost center of the front axel) there is a fluid leak of some kind. Whatever the fluid is, it looks to be clear and has a slight hint of an odor (not sweet, not oily...sort of like stale water). When I turned the car on to back it up, I had the defrosters running. All in all, I would say they were on a total of 45 seconds, but the "water" is still dripping several hours later.
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2008 with approximately 105,000 miles. I had my left inner tire rod replaced a couple days ago and today I notice a leak under the vehicle by the boot. There was not a leak previously. I had the tire rod replaced because it was loose and notice by the mechanic who was doing the front wheel alignment. Could the mechanic have damaged something that caused the leak? What could cause this leak? The vehicle seems to be steering just fine.
View 2 RepliesSteering column recall ? The ford sites don't have much info yet. What is involved steering column replacement ? Computer reprogramming to sove the issue of the steering ?
View 1 RepliesI was just changing the oil on my wifes 2008 Escape and noticed a oil leak. At first I thought it was an oil pan gasket,But its higher than that. Then I thought maybe an axle boot but it's also higher than that. It's on the passenger side about the middle of the engine right under neath the biggest pulley.
Its a cylinder shape mold coming off the engine about an inch long with a bolt on the end of it. I'm not seeing oil any higher than that and seems to be coming from there from what I can see. Is this something common with the Escapes?The truck has 55,650 miles on it and this is the first issue so far.The wifes first escape we traded for this was an 01 with 200,000.
I have a 2003 Escape Limited 4WD with approx 163K on the clock. It developed a tranny leak from the front driver's side axle. The seal is new and in good shape as I just replaced the axle and seal a few weeks ago. (I checked the shaft size and surface finish of the axle and it is in spec.)
I just removed the axle tonight and discovered that the problem seems to be the bushing just inboard of the seal in the tranny. The axle has movement up and down when inserted. (Not good!) This is allowing the fluid to leak from the seal.
Here are my questions. Is this a simple DIY fix using a slide hammer type of puller (or similar), or is it time to take it to a tranny shop. I can not seem to find a replacement part listed anywhere.
Also, with this much mileage, should I have the tranny reworked as a precaution if this repair requires dis-assembly or should I just address the leak and think about dumping it? I would prefer to keep it as my kids are now driving age and this is primarily their vehicle. (It has been a great little truck!)
Looking for info on how to remove the steering wheel on 2006 escape to get to cruise control switches and is there a self test you can do for cruise control functions like holding on button while you turning switch on as in other models ???
View 6 RepliesA couple weeks ago I had to have both lower ball joints replaced on my '01 XLS 4WD with the 6 cylinder engine. The garage's alignment machine was on the blink, so the mechanic told me to it woudl be fine to drive, and to bring it back this week when the machine was fixed.
The Escape seemed to drive fine until today, coming home from work, the Escape veered slightly to the right, and there was a brief sensation in the steering wheel as if it had been disconnected, as if something slipped. Then the steering was back, and although I was tracking straight down the highway, I noticed the steering wheel was turned to the left. It seemed to steer fine, although I had slowed way down.
We are a 2 Escape family. We have an '03 and an '05 - both 4WD and 3.0 V6. My college freshman son purchased the '05 this summer to get to and from his summer job. It has a little over 173K on the clock and it has a power steering leak, so I decided to try to tackle this one.
There is a fairly good video on YouTube on replacement of the power steering pump on an '03 - but apparently on the '05 Ford decided to relocate the pump from under the upper right engine mount to a lower location closer to the front bumper so the video is not of much use in this case.
I have searched the web and this site but cannot find any tips or instructions to replace the power steering pump on the '05. The Chilton Manual I have does not acknowledge the difference in the power steering pump location on the '05 and only provides the procedure for those Escapes where the pump is located under the upper engine mount.
I think I may be able to get better access by removing the inner fender plastic and perhaps the front bumper cover, but would really like to know the accepted procedure before I start tearing into this one.
One interesting bit of info regarding power steering fluid on these vehicles. Ford designed them to use automatic transmission fluid (Mercon) instead of power steering fluid. Initially, when I saw the leak, I thought it was a tranny line leak. Then I traced it to the front of the engine which is totally on the opposite side of the vehicle from the tranny lines.
My 2008 Escape LTD AT steering wheel has a chunk out of it, so I got a steering wheel off eBay advertised as a '2008 Escape' steering wheel (came with upper part of column also). The color is the same, and it looks exactly the same - except for one cruise control button.
I don't know if there was a difference between the MT and AT cruise controls; the owners manual doesn't say. Or if maybe this wheel is from a different year than 2008. What I would like to know is if the wire connections will be the same, if the 'Set-' button is the same as the 'Cst-' button.
I'd hate to swap them and then find out there was a different pinout for the eBay cruise buttons....
Just started getting a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel. It sounds like it's coming from underneath the vehicle in the area behind the left front wheel. It sounds like rubber against steel and drones as long as I turn the wheel. It also sounds when the suspension is activated. ie when I go over a bump. It's pretty loud. 2005 Limited ....
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