Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2010 - Check Engine Light Came On / Randomly Went Off While Idling
Apr 17, 2014
So my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
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Check engine light came on and stopped by the local autoparts store to get the error code.
Code: P2270
Bank1 Sensor2 fault
Where is this O2 sensor? I've replaced O2's on other cars I've had and just want to make sure I replace the right one.
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A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light. Pulling the codes I saw that it was a p0304 and sometimes a p0316. The first time this happened I check the spark plug cables and one was loose (cycylinder 4). Then last week my fuel pump died. since then I have gotten the two codes on a somewhat continous basis. I replaced the plugs (needed to anyway) and the problem did not go away.
The odd thing is that the check engine light does not come on at idle. IT only comes on after the motor is at a higher rev. The replaced plugs looked pretty normal, but the cylinder 4 plug had some carbon deposits. I am currently running injector cleaner in the gas. I may go ahead and replace the plug wires since the current ones are high mileage and it is not an expensive fix.
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I have a 2002 Escape XLT V6 4X4. I searched the issue, but others' symptoms don't seem to be quite the same as what I'm seeing. Over the last few weeks, the battery light has randomly come on and off 3 separate times:
- 1st time, light came on at highway speed for about 30 sec and went out. Didn't come back on. Was during daytime, running DRL's, radio (no amp or subs or anything like that, and heater blower on low speed.
- 2nd time was two weeks later or so. Happened at night with just headlights on at around 55mph (RPMs about 2K or so). Again, stayed on for about 30 sec and went out.
- 3rd time was about a week/week and a half later, yesterday morning. Just running DRL's and radio. Light came on, flickered, came on, and then stayed on for a couple of minutes (all at highway speed). I noticed that if I disengaged the overdrive and got the RPMs up, the light would go out. I ran it out of overdrive for about 2 minutes like that, and the light stayed out. Speed limit dropped to 40mph, and the light came back on (lower RPMs at that speed, didn't run it in low gears). Light stayed on for 30 sec - 1 minute, and then went out on its own and has since stayed off.
I took it to Advance yesterday to have it tested, and the results were that it is charging at 13.9V under no load, and 13.87V under a load. The battery tested good, but the machine said it needed to be charged (it hasn't been acting low...car starts just fine).
I'm driving it to work today to see what it does next, and then getting it tested again on my way home. Has anyone here ever had similar symptoms as above? Does this sound like bad diodes in the alternator?
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Well, not an escape, it is a mazda tribute. but it is the same thing as an escape. My sister just called. as she is driving down the road, if she lets off the throttle the engine will randomly die. it did it 2 times sunday, once yesterday, and once today, as she was talking to me. It will not die at traffic lights, just as you let off the throttle sometimes. today it did it at 45 mph. When it dies she just pops it in neutral, restarts it, puts it back in drive, and it is fine. No check engine light after restarting. What I should look at when she brings it over this weekend?
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I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
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Ive got an 02 2wd escape with the v6. Its been an excellent truck until here recently. The wife has had a weird problem twice now, that I have been unable to reproduce. She says the check engine light and low oil light come on and she loses power steering. Shutting it off and restarting fixes the issue.
Took a 400 mile road trip with it last weekend and never had an issue. Only thing I noticed , the readiness meters never went ready. Even after that trip, It still shows a systems not ready code.
Tonight the wife had the issue again. Shutdown and restart fixed it. Battery cables are clean and tight, several grounds were freshly cleaned a couple months ago.
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My son said the high brake light is out, the one on the roof. Bulb is fine. Before I experiment, where to go?
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Drove about 200miles to see my daughter Saturday in college. Everything was ok I stopped for gas about 10 miles out of town on the highway then picked my daughter up for lunch. After we got back in the Escape and drove a few miles the wrench light come on and I lost power so I slowed and restarted it.
Everything work fine but I looked it up in the book and it said get it to service if this happens but hey it late Saturday and all in small towns were closed! After the college football game at about 9pm we left to go home on the highway just about 3-5 miles out of town it did it again lost power slowed then I restarted it ! Wrench light or power lost never came back on for the next 200 miles home! Could it just have been bad gas doing this or does the wrench light means big problems!
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Gen3 Prius. Once it turned 100k miles I took it in for an inverter coolant change per the maintenance schedule. The dealer charged $109 for this and the car had absolutely no issues prior. Got the coolant changed on 7/23 and then drove it short distances in town for two weeks with no issues. Once I drove it on weekend longer road trip got a check engine light P0A93 "inverter A cooling system performance". Shortly there after started getting hybrid overheat alerts and pulled over to let it cool.
I checked the inverter coolant reservoir and it was still above full. After letting things cool, I turned it back on and listened to the water pump. Seemed to be running fine, heard it clearly with my ear up to a long screw driver, touching the pump. Noticed that the hose leading to the pump was vibrating but the return hose out of the inverted was not. Also no turbulence in the reservoir. My guess is that they didn't bleed air out of the system.
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Getting a fuel smell especially when 2004 3.0 escape is idling. Is there a replaceable evap filter or maybe the pcv valve?
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I have a 2006 escape 4cyl. 2 wheel drive. The instrument panel goes out randomly...
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I just bought a 2010 3.0 V6. Oil is leaking down the engine on the rear passenger side of the engine. It starts near the top. I replaced the rear valve cover gasket but it still leaks. I am concluding that it must be the timing chain cover. I can't find any info on how to diagnose and how to repair.
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Some odd engine noise i noticed on my fiance's 2010 Ford Escape 6 cyl Limited.
I noticed it a week or so ago, the sound almost reminds me of marbles hitting metal. The sound is coming from a pulley on the driver side front of the engine bay (closest to bumper). Rather than trying to explain the sound more, listen to the two youtube clips i put up. Clip 2 from outside the grill you can hear it the most.
What this could be and what I can do to resolve? I prefer to try and fix car issues on my own rather than go to a mechanic, if possible.
Clip 1 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 1 - YouTube
Clip 2 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 2 - YouTube
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2007 Ford Escape XLT V6, ~60K miles .... My wife has this rattle in her escape, has had it about a month now. The rattle happens when idling, is less noticeable when driving the car, but might just be drowned out by road noise, etc. Revving the engine in neutral doesn't seem to affect the rattle at all as far as I can tell.
I listened around the engine compartment with a stethoscope for awhile and couldn't pinpoint anything so I told her to bring it in and have it looked at. She brought it in to "Brake King", they do full service mechanic work, but i'm not sure how great they are, but they are flexible about bringing the car in and looking at it right away and my wife can't be without her car for very long since she uses it for work. They said it need the sway bar rods and bushings replaced (they did this and the noise didn't go away). I was pretty suspect about it since the rattle happens when idling, but i'm no expert so I figured they knew what they were doing.
We brought it back and the guy said that the noise was internal to the engine and asked about where we get the oil done. (I do the oil myself and always use Mobil 1, I really don't think it is an oil issue. Maybe the oil filter since we don't change that every time, but again... They did a free synthetic oil change + filter change and that didn't work.
All the while i've been doing research and I decided to go ahead and remove the drive belt to see if the noise would go away when I did ( this whole time I was suspecting something on the drive belt). So I removed it and the noise did go away for the minute or so I ran it without the belt. This pretty much confirmed to me that it was something on the drive belt. I replaced the tensioner since I read that that could be a suspect and they are "relatively" cheap and easy to do. That did NOT work. (I also broke the bolt that holds it on and had a helluva time trying to find a replacement, but that is a whole other story).
So while I had the splash guard off, I listened some more. The rattle really seems to me to be coming from the crankshaft pully area rather than from the A/C compressor area or the alternator area. If it was the C/S pulley, wouldn't it still make the rattle even with the belt off? Looking in the Haynes manual, the C/S pulley doesn't necessarily look like that easy of a replacement (especially if I'm not sure it will actually fix the problem). Anyny opinions as to whether that might be the problem, and if so if a DIYer can do the replacement?
Here is the video. When watching it live, I swear I see a bit of a wobble on the pulley compared to the other pulleys on the belt line, but in the video, you can't really see it...
Video : Mystery rattle ford escape 2007 - YouTube
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I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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Engine light flashing constantly with a vibration. It don't give any codes with the reader.
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I have a 2005 Escape with about 98,000 miles on it. For a while I have been having problems with the rear glass not registering that it is closed. It does close and latch tight, but the dash shows that there is still a door open. Now I am having issues with the PATS. The alarm goes off randomly when trying to start the car and when I stop the car and take my key out of the ignition. I am thinking these two issues are related. Is there a sensor on the rear window hatch that may be malfunctioning? And would this cause the stock alarm system to sound?
Edit: I have read another site that suggested spraying WD-40 into the latch then open and close it a few times...Does this sound legitimate?
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Just had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
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Installed new egr valve and check engine light still won't stay off...
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My Ford Escape was just serviced at 120K Miles. After about two weeks it started shuddering between 40 and 55 miles an hour. It got worse and after about 4 weeks the Check engine light came on. I took it back to my mechanic and the read out said it had a misfiring piston. What does this mean exactly? How does one fix it, prevent it from happening again?
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