Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2010 - A/C Not Working - Compressor Won't Start
Jul 24, 2016
She has a 2010 Escape 4-cyl and the A/C isn't working. It's miserable hot and she has small kids.
The compressor won't start. I put a gage set on the low pressure side and it's sky high, so it should be coming on at least. I also used a Launch scan tool on the OBD port and the HVAC control is commanding the compressor to start, so it's not that - which leaves the $300 compressor or the $9 a/c relay as the next steps. Unfortunately, I only see this car occasionally so I haven't really been able to get under it to check for voltage at the a/c compressor or see if it's a ground issue, etc.
I'd like to go after the relay next but can't find a a diagram I trust as to which one it is. I've heard mention that it's the WOT relay and also that there's an A/C Clutch relay. Any reliable schematic of the underhood fuse block and which position it's in? I took the cover off and they're numbered but there's no map. Also, what p/n is the relay? I'd like to just pop in a new one and see if it takes care of it.
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Blower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
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My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
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I am having issues with the wife's escape and the a/c compressor not kicking on(It will turn on for a split second when first fired up if the a/c is set to on but then turns right back off). I am getting a static pressure on the low side of 120 PSI, I have yet been unable to see what pressure shows when the compressor kicks on for a split second. I have confirmed the compressor relay is good and I don't see any blown fuses or anything else out of place.
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Get a set of real gauges if you want to do diagnostics. 110 psi on the low side indicates that the system isn't running at the time and that the underhood temp is around 100 F.
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I am working on a 2006 Escape that originally came in with a misfire. It had three bad coils, and they had burned out three of the coil drivers in the computer. It had a new computer put in, but will not communicate with the scanner now to program the keys. The old computer would still communicate, and the vehicle can be started and run on three cylinders with that computer, but unfortunately it needs to run a bit better than that. Is there something I am missing about getting communication with a new computer?
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My wife just picked up the 2015 Escape 3 weeks ago. This is now the 3rd time back to the dealership with it where nothig on the dash is working. No information center, no speedometer, no tach, no fuel gauge, no temp gauge, and even the entire media screen is powerless. So in turn, a lot of the temp controls and radio are gone.
The first time was on a weekend, I pulled the fuse that powers the entire dash to check it, it was fine and upon putting it back in, everything worked. Still had it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. The 2nd time was this past weekend, we decided to leave it so the service team could see what we were talking about. They again, reset the fuse (still wasn't blown), tightened a couple connections, but really couldn't find anything wrong with it.
The 3rd time was just this morning and the vehicle is currently with Ford now. Obviously warrantied, but did their dealership find what the issue was? We really love the Escape, when everything works right.
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The cruise control has not worked on my 2001 escape since i bought it a few weeks back. i checked the usual culprits and everything is good. i plugged my scanner in and got a control module code.
c1945- park switch indicates park with vehicle moving.
I did do some live data testing and it does infact show park when in gear. the display on the dash shows the proper position.
I am almost certain this is the issue with my cruise. Where this sensor is? Doing a parts lookup isn't showing much.
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I am having an issue with my 2008 Ford Escape XLT. It seems that my A/C and Heater fan isnt working properly. Basically, air only comes out when i put the fan speed to 4. With 1-3, no air comes out. If the A/C or Heat is on, I can feel cold air or heat coming out but the actual fan isn't running. It only runs when it is set to 4. What the problem could be?
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I just bought a 2010 Escape XLT 4 cyl. The mpg is showing to be 16.7, which is really low compared to what it's supposed to be. I bought it off of a car lot and it had been discounted so I'm guessing it was sitting there for a while before it was sold. Do you think that would cause the mpg to be low? I've driven it on the highway and around town. I've had it for 2 days, but it's freaking me out thinking that there is something wrong with it.
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My daughters 2010 Escape (V6 - 3.0L motor) had the check engine light come on back in February, while she was away at school. Well, now she is home and I want to fix it. I have tried all the things I can think of and have found on the web, but no success. I pulled the whole Evap canister assembly down and tested the Evap vent solenoid by itself, and it works (opens and closes). Physically can see if cycle when I apply 12v to it. When I reinstalled it I cleaned up the o-rings and lightly greased them up to seal better in case they were leaking by. Before pulling the whole unit down, I checked and with the key on, there is 12v on the plug feeding this solenoid, but I physically wanted to see it move and it looks good.
Next, I pulled the hose feeding the top of the purge valve, located under the hood, to see if I had vacuum leaking when the car was running. I did not, so if I understand the operation correctly, I am good there as well. What else could be causing the car to dump this code??
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I thought my tranny shift points had gone a little nutty. This afternoon, it suddenly seemed as if it were starting off in 2nd gear...then the OD light started flashing. Now, when you put it in 1st gear manually, or reverse, it's like it's in park. Can't push the truck or anything...put it in drive or 2nd, and it starts off slowly. Once it picks up speed, all seems well. Definitely not starting off in 1st or going into reverse at all. Have y'all seen this problem before?
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The passenger door on my 2002 Escape is locked and the power lock is not working on that door. The door is closed, how to get it open.
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2002 Escape. The over drive deselect button stopped working on my wife's escape. Is their a fuse other than the box under the hood? Transmission was rebuilt not too long aga and has been running fine till the other day.
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My son said the high brake light is out, the one on the roof. Bulb is fine. Before I experiment, where to go?
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Drove about 200miles to see my daughter Saturday in college. Everything was ok I stopped for gas about 10 miles out of town on the highway then picked my daughter up for lunch. After we got back in the Escape and drove a few miles the wrench light come on and I lost power so I slowed and restarted it.
Everything work fine but I looked it up in the book and it said get it to service if this happens but hey it late Saturday and all in small towns were closed! After the college football game at about 9pm we left to go home on the highway just about 3-5 miles out of town it did it again lost power slowed then I restarted it ! Wrench light or power lost never came back on for the next 200 miles home! Could it just have been bad gas doing this or does the wrench light means big problems!
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Couple weeks ago, was in a spot that needed 4wd. Turned the switch, the 4x4 dash light came on, but rear wheels didn't do anything. Lucky that we were able to get out with ft wheels only. Has 3.0, xlt version.
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Doing trans fluid change on the 2009 -2012? Is it the same as myCD4E drain 4 refill? I know its a different fluid probably buy from Ford.
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I am having a problem starting my Escape. It ran fine when i parked it. Now it turns over but wont start.
It turns, almost catches, then turns slower. White smoke comes out of the exhaust, which means it is getting fuel i think. When I crank it all the dash warning lights go off. I tried the spare key. I tried pushing the gas pedal. No codes on the scanner. I switched the fuel relay (r3) with the fan relay (r4). I tilted the column a few times. Coils and wiring do not show any damage or wear. I opened the air filter with no change.
The only change i notice is that when turning the key has some resistance. It does not feel like it used to turn. This year I had to install a new battery and alternator. At 90k miles i gave it a tune up (plugs, boots and coils). It has 116k on it now.
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I have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
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My 2010 2.5L FWD Escape has oil on the steering boot and has run down on crossmember (?) It is equipped with Electric Power Steering. This appears to be coming from the rack and pinion but does it have fluid in it? How can you add if it does. I have 96,000 miles on the vehicle and except for a drivers door actuator and scratched drivers glass, this is only problem.
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