Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2008 - Flat Spots On Tire
Oct 28, 2013
So I have a 2008 escape 4wd.... I am getting a few flat spots on the inside passenger rear tire... So I figured it was the shocks so I unbolted both and cycled them and they both felt the same... There was dampening you can feel the oil going through the valves or whatever... I have felt completely bad shocks before and it was just a smooth motion when cycling the shocks... Can it still feel like there good but there not? The thing has 85k on it and I'm not sure if they have ever been replaced before..
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With winter on its way I have installed winter tires and steel rims w/o pressure sensors on my 08 Escape. Is there a way to disable the dash warning light for low tire air pressure?
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I just put on new winter tires and rims on my 2012 Escape and after driving about 6 miles, the low tire pressure light came on. Is there is a procedure to learn the vehicle to the new tires?
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The facts: 2009 4x4 V6 Escape with Valve stem mounted TPMS
I am getting a tire pressure sensor malfunction fault. The warning light is on and the error message is displayed on the little screen in the gauge cluster.
What I have tried: First I should say I have replace to defective sensor twice now...
1) I put the escape in tpms train mode by hitting the hazard switch off/on about 6 times.
2) I used the train tool to train all the tires but there is one that is giving me trouble and will not train.
3) I tried deflating the problem tire and inflating it to the specified pressure given on the be pillar of the escape (30 psig)... after inflating it I tried to retain it with no luck.
4) I tried rotating the tires and as I mentioned earlier I have replaces the problem sensor twice. Still can't can't get the problem tire to train.
My thoughts:
1) I don't think this is a module error because I can train the other tires and since I rotated them I know their position is not a factor.
2) its possible that I have got two defective tpms sensors but I think that is unlikely.
3) I have read of another procedure to put the escape in tpms train mode that requires you to turn the ignition on/off, step on the break pedal, tap your head and rub your belly, etc... but I have not tried this method. Is there a difference from this train mode verse hitting the hazard switch on/off about 6 times?
4) Does the train tool only work on previously trained sensors? do I need to register the new TPMS sensor with the TPMS module? I have an OBDII tool that connects to scanXL software on my laptop which included the ford proprietary protocol. I looked for a way to program a tpms sensor (similar to how I did it with my toyota) but couldn't find the option.
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I realize that is vague. I realize it could be anything from a wheel bearing to a ball joint, tie rod, control arm/control arm bushing, etc.
Are there any very common front-end steering or suspension issues on 2012 escapes? When tires are inflated to 32-34psi, the car tracks straight, gets great mileage --but almost sounds/feels like it's got a CV or wheel bearing issue on the front right. Every time I hit the brakes while backing out of the driveway I can hear a slight bump or pop. When the car is parked (flat, tires straight) there is slight play left-to-right in the steering wheel.
I'm a German car guy. Have never touched this car. (Wife's car) Right tire is wearing bad on inside. Looking for some direction so I can assess. Car has 88k miles. This will be a DIY fix. Don't have any manuals or anything so just looking for a heads up where to start. Also is Haynes the best way to go? Is there a Bentley? Anything online/CD/DVD?
Play in steering wheel makes me think tie rod (fine because easy/cheap) but such excessive wear on the inside right front makes me think wheel bearing. Could it be both? This is AWD. Is this (like a Subaru) a CV joint where the front spindle passes through a strut base that everything attaches to --so there's an inner and outer wheel bearing?
Does anything up front require a press or can it all be done without a press?
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Over the weekend my 2008 Escape Hybrid manifest 2 problems the same day.
1. The remote keyless entry button stopped working (thought it was dead battery in key)
2. Got a error message 'Tire Pressure Sensor Fault'
So after suffering with having to actually unlock my car with a key (heehee/see sarcastic grin) and getting irritated by the error message. I asked the internet about my symptoms. Got the standard answers of "bad tire pressure sensor/reprogram" and change the battery in the key. But ONE and only one person (namely Enviroguy ) said what I thought was going on - that these two problems were related. (afterall it is 2 wireless devices in the car.)
Changing the key fob battery had no effect & Both keys were unresponsive. Seeing what Enviroguy said about certain chargers or wireless devices can cause interference in the tire sensor and keyless systems. .... Then I remember that I had been using a new no-name charger for my cell phone when this problem started.
I unplugged that charger.....(it was a cheap generic power point to USB adapter). The Keyless system is working... ! The tire pressure error has vanished.... !
I did not go to the car appointment.... Now let's hope this was in fact the problem! May my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid "Be Healed!"
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I had the car in to replace the inner CV boot and repair a leaking trans flex seal. About 30 minutes after I left the shop, I lost all acceleration and the car basically crawls around. Halfway to work and almost late for meetings, I was afraid it was a failing fuel pump so I rigged both fuel pump relays closed and it seemed to get better... I pulled the relays while at work, re-inserted at the end of the day and headed home. About halfway home the acceleration issues came back (with the rigged relays), and I barely made it to my driveway. Pulled codes, and see these:
16732 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G163)
P0348 - 001 - Short to Plus - MIL ON
18711 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
16408 - Bank 2: Camshaft B (Exhaust)
P0024 - 008 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced) - MIL ON
I checked for vacuum leaks and can't seem to find anything tell-tale. I have seen the Camshaft Position Sensor before, but the car ran fine. Probably time to get around to replacing it, but what about the Leak in Air Intake System? Car really hates to idle. Also, MIL is pretty much always on for me due to an unhappy trans that disables ESP.
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I have a 2001 F350 Dually 7.3 w/260K miles. Hard starting, it has to be plugged in all the time. Occasionally/most of the time, blows white smoke at 50 to 60 mph or at high rpm. Replaced TPS and now runs totally different on starting, still hard to start but better throttle response on starting. Once started, I have to pedal it to keep it running, which seems to have little response as it would as if it was a direct throttle linkage attached to a carburetor...follow me? After a while, it will idle by itself. However, it still has flat spots when out of idle and at high rpm. Has gotten to the point that I can't trust to drive it.
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I have a 2003 MCV36R Camry SPortivo, Australian spec. Have owned it for 12 months. Have had power issues.
Replaced:
plugs
fuel filter
O2 sensors (engine)
MAF sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Have checker EGR valve - all looks good
Have coded OBD II, no codes coming up
Current issues are:
Flat spots from 1000rpm to approx 3000 rpm (esp on gear change from 1st to second)
Once flat spot stop, it powers up enough to throw you back in your seat.
Also, rough running when sitting on constant speed, esp bad between 65-85 Km/h.
Have recently done a 800km trip. half way through, isolated the EGR valve. Running probs have improved greatly, but still lacks power.
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Have a 2013 Passat Tdi. It seems that sometimes when i accelerate the car doesn't move it has a flat spot as if the transmission is trying to catch a gear. I know this might sound minor to some folks. However on several occasions I've pulled out into oncoming traffic not expecting it to have a flat spot in the car not moving at all. What's up with this?
On the highway no problem and normal acceleration no problem but if you're going from a stop or pulling away from a intersection seems that happen more so than I would like.
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I recently purchased a 2008 ford escape, v6, 2wd. When I bought it, I noticed the ABS light was on, and I got an appointment scheduled to get it fixed, but they couldn't get it looked at for 2 weeks out. Needing a vehicle to drive to and from work, I agreed to schedule the appointment, as I test drove it with the light on with no issues.
Well, after putting about 200 miles on it over the weekend, there are now noticeable issues. First off, the parking brake light decided to come on intermittently, and now it comes on and off spiradicly. Secondly, when I drive the car now, I can hear a clunking noise, followed by the traction control light blinking (It was on constant before), and loss of power. I ended up pinpointing that to being the brakes engaging while the car was driving (I noticed when I stopped, the rotors were really hot. I threw a tiny bit of snow on them and they smoked really bad.
I removed the tires in the front, and checked the tone rings, they both appear to have been replaced recently as they are still shiny as if they were brand new. I also took the ABS sensors out, and wiped them down, they also appear to be new (Although the bolts that hold them on clearly aren't new). I don't have access to a high-level scan tool to get it looked at, and I refuse to drive it anymore to take it to a shop just to have it looked at, what else could be causing the issues? It's highly possible that one of the ABS sensors is bad, but how do I go about checking it without just replacing it? Can I use a voltmeter or something to check it to see if it's getting the correct voltage?
I am not sure how the abs system works, but I know that the traction control light is on because the abs light is on, as they both have the same systems they use, but would that also cause the parking brake light to come on, too ? It originally wasn't on, but just started doing it recently. I checked the fluid level, and it's more than within range. This is my daily driver, and obviously I can't go two weeks without a vehicle, and that's the soonest I can get it into a shop...
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OK so this issue first started in July on way back from Florida the brakes started going to the floor. You did have normal braking power, but you had to about stand on them. Took it to mechanic who cleaned and adjusted brakes, after that they seemed to work fine. Fast forward to a month later, I was going over some train tracks with a somewhat heavy load, I braked when going over them, right after that it seemed the brakes went about half way before braking. I took it back to same mechanic who said it's now either the Master Cylinder, or ABS module. I have found so many conflicting posts on this I'm not sure which way to go. I'd really hate to spend $400 on MC, and then it turns out to be ABS. There is also a swooshing noise when you depress brake.
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My wife drives a 2008 V6, where is the PCV Valve? Pics ????
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My 08 escape (3.0) wouldn't go over 45-50mph Sunday on my way home. The next morning I made it about 2 blocks and the battery light came on and it died. I am replacing the battery tomorrow because it tested bad but believe there is also an exhaust problem. Last week it began making a noise I could hear inside the car only when accelerating. Almost sounded like a small,air plane. The car will start and run now but cuts out and sometimes will Rev up when I press accelerator and sometimes won't. The exhaust pipe gets hot really fast and it and the motor both vibrate we the car is started (more than normal) any clue on where to start??
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Wife is operating a 08 Escape with about 31K miles on her. She loves the vehicle but since we bought it with 24K miles on it it has had a rattle under it. I assumed that it was the heat shield and i would get around to securing it but haven't yet. Here's the question. I noticed recently that about mid way back under the pass side there is a black spot developing on the concrete where she parks every day. The vehicle does not sit and idle there. Its started and is moving in about 20 every time. I have not got under there yet but was looking for possible answers as to what and where to look? Flex pipe? Bad seal on exhaust? If this is the case should a 31K mile vehicle have this issue? The vehicle is louder than a 2.3L should be but from reading that seems normal. If it is the flex is this something that a novice wrench can do?
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My ford escape tailgate switch stopped working, the glass worked fine and opened with the switch. I ruled out the fuse as both I believe work off the same fuse. I removed the back panel to access the mechanism and found that, I could get the tailgate to work if I disconnected the wire from the glass tailgate switch and as the wire connector (shown In picture) was reinserted it would energize the tailgate switch and I am able to open the tailgate. What the actual problem is. I initially thought that it could be the tailgate switch itself but having seen what is happening I really am at a loss to what is the problem....
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape XLS (4 cylinder) that currently is having an issue with the AC system. It blows the air at the correct temp but it only comes out of the primary vents. If i select defroster or floor vents, it doesn't switch over to those. What specifically should I be looking at to fix it.
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Where can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
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I have a 2008 xlt with a 3.0. In the little over 2 years I've had it, most notably in the past year, I have replaced the front driver side ABS sensor 8 times. This is getting extremely cost, and outrageous. Every month or so, the ABS light comes on and the ABS starts locking up when I am driving it. Every time it does it, I have to take it back to the shop for diagnostics, at a rate of nearly 300 a pop. As you can see, the bill for this one damn sensor has become outrageous.
Every time, the same fault code comes up. Drivers front ABS sensor. Putting on a new sensor fixes it, every time, but only temporarily. I have had the tone ring replaced just to make sure that wasn't it, and every single time it's always been the sensor itself.
I have tried various brands, including a couple of OEM a pop to make sure it wasn't just lower quality parts, and I have the exact same result every time. I have noticed it seems to do it most notably during extremely wet conditions, or heavy snow, although a couple of the times it started acting up in the heat of summer. I have even attempted cleaning the abs sensor to make sure it wasn't just dirty, to no avail.
As I mentioned, only replacing the sensor makes the issue go away, and when I am driving the abs system engages at random times if I leave the light on for too long without fixing the abs light.
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Trouble starting our 2008 escape after she has been sitting for atleast 4-5 hours (or more) We can get it going usually but we have to attempt several times before it 'catches'. After running and turning off, it starts no problem. Have replaced mas and didn't work. No 'check engine soon light' so just trying to narrow down the problem. Have replaced the fuel filter and all the spark plugs. Love my escape but not when it doesn't start!!
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My 2008 Ford Escape is stuck at 5% Oil Life I have tried the reset procedure But when I press the 3 buttons Setup Info or Reset nothing changes It will not change screens When I start my car I see the KM (I'm from Canada) then within a couple of minutes it shows %5 Oil Life and no matter what I do it wont change or scroll to a different screen. When the door is ajar or tail gate open it shows but then will flash back to the 5% Oil Life
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