Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2008 - Traction Control Light Came On
Jul 15, 2014
I just bought a 2008 Mercury Mariner about a month ago. A couple of times the Traction Control light came on from when I started it, until I turned it off (5-30 minutes.) Then it didn't come on for days. What the problem could be??
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I recently purchased a 2008 ford escape, v6, 2wd. When I bought it, I noticed the ABS light was on, and I got an appointment scheduled to get it fixed, but they couldn't get it looked at for 2 weeks out. Needing a vehicle to drive to and from work, I agreed to schedule the appointment, as I test drove it with the light on with no issues.
Well, after putting about 200 miles on it over the weekend, there are now noticeable issues. First off, the parking brake light decided to come on intermittently, and now it comes on and off spiradicly. Secondly, when I drive the car now, I can hear a clunking noise, followed by the traction control light blinking (It was on constant before), and loss of power. I ended up pinpointing that to being the brakes engaging while the car was driving (I noticed when I stopped, the rotors were really hot. I threw a tiny bit of snow on them and they smoked really bad.
I removed the tires in the front, and checked the tone rings, they both appear to have been replaced recently as they are still shiny as if they were brand new. I also took the ABS sensors out, and wiped them down, they also appear to be new (Although the bolts that hold them on clearly aren't new). I don't have access to a high-level scan tool to get it looked at, and I refuse to drive it anymore to take it to a shop just to have it looked at, what else could be causing the issues? It's highly possible that one of the ABS sensors is bad, but how do I go about checking it without just replacing it? Can I use a voltmeter or something to check it to see if it's getting the correct voltage?
I am not sure how the abs system works, but I know that the traction control light is on because the abs light is on, as they both have the same systems they use, but would that also cause the parking brake light to come on, too ? It originally wasn't on, but just started doing it recently. I checked the fluid level, and it's more than within range. This is my daily driver, and obviously I can't go two weeks without a vehicle, and that's the soonest I can get it into a shop...
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So a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?
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2008 Escape V6
Got the oil changed at Walmart and they told us there was oil in the air filter and we should replace the pcv valve. Before we changed it the oil pressure light had started coming on when the car is stopped, either in gear or park. Once the gas is hit it goes off, even at something like 1 mph. Well I changed the pcv valve but the oil pressure light is still doing the same thing. What should be my next step?
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With winter on its way I have installed winter tires and steel rims w/o pressure sensors on my 08 Escape. Is there a way to disable the dash warning light for low tire air pressure?
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Mustang GT 2008 ... My ABS, Brake light and Traction control light stays on. It will go of sometimes when it is raining outside. Sometimes it looks like Christmas lights going on and off. I have taken it to the Ford shop but they can't figure it out.
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On my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
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Why my traction control light stays on? just installed sikky headers. The light will not turn off no matter how long i hold the traction button. Could it be a sensor? No VSC or CEL only traction control light...
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well Im working on mother in laws 2002 escape...replacing wheel bearing and ball joints...I went with replacing control arm with ball joint already pressed in , I did try to press out old ball joint first but it wasn't budging...so I went on to the control and the back bolt came out fine...except threads at top of bolt look worn bad...anyways moved on to front and it was tight and moving along good...sprayed down with pb blast moved it back in sprayed again and waited a bit....as I went to bring it back out it snapped....I got the broken bolt out...it broke right at where the threads start...anyways Im having problem with gettting the control arm out while the rest of that bolt is still in there.
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I recently got an Escape and I am having a issue with the cruise control. That being, it doesn't work. The control module under the hood is all hooked up, the linkage the the throttle body and all. No broken cables.
The brake lights work as intended, and only when the brake is applied. On the inside, the dash-light cruise indicator works fine.
I ran the diagnostic by holding the off button and turning the key on. The cruise light flashes and I begin the sequence. I noticed I was pushing the brake out of habit while running the first few tests. They all returned 2 flashes upon completion of the diagnostic. All other buttons were registered.
Now the strange part, when I took my foot off the brake and did the same test, the final result is three flashes of the cruise light. I understand these flashes represent a fault, and I am having a hard time as I cannot find one.
What do these results mean? I'm thinking the brake being applied gives a fault surrounding the fact that cruise is disabled when the brake is applied.
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The cruise control has not worked on my 2001 escape since i bought it a few weeks back. i checked the usual culprits and everything is good. i plugged my scanner in and got a control module code.
c1945- park switch indicates park with vehicle moving.
I did do some live data testing and it does infact show park when in gear. the display on the dash shows the proper position.
I am almost certain this is the issue with my cruise. Where this sensor is? Doing a parts lookup isn't showing much.
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After about 6 months I finally got the alternator replaced in the Tribute. I totally forgot about the CEL that was on for EGR Circuit. I've found a couple of pages ( OBD-II Trouble Code: P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction ) that explain how to diagnose the issue but I was wondering if any other route for something that may be more common than another thing.
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I recently purchased the 2006 Mazda Tribute and the previous owner has confirmed the cruise was not working. What I have looked at:
Checked fuses
checked cable and connections
check connections at unit
What I have is the cruise will power on (light on dash comes on) but it does not appear to engage. I tried to use the diagnostics built into the car, where you hold the off button and turn the key on. I get a flash for off, and on, but do not get a flash when I push the resume button.
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OK so this issue first started in July on way back from Florida the brakes started going to the floor. You did have normal braking power, but you had to about stand on them. Took it to mechanic who cleaned and adjusted brakes, after that they seemed to work fine. Fast forward to a month later, I was going over some train tracks with a somewhat heavy load, I braked when going over them, right after that it seemed the brakes went about half way before braking. I took it back to same mechanic who said it's now either the Master Cylinder, or ABS module. I have found so many conflicting posts on this I'm not sure which way to go. I'd really hate to spend $400 on MC, and then it turns out to be ABS. There is also a swooshing noise when you depress brake.
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My wife drives a 2008 V6, where is the PCV Valve? Pics ????
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My 08 escape (3.0) wouldn't go over 45-50mph Sunday on my way home. The next morning I made it about 2 blocks and the battery light came on and it died. I am replacing the battery tomorrow because it tested bad but believe there is also an exhaust problem. Last week it began making a noise I could hear inside the car only when accelerating. Almost sounded like a small,air plane. The car will start and run now but cuts out and sometimes will Rev up when I press accelerator and sometimes won't. The exhaust pipe gets hot really fast and it and the motor both vibrate we the car is started (more than normal) any clue on where to start??
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Wife is operating a 08 Escape with about 31K miles on her. She loves the vehicle but since we bought it with 24K miles on it it has had a rattle under it. I assumed that it was the heat shield and i would get around to securing it but haven't yet. Here's the question. I noticed recently that about mid way back under the pass side there is a black spot developing on the concrete where she parks every day. The vehicle does not sit and idle there. Its started and is moving in about 20 every time. I have not got under there yet but was looking for possible answers as to what and where to look? Flex pipe? Bad seal on exhaust? If this is the case should a 31K mile vehicle have this issue? The vehicle is louder than a 2.3L should be but from reading that seems normal. If it is the flex is this something that a novice wrench can do?
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My ford escape tailgate switch stopped working, the glass worked fine and opened with the switch. I ruled out the fuse as both I believe work off the same fuse. I removed the back panel to access the mechanism and found that, I could get the tailgate to work if I disconnected the wire from the glass tailgate switch and as the wire connector (shown In picture) was reinserted it would energize the tailgate switch and I am able to open the tailgate. What the actual problem is. I initially thought that it could be the tailgate switch itself but having seen what is happening I really am at a loss to what is the problem....
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So I have a 2008 escape 4wd.... I am getting a few flat spots on the inside passenger rear tire... So I figured it was the shocks so I unbolted both and cycled them and they both felt the same... There was dampening you can feel the oil going through the valves or whatever... I have felt completely bad shocks before and it was just a smooth motion when cycling the shocks... Can it still feel like there good but there not? The thing has 85k on it and I'm not sure if they have ever been replaced before..
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape XLS (4 cylinder) that currently is having an issue with the AC system. It blows the air at the correct temp but it only comes out of the primary vents. If i select defroster or floor vents, it doesn't switch over to those. What specifically should I be looking at to fix it.
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Where can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
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