Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2008 - Steering Wheel Cruise Buttons
Jun 23, 2017
My 2008 Escape LTD AT steering wheel has a chunk out of it, so I got a steering wheel off eBay advertised as a '2008 Escape' steering wheel (came with upper part of column also). The color is the same, and it looks exactly the same - except for one cruise control button.
I don't know if there was a difference between the MT and AT cruise controls; the owners manual doesn't say. Or if maybe this wheel is from a different year than 2008. What I would like to know is if the wire connections will be the same, if the 'Set-' button is the same as the 'Cst-' button.
I'd hate to swap them and then find out there was a different pinout for the eBay cruise buttons....
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My wife's having some car trouble. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth there's a cracking sound and I can feel it into the wheel. And now the steering's gotten really stiff.
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During the tedious removal of the airbag from my mk4 multifunction steering wheel, I managed to rip the cruise control buttons wires out of their harness. I am honestly bewildered by the descriptions I've found online, and just want a photo of which colored wires should go in which holes XD.
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Looking for info on how to remove the steering wheel on 2006 escape to get to cruise control switches and is there a self test you can do for cruise control functions like holding on button while you turning switch on as in other models ???
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Just started getting a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel. It sounds like it's coming from underneath the vehicle in the area behind the left front wheel. It sounds like rubber against steel and drones as long as I turn the wheel. It also sounds when the suspension is activated. ie when I go over a bump. It's pretty loud. 2005 Limited ....
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I have been having this problem with Gf's car for a few months it is a 06 3.0 escape with 141K on the clock the car seems to run ok except at red lights and when in drive it seems to idle like its just about 100 rpms low when I give it a little gas just a touch it smoothes out. if I put it in neutral the car smooth's out but in drive when you come to a stop light or stop sign you can feel the rough or low idle in the steering wheel. She is nagging me and it has been very cold here in Pa and I'm trying to wrap my head around if it is a cold thing or just a coincidence. I'm fairly good at wrenching and I just need some things to look for as when you start the car up cold it idles fast like 12 to 1300 rpms and then drops to about 900 and in drive it seems like maybe it's about 600 to 700 rpms. but where to start to look Is it a sensor, vacuum leak ?
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Recently picked up a 2007 Escape with 108,000 miles. The vehicle is in great condition with a full service history. Recently I've noticed a bit of shimmy in the steering wheel and noise from the front drivers side wheel accompanying the shimmy.
At speeds of 50mph+ the shimmy will start. When going straight there is not much of an issue but when a gradual right hand turn on the highway the shimmy starts. Back to straight and it goes away. Not really noticeable on left hand curves.
Steering issue?
Tie Rods?
Bearings?
I'm going to dig into it to get it fixed.
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Have an 03 Escape / 3.0 and the steering catches when turning left. Steering wheel jerks. Replaced the pump about 2 mo. ago and seemed to work, but now it is back. Is there something else I should look at?
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I have an 08 escape v-6 fwd. i recently started hearing a clicking noise in the steering column. Seems to be getting worse and more noticeable. Front end seems normal. This clicking seems to be coming from right under the steering column cover near the turn signal area.
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I was out driving tonight and our 03 escape started making a thumping sound like you hear when you have a flat. I turned the corner and noticed that the steering wheel is now at a 30 degree angle as I'm going straight and when I hit the brakes the steering wheel straightens out but the car doesn't change direction. It's dark so I can only see so much but the tie rods are good and tight from what I can tell same with ball joints. They just did that subframe recall a month or so ago. My concern is steering box but other than these symptoms it seems to be working fine.
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I recently got an Escape and I am having a issue with the cruise control. That being, it doesn't work. The control module under the hood is all hooked up, the linkage the the throttle body and all. No broken cables.
The brake lights work as intended, and only when the brake is applied. On the inside, the dash-light cruise indicator works fine.
I ran the diagnostic by holding the off button and turning the key on. The cruise light flashes and I begin the sequence. I noticed I was pushing the brake out of habit while running the first few tests. They all returned 2 flashes upon completion of the diagnostic. All other buttons were registered.
Now the strange part, when I took my foot off the brake and did the same test, the final result is three flashes of the cruise light. I understand these flashes represent a fault, and I am having a hard time as I cannot find one.
What do these results mean? I'm thinking the brake being applied gives a fault surrounding the fact that cruise is disabled when the brake is applied.
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The cruise control has not worked on my 2001 escape since i bought it a few weeks back. i checked the usual culprits and everything is good. i plugged my scanner in and got a control module code.
c1945- park switch indicates park with vehicle moving.
I did do some live data testing and it does infact show park when in gear. the display on the dash shows the proper position.
I am almost certain this is the issue with my cruise. Where this sensor is? Doing a parts lookup isn't showing much.
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I recently purchased the 2006 Mazda Tribute and the previous owner has confirmed the cruise was not working. What I have looked at:
Checked fuses
checked cable and connections
check connections at unit
What I have is the cruise will power on (light on dash comes on) but it does not appear to engage. I tried to use the diagnostics built into the car, where you hold the off button and turn the key on. I get a flash for off, and on, but do not get a flash when I push the resume button.
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The steering wheel controls, horn and cruise control recently died in our '08 wagon. The fact that they went out suddenly and simultaneously suggests that they might be tied to a fuse. I looked around the intarwebs via google and saw some references to a problem with HomeLink wiring in the sunvisor blowing "fuse 5" on older models, but I'm unsure if something like this is even valid for the B6.
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Steering column recall ? The ford sites don't have much info yet. What is involved steering column replacement ? Computer reprogramming to sove the issue of the steering ?
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2011 F-150 Classic Sync w/ satellite factory radio. A few hundred miles over warranty the radio controller side of the steering wheel buttons has randomized, where the buttons each do a different function, but none of them turn the volume down. Volume Up changes the source, volume down = up, etc. The cruise control side seems to still work.
I have disconnected the battery cable and also done a software reset on SYNC. Read on on other forums to disconnect the air bag and open the steering wheel to spray electrical cleaner in there, or for other radio problems to pull fuse #2. Is this a ghost in the machine type issue?
Also, I have had the truck in for service one time already for the driver door speaker fading out when turning right at specific volume levels. They put in a new speaker which resolved it until the warranty ran out and now it happens again. Could both of these be indicative of a bad radio, or deeper wiring problems?
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So I was talking to a guy today with a 2002 Limited diesel. I noticed that his truck didn't have radio buttons on the steering wheel. I thought all 2002 Limited had radio buttons on the steering wheel. The inside of his truck also had simulated wood grain in places that my truck (also 2002 Limited diesel) didn't have.
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A couple weeks ago I had to have both lower ball joints replaced on my '01 XLS 4WD with the 6 cylinder engine. The garage's alignment machine was on the blink, so the mechanic told me to it woudl be fine to drive, and to bring it back this week when the machine was fixed.
The Escape seemed to drive fine until today, coming home from work, the Escape veered slightly to the right, and there was a brief sensation in the steering wheel as if it had been disconnected, as if something slipped. Then the steering was back, and although I was tracking straight down the highway, I noticed the steering wheel was turned to the left. It seemed to steer fine, although I had slowed way down.
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I took my truck to the dealer because my steering wheel buttons quit working as far as going forward or back between songs via bluetooth. The tech said the buttons don't work via bluetooth from the factory and I told him he was wrong. They worked in a 2007 Edge, 2008 F150, 2009 Fusion, 2009 F250, and until the day before, my 2012 F150. He said "You must be mistaken". I took it home, pulled Fuse 2 (Sync) waited a couple of minutes (Nice place for the fuse box, Ford) put the fuse back, let Sync load, repaired, etc, and my steering buttons now work again. I only use bluetooth with both my S3 and Note 2, so if your buttons stop working, do you always have to pull the fuse, or is there an easier way to fix this? That's the fix I found.
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2005 Escape 3.0 with 160k miles. Slight miss under cruise, goes away under slight throttle. No service history known about vehicle. Best to replace spark plugs and coils with Motorcraft parts? And the intake gaskets too? Suggestions for correct plugs?
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I've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
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