Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2008 - Sputters And Dies
Apr 29, 2015
My 08 escape (3.0) wouldn't go over 45-50mph Sunday on my way home. The next morning I made it about 2 blocks and the battery light came on and it died. I am replacing the battery tomorrow because it tested bad but believe there is also an exhaust problem. Last week it began making a noise I could hear inside the car only when accelerating. Almost sounded like a small,air plane. The car will start and run now but cuts out and sometimes will Rev up when I press accelerator and sometimes won't. The exhaust pipe gets hot really fast and it and the motor both vibrate we the car is started (more than normal) any clue on where to start??
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2001 escape 3.0 engine is giving me a headache. It starts and will idle no problem but as soon as I step on the gas the engine sputters and coughs but it does race up. I put in new intake seals, new sparks plugs and a tps and cleaned the maf sensor. It shows no codes so what am I missing? Can it be a fuel system problem ?? what should I be looking for??
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I have had a 2005 f150 v6 5 speed for a little over two years. Got about 153k on it. Last night was sitting in a parking lot idling about 20-25 minutes, went to leave and she started sputtering hard, lost all power and died. Started back up, idled fine, as soon as i put it in gear same thing then the check engine light came on.
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I have a 2003 ford escape V6 and i have notice when i start it' after setting overnight i notice some blue smoke for a little while then it's stop What could be causing this.
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I just picked up a 2004 ford escape and information is difficult for me to obtain. Person I purchased from had all new suspension installed. Says it needs new transmission.
My indications: Vehicle starts right up dies/stalls with anything above throttle. Major lack of power. Was able to put in Reverse and it moved a bit and same as drive. Smoke from rear of engine. Seems like coolant dumping into exhaust. shake on exhaust you can hear slosh slosh in exhaust.
No engine trouble codes no lights on dash.
Am I looking at a headgasket? This has the 3.0 duratec v6 with the water pump belt driven by the cam on the driver side. Open up the oil cap there is the timing chain. serpentine belt is on passenger side of engine. There is no coolant/water in the engine oil but the coolant is disappearing FAST. no coolant on spark plugs that indicate its in the cylendars.
Was going to check compression but the compression tester I have only threads up to 14mm. to small for the hole. I can probably rent a tester with proper sizes if needed. Fuel pressure at the rail primes to 60 psi and stays there. Stays at 60 psi while running as well.
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I recently purchased a 2008 ford escape, v6, 2wd. When I bought it, I noticed the ABS light was on, and I got an appointment scheduled to get it fixed, but they couldn't get it looked at for 2 weeks out. Needing a vehicle to drive to and from work, I agreed to schedule the appointment, as I test drove it with the light on with no issues.
Well, after putting about 200 miles on it over the weekend, there are now noticeable issues. First off, the parking brake light decided to come on intermittently, and now it comes on and off spiradicly. Secondly, when I drive the car now, I can hear a clunking noise, followed by the traction control light blinking (It was on constant before), and loss of power. I ended up pinpointing that to being the brakes engaging while the car was driving (I noticed when I stopped, the rotors were really hot. I threw a tiny bit of snow on them and they smoked really bad.
I removed the tires in the front, and checked the tone rings, they both appear to have been replaced recently as they are still shiny as if they were brand new. I also took the ABS sensors out, and wiped them down, they also appear to be new (Although the bolts that hold them on clearly aren't new). I don't have access to a high-level scan tool to get it looked at, and I refuse to drive it anymore to take it to a shop just to have it looked at, what else could be causing the issues? It's highly possible that one of the ABS sensors is bad, but how do I go about checking it without just replacing it? Can I use a voltmeter or something to check it to see if it's getting the correct voltage?
I am not sure how the abs system works, but I know that the traction control light is on because the abs light is on, as they both have the same systems they use, but would that also cause the parking brake light to come on, too ? It originally wasn't on, but just started doing it recently. I checked the fluid level, and it's more than within range. This is my daily driver, and obviously I can't go two weeks without a vehicle, and that's the soonest I can get it into a shop...
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OK so this issue first started in July on way back from Florida the brakes started going to the floor. You did have normal braking power, but you had to about stand on them. Took it to mechanic who cleaned and adjusted brakes, after that they seemed to work fine. Fast forward to a month later, I was going over some train tracks with a somewhat heavy load, I braked when going over them, right after that it seemed the brakes went about half way before braking. I took it back to same mechanic who said it's now either the Master Cylinder, or ABS module. I have found so many conflicting posts on this I'm not sure which way to go. I'd really hate to spend $400 on MC, and then it turns out to be ABS. There is also a swooshing noise when you depress brake.
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My wife drives a 2008 V6, where is the PCV Valve? Pics ????
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Wife is operating a 08 Escape with about 31K miles on her. She loves the vehicle but since we bought it with 24K miles on it it has had a rattle under it. I assumed that it was the heat shield and i would get around to securing it but haven't yet. Here's the question. I noticed recently that about mid way back under the pass side there is a black spot developing on the concrete where she parks every day. The vehicle does not sit and idle there. Its started and is moving in about 20 every time. I have not got under there yet but was looking for possible answers as to what and where to look? Flex pipe? Bad seal on exhaust? If this is the case should a 31K mile vehicle have this issue? The vehicle is louder than a 2.3L should be but from reading that seems normal. If it is the flex is this something that a novice wrench can do?
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My ford escape tailgate switch stopped working, the glass worked fine and opened with the switch. I ruled out the fuse as both I believe work off the same fuse. I removed the back panel to access the mechanism and found that, I could get the tailgate to work if I disconnected the wire from the glass tailgate switch and as the wire connector (shown In picture) was reinserted it would energize the tailgate switch and I am able to open the tailgate. What the actual problem is. I initially thought that it could be the tailgate switch itself but having seen what is happening I really am at a loss to what is the problem....
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So I have a 2008 escape 4wd.... I am getting a few flat spots on the inside passenger rear tire... So I figured it was the shocks so I unbolted both and cycled them and they both felt the same... There was dampening you can feel the oil going through the valves or whatever... I have felt completely bad shocks before and it was just a smooth motion when cycling the shocks... Can it still feel like there good but there not? The thing has 85k on it and I'm not sure if they have ever been replaced before..
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape XLS (4 cylinder) that currently is having an issue with the AC system. It blows the air at the correct temp but it only comes out of the primary vents. If i select defroster or floor vents, it doesn't switch over to those. What specifically should I be looking at to fix it.
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Where can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
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I have a 2008 xlt with a 3.0. In the little over 2 years I've had it, most notably in the past year, I have replaced the front driver side ABS sensor 8 times. This is getting extremely cost, and outrageous. Every month or so, the ABS light comes on and the ABS starts locking up when I am driving it. Every time it does it, I have to take it back to the shop for diagnostics, at a rate of nearly 300 a pop. As you can see, the bill for this one damn sensor has become outrageous.
Every time, the same fault code comes up. Drivers front ABS sensor. Putting on a new sensor fixes it, every time, but only temporarily. I have had the tone ring replaced just to make sure that wasn't it, and every single time it's always been the sensor itself.
I have tried various brands, including a couple of OEM a pop to make sure it wasn't just lower quality parts, and I have the exact same result every time. I have noticed it seems to do it most notably during extremely wet conditions, or heavy snow, although a couple of the times it started acting up in the heat of summer. I have even attempted cleaning the abs sensor to make sure it wasn't just dirty, to no avail.
As I mentioned, only replacing the sensor makes the issue go away, and when I am driving the abs system engages at random times if I leave the light on for too long without fixing the abs light.
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Trouble starting our 2008 escape after she has been sitting for atleast 4-5 hours (or more) We can get it going usually but we have to attempt several times before it 'catches'. After running and turning off, it starts no problem. Have replaced mas and didn't work. No 'check engine soon light' so just trying to narrow down the problem. Have replaced the fuel filter and all the spark plugs. Love my escape but not when it doesn't start!!
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My 2008 Ford Escape is stuck at 5% Oil Life I have tried the reset procedure But when I press the 3 buttons Setup Info or Reset nothing changes It will not change screens When I start my car I see the KM (I'm from Canada) then within a couple of minutes it shows %5 Oil Life and no matter what I do it wont change or scroll to a different screen. When the door is ajar or tail gate open it shows but then will flash back to the 5% Oil Life
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2008 Escape V6
Got the oil changed at Walmart and they told us there was oil in the air filter and we should replace the pcv valve. Before we changed it the oil pressure light had started coming on when the car is stopped, either in gear or park. Once the gas is hit it goes off, even at something like 1 mph. Well I changed the pcv valve but the oil pressure light is still doing the same thing. What should be my next step?
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I just bought a 2008 Mercury Mariner about a month ago. A couple of times the Traction Control light came on from when I started it, until I turned it off (5-30 minutes.) Then it didn't come on for days. What the problem could be??
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My girl has a 2008 Escape 3.0L FWD auto trans. Is it possible to install a transmission cooler? She wants to pull a small trailer/camper.
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Just got a 08 hybrid with torn driver seat. I have to change the seat. Will any driver seat from a 08 escape fit it?
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I am experiencing some strange behavior from my 2008 Ford Escape LTD. At low rpm's, usually when I am going uphill, the engine sounds like a diesel at low throttle and low rpm. It sounds fine at idle, but as soon as I apply light throttle I hear the characteristics rattle of a diesel engine. The engine returns to normal once I get above 30-40 mph or so.
My escape is at 99k miles (bought at 89k) and I'm not sure what maintenance was has bee done on it (sparkplugs, timing belt, etc?). (I do have an OBDII reader)
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